Failure to Fire: S&W 686

[O/U]

Hi folks,

Some of you might remember that I recently purchased my very first handgun a few months ago: a used Smith 686-6 .357 revolver.

Unfortunately, I haven't had much time to shoot it. I did manage to put 100 rounds through it last week. They were UMC .38 specials purchased at Dick's.

In 100 rounds, I had two failure to fires. The rounds came around again and went off just fine. 2 out of 100 seems like way more FTF's than I want in a field/home defense gun.

From what I've heard, Smith takes care of their customers so I'm not really worried on that front. I would like to know, however, if this is a simple adjustment that I can make so I don't have to deal with sending the gun out.

Keep in mind that I'm a handgun newbie. I have done a basic field stripping of this gun (removed grip and cylinder for cleaning) but that's about it.

Thanks!

Tom

 

[EddieCoyle]

Tom,

Remove the grips and check the screw at the bottom front of the grip frame. This should be screwed all the way in. Many times, people will loosen this screw in an effort to lighten the trigger pull. It also lightens the hammer blow to the primers.

 

[O/U]

Eddie,

Thanks very much! I will try this.

Tom

 

[TY43215]

First thing to check is the strain screw for the main spring. If it is the least bit loose it can cause the misfires you mention. Next would be the ammo. If the primers are high, they will seat on the first strike and ignite on the second.

After that there are many variables that need to be taken into account. Try a box of Winchester and see how it works after you check the strain screw. Then report back.

If you are anywhere near Cape Cod, I would be glad to look at it.

 

[O/U]

Wow, guys. That screw was backed waaaay out. I've tightened it all the way into the frame now. The trigger doesn't feel any heavier to me. I'll let you know if this solved my problem once I get some more trigger time.

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?

Thanks for the help!

Tom

 

[Lugnut]

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?

Thanks for the help!

Tom

Yes but grind the screw not just losen it (get spare and go slow)... but as you've seen... if you grind the screw too much you get light primer hits!

My advice: use it the way it comes stock... with the screw tight though!


EDIT: I would never use a modified gun for any defensive use.. but that's just me.

 

[drgrant]

Another thing to watch out for is the screw may have a tendency
to back itself out due to recoil. I've found on screws that
were loose that adding a dab of weak-grade loctite helped out a
lot. Otherwise the problem sometimes will eventually recur once
the screw backs out far enough.

-Mike

 

[RKG]

Wow, guys. That screw was backed waaaay out. I've tightened it all the way into the frame now. The trigger doesn't feel any heavier to me. I'll let you know if this solved my problem once I get some more trigger time.

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?

Thanks for the help!

Tom

Only the double action pull (which includes cocking the hammer).

 

[jhrosier]

.....

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?
...

NO! This would never be done by a professional gunsmith.

The correct way to lighten the trigger pull on a S&W is to first clean, polish (as required), and then properly lube the action parts.
For range/target use only, the rebound and hammer springs can be replaced with slightly lighter ones. Reliablity may suffer.
The S&W revolvers are designed and built, when the chips are down, to reliably ignite the hardest primers.

Jack

 

[icyclefar]

Sounds like your loose screw might be your answer, but for whatever it's worth, I would not run my "reliability" test with Dick's UMC ammo.

Make sure you test with whatever you plan on using for defensive ammo!

 

[EddieCoyle]

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?

Dry fire the crap out of it. Seriously.

 

[TY43215]

Wow, guys. That screw was backed waaaay out. I've tightened it all the way into the frame now. The trigger doesn't feel any heavier to me. I'll let you know if this solved my problem once I get some more trigger time.

Is this a legitimate way to lighten trigger pull?

Thanks for the help!

Tom

No it is NOT a legitimate way to lighten the pull. It does the job, but also has a negative impact on the single action pull making it dangerous.

Revolver actions can be modified to work well for carry and made even lighter for competition. It is all in how much you know and what you have tools to do.

 

[Dan S]

No it is NOT a legitimate way to lighten the pull. It does the job, but also has a negative impact on the single action pull making it dangerous.

Revolver actions can be modified to work well for carry and made even lighter for competition. It is all in how much you know and what you have tools to do.

It's not the way to get a reliable action, but, it is sooo commonly done.

 

[O/U]

Well, I really just want to return this thing to factory setup, which I think I've done with your help. I don't know enough yet to have a preference.

I find the double action pull to feel just fine, if a little stagey. Should I be feeling "stops" as I pull through the stroke?

The single action pull is like breaking glass. Perfect!

 

[Dan S]

Well, I really just want to return this thing to factory setup, which I think I've done with your help. I don't know enough yet to have a preference.

I find the double action pull to feel just fine, if a little stagey. Should I be feeling "stops" as I pull through the stroke?

The single action pull is like breaking glass. Perfect!

Is the "stage" toward the end of the trigger pull? If it is, it's the hand sliding off the rachet. Otherwise it's just the machining marks that you're feeling.