so in hunting for a new bow, i was told by a salesperson at KTP that I should look for a bow with a 70# draw weight, as this bow would have better resale in the future. Can anyone confirm this? Im going to be getting a Hoyt Spyder 30 that has a 60# max draw weight
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Draw Weight on a bow
- Thread starter Lord0fWar
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I think that's his personal opinion, you don't need to draw anywhere near 70# to effectively pass through a deer. I pulled 70# on my old Hoyt Lazertec when I was younger because I could. 20 years later, I pull 60# on my new Hoyt CRX and its a pleasure to shoot, easy to hold at full draw and is plenty fast enough. Buy that new Spyder, you wont regret it! I almost purchased that one over the CRX but couldnt justify the extra $$$.
60#s is fine unless you want more.... Whatever you do find another tech who has a clue what he is talking about because that guy certainly doesnt...
Go to either ArcheryPlus in Spencer Ma, Reedys in Middleboro or TeePee archery which is in Acton Mass. All excellent knowlegeble shops.
Go to either ArcheryPlus in Spencer Ma, Reedys in Middleboro or TeePee archery which is in Acton Mass. All excellent knowlegeble shops.
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kengog
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+1 What he said... All excellent shops.
ChevyGuy91
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Reedy's is awesome, my gf bought her bow there during the grand opening of his new store. I was so impressed that I will likely make a side trip next time I go down to visit family for a bow of my own.
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I had a bow set at 70lbs on my cheapie Parker, now I am set at 55lbs on a Hoyt Carbon Element and it is just as fast as my Parker. Cam design, draw length, etc. are going to have impact on the speed as well as draw weight. As long as your in the higher 200's fps I think draw weight doesn't matter for most hunting situations.
Not entirely accurate. You can be in the higher 200's with a light draw weight bow and super light arrow and carry little KE (and possibly poor penetration) to the target or you can be low to mid 200's with a heavy arrow and get better KE and better penetration when hitting something hard like bone...
I prefer heavier draw weight and heavy arrows. I think hunters should not shoot super light arrows at all, especially with large cut mechanical broadheads. More KE = more penetration. Shoot the upper range of draw weight that you are comfortable with and lean torwards heavier arrows. You will be happy when you pull a shot a little bit on a deer and smack a leg bone on the way into the chest cavity...
60# is enough to kill any animal in North America. A well placed shot wins all day, every day.
resale value is better? what a dingbat! Don't listen to the guy...as others have said get one that fits you...don't worry about resale you can always find someone to buy it when/if you sell it. Get what you like.
cockpitbob
NES Member
Shot placement is everything. Get a weight you are comfortable with.
Many bows have a wide adjustment range. My Matthews Mission Craze goes from 27lbs to 70lbs. When I got it I was a new archer so I set it light and gradually built up to being comfortable with heavier weights.
Many bows have a wide adjustment range. My Matthews Mission Craze goes from 27lbs to 70lbs. When I got it I was a new archer so I set it light and gradually built up to being comfortable with heavier weights.
60 pounds is perfect,with a hunting arrow,you can get the
Bow to shoot 270 plus.
Anything heavier than that you run the risk of hurting yourself.
There's no need.
Bow to shoot 270 plus.
Anything heavier than that you run the risk of hurting yourself.
There's no need.
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Like others said, 60#. You can hunt anything at 60# successfully in North America.
cockpitbob
NES Member
And leaglly you can hunt with 40# in MA...but I wouldn't.
As Ski Patrol said, don't run the risk of huring yourself. I did and it took 5 months, 2 cortizone shots and a bunch of PT to undo.
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I think you'd be safe at 55# too
I know the op,talk to him a bunch.
60 is the number.
Plus selling a 70# bow will be hard.you will have
To find someone who wants it.
60 is the number.
Plus selling a 70# bow will be hard.you will have
To find someone who wants it.
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I bought a bow that I could adjust the draw weight & length on my own, w/o tools. Originally set at 70 lb., I cranked it down to 61 lb. Not that I couldn't make a smooth draw with it, but after sitting in a freezing tree stand for hours, my draw was no longer so smooth.
This!! If you're buying a bow already thinking about what you'll get for it when you sell it don't buy it. Save up for the one you really want. as for draw weight get what you can draw and hold when you're muscles are cold, anything more and you're going to hate it when you miss an opportunity because you were strugling to draw it back. I draw 65# because I'm young enough that I can, my 70 year old father went to 55# a few years ago because his should was going to hell.
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Fair enough, but I have been using light carbon fiber arrows with light mechanical broadheads (100 grains 2 blade rage) and on the two I have taken with my bow at 55lbs I had 1 go clean through with deer going about 70yds before expiring and the other hit the leg bone and the deer expired at 80yds from PO impact with arrow still in. I think the sharp narrow edges and expansion on the Rage rips the hell out of anything even with less KE. Now, I do have a 30 inch draw so that helps speed.
I'd like to know what you consider a light arrow.
29" draw, 525 grain arrow including the 100 grain NAP spitfire mechanical, 3 blades, 1 3/4 cut radius travelling at 285 fps.
93 ft/lbs of KE.
Blew through this bucks shoulder at 40 yards and broke the leg on the offside and arrow shattered on a boulder behind where the deer was standing. Not where I was aiming exactly but glad for the excess KE to get the job done on a slightly errant shot.
If you can draw the extra weight comfortably the extra KE is excellent insurance in case of hitting bone...
93 ft/lbs of KE.
Blew through this bucks shoulder at 40 yards and broke the leg on the offside and arrow shattered on a boulder behind where the deer was standing. Not where I was aiming exactly but glad for the excess KE to get the job done on a slightly errant shot.
If you can draw the extra weight comfortably the extra KE is excellent insurance in case of hitting bone...
Under 425 grains or so...
I went from 380 grains to 480 grains for this years season. I'll never shoot a lighter arrow again. Sure I lost some speed, but in return I have more KE, forward momentum, a better FOC, and a VERY quiet bow.
Draw length plays just about as much into it as the weight does. If you're only pulling 26" like I am then you want the extra weight. If you;re pulling 31" then you would be find shooting 50#.
Every inch of draw length roughly equals about 10# on the weight. So If I'm pulling 60# at 26" my arrow has about as much energy as someone shooting much lower # but drawing 30".
Having said that there are youth hunters out there drawing 26" at 40# who are hunting and putting more meat in the freezer than I have thus far. So like BJake said - shot placement is more important.
Every inch of draw length roughly equals about 10# on the weight. So If I'm pulling 60# at 26" my arrow has about as much energy as someone shooting much lower # but drawing 30".
Having said that there are youth hunters out there drawing 26" at 40# who are hunting and putting more meat in the freezer than I have thus far. So like BJake said - shot placement is more important.
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Put me in the lite arrow category then. I clock in at 415. I draw 26" so when my arrows are cut they lose a lot of weight. I could go with a heavier broadhead but it would fire up my FOC.
Being 5'4" sucks sometimes...
Not as much as you think. My arrows are at 14.28% FOC, with 125 slick trick mags.
Last arrows were 9.2% FOC with 100 grain heads, and 11.3% with 125 grain heads.
FOC is not a bad thing.
Last arrows were 9.2% FOC with 100 grain heads, and 11.3% with 125 grain heads.
FOC is not a bad thing.
