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LR-308 Build Thread

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I've decided to recycle this thread to become my LR 308 Build thread. It was originally, a what barrel should I get thread - but that's now been settled.

Below is my current parts lists, price paid, vendor and date of purchase. It's been an on-going project. Totaling just over $2,200.. it definitely grew to way more than I wanted to spend - but I guess that's life. I also for the life of me, cannot remember where I bought my DPMS 308 LPK.

The only modifications I would make is the rail setup. I want to go to a Fortis Switch - but the dang TRX won't sell. I've got it listed more or less at cost (or possibly a loss) and it still won't move. So at this point I'm going to use the TRX until I get sick of it. Nervous about the 762 Industries BCG being a waste and I'm not interested in getting the bolt machined. Also not really fond of having to polish the carrier to get rid of any zippyness on the carrier and protect the upper. The last thing I'd like to buy for this is quality glass/mount. I really love the American Defense QD mount - it's solid on my 556 AR, and will temporarily be used on this build. Mount selection will be pending until I find the glass I want to buy.

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Original thread/post
Ok am I an idiot? I'm really itching to buy a Match grade (Not a UltraMatch grade) Rainier Arms 18" Stainless barrel for $315 and change.. But then it hit me - are there better barrels for the money? Am I wasting money on a barrel that for only $50 more I can get a far superior barrel? If I get said far superior barrel - should I be only shooting match grade or hand loads? I'm by no means a precision shooter, but I'd like to buy a barrel that I know is capable of such.

Sure I'll be slinging the cheaper brass cased 308/762 through this when I'm looking to burn through some money at the range - but does that lead to - then why the hell are you buying a Match grade barrel?

As it stands my QD Lower and Upper are just looking for a barrel, gas tube/block and a muzzle brake. Everything else is good to go. So before I impulse buy and bite the bullet on the Rainier Barrel - I figured I'd ping the community and hope they don't make fun of me too much because I want high speed low drag. What can I say, I want to have the option of precision, accuracy and reliability - even though I may not care if it's there all the time.

With that said, I know there is the Rainier Select, Mega Arms, Fulton Armory, DPMS barrels. What am I missing? What should I be looking at? School me NES (nicely [laugh])
 
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Ok am I an idiot? I'm really itching to buy a Match grade (Not a UltraMatch grade) Rainier Arms 18" Stainless barrel for $315 and change.. But then it hit me - are there better barrels for the money? Am I wasting money on a barrel that for only $50 more I can get a far superior barrel? If I get said far superior barrel - should I be only shooting match grade or hand loads? I'm be no means a precision shooter, but I'd like to buy a barrel that I know is capable of such.

Sure I'll be slinging the cheaper brass cased 308/762 through this when I'm looking to burn through some money at the range - but does that lead to - then why the hell are you buying a Match grade barrel?

As it stands my QD Lower and Upper are just looking for a barrel, gas tube/block and a muzzle brake. Everything else is good to go. So before I impulse buy and bite the bullet on the Rainier Barrel - I figured I'd ping the community and hope they don't make fun of me too much because I want high speed low drag. What can I say, I want to have the option of precision, accuracy and reliability - even though I may not care if it's there all the time.

With the said, I know there is the Rainier Select, Mega Arms, Fulton Armory, DPMS barrels. What am I missing? What should I be looking at? School me NES (nicely [laugh])


Just for perspective, a Krieger AR-10 barrel (DPMS pattern,) chambered, assembled, and ready to mount, will run you about $700 bucks.
 
I looked deeply into this and decided to go with Paul Craddock. He knows his stuff, answers his phone and can do whatever you want to the barrel. His standard barrel (1-10 SS) would be $285 and roughly 4-6 weeks out. This is not chrome lined (dont want it) and not fluted. Add about a buck for options.

Call me if you need more info.
 
We are setting up a semi-custom barrel service which may suit your needs. We're designing a website based selection process but it isn't finished yet. However, I would be more than happy to walk you through the selection process to get one started. Before I opened Neponset Valley Gunsmiths, I was a prototype engineer and machinist for a large barrel manufacturer and Looking at what you're buying, I am certain I can produce a barrel that will exceed your expectations.
 
Ok am I an idiot? I'm really itching to buy a Match grade (Not a UltraMatch grade) Rainier Arms 18" Stainless barrel for $315 and change.. But then it hit me - are there better barrels for the money? Am I wasting money on a barrel that for only $50 more I can get a far superior barrel? If I get said far superior barrel - should I be only shooting match grade or hand loads? I'm by no means a precision shooter, but I'd like to buy a barrel that I know is capable of such.

Sure I'll be slinging the cheaper brass cased 308/762 through this when I'm looking to burn through some money at the range - but does that lead to - then why the hell are you buying a Match grade barrel?

As it stands my QD Lower and Upper are just looking for a barrel, gas tube/block and a muzzle brake. Everything else is good to go. So before I impulse buy and bite the bullet on the Rainier Barrel - I figured I'd ping the community and hope they don't make fun of me too much because I want high speed low drag. What can I say, I want to have the option of precision, accuracy and reliability - even though I may not care if it's there all the time.

