M&P trigger job

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rwl1955

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I remember some posters talking about a local gunsmith who does trigger jobs on the M&P. I just took advantage of the S&W rebate sale and bought a full size M&P in 40cal.
Can anybody provide me with contact info on this person?
 
There are people on MP-pistol.com forums that have gotten their trigger pulls to under 3 pounds with extensive work (so they say). I know for sure you will need a new sear spring (or complete housing if they are not available to buy alone), new trigger bar and new trigger spring. That will make your pull stock (around 6 pounds). From there a smith can polish and do a bunch of things to make the pull sub-5 pounds. I'm not sure of the specifics.
 
sourcehill said:
There are people on MP-pistol.com forums that have gotten their trigger pulls to under 3 pounds with extensive work (so they say). I know for sure you will need a new sear spring (or complete housing if they are not available to buy alone), new trigger bar and new trigger spring. That will make your pull stock (around 6 pounds). From there a smith can polish and do a bunch of things to make the pull sub-5 pounds. I'm not sure of the specifics.
Click to expand...
*****
I`m not looking for a comp trigger job. Something say around 6lbs. I haven`t even shot the pistol yet.
Four Seasons was quite crowded Saturday when I was there. carl was selling quite a few M&P`s. Good deal with the rebate and 4 mags.
 
Just dropped my M&P off with Greg last Saturday. He had several M&P's on hand for me to try. So I could select what I wanted in a trigger pull. Anywhere from about 3 1/2, 4, 5, 6.
 
Mike told me $125 for a trigger job. From Leominster you can save big money on commuting to the gunsmith and shipping costs by using Mike over anyone else.
 
Mike

LenS said:
Mike told me $125 for a trigger job. From Leominster you can save big money on commuting to the gunsmith and shipping costs by using Mike over anyone else.
Click to expand...
*********
Yup, just got a reply from Mike . That looks like the route I`ll take. I can drive down and drop it off. I`m just waiting for a reply from Mike to see when it would be convenient to drop the gun off. I also asked if he has any night sights.
I`ll have to see if Mitch Rosen has an ARG holster for the M&P.
 
Ninemil said:
I measured my M&P trigger pull last night and my unscientific method shows a whopping 15lb trigger on the thing. Definitely needs some tuning [frown].

Has anyone tried to do this yourself by following these directions? It looks pretty straightforward.

http://www.burwellgunsmithing.com/misc/M&Ptriggerjob.pdf
Click to expand...

Yes. It was my first crack at smithing and it came out really well. Very easy to do. If I recall, there are 3 parts. I did the 1st 2 and replaced the sear housing assembly with a non-MA one, and it came in at a smooth 4.5 lbs. I sold it to someone who had a FS .40 done by Burwell who liked mine better for for a CCW (mine was a 9c).

Make sure you are slow and careful, and have a spare sear handy just in case.
 
It sucks that you buy a brand new gun that has to be worked on out of the box. Its like paying other 20% sales tax.
 
What kind of files/stones do I need to do something like this? Have never ventured into something like this and need someone to point out the right tools (which Burwells PDF doesn't do very well).

Can someone point me it in the right direction? Are they files or stones? Where can I get them online? I have looked through Brownells and Midway but If I bought something I would be totally guessing.


EDIT: looks like I found them:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=799&title=6
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16625&title=ARKANSAS STONE SET

A bit pricey for a set. Half the cost of getting the trigger done by a smith. Any household stones do the job? Knife sharpening stones?

Thanks.
 
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dbhn said:
What kind of files/stones do I need to do something like this? Have never ventured into something like this and need someone to point out the right tools (which Burwells PDF doesn't do very well).

Can someone point me it in the right direction? Are they files or stones? Where can I get them online? I have looked through Brownells and Midway but If I bought something I would be totally guessing.


EDIT: looks like I found them:
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=799&title=6
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16625&title=ARKANSAS STONE SET

A bit pricey for a set. Half the cost of getting the trigger done by a smith. Any household stones do the job? Knife sharpening stones?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

I did mine with some hobby files, fine grit sandpaper and a dremel with a felt polishing wheel w/compound.
 
I did about 1/2 of the trigger job according to Burwell's instructions. Did the over travel cut and the back of sear cut. Need to get some bits for my Dremel to finish up the polishing and do the striker parts. Just doing what I did reduced the trigger weight by about 30-40% according to my memory of what it was like prior (no trigger scale). It would be a ALOT nicer even if I stopped right there.

Not too hard to do. Just need a little vise and some good files/stones. The files/stones I used are not the best options and it still worked out OK. Better equipment would make this a piece of cake.

I will post back when I do the rest.
 
I did my own, but not quite to the 'directions', but rather more to the way my engineering mind thought things would work. I'm at about 4.5 lbs with a nice crisp break.

The key is to take off metal SLOWLY and test a lot. Polishing the parts also helps. This will happen as you use the pistol, but why not just get it done? (^_^)

Its still not 1911 crisp (totally different design.) but its not bad.
 
Did some more of the trigger work last night. Coming out nice.

BUT, I cannot get the rear sight to move to get at the firing block. Arrrrrgggg..

Any suggestions on how to remove this? I got it to move about a MM but no more. Now it is out of line and I can't get it off or back in place.

