Mounting a scope question

[Rockrivr1]

It's been a LONG time since I've installed a scope into a mount and I don't remember much about what I did. I now have a Leupold Mk4 LR/T scope that I'm about to install it into a LaRue LT-104 mount that will be used on my RRA LAR-8. (RRA's version of the AR-10)

My question is pretty simple. How much should I torque down on the mount screws to keep the 30mm tube stationary? Also, could I torque it to much and damage the tube? Just trying to figure out how much I should tighten the screws down.

Thanks

 

[Rockrivr1]

Wow, 25 reads and no answer. I guess this must be a touchy question. Hummm. Guess I'll have to go on the light side and see if anything moves while shooting.

 

[rep308]

With a $1K scope you may want to consider having a gunsmith mount it. A simple mount and bore sight should run around $25. They will have the proper torque drivers and equipment. Heck you will probably save $25 in .308 ammo just having it bore sighted.

 

[meth0d]

When I installed my Sightron to my Savage via Burris rings, the manuals included with both recommended torque specs in inch-pounds. Do you have the manuals for either of your components? Or possibly check with the manufacturers?

 

[95blklsc]

The scope I just bought specifies recommended torque for all fasteners in in-lbs. Make sure you use a good 1/4" drive torque wrench to set it up. If you are unsure, as said above, have a gunsmith do it. I'm sure wouldn't cost much at all.

 

[economist]

I have that scope / mount combo and while I can't tell you a precise torque setting, I can say that you don't need too much in order to hold it. Use a little blue loctite on the screws. I get everything where I want it front/back and level, then tighten to hold it solid, then back out each screw one at a time, and apply loctite. Go slow and be sure to balance the tension over all screws.

 

[wolf223]

the supplied hex key or "bit driver" key would be hand tightened, but NOT driven home with all your might...... works for me, until i notice it's crooked.

i usually hold off on the lock-tite until after i shoot it once or twice to ensure it's level.... then, as stated, back one screw out at a time and apply the lock-tite to the threads on the screw, one drop should be sufficient......

.... if you have a high-speed tool kit with an actual small tourque wrench, even better... but as stated, i wouldn't use anything larger than 1/4" drive... 3/8" drive MAX if that's all you have. those screws will strip at the heads or threads easily....

 

[Rockrivr1]

Thanks everyone. It's interesting that Leupold says to use the recommendations from the mount to torque down the screws. LaRue's instuctions = Tighten Screws. Hummmm A little vague. Great mount with lacking instructions.

 

[BossHarley]

Email them, they probably have a recommended amount of torque. Be very careful if you are going to use a torque wrench not specificially marketetd to shooters -- you want one in inch lbs not foot lbs.
The material of the mounts is what really matters, much less torque used for aluminum rings than for steel. There are good instructions on the Badger Ord site for their rings.

 

[bullseye]

Ring screws are: Aluminum, 15 in/lbs and steel would be 20 in/lbs

 

[Jayvs]

Best bet would be to contact larue.

Jay

 

[JGreen]

level the gun
then
level the bases
then
level the rings
then
level the scope in the rings
torque as stated.