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Do I really need to use a torque wrench when tightening the barrel nut on my AR upper? Or is it fine to just tighten it to the point at which the gas tube lines up properly?
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You can get a torque wrench on Amazon for $35. Just buy one.
everyone should own one whether it's for working on an AR or for working on anything else that requires something torqued to a particular specification.
It's really not super critical. Most people seem to want to over-tighten them. Use some good moly grease, put the nut on so that it's snug, and then tighten to the next hole. You'll be fine.
This.
I've re-barreled my AR's maybe a half-dozen times and never used a torque wrench.
This. There is so much space between the holes for lining up the gas tube, that the torque value is moot.
Also: A torque wrench is made and calibrated to be used with a socket. When used on an AR15 armatures wrench, the leverage is different, and the torque value will not be exactly what the wrench is set for.
You don't need a torque wrench on an AR Barrel. After the barrel nut gets snug and you have to put some effort in obtaining the first hole that lines up with the gas tube then your good. If you don't have to put any effort in to reach the first hole then you go to the 2nd hole and your done.
Mac
I didn't use any grease on my barrel nut is that bad?
I didn't use any grease on my barrel nut is that bad?
I did torque it down with a torque wrench though.
I didn't use any grease on my barrel nut is that bad?
I did torque it down with a torque wrench though.
Use a torque wrench, also not all barrel nuts have gas tube holes to align
There's a simple formula that corrects this. But a torque wrench and do it right. There are torque specs for a reason. I've seen two Differant home "builds" with hand tight barrel nuts mid match, they should have used torque specs and proper tools assembling there rifles.
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Hmm which brand would this be? I have built a few AR's and cut down a bunch of barrels for people and have yet to come across a barrel nut without a gas tube hole.
Mac
You really should use a bit of moly grease. Aluminum recovers and steel barrels should have something between them to prevent seizing. Ever try to get an aluminum rim off of a steel hub after it's been on there a while?
While that's true, anodized aluminum doesn't have that problem. The anodized surface is quite immune to galling. Of course, if the anodizing gets scratched (which it will a bit during installation) that's different. I used anti seize.
There aren't many wheels that are anodized.
Sorry but that statement is wrong Dry anodized aluminum against dry anodized aluminum is the absolute worst when it comes to galling. I use to often have threaded things hard anodized and *once* made the mistake of "dry" fitting a pair. I had to soak the parts in oil in order to get them apart.
Mac
Fair enough, though I thought we were talking about anodized aluminum against steel.
Fair enough, though I thought we were talking about anodized aluminum against steel.
Most of the Barrel nuts I have used have been aluminum(YHM). I don't know the outcome on steel as I always put s very light coate of grease before assembly.
Mac