Cleaning with hoppes 9 or ballistol?

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Dave6

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I have been cleaning my revolver with hoppe's 9 but some people say BALLISTOL is better. what are the pro and cons?
Is there any risk in using hoppes'9? i heard some rumor that hoppes 9 could damage metal if left on to long and not cleaned off properly but i doubt that . the assertion does worry me slightly but i dont really buy it.
I heard BALLISTOL works as a oil and cleaner.
 
For cleaning I am a big fan of Ballistol, however I will say I cough a bit when I use it. As for using it as a lubricant, it depends on the firearm. On my Glock and SR9c I will use it but I found that my SR1911 did not care for it so I switched with that firearm to TW25 B. Basically if it needs a good amount of lube I use the TW25 B, polymer gets the Ballistol.
 
I use Ballistol as a cleaner. I used to use Hoppes #9, but found that Ballistol was just as effective, and easier on my respiratory system. For really caked on fouling in the barrel, I just spray a good amount in there and let it sit for about 20 minutes before running a patch through.
 
I used ballistol once to clean a very dirty 10/22. If I remember correctly, it was like cleaning my rifle with vegetable oil. It didn't dissolve or breakdown any crud. It made a friggen mess and I never used it again.
 
Hoppes 9 does not damage metal if left on. If that was true every gun in my safe would be ruined. To the contrary.....all my guns are rusy free look amazing and function well. There is a reason that product has been around for so long! Also am i the only one that loves the smell of #9?
 
Hopped #9 will damage a Nickel plated gun. It will react with the underlying copper and cause separation of the plating. I like the smell of #9 but I stopped using it years ago in favor of less toxic cleaners like MPro 7 and Slip 2000.


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Yeah I just use m-pro 7 and for frame internals I use Gunscrubber to blast crap out. Then coat them with some Hornady one shot cleaner and dry lube. Works great as a lube and protectant and its dry so it doesn't attract fouling etc.

For really nasty bores, I'll use that foaming copper remover or Hoppes 9.

If you have a stainless revolver, I highly recommend a birch wood casey lead remover and polishing cloth. Works amazingly well.
 
hoppes 9 and ballistol are very different.

ballistol is a mixture of organic alcohols. hoppes is petroleum based. personally i don't use hoppes 9 on anything.
for revolvers, ballistol is excellent....it's all i use. no need for any lubricant afterwards.

for semi-autos, i clean with ballistol then dry and lubricate with either mil-com TW-25b or slip2000 EWL.
for rifles i clean with either ballistol or CLP depending on which area, then lube with either lithium grease or slip2000 EWG.

just my current system i'm sure others have excellent methods too.

- - - Updated - - -

jpdopes said:
Hopped #9 will damage a Nickel plated gun. It will react with the underlying copper and cause separation of the plating. I like the smell of #9 but I stopped using it years ago in favor of less toxic cleaners like MPro 7 and Slip 2000.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

^^this exactly.
 
bought Ballistol thinking I would try something new. Used it a few times and went back to No. 9. Like others have said, it's like cleaning with vegetable oil. I bet it works well for neutralizing black powder but it does nothing for copper fouling. I'm willing to bet is "preserving" qualities are minimal at best.
 
I usually clean with CLP for convenience. If it is really dirty, then I'll use some hoppes to help get the carbon off. If the gun needs lube I usually use Mobil 1
 
Maybe someone in this thread can chime in. What would be the best/safest general cleaner for cerakote? Just acquired my first riffle with that finish.
 
I started with #9 and Remington oil. Bought CLP to use on long guns, especially Mosins. Bought in to the Froglube hype, used it for a year or two on everything.

Switched carry guns to my xD45, which had been cleaned a few times with Froglube. It was sticky, gummy, felt weird. After shooting it was worse. Cycled fine, shot fine, just felt like it had a film all over. Cleaned it with #9 and rem oil again, same for the pair of GP100'S I shot yesterday. I'm done with Froglube, I'll be transitioning back to what worked for a hundred or so years as I shoot and clean.

Anybody want some Froglube?
 
Froglube has two varieties the solvent and the CLP for a reason. The CLP (like most non-toxic cleaners) doesn't remove copper easily or petroleum buildup hence their solvent variety. The CLP itself is supposed to be used on warmed/heated metal (leave you gun in the sun for 10 minutes) and wiped down until there is only a thin coating. Anything more than that and it gums up (the wax like film) when cold.

Lead removal cloths shouldn't be used on blued finishes as they can remove some forms of bluing.
 
I use both, ballistol for lube, cleaning barrels, and exterior protection. #9 cut with some mineral spirits for cleaning everything else. I never had a problem with ballistol cleaning the barrel interior, but at the same time I clean after every use so they don't get too dirty. I do a final cleaning of parts that should never see any oil with some rubbing alcohol.
 
S&W advises against using Hoppes #9 on newer blued guns. It can damage the finish. I believe they recommend Hoppes Elite. Ive never had a problem with any of my older guns, Hoppes works fine. I've started using M-7 Pro more lately and it seems to work fine, then Breakfree for oil.
 
What do people think about those ultrasonic cleaning devices? I'm thinking about getting one and using it for really small areas like cleaning the bolt for an MSR, recoil springs, or even pistol barrels.
 
Hoppes #9 to clean the really dirty stuff, BreakFree to clean off the Hoppes, clean cloths to wipe it down, Rem oil to lube the parts that need it, silicon cloth to wipe off the fingerprints, gunwax on the slides occasionally.

Lots of rags, lots of Q-tips, copper brushes as needed. Bright light, patience and the knowledge that these are guns, not precision swiss watches - they'll run when they're dirty.
 
Last edited:
BreakFree CLP for me for everything. I'll use #9 on truly disgusting guns, but always always always end up cleaning the #9 off and using CLP before I put it back in the safe.
 
I see absolutely no reason to use lubricating oil for cleaning; not as effective as a solvent and too expensive. The "superlubes" I see on the market are also a great way to waste money, but their ads arre great entertainment.

I keep it simple and cheap. Brake parts or carburetor cleaner to clean the internals and synthetic motor oil for lubrication. I will, however, spend some $ on bore cleaners where its really needed.
 
MachineHead said:
What do people think about those ultrasonic cleaning devices? I'm thinking about getting one and using it for really small areas like cleaning the bolt for an MSR, recoil springs, or even pistol barrels.
Click to expand...

I bought one and used it once. Tried to clean my CZ Shadow receiver whole rather than detail disassemble it. The cleaner worked but also removed some of the paint on the frame. I think soaking parts in a tank (50 BMG ammo can) of mineral spirits will work just as well for a lot less $.
 
Numbah 9! Have always used it, never had a need to look elsewhere. Besides, I love the smell of it. My basement smells of it, and my garage smells like gas from the lawn mower. Two great scents from my youth I still enjoy every time I come across them.
 
Ballistol works great as a cleaner. I use it and then lube with Mil-Comm TW25B/TW2500. As others have said, Ballistol smells like ass but is a good product.
 
I have only used Hoppes 9 for as long as I have owned guns and I've used it on all types of guns. I think it is a good cleaner. I also use some of their lubricants too. I like them, they do a good job for the price and you can find them pretty much in all gun related stores.
Just for kicks I will use Ballistol just so I can have something to compare Hoppes 9 with.
 
I use ballistol on all my guns (M&Ps and SR1911) for cleaning and lube. If it's really dirty I have Rem bore cleaner as a back up.
 

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