First AR15 Build. Thoughts, Ideas?

L

LT1MCSS

Joined
Mar 1, 2008
Messages
1,630
Likes
46
Location
North Shore, MA
Feedback: 15 / 0 / 0
Many of you probably saw my muzzle brake thread I put up earlier this week. I put that up because I'm looking to do my first AR15 build which will be my first AR as well. It has taken me quite a long time to get into rifles. I've primarily been interested in pistols but I think its time for a little change of pace. The last few days I have searched this forum as well as other forums such as ar15.com. I have also visited a majority of the major manufactures websites. It became obvious I may need some minor gunsmithing work done to remove/attach a compensator which was the basis for my last thread. Now that I got that figured out (Business End Customs) I can move on to choosing the parts. What I'm looking to do here is throw out my list of parts I came up with but also get some ideas from all of you. I'm not looking for top of the line but I don't want bottom of the barrel either. I'm looking to build a good mid range rifle.The kind of rifle you would have built if you knew then what you knew now kind of thing. I don't want to go so cheap that in a few months I'm already looking to build another. This will be my only AR for a while as next rifle will be an AK.

A friend of mine has built a few AR's and has owned many of them so he is going to help me actually build it. He is a free stater and I'm not so when it comes to the upper and stock I'm more restricted than he is.

For the basics what i was looking for:

Purpose: Target, Sport, just a fun rifle. I don't think I will be doing any extreme long distance shooting.
Budget: $1100-1200 (I could go a little higher, say $1500 if it's really that much better)
Lower: From what I have been told and see there doesn't seem to be much difference here, tons of options
Upper: I like the 14.5"-14.7" mid length for some reason, call it cool or whatever you want I tend to like the look. I'm not totally against a 16" barrel but definitely no longer than that. I am also looking to do a flat top, quad rail, no front post sight. I'm kinda looking to go with a complete upper on this build I think.

So now for some parts:


Lower, I also considered the PSA Stealth since it's cheaper but it's a little too plain without a roll mark I think. I talked to John at Precision Point and he is supposed to be coming out with his own lower so I may check that out to. Anyone else have one they like?
$119.99 - http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...arts/lower-receivers/psa-lower-safe-fire.html


Upper I'm really torn on the upper. I hear PSA is a good bang for the buck upper. My friend has used many PSA components now and been totally satisfied with all of them. From what everyone says not the best but not bad at all.I just don't know if it really is worth the extra $400 or so to get a more expensive one like the Bravo Company given its probably going to be one of my only AR's (I say this lol) but who knows. This comes from never having owned any of them before.
$459.99 - PSA 14.7” CHF Mid-length Profile SQR Hybrid 13.5” - Pinned, without BCG or Charging Handle - SKU 34683
http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...-5-pinned-without-bcg-or-charging-handle.html
$960 - BCM
http://www.bravocompanyusa.com/BCM-...-p/bcm-urg-mid-14bfhlw-ddl12.htm?1=1&CartID=2


LPK My friend did say he liked his Spikes tactical LPK but they are all sold out with no ETA
$49.99 - PSA Classic LPK
http://palmettostatearmory.com/inde...s-kits/palmetto-state-armory-classic-lpk.html


BCG & Charge Handle
$50 - BCM Charge Handle
http://www.amazon.com/VLTOR-BCM-Gunfighter-Charging-Handle/dp/B005XA8UOU
$140 - BCG, PSA
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index.php/m16-bolt-carrier-group.html


Muzzle Brake I know people like the Battlecomp but it just seems really expensive for what it is. The Battlecomp I looked at the 1.5, and some people were leary of it because the front was recessed a bit, but the 2.0 looked nice as well. I did read the ATF doesn't classify them as a FH and they have paperwork from the ATF but I'm till not sold on the high price tag.
$69 - Daniel Defense Muzzle Climb Mitigator
https://danieldefense.com/daniel-defense-muzzle-climb-mitigator.html
$100 - PWS TTO
http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=88


