Help needed with .223 (SUCCESS!)

[Urj]

Ok, I've got 99% of the gear needed to load .223. Just a few questions.

1 - I have a Dillon case length gauge for .223. If the case fits into the case gauge without the neck sticking out the end I can just load it without trimming correct? Or As long as the case isn't longer than the spec'd 1.760 inches I don't have to trim?

2 - I got a bottle of RCBS case lube. This stuff is coming out with the consistency of super glue. Hard to squeeze out of the bottle and when it comes out it's just small drops of goo. Is this right? Do I need to cut it with something? Take it back and get something else?

Think that's it for now. These are going to be primarily used in a S&W M&P15ft if that helps.

Thanks guys!

 

[Lugnut]

Ok, I've got 99% of the gear needed to load .223. Just a few questions.

1 - I have a Dillon case length gauge for .223. If the case fits into the case gauge without the neck sticking out the end I can just load it without trimming correct? Or As long as the case isn't longer than the spec'd 1.760 inches I don't have to trim?

2 - I got a bottle of RCBS case lube. This stuff is coming out with the consistency of super glue. Hard to squeeze out of the bottle and when it comes out it's just small drops of goo. Is this right? Do I need to cut it with something? Take it back and get something else?

Think that's it for now. These are going to be primarily used in a S&W M&P15ft if that helps.

Thanks guys!

#1 no you don't need to trim. As long as you don't exceed the length you don't need to trim.

#2 Doesn't sound right. Should be thick but not like that.

 

[HangEmHigh]

Ive got some RCBS case lube. Yes its very thick. Are you applying it to the RCBS 'pad' that looks like an ink pad?

 

[Dick]

I'm not familiar with the Dillon gauge (and would recommend getting some digital calipers), but like other case gauges, I would assume that it's set for the maximum case length, which is 1.760" for .223. The second part is certainly correct - you don't need to trim if the case doesn't exceed the maximum allowable case length (after resizing), but you may want to for a couple of reasons: (1) trimming will make the neck mouth more uniform, which can help accuracy, and (2) getting all of a lot of brass to the same length will help ensure a uniform crimp (assuming your using a bullet with a cannelure) and you usually need to trim them all to accomplish that.

Sounds to me like the case lube is dried out, but I use Imperial wax, so don't have any familiarity with the RCBS stuff.

 

[Urj]

Thanks guys!

I've got calipers but don't want to have to caliper every single case, just dropping it in a case length gauge is much more appealing to me.

I don't have the "pad" for the RCBS goo. I'm probably just going to get some Dillon lube on Friday.

 

[Dick]

I've got calipers but don't want to have to caliper every single case, just dropping it in a case length gauge is much more appealing to me.

No - don't do it that way. Set the calipers for maximum case length and use them as a go/no go gauge. Better than buying a separate gauge for every cartridge you reload.

 

[Urj]

I'm only doing .223 so I won't be buying more gauges. Don't plan on doing anymore rifle calibers. But I'll do that if I end up adding others.

 

[Snapshot]

I'm probably just going to get some Dillon lube on Friday.

Best advice I ever got (when it comes to lube) was to go to your local home improvement center. Go to where ever they keep their electrical wiring stuff. Pick up a bottle of wax-based wire pulling lube. It's only a few dollars for a bottle that's slightly smaller then a 2 liter soda bottle and is made of the exact same stuff as the lube that Lee sells for 10 bucks for a tube the size of a toothpaste container.

 

[highlander]

I have a Dillon case gauge and use it to keep my head space to minimum.
If it is the same gauge I have it is black bottom has 2 steps representing the max and minimum head space. I have set my dies so the bottom of the case is just a tad below the max,that way I have cases that feed reliably with out over working the brass. I also use a vernier caliper to measure case length more accurate than any gauge.

 

[Jasper]

save yourself the trouble/hassle of using the case lube pad!

Northshore Firearms (stocking dillon dealer) has the dillon case lube. couldnt be easier to use. lay your brass out in a box top/cookie tray/whatever....give the brass a spritz, wait about 5 minutes, shake it around, give it another spritz, wait another 5 minutes to let the alcohol evaporate, and go to town! i've never stuck a case using the dillon lube, and since it's lanolin based, it wont screw with primers.

you also avoid the issue of "too much lube", which can lead to dents in the shoulder/neck on your brass!

 

[Fixxah]

Don't skip the case gauge, they are worth their weight in gold. If you check all your loaded ammo you will not have any issue with the gun in relation to said ammo. Dillon case gauge is the best IMHO since they are cut in the true case dimension whereas the Lyman gauge I have is cut the same from the base to the shoulder.

I would watch out for overcrimping the case. This usually bumps out the shoulder and will not fit right when you put it in the gauge and will cause jamming at the range. Your bullet puller will get a workout.

 

[richc]

FYI North Shore Firearms has Dillon case gauges in stock. I bought a couple there yesterday.

Rich

 

[Patriot]

No - don't do it that way. Set the calipers for maximum case length and use them as a go/no go gauge. Better than buying a separate gauge for every cartridge you reload.

My process is close to that:

1) Clean
2) Check case length as above. Cull those needing trimming (more than .005" over trim
length) - Some use .010" over trim length before trimming. Cuts down on trimming big time.
3) Initial visual inspection
4) Lube, Size, & De-prime
5) Clean
6) Inspection (visual and case gauge check) & clean media from flash holes
7) Charge, Seat Bullet, Crimp
8) Final Inspection (visual and case gauge check)

On all my inspection stages I have one and only one philosophy wrt the cases. if in doubt
throw it out!

 

[DukeInFlorida]

I am with Patriot. That process is virtually the same as how I do it.
Cuts down on the trimming time. I don't trim everything. I trim the stuff that needs to get trimmed.

My process is close to that:

1) Clean
2) Check case length as above. Cull those needing trimming (more than .005" over trim
length) - Some use .010" over trim length before trimming. Cuts down on trimming big time.
3) Initial visual inspection
4) Lube, Size, & De-prime
5) Clean
6) Inspection (visual and case gauge check) & clean media from flash holes
7) Charge, Seat Bullet, Crimp
8) Final Inspection (visual and case gauge check)

On all my inspections stages I have one and only one philosophy wrt the cases. if in doubt
throw it out!

 

[Urj]

Took my first 10 rounds to the range today. Perfect function out of my MP15ft and great accuracy. I think I'm going to bump up the powder charge another 0.5grns.

Starting recipe was

Remington once fired brass, remington primers, 22.5grns Alliant reloader 10x, Berry's 55grn FMJ.

Going to move up to 23grns even.

 

[Fixxah]

If it cycles the gun and is accurate, leave it alone. It is cheapest way to extend the life of your brass. yYou have chrono? I have to get one for working up 5.56 myself.

Congrats.

 

[Urj]

Don't have a chrono, wasn't really interested in maxing things out but I don't want my rounds dropping like rocks at 200 yards either. The max load listed for the components is 25 grains so I'll think I'm still on the low end even at 23.

 

[Patriot]

My process is close to that:

1) Clean
2) Check case length as above. Cull those needing trimming (more than .005" over trim
length) - Some use .010" over trim length before trimming. Cuts down on trimming big time.
Swage primer pockets if necessary.
3) Initial visual inspection
4) Lube, Size, & De-prime
5) Clean
6) Inspection (visual and case gauge check) & clean media from flash holes
7) Charge, Seat Bullet, Crimp
8) Final Inspection (visual and case gauge check)

On all my inspection stages I have one and only one philosophy wrt the cases. if in doubt
throw it out!

ETA: Swaging step.