With that said, I know there is the Rainier Select, Mega Arms, Fulton Armory, DPMS barrels. What am I missing? What should I be looking at? School me NES (nicely [laugh])

I have a Rainer select barrel. I haven't had any issue with it, although I have not shot it for accuracy. I believe they have a sub 1moa guarantee. The first barrel they sent me was a mess, But they were quick to fix that problem
 
With that said, I know there is the Rainier Select, Mega Arms, Fulton Armory, DPMS barrels. What am I missing? What should I be looking at? School me NES (nicely [laugh])

Of these, I would lean toward the Mega barrels. They have gotten consistently good reviews (better from what I've read than Rainier select), though I cannot speak to them myself.

I have had decent luck with a Brownell's 308 barrel and the price was right for what I wanted (here http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...69784.aspx?avs|Cartridge_1=CTT_308 Winchester).
 
AR-308 Barrel - what should I look at?

Couldn't go wrong.. Rainier Arms 18" SS Match for $239... I did look at the Megas long and hard, but for the price I'll give Rainier a try. Now I need headspace gauges so I can see if this 7.62 Industries POS BCG is any good. Walmart carry any 308 Match? Need to be sure this barrel is spot on ;)
 
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Hopefully yours headspaces, mine didn't and had to get a replacement bolt from them before they went under.

I'm fully expecting that to happen. If it does I'm going to scrap the whole Bcg and write it off (in my head). Then look for another solution. JP or DPMS. Unless I can find a "store brand" one that's got decent reviews.

Priced out what my build has cost so far. Oooof.. I should've bought 3 Garands instead. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bump - updated the first post. Since I rather quickly decided to go w/ the Rainier Arms Match 18" SS barrel; I also decided it's time to start a build thread. Just going to reuse this thread ;)

Anyone have thoughts on using bimetal jacketed ammo in a match barrel? Is there any non-bimetal 308/762 that ISN'T match grade? I'm assuming match grade ammo is a 100% copper jacket.

http://www.uspsa.org/front-sight-magazine-article.php?Should-I-Buy-BiMetal-Ammo-8 and http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
Has got me nervous and I was reading about XM80C and how it's actually bimetal. I was then going to go with PMC Bronze, but that too seems to be bimetal, as is WWB. Last thing I want to do is start ruining my barrel after the first round.

I also see Remington Premier 308 Winchester Ammo 150 Grain Core-Lokt Ultra Bonded. Says it's Ultra Bonded PSP. Not sure what that means.

Thoughts? Suggestions? There's also the argument that in $ saved on buying bimetal rounds, I could replace said match barrel when it's shot out with another one. Oh the decisions..
 
You thinking too much and way ahead. Build your rifle and go shoot it first. The POS 762 BCG might not headspace correctly or might only last a few rds (just enough to sight in your scope). [wink]
 
I don't think I'm over thinking the ammo situation. Last thing I want to do is take a match barrel, and ruin the rifling by saving .30 cents a shot. Spend all this money to just shoot something that'll ruin my weapon?

It's like putting 87 Octane in a Ferrari, it might work for a little bit - but in the end, you're doing more harm than good.
 
Bump - updated the first post. Since I rather quickly decided to go w/ the Rainier Arms Match 18" SS barrel; I also decided it's time to start a build thread. Just going to reuse this thread ;)

Anyone have thoughts on using bimetal jacketed ammo in a match barrel? Is there any non-bimetal 308/762 that ISN'T match grade? I'm assuming match grade ammo is a 100% copper jacket.

http://www.uspsa.org/front-sight-magazine-article.php?Should-I-Buy-BiMetal-Ammo-8 and http://www.luckygunner.com/labs/brass-vs-steel-cased-ammo/
Has got me nervous and I was reading about XM80C and how it's actually bimetal. I was then going to go with PMC Bronze, but that too seems to be bimetal, as is WWB. Last thing I want to do is start ruining my barrel after the first round.

I also see Remington Premier 308 Winchester Ammo 150 Grain Core-Lokt Ultra Bonded. Says it's Ultra Bonded PSP. Not sure what that means.

Thoughts? Suggestions? There's also the argument that in $ saved on buying bimetal rounds, I could replace said match barrel when it's shot out with another one. Oh the decisions..

Federal American Eagle 150 FMJ is not bimetal. American Eagle 168 Hollow Point ammo shoots very well, yet is much less costly than Gold Medal Match.
 
Brown Santa showed up today. The Field gage got back ordered.. which kind of sucks, because if my bolt closes on a no-go, it still might be GTG. Field gage would confirm if it's GTG or danger hot. Also picked up a Rainier mag release button for $16 shipped.

Also did some light grinding to the inside of the upper so that the bolt catch would fully engage the BCG. Both the DPMS and Phase 5 Tactical would barely, if at all.. grab the BCG. After seeing the marks on the upper (and the release) I decided to take the Dremel and a grinding stone to the upper, rather than the release. I've seen that the release tends to break over time/use - and rather than having to custom fab a release every time, I want my upper to be able to take any release.

