M&P Mistake at the range today.

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I screwed up at the range today. No, no rules broken or accidents, just an error on my part, selecting firearms to shoot. I started off shooting my S&W 1911PD which, after probably 1000 rounds through it is broken in great and has an incredibly crisp break on the trigger. I shoot it better than any other pistol I own. Problem is, when I ran out of .45 reloads, I pulled out my S&W M&P40. Now, I like the M&P and it feels great in my hands, but after shooting the single action 1911, the crappy MA trigger of the M&P felt like sh!t. One inch .45 groups became four inch + .40 groups. Has anyone else ever had this problem, and should I have shot the M&P first? How do you guys deal with the differing triggers on your various firearms? I was PO'd and was thinking of putting up the M&P for trade after my poor shooting today. Will a trigger job make that big a difference on the M&P? Can I get the non-MA parts or am I better off sending it to Burwell? Thanks for the therapy session...
 
You can't fix those groups, they are expected. A 1911 is a high end pistol, tight and finicky. The M&P and the GLOCK are loose plastic pistols that can take a beating, but they sacrifice accuracy. It really isn't worth trying to invest a ton of money to tighten up those groups, after you put in a match barrel, tighter parts, better trigger, you may as well have bought a 1911, plus the thing may start jamming or only liking certain ammo.

I love my G17 (and new G23) but I don't expect them tot keep up with my 1911. The triggers are very decent. That said, GLOCKS have drop-in parts that reduce trigger from 5.5 to 3.5, which helps a lot. Not sure about M&P, you can probably have someone do a trigger job on it, but it may cost some.
 
I can't speak from much experience, I carry a Glock 23. Don't get me wrong, I like it and all. It shoots good, hits where I aim it, doesn't give me any problems in rapid fire, its just that carrying with a round in the chamber worries me and thats why I don't do it.
I've practiced drawing and chambering/firing and have gotten good at it, but that doesn't always work in a situation where a one handed draw/fire may be needed.
After checking out Dennis' (Pilgrim's) 1911 carry gun, I noticed the weight is roughly the same and the option for carrying with a round chambered via 1911 safety features is a better option. Plus even though in a defense situation to me adrenaline would take over and trigger pull weight is out the window, the trigger was better than my Glock.
Oddly enough when comparing 2 of his guns, a 1911 lightweight gun and an Ithaca 1911, I found the Ithaca easier and more comfortable to shoot. Maybe I'm, just meant to carry a milsurp. [laugh] Either way I think in the spring I'll be looking for a 1911 style carry piece.
 
You really can't compare a 1911 trigger to an M&P trigger or Glock either and the actions are totally different. They'll never be the same.
I think if you take the advice of having a trigger job done on the M&P or at least lightening it yourself, your groups will close up.
 
I screwed up at the range today. No, no rules broken or accidents, just an error on my part, selecting firearms to shoot. I started off shooting my S&W 1911PD which, after probably 1000 rounds through it is broken in great and has an incredibly crisp break on the trigger. I shoot it better than any other pistol I own. Problem is, when I ran out of .45 reloads, I pulled out my S&W M&P40. Now, I like the M&P and it feels great in my hands, but after shooting the single action 1911, the crappy MA trigger of the M&P felt like sh!t. One inch .45 groups became four inch + .40 groups. Has anyone else ever had this problem, and should I have shot the M&P first? How do you guys deal with the differing triggers on your various firearms? I was PO'd and was thinking of putting up the M&P for trade after my poor shooting today. Will a trigger job make that big a difference on the M&P? Can I get the non-MA parts or am I better off sending it to Burwell? Thanks for the therapy session...

I did the trigger job myself and like my M&P even more now. I have no prior experience with gun smithing, and my M&P is my first handgun. So, If I can get a positive result without screwing it up, I think anyone can. [smile]

Go to the M&P pistol forums and you can find a thread that points to Burwell's page that describes in great details what to do. I did the 1st 2 steps of his procedure, just modifying the sear only, and polishing things with a felt dremmel tip.

http://mp-pistol.com/boards/viewtopic.php?t=110

I did it not realizing that the MA sear housing assembly has a heavier spring, but I can definitely feel an improvement. I have a new housing on order and will swap in my modified sear once I get it.
 
