Excessive Wear on M&P After 1000rds?

P

PigPknHeat

Joined
Dec 22, 2012
Messages
451
Likes
18
Feedback: 1 / 0 / 0
I would like to get some feedback on whether or not you guys think that the wear on my M&P Shield 40 seems a bit excessive. I have never had one malfunction aside from the mag dropping issue which was corrected and I think completely non related. I have put just over 1000rds through it and have kept it very clean and lubed with froglube. Looking at the slide blocks you can see where it rubs against the slide which is normal but to me this seems like a lot. If you look close at the pics below you can see that there is a slight groove being cut in the blocks. Infact if you were to use your fingernail feel it you would feel that the block is getting worn away ever so slightly, its like a tiny step down. Is that normal?

Thanks guys...

BackBlock1000rds_zps0c31b0f5.jpg

BackBlock1000rds2_zps294fab57.jpg

FrontBlock1000rds_zpsbc862361.jpg

FrontBlock1000rds2_zps1adc696a.jpg
 
After taking these pics I admit I am loosing faith in the Froglube. So... what do you think about there wear through? Would that be normal of a gun with a high round count or is this just straight up excessive?
 
Looks normal to me. I just went and checked out my receivers. 1st one has about 10,000 rounds through it and has some decent gouging through it, 2nd one has about 2,000 rounds and about half of the gouging as the 1st. The 3rd one is only a couple hundred rounds and has very little wear. However, the 3rd one also struggles to auto forward when a mag is inserted. M&P's need to break in a little and this just looks like break in. Even if the front block and rear block wear down to the point where it affects accuracy (mine all shoot 2" groups at 25 yards with a rest and KKM barrels) I imagine that wouldn't be for another 10,000 rounds. And then you're talking about 40 bucks in parts. I wouldn't worry about it, worst case scenario, S&W will most likely replace them if you want to send the gun in.

Edit: See that this is a shield, mine are all FS M&P 40's. However, they're not incredibly different and I still wouldn't lose sleep over it provided the gun is running and accurate.
 
Last edited:
that's what im hoping, its just break in... its my only M&P and I think I might have a little OCD when it comes to this stuff. I think I'll be switching lubes anyway just to be safe and go with something with a little bit more proven reliability. The thing that made me go with Froglube is that its nice on a carry piece because it will not get all over your clothes and stuff. thanks.
 
I've used CLP on every firearm for cleaning and lubing in the last 2 years. Whether it's tight fitting guns or sloppier guns like the M&P or 22LR semi autos. CLP does the job everytime. I focus more of my energy on the actual cleaning and scrubbing with the brush. After the wipe down, light coating of oil and call it a day (by light coating, I mean if you push your finger onto the piece of metal you applied the oil, you will see a fingerprint in the oil, but if you tilt the gun up, the oil will not run down and go anywhere) Only place I may add a little extra oil is in the frame rails on the slide, but I'll rack it a couple times and then wipe away the excess with a paper towel.
 
That wear doesnt mean anything until you measure it. Find some calipers and measure the worn area vs the unworn areas and that will give you an idea of how bad it is.
Post your findings and between me (an engineer) and gunsmiths on the forum we should be able to give opinions on how badly this is worn
 
Use grease. My Full-size has similar wear patterns, but maybe 1/4 of the actual wear. Plus, grease traps a ****-ton of powder residue, so cleaning is a breeze.
 
I noticed wear similar to this on a Ruger that i own. Honestly, its not that big of a deal. If the firearm fails from normal wear and tear, most companies will fix or repair them free of charge.

I will not use froglube. I honestly dont trust it. I primarily use grease, especially if its really hot outside. I use oil, slip2000 ewl for my 22. I find that grease slows down my 22.
 
mine has atleast a couple thousand rounds through it

and i know for a fact it has about 1k worth of hallows of different types since ive had it. and i have the same wear no gouges though and im not too worried
 
Looks like the wear is just the paint missing, you remember what friction does to metal right? When two pieces of painted metal rub together something is bound to give, and it's always the paint! Do you own an AR by chance, look at the shell deflector if you have one, you should also have paint missing from that spot too!

Charles.
 
NewGunGuy said:
Looks like the wear is just the paint missing, you remember what friction does to metal right? When two pieces of painted metal rub together something is bound to give, and it's always the paint! Do you own an AR by chance, look at the shell deflector if you have one, you should also have paint missing from that spot too!