Stock I'm undecided on stocks. I definitely do NOT like the A2 stock and don't want a collapsible stock and have to pin it though. I'm leaning towards the magpul though.
$49.95 - Magpul Fixed Carbine Stock - Mill Spec Model
http://store.magpul.com/product/MAG480/60
$100 - Ace Skeleton Stock, ARFX-E Shorty, AR0113T
http://www.rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=303


Grip & Foregrip I'm sure grips are widely debated. I know a lot of people like the Magpul and I do too. I know my friend didn't see to like it much but this is a friends company and I would really like to support them if I can.
$40 - Stark Equipment SE-1, grip Picture
$30 - Stark Equipment SE-5, foregrip Picture
http://starkequipment.com/


Sights
I haven't picked any sights yet but I'll probably do a set of flip ups like magpul and then an optic such an an Eotech or Aimpoint. I haven't decided on that yet and will probably wait till it's built to decide.
 
Last edited:
Hogue for the pistol grip. Then put an aluminum MagPul trigger guard (for winter gloves) on it and be done. IMO, the grip that has the trigger guard built into it is ghey.

Also, you can assemble an upper to have exactly what you want for not a lot of money. Figure out the range, and accuracy, you want to use this at. Then build the upper to meet those spec's. Even for a novice, you can assemble an AR (from parts) in an afternoon (at most). If you get some assistance, even faster. Find someone with the tools, and experience, and it will go smoother.

I'm planning on building an upper for 200-300 yard shooting, with 1 MOA accuracy. To build the upper, I'm looking at close to your low ended item (PSA). That's without the optic (that will run me about $300-$350 mounted).

DO get a BCM charging handle. I have a Mod4 on my 5.56 carbine and now a Mod3 on my 300 Blackout pistol (Mod3 is the largest). 10000% worth what they cost. If you don't need an ambi CH, it's the best option/choice [IMO].

Also, there's a lot of threads about BCG's... You can get one for less than $140 without much effort.
 
Golddiggie said:
Hogue for the pistol grip. Then put an aluminum MagPul trigger guard (for winter gloves) on it and be done. IMO, the grip that has the trigger guard built into it is ghey.

Also, you can assemble an upper to have exactly what you want for not a lot of money. Figure out the range, and accuracy, you want to use this at. Then build the upper to meet those spec's. Even for a novice, you can assemble an AR (from parts) in an afternoon (at most). If you get some assistance, even faster. Find someone with the tools, and experience, and it will go smoother.

I'm planning on building an upper for 200-300 yard shooting, with 1 MOA accuracy. To build the upper, I'm looking at close to your low ended item (PSA). That's without the optic (that will run me about $300-$350 mounted).

DO get a BCM charging handle. I have a Mod4 on my 5.56 carbine and now a Mod3 on my 300 Blackout pistol (Mod3 is the largest). 10000% worth what they cost. If you don't need an ambi CH, it's the best option/choice [IMO].

Also, there's a lot of threads about BCG's... You can get one for less than $140 without much effort.
Click to expand...

I'm not totally against building an upper but I just think if I do that I may start getting in over my head my first time out. Maybe it's because I've never done it before but building the lower doesn't seem all the bad compared to picking all the parts for the upper.

The grip I'm not totally sold on yet either way, I do see a lot of people do NOT like the built in trigger guard. I'm not sure why they designed it that way.
 
You seem to have a good idea of what you want.
Amswering your question what would I do then knowing what I know now.
For a general fun gun with potential for decent target potential. I will give example
Lower....any good quality lower. Preceded through group buy at discount.
NES YHM LOWER 98$
STOCK....I like my eye as close as possible to the rear peep. Nose against the rear of upper reciever close. So A1 stock to avoid mass bs and costly stocks like the PRS. A1 stock kit 55$
UPPER RECIEVER: pick up one from a group buy. Flat top complete with CH, dust cover and forward assist. 110$
BARREL: Wilson 18" varmint barrel. This is one place I really wish I knew then.
No muzzle device....avoids any fuss over needing to pin and weld or undo a pin and weld for what ever reason....plus I see no real benifit of brake or compensatory. That's just me. Barrel with matching bolt 300.00
BCG: Chromed or nickel I forget what it is or who...another group buy think it was 90$ 15" free float tube with mono rail on top.
RRA national match detach carry handle sight and matching detach front sight.
180$
Rra lpk with nm trigger 130$
Gas tube 10$
Harris bipod. Swivel 139$, low pro gas block 35$
Laru quick mount and a decent target scope. Nice thin line reticle. Nothing worse than trying to shoot a X when the dot or fat hairs cover out to the 9 ring!
So that said. Knowing then what I know now.....bigger budget for rifle and optics.