My personal opinion on the current crop of high tech handguns,
especially those with plastic frames, is that they are designed
to be overly safe (lawyer proof), highly reliable, close range personal defense weapons - BULLET LAUNCHERS, if you please. And for the most part, they perform their intended functions magnificently.

Small targets at a distance were never a design consideration, so
anyone who buys one to shoot at bullseyes is in for a big
disappointment.

Want speed, power and ACCURACY? Get a 1911 clone or a
S&W medium frame relvolver! Then practice, practice, practice!

MAJOR D
 
Some of it is trigger control/technique, but a lot of it is, that at
least trigger wise, a 1911 lends itself to being shot accurately with
less effort, due to the lack of trigger travel and weight (usually 5 lbs
or less) as well as a fast, short reset. It's hard to replicate
that in anything else that isn't a 1911. I do agree with the others,
though, that getting a trigger job done will vastly improve the M+P....
the MA trigger is basically atrocious and unuseable.

-Mike
 
Yeah the M&P trigger sucks big time. Apparently there are two versions; 10 and 12 pounds. Mine came with a 12-pound trigger. I have already lightened it (it's down to about 10 pounds) but it still sucks. [frown] It definitely needs more work.
 
God... first fix the M&P trigger and make it normal. You can get the pull easily comparable to the 1911- 4- 4.5lbs no problem. Of course it won't be as crisp.

That being said M&Ps and Glocks ARE very accurate out to 50ft +. Not much difference out of the box that's for sure at those distances. Sure they are more difficult to shoot because they are a TON lighter and have slightly shorter sight radius, etc.

That being said a good 1911 is sweetness.
 
Using free state parts and a little work on the trigger, I've got my M&P down to 4 lbs, with a pretty crisp trigger. Not 1911 standards, but a WHOLE hell of a lot better than 'stock'. Basically, the only tools I needed were roll pin punches, a file, and an Omaha stone.
 
You can but the parts from Brownells for about $25, this will bring the trigger down to the original 6.5lb that the rest of the country can have. The part is currently out of stock but they do expect some in soon.

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/sc...mid=859&m=15&mn=Smith+&model=M&P+(Semi-Auto)+

(part no 25 standard)

I had a "Free State" M&P with the standard 6.5lb trigger, and I still was very unhappy with it. However, I've heard very positive things about the gun after the Burwell trigger job. You'll may want to have him remove the mag disconnect as well.

You can't fix those groups, they are expected. A 1911 is a high end pistol, tight and finicky. The M&P and the GLOCK are loose plastic pistols that can take a beating, but they sacrifice accuracy. It really isn't worth trying to invest a ton of money to tighten up those groups, after you put in a match barrel, tighter parts, better trigger, you may as well have bought a 1911, plus the thing may start jamming or only liking certain ammo.

I love my G17 (and new G23) but I don't expect them tot keep up with my 1911. The triggers are very decent. That said, GLOCKS have drop-in parts that reduce trigger from 5.5 to 3.5, which helps a lot. Not sure about M&P, you can probably have someone do a trigger job on it, but it may cost some.

I have a Springfield XD with no modifications that shoots as well, if not better than my 1911s. I wouldn't think you should expect such a difference from a 1911 to an M&P. Try having someone else shoot it, and see how they do compared to you. If it's still shooting poorly, you pay want to send it back to Smith & see if they can do anything for you.
 
I have a full size 9mm with a Burwell trigger job. I think it is a close as you will ever get to a quality 1911. Trigger pull is down to about 4lbs, the break is crisp, almost zero over travel, and the reset is about 1/16th off the back. This gun will shoot sub 1" groups, although not in my hand, but I have seen it done by better shooters, with my gun. All in all, a great pistol! If you do get one worked on, make sure you also remove the magazine disconnect, those things are nothing but a PITA.

Anyone who wants to check it out (shoot it) is more than welcome.
 
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I had a similar experience.

My first gun was a G23 and it was great. 3.5# connecter etc etc.
Then bought a G30 and G36.
However, when I bought a 5" S&W 1911 on a whim, I fell in love with the thing.
Now firing any of the Glocks, though still "fun" is just not the same.
 
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