M&P Runs Itself Dry?

Anyone else have this problem? I use either M-7 Pro or Hoppe's gun oil, and after a couple hundred rounds in my M&P 40 it's almost all gone. I oil all the contact points on the frame as well as a light coat on the barrel, and I always have the same problem.

Was thinking about going grease, specifically Amazon.com: Slip 2000 Extreme Weapons Grease Syringe: Sports & Outdoors Anyone else use this or something similar in a semi-auto? Results?


Don't waste your money on expensive gun oils. Synthetic motor oil (20w50) works just as well for a fraction of the cost.
 
I soaked my 1911 in mil-tec, then shot it to temp and wiped it dry, same as I did with my 249 and m9 in Iraq, never had a single problem with any of them.

YMMV, since everyone else seems to hate the stuff.
 
Who cares if its dry? It's an M&P. Clean and lube it again when you're done shooting. Use Mobil 1 (like what Gammon is talking about) if you have nothing else around.

Grease on a striker fired pistol? Seriously? [rofl]

-Mike
 
Who cares if its dry? It's an M&P. Clean and lube it again when you're done shooting. Use Mobil 1 (like what Gammon is talking about) if you have nothing else around.

Grease on a striker fired pistol? Seriously? [rofl]

-Mike

Why not? If you'd grease the rails on a hammer fired pistol, why not a striker fired pistol? This is a serious question.
 
Why not? If you'd grease the rails on a hammer fired pistol, why not a striker fired pistol? This is a serious question.

Because there isn't exactly a lot of surface area for the grease to provide additional protection over oil. Most striker fired handguns have like 4 little tabs that hold the slide on. I just think it's a pointless exercise for something like a Glock, M&P, etc. These guns aren't like Sigs, CZs, 1911s, where all of those actually have spots for the grease to sit on both sides of the wear points.

Then again even on those kinds of guns I typically just use oil. Grease is just too much of a pain for not much real benefit. The only handgun I -liked- using it on was the Sig X5 I had, if anything, because that gun was fitted really tight. I also used to use it on the M1 Garand I had several years ago.

-Mike
 
Because there isn't exactly a lot of surface area for the grease to provide additional protection over oil. Most striker fired handguns have like 4 little tabs that hold the slide on. I just think it's a pointless exercise for something like a Glock, M&P, etc. These guns aren't like Sigs, CZs, 1911s, where all of those actually have spots for the grease to sit on both sides of the wear points.

Then again even on those kinds of guns I typically just use oil. Grease is just too much of a pain for not much real benefit. The only handgun I -liked- using it on was the Sig X5 I had, if anything, because that gun was fitted really tight. I also used to use it on the M1 Garand I had several years ago.

-Mike

Exactly.
 
Because there isn't exactly a lot of surface area for the grease to provide additional protection over oil. Most striker fired handguns have like 4 little tabs that hold the slide on. I just think it's a pointless exercise for something like a Glock, M&P, etc. These guns aren't like Sigs, CZs, 1911s, where all of those actually have spots for the grease to sit on both sides of the wear points.

Then again even on those kinds of guns I typically just use oil. Grease is just too much of a pain for not much real benefit. The only handgun I -liked- using it on was the Sig X5 I had, if anything, because that gun was fitted really tight. I also used to use it on the M1 Garand I had several years ago.

-Mike

This is true for the Glock, but not the M&P. The Glocks do have rather small tabs that the slide rides on and probably account for this pistols reliability in nasty conditions. Oddly, my new Glock 24L came with a grease like lube on the slide that was a dead ringer for "Copper Coat" anti seize compound.

The M&P has a much more substantial rail system that resembles the rails on a conventional steel framed pistol. This may account for the M&Ps excellent accuracy.
 
Because there isn't exactly a lot of surface area for the grease to provide additional protection over oil. Most striker fired handguns have like 4 little tabs that hold the slide on. I just think it's a pointless exercise for something like a Glock, M&P, etc. These guns aren't like Sigs, CZs, 1911s, where all of those actually have spots for the grease to sit on both sides of the wear points.

Then again even on those kinds of guns I typically just use oil. Grease is just too much of a pain for not much real benefit. The only handgun I -liked- using it on was the Sig X5 I had, if anything, because that gun was fitted really tight. I also used to use it on the M1 Garand I had several years ago.

-Mike

I use grease on mine after cleaning... but the cleanings are very rare.
 
This may account for the M&Ps excellent accuracy.

The full size M&P9 is infamous for accuracy problems - sloppy lockup, less than ideal twist rate for 9mm etc. Supposedly the newer guns are shipping with improved barrels - mine is from 12/12 but I haven't had a chance to shoot it.
 
This. I use the Eddie Coyle 50/50 mix of mobil1 oil and mobil1 ATF. Runs greatand I clean it ever 500 -1000 rounds whether it needs it or not.

Same. I will never go through the whole half gallon I mixed up for the price of a little tiny bottle of gun lube. Unless I keep giving it away in 8oz bottles to friends.
 
For grins I greased up a couple guns last night with white petroleum grease. I haven't shot them, but here are my slide-racking findings...

92FS - Wowzas. Smooth as silk.
SR9c - Meh. Mostly made a mess. I'll just stick with oil.
1911 - Meh+. Messy with little noticeable improvement.
 
If it rolls, oil; if it slides, grease. A drop of gun grease on a rail contact point is not going to hurt your gun, no matter what the trigger mechanism is. Just don't use too much, that's when the problem begin.
 
The full size M&P9 is infamous for accuracy problems - sloppy lockup, less than ideal twist rate for 9mm etc. Supposedly the newer guns are shipping with improved barrels - mine is from 12/12 but I haven't had a chance to shoot it.

The only M&Ps I have tested were the 45 and the Pro. Both were excellent.
 
Two words - Frog Lube. I started using this on all of my firearms, including my two M&P 9's. Friggen stuff is FANTASTIC.

After 5 treatments I don't even bother to lube them anymore, not to mention cleanup involves a light wipe down and no more scrubbing - even on the AR. The only reason I use picks still is just to get into the crevasses, not to pick the carbon out. As cheesy as it sounds >insert Billy Mays here< It's like Teflon in a can! Carbon just doesn't stick at all, even inside the AR bolt carrier.

I'm dumping ALL of my petroleum based lubricants & bore cleaners after six months of use with Frog Lube. Now if I only had a buyer for all this Mi-Pro stuff I stocked up on...

FYI, I usually shoot about 100-150 rounds of 9mm each month, so they have gotten some decent usage with Frog Lube. No jams, no misfeeds, not one issue at all. I think they actually run better now that they are self lubricating (the stuff bleeds out of the metal once it gets around 100 F warm).

The only "downside (word used very loosely) is your firearms smell a little spearminty, but that's small price to pay given the benefits.

Save some dough and dump the solvents/cleaners/shtuff. This stuff really DOES work as advertised. I applied 5 treatments to 6 different firearms and I still have half of a 4oz jar. I may even use it on my folding knives too.
 
Last edited:
I tend to shoot 300 to 400 rounds per session in decent weather and average at least 20,000 rounds per year. Cheap-o synthetic oil is all I use.
 
Has anyone ever tried Marvel Mystery Oil on there guns, I love the stuff on my machines for lube & rust protection.

Tim

I was just searching for this myself. I just picked up Wilson's Ultima Lube Oil and it smells pretty much like Marvels. I'm thinking its probably pretty similar but mixed with something else. Anyone know?
 
Ewl is great, but I've been using seal 1 and stays put, stays wet, Eco friendly for your skin
 
Back
Top Bottom