All said and done I basically built a clone of this.
http://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=228 but with a 15" rail sights and bipod included along with all shipping, taxes and fees for 1300$
Now I'm saving for a new scope as my last scope is just to busy and covers to much of the target. I'm not looking to just hit my target I want little groups.....want is key here I need more time behinf the trigger.
I also have my "last " build going which will be axoptics only rife with 20" barrel. I had one more reciever left to build out.
 
Last edited:
mac1911 said:
You seem to have a good idea of what you want.
Amswering your question what would I do then knowing what I know now.
For a general fun gun with potential for decent target potential. I will give example
Lower....any good quality lower. Preceded through group buy at discount.
NES YHM LOWER 98$
STOCK....I like my eye as close as possible to the rear peep. Nose against the rear of upper receiver close. So A1 stock to avoid mass bs and costly stocks like the PRS. A1 stock kit 55$
UPPER RECEIVER: pick up one from a group buy. Flat top complete with CH, dust cover and forward assist. 110$
BARREL: Wilson 18" varmint barrel. This is one place I really wish I knew then.
No muzzle device....avoids any fuss over needing to pin and weld or undo a pin and weld for what ever reason....plus I see no real benifit of brake or compensatory. That's just me. Barrel with matching bolt 300.00
BCG: Chromed or nickel I forget what it is or who...another group buy think it was 90$ 15" free float tube with mono rail on top.
RRA national match detach carry handle sight and matching detach front sight.
180$
Rra lpk with nm trigger 130$
Gas tube 10$
Harris bipod. Swivel 139$, low pro gas block 35$
Laru quick mount and a decent target scope. Nice thin line reticle. Nothing worse than trying to shoot a X when the dot or fat hairs cover out to the 9 ring!
So that said. Knowing then what I know now.....bigger budget for rifle and optics.

All said and done I basically built a clone of this.
http://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=228 but with a 15" rail sights and bipod included along with all shipping, taxes and fees for 1300$
Now I'm saving for a new scope as my last scope is just to busy and covers to much of the target. I'm not looking to just hit my target I want little groups.....want is key here I need more time behinf the trigger.
I also have my "last " build going which will be axoptics only rife with 20" barrel. I had one more receiver left to build out.
Click to expand...


That sounds like a solid build you have. I'm going to look at the RRA LPK's again. I think once this one is done, if I ever do a 2nd one, I'll do a 20"


As for the compensator. That's actually one of the things I've spent quite a bit of time on and I'd have to agree they probably don't do much. If anything I hear some people say some of them can be obnoxiously loud. If i did the 14.5-14.7 barrel I obviously have no choice but to run one but if I did a 16" barrel i wouldn't need to. I'm so used to seeing AR's with them whenever you see one without one it's almost like something is missing.

