How to preserve fresh brass from tarnishing

[jtnf]

Im always happy to be wrong, its how i learn.
But i have a hard time seeing how; as long as there consistant, how the groups would open up.

The operating theory is that "stiction" is at play here... Mechanical sticking (friction) of very clean metal on very clean metal. If the hardnesses of the case and projjie jacket are comparable, you may even get galling.
Dry media dust will function as a lubricant and allow the case-neck-to-projie retention force to be a lot more consistent.

 

[RImike]

The operating theory is that "stiction" is at play here... Mechanical sticking (friction) of very clean metal on very clean metal. If the hardnesses of the case and projjie jacket are comparable, you may even get galling.
Dry media dust will function as a lubricant and allow the case-neck-to-projie retention force to be a lot more consistent.

To add one more layer, the necks are annealed as well...

 

[Taipan01]

I just use Foldgers coffee cans to store them without any additives, wax, etc. Here's a photo I shot a couple years ago for another web site, to answer the same question. They still looked the same 6 months ago but I reloaded them since.



The label shows how long they've been there.

 

[Ranger007]

I have been teatering on this. What kind/type/size etc to use for tubling brass?

After making the plunge into stainless steel media tumbling, I am blown away by how quickly and shinny the brass comes out. The most time consuming part is sorting the ss pins out of the .223 brass.

 

[Gammon]

What if it was dry tumbled in crushed walnut shell after? Would the oils from the crushed shells work back into the brass?

The idea is that dry tumbling leaves a trace amount of lube to ease resizing. I doubt that dry media can add any lube.

 

[Taipan01]

I have been teatering on this. What kind/type/size etc to use for tubling brass?

After making the plunge into stainless steel media tumbling, I am blown away by how quickly and shinny the brass comes out. The most time consuming part is sorting the ss pins out of the .223 brass.

I still prefer to dry tumble but I do wet tumble on occasion. Here's the size and where you can get it: .041 X .265 available from Buffalo Arms Co. If you go by the pound in your measurements, 1 level 1/2 cup = 1 pound weight.

 

[Steve Marshall]

Try wet tumbling without pins. On average, I sell about 15,000 pieces a month and whenever I get a Feedback on brass condition it's always a positive about how the brass looks. There is no way I could inspect that many without wet tumbling. I use a food dehydrator to dry them. For my own use, I can't detect any difference when loading. With no sweat at all you can clean a 5 gallon bucket of brass a day. Of course I am retired but still. That means that you can clean, dry and inspect 8,000 9MM cases on a Sunday should you still work for a living.

 

[MGnoob]

I've got an Instron with a six digit readout that could end this argument, if either of us had the time to build the test populations and do the test!

I hate to to be the nay-sayer. (Im a m*******) but id like to see these results.
My first thought would be the rules dont apply to me..lead(lubrisized) or lead tumble lubed, or my copper plated semi-kinda tumble lubed won't cause galling between case neck id and projectile.

Also when i mean wet-washed .... theres some kind of residue.. i dont over worry about tarnished brass... "stiction" that doesnt even sound like a word..

Check out bigdawg tumblers info page and dawn dish soap makes all the difference

Stic·tion
ˈstikSHən/
nounPHYSICS

• the friction that tends to prevent stationary surfaces from being set in motion
  
  
  
  

 

[Smokewagon]

After making the plunge into stainless steel media tumbling, I am blown away by how quickly and shinny the brass comes out. The most time consuming part is sorting the ss pins out of the .223 brass.

So my question is, how to maintain the appearance between now and when I load as well as after re-loading? The reason I asked is that I read and am not sure if it's true, that there is a coating sometimes on new brass? Is this true?

Use lemishine and a wash and wax car wash soap instead of dish soap when you wet tumble. Will prevent tarnishing and it will save you a step from the corn cob/walnut and Nufinish method. It also helps prevent galling (called stiction above?) when resizing. Once dry I store mine in a cleaned out pretzel/cheesy poof barrel that snacks come in at Sam's/BS's/Costco, or Homer bucket from HD if you have enough. Works a treat, and they wont tarnish.

 

[RImike]

I have been teatering on this. What kind/type/size etc to use for tubling brass?

I use the dual rotary tumbler from Harbor Freight tools: http://www.harborfreight.com/dual-drum-rotary-rock-tumbler-67632.html
With coupon it's $50

First I put 50 rounds of .223 in each drum.

For the media I put about 2.25 lbs of SS media in each drum.

Link to media: https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-St...r=8-1&keywords=stainless+steel+tumbling+media

Give it a good shake to settle, fill it with water so it's below the rim, put a dollop of Dawn in it followed by a 9mm case full of Lemi-Shine.

Turn it on and come back in an hour.

The total costs for this is right at $100.

 

[josh2600]

It's true. I base this on hundreds or maybe thousands of groups with both dry and wet-tumbled brass. It's an "inside-the-neck" thing.

Wet-tumbled brass is so clean inside that it causes the amount of "hold" on the bullet to vary, thus opening up groups. You can actually feel it when you seat, and see it on the target.

Dry-tumbled brass has trace amounts of residue inside the neck that ends up normalizing bullet hold.

You can say I'm full of shit, but it won't matter because I know I'm right.

Plenty of benchrest and precision rifle guys would agree with you. I've seen it many times in the forums.

 

[Steve Marshall]

Again, try wet tumbling without pins. The outside of the case is clean but the primer pockets and interior of the case, while "clean" still have residue.