Charles.
Click to expand...


Definatly more than just the paint missing. Look closer.
 
I used Froglube on a (new to me) Glock 27. After the 2nd time shooting it (200ish rounds), it cleaned up with a rag, bore stayed clean and I just lubed it up again. No excessive wear noted.
It looks like your M&P has just seated itself-my M&P45 rails looked like that after 500 rounds or so-using MPro 7. I wouldn't worry. It should have some wear after all those rounds. It's a mechanical tool-mechanical tools wear.
 
I have some of the same on my 9mm not as much that you are seeing. I use slipstream and or CPL.

2-3K down the pipe
 
If I'm gonna shoot a couple of hundred or more I'll lightly grease the slide guides with Slip 2000 EWL grease and oil the barrel with EWL oil. Otherwise EWL oil on the lube points.
 
ok so I went Lube shoping tonight and showed my shield to one of the guys at Pullman... he suggested I try something he learned recently, mix a bearing grease with some average gun oil/lube. I went to the local home depot and picked up some Lucas "Red n Tacky" and some Lucas "X-Tra heavy Duty". I mixed both with either rem oil or hope's #9 and now I have 4 different "Oilly Greases" to try.

I am thinking that the Red n Tacky with the Rem Oil is gonna be the winner.

Any one have any experience with this method? I might try to snag a spoon full of some grease at work tomorrow we have lots of high grade grease there.
 
Why not just use Hoppe's oil? Or Rem oil? I am not understanding the mixing of 5 different kinds of things, to see what works best.
 
Rem Oil seems to dry up...

Hoppes Ive never tried... but seems thin and not for heavy duty use.

It was suggested by someone who was taught in a gunsmith class (and seemed reasonable) and cheap enough to try so I just might try. The final product after mixing seems very nice.

I have froglubed my AR but have only had a 200rds through it and will not let that wear from bad lube happen to that too. Just looking for the best I guess.
 
PigPknHeat said:
Rem Oil seems to dry up...

Hoppes Ive never tried... but seems thin and not for heavy duty use.
Click to expand...

Yeah, neither work well. RemOil burns off, runs off very easily. Hoppes is OK, but there is better lube for a lot less. Try Mobil1 for oil or slide glide for grease

Both are the only 2 that I have used that are still there even after long strings in the sun. Shooting were the gun is too hot to touch and starts breaking down red loctite. Both clean up very easily too
 
Seafoam works great. I use it on my shotgun to clean and lube. and It also works good to clean all the carbon out of my mosin .
you can add some to the gas in your car to break down the carbon in your motor also if you don't have cats in the exhaust . Or spray some in the intake if you do.

I use frog lube or mpro seven in my semi autos. I get a weird reaction to oil based products so that's the main reason I use that stuff. Plus I know a frog lube dealer so I get it at cost .
 
Supermoto said:
Yeah, neither work well. RemOil burns off, runs off very easily. Hoppes is OK, but there is better lube for a lot less. Try Mobil1 for oil or slide glide for grease

Both are the only 2 that I have used that are still there even after long strings in the sun. Shooting were the gun is too hot to touch and starts breaking down red loctite. Both clean up very easily too
Click to expand...

I agree. During the summer I use grease on the rails. When it gets colder, the viscosity of the grease increases, so I switch to Mobil One synthetic. I prefer grease, because it stays in place, but when the temperature starts dropping, Mobil One works quite well.
 
I like some stuff I got from Wilson combat its one of their more viscous lubes but a little goes a long way and it been good so far
 
tried the Red and Tacky grease mixed with Hoppe's Gun oil/lube today on my AR and my M&P. Both worked great and still had grease left on the contact points. The grease thinned with oil felt great too. I could defiantly feel a difference from the FL. Stuff is messy though...
 

Similar threads

Max 9, P365,Hellcat, Shield, 43X
Replies
6
Views
277
In God We Trust
In God We Trust
  • Poll
1st Gen Shield 9 - Sell or bubba?
Replies
29
Views
420
PappyM3
PappyM3
What shroud looks better on my Suomi M31?
Replies
3
Views
84
yanquidog
Y
New Member Introduction and Seeking Advice on First Gun Purchase
2 3
Replies
68
Views
2K
je25ff
je25ff
Modifying preban uzi mags for AR9 colt lower
Replies
1
Views
70
Rick O'Shea
Rick O'Shea
Back
Top Bottom