Just to entertain it, I think if i went without a compensator I might consider a stainless barrel. Actually something exactly like what you linked to while I was typing this reply [laugh]

mac1911 said:
If I where to just buy a upper for some reason I am drawn to this thing. http://rockriverarms.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_id=270 but I would go with the 15" rail and just have that tip of the barrel sticking out.
I like long rails....
Click to expand...
I like these
16 Inch Varmint A4 Upper Half
Item#: AR0500X
Bead Blasted Bull Stainless 1:8: +$35.00
Chromed Bolt Carrier Group: +$60.00
RRA TRO-Mid: +$10.00
BCMGunfighter/Medium Latch: +$25.00|
Total $830
 
Last edited:
Theres so much out there for building. I have went from just a carbine to full blown tactifool....even a few different cals. In the end I sold off everything. Now I have a RRA standard A2, RRA National match A2 and my last current build.
I do miss my "varmint" gun a little. Everything else was just not for me. This last build is all done with the less expensive quality parts I could muster along with left overs and spare parts......you could almost say "free" soince they have been long paid for. I went for a simple inexpensive free float. like 60$ its as nice as any and comes with the hole for swivel stud pre drilled. I also have a hogue on a 22lr upper that has been solid but needed to drill hole for sling swivel(bipod mount) This is going to be a optics only gun and hope to get out to 600 yards a few times a year but mostly 200 yards

http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/235080-my-last-ar-build
 
Seriously building an AR is not that hard. Yes the upper requires a few specific tools to build but the build itself is not rocket science.
I went with a barrel assembly from Windham Weaponry to avoid the pin weld BS as they have compliant barrels.
 
You've gotten some good responses already, so I'll just throw in a few quick notes:

- You ought to be able to get a decent lower for under $100 transferred at this point. Either get in on a group buy (On Target is going to do Spikes again soon probably $90) or look at AIM Surplus for a lot of choices that you should be able to do for $100 or less.

- If you go with a prebuilt upper with a <16" barrel, the comp will already be pinned so you'd have to cut that off. I'd just keep what they have if it is MA legal. If you are going to change anything on the prebuilt, you will probably find you could do it cheaper to just build it from scratch.

- I would save the money and go with a PSA upper if you aren't going to build from scratch. Use the money you saved to get a 2-stage trigger and better optics.

- Speaking of two-stage triggers, I would recommend the CMMG lower parts kits with 2-stage trigger. If you look you should be able to find one for like $125. I have one on my target build and like it. Some people say the RRA is better, but usually more money. Up to you. Or wait for the group buy on the Timneys.

- Definitely get a BCM charging handle. Especially if you're putting a scope on it. I like the Mod3.

- If you think you might move out of MA someday, get the Magpul FCS. Then if you move and can have a real adjustable stock, you'll already have a carbine buffer system. If you get a fixed stock with a rifle tube, you'll have to get a new buffer system. Not a big deal, but think ahead, right?

- I think you can do better on the BCG for the price. Either get a phosphate one for less, or pay a little more and get chrome or NiB. Stag has the chrome for like $145, phosphate for $115.

Have fun with it!
 
Spike's BCG $120:
http://www.northeastshooters.com/vbulletin/threads/235803-Official-Spikes-Tactical-BCG-s

If I were you I would build the upper, that way you get EXACTLY what you want. You don't have to settle on anything and sometimes it can be cheaper. You should definitely come in under $1k. I built mine for under that using ALL quality parts. 14.5" Rainier Arms barrel. I have only been able to shoot her out to 200 yards so not far at all and it's pretty accurate. I love my ACE skeleton stock (rifle length) and Rainier Arms XTC comp.
I've read good things about the Miculek comp and I think that's only about $30, not sure if it would bring a 14.5" barrel to 16" though.
I would go for the BCM charging handle.
You should be able to get a decent lower for $100 including shipping and transfer fee.
If you can hold off on the lower though I would wait and pick up the one Johnny spoke to you about, they're nice looking lowers.

My baby:
1.jpg
 
Which length handguard is that?? Assuming that's the one Ben helped you "un-bugger'...

BTW, since getting involved in 80% lowers, I can't see paying for a 100% lower again. So many benefits...
 
Golddiggie said:
Which length handguard is that?? Assuming that's the one Ben helped you "un-bugger'...

BTW, since getting involved in 80% lowers, I can't see paying for a 100% lower again. So many benefits...
Click to expand...