Next steps: My Rainier order should arrive tomorrow or picked up on Saturday. Get the bolt/barrel head spaced. Track down my locktite. Torque stuff. Put my barrel on the upper and headspace again. Get everything buttoned up.

I have some Fiocchi 308 showing up; 150grn FMJ that I plan to help zero the rifle and break it in. And then Fiocchi Exacta 168grn Sierra MatchKing Hollow Point to see if I'm Sub-MOA like Rainier advertises. I should probably try to source some cheap 175/180 grain since the barrel is 18" 1:10, but oh well, I can only spend so much money.

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Missed FedEx - doubt it'll go to the FedEx Office for pickup tonight - so it looks like I won't get my package until tomorrow sometime.. Hopefully morning - then I can check headspace and continue the build. Got my Fiocchi 308. Not a bimetal jacket, perfect :)
 
Welp - I've become another 7.62 Industries BCG victim. My bolt doesn't close on a go gage or a round.

ETA: So after cycling the bolt several times, rounds will chamber and the bolt will go into full battery. I'm checking from the underside of the upper. Go gage closes a little bit, but not full battery. Could this just be a break in issue? Cycle some rounds through and it may be good to go?

Thoughts? Shoot it with the 308 that's going into battery?

ETA2: Noticed that some rounds weren't going into battery. Don't have a caliper - but I can visually see the bullet isn't seated into the casing as far. So on my "yep this one looks like it'll go full battery" test - i've been spot on. Anything where I see the ridges on the bullet - I know won't chamber properly. So far so good. So I'm thinking the tolerances are so close, that it's failing on the Go, but rounds are chambering fine.

No issue with not closing on a go gage but closing on a round, no?
 
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k - so I retract my previous statement of judging a successful chambering of a round based on the bullet, since headspace is measuring from the bolt face to the datum line of the case.

Now the real questions still remains, closes on a round but not full battery on a go gage. Safe?
 
k - so I retract my previous statement of judging a successful chambering of a round based on the bullet, since headspace is measuring from the bolt face to the datum line of the case.

Now the real questions still remains, closes on a round but not full battery on a go gage. Safe?
I have the same BCG, and had pretty much the same problem. What I did was just close it on the round a bunch of times to try and loosen it up a bit and it seemed to get easier after a while. Took it to the range and put like 20 rounds through it and it was perfectly fine. I probably have about 250-300 rounds through it now, and the only issue is the NiB coating is flaking off on the bolt, but still functions flawlessly. I can close it on a go gauge now as well.
 
I have the same BCG, and had pretty much the same problem. What I did was just close it on the round a bunch of times to try and loosen it up a bit and it seemed to get easier after a while. Took it to the range and put like 20 rounds through it and it was perfectly fine. I probably have about 250-300 rounds through it now, and the only issue is the NiB coating is flaking off on the bolt, but still functions flawlessly. I can close it on a go gauge now as well.

Good to know. Bunch of the guys on ARFCOM and Calguns do the same thing w/ 556 setups. So I was moving on and deciding to do what you did. Going to the range in a few.
 
Well it went boom today. Didn't blow up in my face :)
For a sanity check, I made sure the first 5 rounds were in 100% battery.
Did the same for the first 3 rounds of the match grade 308.

I didn't realize how high up the 9" bipod would be, so my shots were all shakey. A 5 round group had 2 shots away from the sub-MOA group, I contribute my shakiness and nerves (fearful of an exploding weapon) for the poor shooting. Either I get an accu-shot monopod, a different bipod or a large rear shooting bag. I suppose I can flip the bipod up and shoot on top of a bag.

Still waiting on the grip and time to start shopping for glass. Had a couple of FTE, which then cause the bullet of the following round to become damaged, to the point where I wouldn't chamber it (bullet was seated crooked). A couple of stove pipes and the brass getting mashed. I have some 60 FPS video from my GoPro - I'll see if I can slow it down to see why.

Need another range trip where I can actually relax and take some good 100 yard shots. Won't be for many weekends though - perhaps October? yikes.
 
I didn't want to bust into a new thread that directly relates so I'll dump this relative info here.

The barrel I mentioned previously in the thread I finally committed to and ordered. It was nothing but a pleasure dealing with Paul Craddock, sorry Ben, I don't think he turns PSL blanks...
Shameless plug for Craddock Precision - http://www.craddockprecision.com/

I'll update this post with some pics when I get the chance but here are the specs.
* stainless match grade blank, 1-10 twist, 20"
* 12 Flutes under handguard, 10 from GB to muzzle
* .920 under the handguard to .850 at the GB - this is the biggest pain because there are limited GB that are made in the finish I want at this size
* Bead blasted.

I sent Paul a check to get things going, he didn't say he needed it, pay him when it's done. He turned it, shipped it and had it to me in less than a month. I just got it and haven't sent the final payment, honorable and trustworthy type of guy. There are some minor tooling marks in the fluting but It doesn't bother me. This was one of the first barrel that he fluted in house on his new machine, this cuts some time and cost from shipping it to an external site to take care of this. All this for a match grade barrel turned and cut how I wanted it for just over $400.
 
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