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AR15 Build, how is it done ?
- Thread starter nordic alien
- Start date
unless you are looking for an unserialized lower, and have pretty good tooling to finish the lower, IMHO a stripped lower is easier to build off of.
If this is your first build I'd go that way.
The lower is not hard to build, basic hand tools and punches, just do it in an area where you can find the springs that will go bouncing off into space on you, it will make it easier to crawl around on your hands and knees to find them.
You will, if you live in MA have to make the build MA compliant.
Before you build, no matter what road you take, just have a good idea of what you are going to put on it for an upper so you can get the right buffer to match it
If this is your first build I'd go that way.
The lower is not hard to build, basic hand tools and punches, just do it in an area where you can find the springs that will go bouncing off into space on you, it will make it easier to crawl around on your hands and knees to find them.
You will, if you live in MA have to make the build MA compliant.
Before you build, no matter what road you take, just have a good idea of what you are going to put on it for an upper so you can get the right buffer to match it
Rick O'Shea
NES Member
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Spoon feed me please
Not so much the springs as the TINY detent pins that go on top of those springs. Especially the front take-down pin detent. I found that putting a tiny bit of gun grease (I used slide-glide) on the spring/pin helped keep it in place while struggling to get it seated.
Ya, I spent way too much time in the basement yesterday.
Mesatchornug
NES Member
Don't sell yourself short. Accept nothing less than to have it chewed up and regurgitated, like a baby bird.
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NES. The next-best thing to being raised by an angry, alchoholic parent.
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It's quite easy if you can follow along with a video
Brin747
NES Member
Find a video you like, there are dozens. Purchase the needed parts and a few basic tools. Get it done.
Once you do the first, you'll be surprised how easy it is, then the real fun starts.
Once you do the first, you'll be surprised how easy it is, then the real fun starts.
allen-1
NES Member
Completing an 80% lower isn't really very difficult - depending upon what tools / jigs you have and your abilities.
There are a couple of critical parts, (drilling the pin holes in the right places for example), but I've seen some truly horrible looking ones that function.
Assembling the parts is very easy.
As @appraiser said, perhaps start with a "stripped lower", which is a 100% completed lower, treated as a firearm EVERYWHERE but MA. Then you're not doing machining, just assembly.
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The real question is if the juice is actually worth the squeeze. There is significant outlay for tooling--but if money isn't that much of an obstacle and you actually enjoy that sort of challenge/work, then go for it. Honestly, thoguh--it is far faster/easier to just go buy a quality stripped lower and assemble it with the minimal tools required.
There are very good videos on Youtube taking you step by step through the process.
Here is a basic overview of the 80% process, as presented by 5D Tactical.
Here is a video about assembling the jig from the box.
There are also actually helpful firearms boards where guys share their lessons learned (can you imagine?) and offer sage advice about cutting lubricants, tips for milling bit longevity, etc. and other time-saving advice so you don't have to re-invent the wheel.
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Mesatchornug
NES Member
I'd love to know when that's happened. Tell me more.
Mesatchornug
NES Member
those answers are here. most are in the DIY subforum, where folks talk through the entire process.
Coda
NES Member
That didn't take long, only 5 minutes in.....
So Maura has been on here for over 10 years with 1200 posts before she decides to ask "The Question"?
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those answers are here. most are in the DIY subforum, where folks talk through the entire process.
Link?
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This happened after the Pulse nightclub shooting, to help familiarize the LGBTQ community with firearms.
Which is when the Pink Pistols began holding monthly meetups on Saturdays at the club to help familiarize new (LGBTQ) shooters with firearms/firearms ownership/firearms safety.
Club Calendar:
Back 40 - Pink Pistols (range remains open to general membership)
WhenSat, January 13, 2pm – 6pm
Description Aaron Grossman
I assumed the ammo donation was still in the Club budget.
Maybe not, though.
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Mesatchornug
NES Member
I'm aware of the events and their history. There have never been ammo donations to the Pink Pistols events in the club's budget. There is, and continues to be, budget to support the events that HSC hosts.
I'll admit, I'm not sure what that has to do with someone coming in here and demanding explanations on stuff that's been endlessly answered and can be found with a simple search.
But here, we go - digested and returned to those who lack the ability to search on their own:
DIY forum:
M16/AR-15 manuals:
M16 and AR15 manuals
All files are in PDF format and zipped. To get Adobe Acrobat Reader click here. FM 3-22x9 Rifle Marksmanship M16A1, M16A2/3, M16A4, AND M4 CARBINE TM 9-1005-249-23P Technical Manual (including repair parts and special tools list)
www.northeastshooters.com
A thread on texts about AR-15s
Best Basic AR book
A buddy of mine down in N Carolina picked up his first AR just before this recent madness. I've got several books on the AR myself but what would be a good book to recommend for someone who is a new AR owner?
www.northeastshooters.com
literal step-by-step on building an AR (member forum, as mentioned up-thread)
Golddiggie
NES Member
"Next-best"?? Damn, people are slacking...
There's been plenty of posts about putting EBR's together. I also cringe every time someone either posts up about using the router setup, or asks about it. Luckily I've not had to go down that route (got milling machine, will make). Buy complete lower and upper and slap them together and you're really just assembling them. Even a stripped lower (with complete upper) is just assembling (minor parts for the LPK). Building the upper from parts is pretty easy IF you choose wisely. Some basic hand tools are needed for upper assembly, including a torque wrench (and tool for whatever handguard barrel nut you picked). Of course, you can easily find inexpensive uppers fully ready to be slapped onto a lower these days.
