jhv41 G.98/40

[majspud]

Did a trade with a friend. My M42 Springfield and 105 rounds of 1942 8x56 ammo for his jhv41 and a player to be named later.

I'm working the rounds of substitute standard K98s for my German collection - those foreign rifles in 8mm taken into German service during WW2 - now that I have the 10 German makers of the K98. I now have the G.24 - VZ24, G.29/40 - Polish M29 carbine, and now the G.98/40 - the Hungarian successor (German modified from the Femaru FEG35) to the M95 Steyr. Those who have one can see the similarity of the bolt and safety. Unlike a Mauser action and the original straight pull M95 Steyrs, the G.98/40's are cock-on opening, not close.

Somewhat of a rare piece, this one is a bolt and floor-plate mismatch. Bore is OK, but some roughness as shown. I added a German sight hood cover and a place holder reproduction cleaning rod and muzzle cover. Original sight hoods for the G.98/40 are unobtanium, and I mean unobtanium. My friend saw a loose sight hood go on eBay for $1200. Let me repeat that; twelve hundred dollars for just a sight hood - half again what the rifle cost. That much will get you a great bolt MM K98 outright. I don't know why they haven't survived, but they don't exist. There have been a few private runs of correct reproduction hoods, but this will do just fine for me - and the metal finish actually matches quite well.

t

 

[majspud]

These are my friend's pics. I'll take a new Karabiner family photo tomorrow if it doesn't rain.

Next one I'm looking for is the G.33/40, the short Czech VZ.33. The rifle was shortened and lightened as much as possible from the VZ.24 - barrel is 19" vs. 24", and weight at 7.4 pounds vs. 9.3 pounds. Limited 1940-42 production at about 150,000 pieces, and issued exclusively to the German Mountain Troops.

t

 

[martin08]

Another feather in the cap.

Dang. You are going to have a nice, complete collection when you are done.

 

[majspud]

Hmmm; it's rarer than the G.33/40 - about 140,000 total, with 33,003 made in 1941 (approximately).

t

 

[majspud]

Lightning fast range trip; 25 rounds crummy '78 hard primer Yugo surplus, 53F, overcast, moderate breeze. Benched at 50 yards. Rifle shoots low. Overcompensated high, and then started to hit. Aiming point is in the upper half of the black. I'll be able to elevate the rear sight to hit black at 100.

Looking at the target it's actually upside down; the string slipped right in the center, not left.

t

 

[majspud]

Tried at 100 yards. 50F, overcast, breezy with gusts, drizzle. 40 rounds; 1 stripper of '53, 1x'56, 5x'78, and 1xPPU. Not the best ammo; had to pound open the bolt with the '50s and 1 dud. Rear sight at 200 was too low, 300 too high; 250 seemed right. Rifle is definitely right; the left shots I compensated. I didn't have my hood tool with me. A little right drift will help, but I don't think it's the sharpest tool in the shed. My friend who I got it from shoots better than me and had problems.
T

 

[mac1911]

How clean is the bore?
Also I learned quickly surplus ammo if it goes bang that's all you can ask for.
My RC 1944 k98 started off at minute of back stop at best.
Not until I went through the rifle and completely clean the dark bore. I finally did a electrolysis bore clean and stopped using surplus ammo to finally get that old RC k98 down un der 4 moa.

I use either PPU or reloads.... although I have moved on to cast as it's easier on the wallet to shoot 15¢ per round ammo

 

[majspud]

It's a little dark with pitting. I have it soaking in bore foam; but 65 should have helped clean it out.]. I'll have to recreate my electrolysis kit; it didn't make the move to the new house. I will try tomorrow with a new box of ammo around my errands.

t

 

[mac1911]

It's a little dark with pitting. I have it soaking in bore foam; but 65 should have helped clean it out.]. I'll have to recreate my electrolysis kit; it didn't make the move to the new house. I will try tomorrow with a new box of ammo around my errands.

t

Shooting it does little to help the bore.
Get it clean as you can then let the bore season to some fresh ammo.

I do a poor man's kit couple of C batteries and a old metal coat hanger. A bit of arm and hammer washing soda.
You can use a old phone charger also.

 

[majspud]

I used a 9V, metal rod, electrical tape, and vinegar.

t

 

[mac1911]

I used a 9V, metal rod, electrical tape, and vinegar.

t

It all does the job... I don't know why washing soda does so well but it seems to just pull the rust and gunk deep in the bores...
Warning often you think your bore looks good and shiny. Often this is just copper/lead fouling that's reflecting lots of light. Expect a bore to look gray after a electrolysis and pitted as it pulls a lot of the crud from the pits.

 

[majspud]

It's the amount of free electrolytes in the water; washing soda (sodium carbonate Na[SUB]2[/SUB]CO[SUB]3[/SUB]) disassociates very well in water.

t

Found my wires, but not the rod. Used a spare reproduction ram-rod, duct tape, apple cider vinegar, and off we go!