Maybe it is time for a smith and some night sites???
 
dbhn said:
Did some more of the trigger work last night. Coming out nice.

BUT, I cannot get the rear sight to move to get at the firing block. Arrrrrgggg..

Any suggestions on how to remove this? I got it to move about a MM but no more. Now it is out of line and I can't get it off or back in place.

Maybe it is time for a smith and some night sites???
Click to expand...

That's strange- these were the easiest sights I've ever moved. Once you losen the hex screw mine was fairly easy. You did losen the hex screw right? If you did I wonder if the small round plate got wedged in with the sight when coming off.
 
kendall-op said:
It sucks that you buy a brand new gun that has to be worked on out of the box. Its like paying other 20% sales tax.
Click to expand...

You don't have to have it worked on. The M&P functions just fine with a 10-15lb trigger, in reality when the adrenaline is flowing in a combat situation, you probably wouldn't know the difference...naturally, I see your point: control, shot groups etc. are going to be affected. I don't like heavy trigger pulls either, and neither do any serious or dedicated shooters that I know do, but the idea of having custom work done on a brand new firearm just to have it meet normal shooting perameters is hardly new, especially with Smith and Wessons, at least those made in the last three or four decades...and other brands too.

Tom Reilly, unwittingly created more aftermarket work for gunsmiths...which is about the only good (from the perspective of the 'smith) to come out of those asnine consumer protection regulations.

One opinion: I can fully understand having a very light trigger pull for competition, but truthfully I wouldn't want to go under 4-5 lbs for carry on the street.

Mark L.
 
Lugnut said:
That's strange- these were the easiest sights I've ever moved. Once you losen the hex screw mine was fairly easy. You did losen the hex screw right? If you did I wonder if the small round plate got wedged in with the sight when coming off.
Click to expand...

I actually took the hex screw right out and banged the hell out of the site with wooden dowels (and then a brass bolt) with a full size hammer. The thing is not budging.

The site has never been off or moved (by me) prior to this attempt. So I don't see how the plate could get wedged. But that is certainly possible.

Looks like the only way I am getting it off is with one of those sight adjustment tools. I really want it off because I think polishing the firing pin block will make a huge difference.
 
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dbhn said:
I actually took the hex screw right out and banged the hell out of the site with wooden dowels (and then a brass bolt) with a full size hammer. The thing is not budging.

The site has never been off or moved (by me) prior to this attempt. So I don't see how the plate could get wedged. But that is certainly possible.

Looks like the only way I am getting it off is with one of those sight adjustment tools. I really want it off because I think polishing the firing pin block will make a huge difference.
Click to expand...

The tiny round metal plate is pushed up from the plunger spring. On one of mine- the thin plate got a little "snagged" under the sight and slide... not enough to cause that much of a problem at all coming off though. Maybe they just have some really tight tolerances now.
 
mark056 said:
You don't have to have it worked on. The M&P functions just fine with a 10-15lb trigger, in reality when the adrenaline is flowing in a combat situation, you probably wouldn't know the difference...naturally, I see your point: control, shot groups etc. are going to be affected. I don't like heavy trigger pulls either, and neither do any serious or dedicated shooters that I know do, but the idea of having custom work done on a brand new firearm just to have it meet normal shooting perameters is hardly new, especially with Smith and Wessons, at least those made in the last three or four decades...and other brands too.

Tom Reilly, unwittingly created more aftermarket work for gunsmiths...which is about the only good (from the perspective of the 'smith) to come out of those asnine consumer protection regulations.

One opinion: I can fully understand having a very light trigger pull for competition, but truthfully I wouldn't want to go under 4-5 lbs for carry on the street.

Mark L.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know this has been beat to death in many threads.. however simply removing the MA parts and replacing them with STD parts will get you a decent trigger. With a little REALLY basic polishing you can get a real nice trigger I personally don't care for triggers over 10lbs on a semi and the MA M&Ps particularly suck. I wish people would just realize that you don't need a "trigger job" to make it a great gun... installing standard parts puts the M&P pricing just at about $600 which is a great deal for what you end up with. If you want a GOOD gun for $450 forget it... they don't exist.
 
Lugnut said:
If you want a GOOD gun for $450 forget it... they don't exist.
Click to expand...

+1 Probably the only way to get a GOOD gun for $450.00 is to buy a used one from the Golden Age of American Gun Manufacturing which probably ended aout the time the Bangor Punta Corporation acquired S&W circa 1964. I do think it is possible to buy a DECENT gun in the $350.00 - $450.00 price range, new however. I suppose, to a degree the terms we are using GOOD and DECENT are subjective. The odds get better too, of buying something quite nice in the $450.00 range outside of Mass, because there is a much wider selection of new guns to purchase,

Then there are the factory flukes. Back in the early '90's I bought a band new FM Hi-Power which is a Argentinean licensed copy of the famous FN-Browning Pistol. Now Hi-Powers because of their design, generally do not have really great trigger pulls. This partiular one has a trigger pull that rivals that of what you would get from Wayne Novak or Cylindar & Slide, two well known Hi-Power custom shops, right out of the box. Go figure..

Mark L.
 
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