I THINK it is the 12" model
 
LT1MCSS said:
Purpose: Target, Sport, just a fun rifle. I don't think I will be doing any extreme long distance shooting.
Budget: $1100-1200 (I could go a little higher, say $1500 if it's really that much better)
Lower: From what I have been told and see there doesn't seem to be much difference here, tons of options
Upper: I like the 14.5"-14.7" mid length for some reason, call it cool or whatever you want I tend to like the look. I'm not totally against a 16" barrel but definitely no longer than that. I am also looking to do a flat top, quad rail, no front post sight. I'm kinda looking to go with a complete upper on this build I think.

So now for some parts:



Grip & Foregrip I'm sure grips are widely debated. I know a lot of people like the Magpul and I do too. I know my friend didn't see to like it much but this is a friends company and I would really like to support them if I can.
$40 - Stark Equipment SE-1, grip Picture
$30 - Stark Equipment SE-5, foregrip Picture
http://starkequipment.com/


Sights
I haven't picked any sights yet but I'll probably do a set of flip ups like magpul and then an optic such an an Eotech or Aimpoint. I haven't decided on that yet and will probably wait till it's built to decide.

LPK My friend did say he liked his Spikes tactical LPK but they are all sold out with no ETA
$49.99 - PSA Classic LPK
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...assic-lpk.html
Click to expand...

I'm going to chime in on these two points, because they are a matter of function more than anything else. All the other stuff is personal preference on how YOU want your rifle to be set up.

That said, I was all over that stark grip, but didn't want to pay for it. So, instead of that grip, I went to an enhanced style trigger guard from Strike Industries. Inexpensive/well made. $10.50

Sights are a different ball game. If you are getting a completed upper that has a front sight gas block combo, you will only need the rear back up sight. I like the quick deploy from YHM. Inexpensive and well made.

Lower Parts Kit: Go with a GOOD lower parts kit. If you are trying to save money and you want to do a little gunsmithing (or are not adverse to it), then by all means, buy a cheap LPK. For my first build, I bought one without the fire control group and put in a drop in kit. For my second build, I went the opposite way and got a cheap as kit from PTAC and did some polishing....

Right now you can build a sweet rifle for less than you have budgeted if you really want. The biggest things to consider are the most important: Barrel, FCG, BCG and Gas Block. That's where you will need to concentrate on quality.
 
JCV said:
I THINK it is the 12" model
Click to expand...

I used the same (12") tube for my last build:

ardone.jpg
 
I mentioned this already on a different thread but Rainier Arms is selling their RA branded BCGs for $99 right now.

Keep looking around, once you make the big decision between buying a complete upper or building one there are plenty of people here to help in either case.
 
LT1MCSS said:
Muzzle Brake I know people like the Battlecomp but it just seems really expensive for what it is. The Battlecomp I looked at the 1.5, and some people were leary of it because the front was recessed a bit, but the 2.0 looked nice as well. I did read the ATF doesn't classify them as a FH and they have paperwork from the ATF but I'm till not sold on the high price tag.
$69 - Daniel Defense Muzzle Climb Mitigator
https://danieldefense.com/daniel-defense-muzzle-climb-mitigator.html
$100 - PWS TTO
http://primaryweapons.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=88
Click to expand...

The BCM 1.5 is the same as the 1.0, it the face is not recessed, they just extended that ring so you can pin it on a 14.5" barrel to make it 16" with out changing the function of the device.

If you are looking at spending 100 bucks, take a look at the BCM comp. I like mine, it is a pretty good all around compromise brake.
 
gearwhore14 said:
Jeez eddiecoyle, that thing looks like it can cross area codes but how much does that beast weigh?
Click to expand...

It ain't light, but I have another AR I built for carrying around that weighs less than 6 pounds.

mac1911 said:
that crown looks so much nicer than some honking muzzle device.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not too concerned about recoil with this one.
 
Last edited:
EddieCoyle said:
I used the same (12") tube for my last build:

ardone.jpg
Click to expand...


I like that, I am still giving the RRA Varmint upper serious thought. The more I look I really can't find a muzzle device I like. It seems like for the most part the compensators are just noise makers.