I may run it again with borax to see what that does.

Both worked fine.

 

[majspud]

Wiped, foamed again, wiped, 10 CLP patches on .32 jag, bore snake x2. I swear the pits look bigger!

We'll see tomorrow.

t

 

[mac1911]

Wiped, foamed again, wiped, 10 CLP patches on .32 jag, bore snake x2. I swear the pits look bigger!

We'll see tomorrow.

t

Yes they get bigger as you pull all the copper and powder fouling out of them.
If I find time I will do a bore scope on a rifle that looks pretty good then do a electrolysis clean and you will see the pits empty and big.

 

[majspud]

You'd think it would shoot better dirty, keeping the pressure in, rather than losing out the bigger pits.

t

 

[mac1911]

You'd think it would shoot better dirty, keeping the pressure in, rather than losing out the bigger pits.

t

I don't think you will really see a decline inaccuracy from gas loss until you get down to the MOA area?
I do think a bore needs a level of seasoning. I do believe once the bore is clean and you stick with one lot or batch of ammo it will help. Example
My 513t shoots wolf extra, tenex and lapua all to MOA or better BUT if you shoot 100 rounds of wolf then switch to tenex it takes about 20 rounds before the tenex groups tighten up.
Part of the reason I do not mess with the sights until I find a particular ammo or load that shoots well. Take your aim point on the target and accept the impact area. Look to improve those groups then adjust sights.
Check your action screws again also. Not to tight though. I use luggage tags to put notes on my gun about ammo , sight settings and such.

How's the crown have you checked headspace?

I did not have a bore scope when I first got my k98.
To say the bore was dark is a understatement. You could hardly see through the nastiness.

Here it is after cleaning then running several rounds of cast through it.
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/329522-dark-bore-K98?highlight=Bore+scope

This gun can hold the black of a SR 1 now and often better if I'm shooting well.

Oh want to have some fun. Once you think it's clean get some sweets 762 cleaner. Stuff is nasty so use out side.

 

[majspud]

Terrible; totally wild now. Hit, then miss the target. Elevation back to base. First shot high right, miss, then high right. My friend had wild results with PPU. I'll try surplus again, but doesn't look good.

T

 

[mac1911]

Which PPU?
I would just pick a ammo and stay with it for a while. Shoot the same year surplus for the next 25-100 rounds or how ever much you have.
How's the crown and headspace.

My rifle likes the soft points best
The 200 grain Match not so much.
I actually found a nice load with nosler 200 grain custom comp bullet and a lighter charge of H4895
But as mentioned I have switched to cast loads...
As far as your rifle this is what I went through with mine. It took a while to get it shooting well.

 

[Hardwired]

It's the amount of free electrolytes in the water; washing soda (sodium carbonate Na[SUB]2[/SUB]CO[SUB]3[/SUB]) disassociates very well in water.

t

Found my wires, but not the rod. Used a spare reproduction ram-rod, duct tape, apple cider vinegar, and off we go!

I may run it again with borax to see what that does.

Both worked fine.

How are you guys actually doing the electrolysis?
Are you just putting solution inside the bore and containing it all somehow?

I guess I would be concerned about damaging the outer finish.
Reason I ask is I have an M39 and the bore looks scary dark.

 

[majspud]

Put a rubber stopper inside the receiver/breech. I have a funnel with a short length of tubing that attached to the muzzle. Rod inside the bore with duct or electrical tape at the bottom, middle, crown to keep metal from contacting metal = short circuit. Positive electrode on the rod, negative ground on the front sight. Solution inside the bore.

FYI, this does not work with a Garand.Found out the hard way!

t

 

[majspud]

Pictures are worth a thousand words. Optimally, the rod is much thinner. The ram-rod was an expedient as I could not find my original rod which is half as thick. You can see the dried crud still in the funnel from the last use.

t

 

[mac1911]

Put a rubber stopper inside the receiver/breech. I have a funnel with a short length of tubing that attached to the muzzle. Rod inside the bore with duct or electrical tape at the bottom, middle, crown to keep metal from contacting metal = short circuit. Positive electrode on the rod, negative ground on the front sight. Solution inside the bore.

FYI, this does not work with a Garand.Found out the hard way!

t

Ahh yes the gas port....

 

[mac1911]

How are you guys actually doing the electrolysis?
Are you just putting solution inside the bore and containing it all somehow?

I guess I would be concerned about damaging the outer finish.
Reason I ask is I have an M39 and the bore looks scary dark.

What you need to make sure you understand is what you are trying to remove.
Vinegar and ammonia will remove the copper fouling.
Washing soda removes rust also the polarity is different for each solution.
The first thing you should do is hot soapy water
and some snug fitting brushes. Clean it good.
Then some copper solvent.
Then your last method should be electro