I ordered some of the parts for my build like the buffer tube, stock, grip, and LPK's. I decided since lowers are so cheap I'll at least fully build out one AR and keep the other fully assembled lower in the safe in case I ever want to do another. Maybe I'll focus on light weight for the current build and maybe a stainless barrel down the road.
 
Last edited:
edmorseiii said:
The BCM 1.5 is the same as the 1.0, it the face is not recessed, they just extended that ring so you can pin it on a 14.5" barrel to make it 16" with out changing the function of the device.

If you are looking at spending 100 bucks, take a look at the BCM comp. I like mine, it is a pretty good all around compromise brake.
Click to expand...


The BCM would have been a front runner for me. Even though it looks like its designed to be more of a compensator than a FH, per their description they have "This Compensator was not designed as a gamers comp. It was designed for tactical applications to reduce muzzle rise, flash signature, noise, and lateral pressure." The reduce flash signature part has me leary in MA. It sounds really stupid but I don't want to take any chances. I think that would could be borderline ok, but probably closer to ok than not.
 
LT1MCSS said:
The BCM would have been a front runner for me. Even though it looks like its designed to be more of a compensator than a FH, per their description they have "This Compensator was not designed as a gamers comp. It was designed for tactical applications to reduce muzzle rise, flash signature, noise, and lateral pressure." The reduce flash signature part has me leary in MA. It sounds really stupid but I don't want to take any chances. I think that would could be borderline ok, but probably closer to ok than not.
Click to expand...

Suit yourself, I had it on my gun while in MA and didn't think twice about it, but then again I didn't think twice about most of the retarded laws there. It is called a compensator, that should be good enough.

It is a pretty good comp. It does a decent job reducing felt recoil and is about as offensive as an A2 when standing next to it on the line, I can't say much about its flash signature, I have not shot it at night.
 
I started ordering some of the basics today.

2 - Complete Spikes Lower Parts Kits
1 - Magpul MOE Fixed Stock
1 - Stark Equipment SE-1 w/ SE-5 front grip
1 - mil-spec carbine buffer tube assembly
1 - BCM Mod 4 Charge Handle

I think I may order the BCG tonight, i just have to make a final decision on which one I want.

I also decided since i went for 2 LPK's I'm going to get 2 lowers and assemble both. I may or may not put a stock on it right away which is why I haven't got a 2nd buffer tube kit yet, stock, grip etc. I think I may try a magpul grip on the 2nd, but i read on Starks page they are going to have a new grip supposedly without the build in trigger guard so maybe I will try that.

I still haven't made a final decision on a compensator that. That's actually been the hardest decision to make and it's one of the most straight forward parts.
 
ColdDayInHell said:
Specs please.
Click to expand...

The heavy one?

24" White Oak (Wilson) 1:8 "Varmint" barrel
The gas block that White Oak sent with the barrel
Seekins forged lower (with ambi-everything)
Random mil-spec upper receiver
Giessele 2-stage trigger
BCA FA BCG
Midwest Engineering 12" forend
Magpul PRS stock
Accu-shot monopod
SWFA SS 20X scope on Burris Xtreme rings
Cool grip with big fat palm-swell (I can't remember who made it)
Sinclair bipod (which I used only for the picture)

ETA:

The buffer, tube, and spring are all no-name Mil-spec.

I didn't use a parts kit for the lower. The Seekins comes with an ambi-bolt catch and built-in trigger guard. I put in an ambi mag release, ambi safety, Giessele trigger, KNS pins, and extended takedown pins. By then, all the remaining parts I needed (a few springs and detents) I had lying around.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads

AR15 Bolt Doesn't Lock Back After Last Round
2
Replies
52
Views
901
BTSDOG
BTSDOG
WTK - Interest in Build Party
Replies
7
Views
878
Muther
M
10/22 build
Replies
15
Views
851
lilbear
L
Black powder build
Replies
17
Views
773
Sweeney
Sweeney
Working on my build.
Replies
25
Views
1K
mac1911
M
Back
Top Bottom