A clovis pin makes putting in the front detent pretty easy (found at your local hardware store). Lots of lowers also come with the rear takedown hole threaded to make things easier. Or just get a 4-40 tap and set screw and do it yourself (if needed). I won't buy a lower that doesn't have a threaded bolt catch pin. Long ago (for my first builds) I used the taped vice grip compressing trick. Easier to use a lower that's threaded for that install (makes changing things later much easier). Don't use a pin punch to put that in (PITA IMO).
As I mentioned, all of this info is pretty easily found either in posts in other threads, or on the tube of you.
The kicker is the 80%, once it is a complete lower those are a yuge help.I'm aware of the events and their history. There have never been ammo donations to the Pink Pistols events in the club's budget. There is, and continues to be, budget to support the events that HSC hosts.
I'll admit, I'm not sure what that has to do with someone coming in here and demanding explanations on stuff that's been endlessly answered and can be found with a simple search.
But here, we go - digested and returned to those who lack the ability to search on their own:
DIY forum:
M16/AR-15 manuals:
M16 and AR15 manuals
All files are in PDF format and zipped. To get Adobe Acrobat Reader click here. FM 3-22x9 Rifle Marksmanship M16A1, M16A2/3, M16A4, AND M4 CARBINE TM 9-1005-249-23P Technical Manual (including repair parts and special tools list)
A thread on texts about AR-15s
Best Basic AR book
A buddy of mine down in N Carolina picked up his first AR just before this recent madness. I've got several books on the AR myself but what would be a good book to recommend for someone who is a new AR owner?
literal step-by-step on building an AR (member forum, as mentioned up-thread)
Mesatchornug
NES Member
fair. I'm sure there are threads and videos about building 80s if one digs a minute.
It also assumes the OP actually means what he said, and isn't (like previous posters) confused on the difference between stripped and unfinished lowers. To be fair, that confusion isn't even entirely their fault, but a modicum of research would go a long way in looking like they're acting in good faith.
![[slap]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/025.gif "Slap [slap]")
Mesatchornug
NES Member
I hear you. Just saying, we've had similar posts from folks saying "what's it take to build from an 80%?" that turned out to actually mean from a stripped lower.The only reason i pointed that out was the op.
![[laugh]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/012.gif "Laugh [laugh]")
Maybe OP means he wants to make chips today. Maybe he wants to tell us how not gay he is. Or maybe he means that he just wants to do more than press two pins across the thickness of his rifle.
Without a little more info in his first post, our answers remain based on assumptions.
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I guess what I'M not sure about is why the Aspergers types on this board have such a hard time being helpful.
They post on here EVERY DAY ALL F*CKEN DAY LONG but can't be bothered to actually be constructive with the knowlege they have accrued.
Just seems f*cken retarded to me.
But you do you.
Golddiggie
NES Member
I recall being in a local gun store (in NH) when a customer came in with a lower he'd been working on for HOURS that was still not right. IIRC he was using the drill press method (IMO, steaming pile). He had put in 4+ hours and the pocket still wouldn't accept a FCG. It looked like hot garbage too. Compared with how I've seen how things look after using a milling machine.
Also keep in mind, that the side holes won't accept being sloppy. The first lower I completed I was using my floor drill press and things were not perfectly true. As a result, the hammer/trigger pins were not aligned properly and simply failed to work. Another lower I completed has issues with those pin holes where I cannot use a drop in trigger pack (slightly out of alignment). Using a milling machine that's properly trammed means that the hole placement is correct and true. Also, for best results you should drill and then ream those holes (including the selector hole) to get them both correct size AND round. Drill bits are not perfectly round by nature. They might look it to the old mark 1 eyeball, but they're not. Add to that potential chuck wobble (even a fraction of a thousandth is enough) and you should get the idear.
IF you don't care about having things fully to spec, then go ahead and use the router and hand drill method. Just know, going in, that you could end up with a piece of scrap metal. Which comes down to buying more than just one 80% lower for your first go at it.
I eventually destroyed the FUBAR lower (the one I could never use) via a few cuts with a chop saw. The other is going to get replaced fairly soon once my Cerakote setup is online. Not sure if I'll destroy that one too, or keep it as a low grade 'spare'. Since the replacement lower is in it's raw state. Which brings to mind how an anodized lower WILL eat your bits pretty fast. I've seen end mills show effect after eating through just one or two anodized lowers (needing to be sharpened, or replaced).
BTW, I'll only buy billet (raw) 80% lowers. Raw because I can coat them at home. Billet due to features typically found on those. Some forged have the large trigger guard and threaded holes (rear take-down detent hole and bolt catch). I usually just like the looks of the billet ones more. I even have a few still in box on a shelf.
Also keep in mind, that the side holes won't accept being sloppy. The first lower I completed I was using my floor drill press and things were not perfectly true. As a result, the hammer/trigger pins were not aligned properly and simply failed to work. Another lower I completed has issues with those pin holes where I cannot use a drop in trigger pack (slightly out of alignment). Using a milling machine that's properly trammed means that the hole placement is correct and true. Also, for best results you should drill and then ream those holes (including the selector hole) to get them both correct size AND round. Drill bits are not perfectly round by nature. They might look it to the old mark 1 eyeball, but they're not. Add to that potential chuck wobble (even a fraction of a thousandth is enough) and you should get the idear.
IF you don't care about having things fully to spec, then go ahead and use the router and hand drill method. Just know, going in, that you could end up with a piece of scrap metal. Which comes down to buying more than just one 80% lower for your first go at it.
I eventually destroyed the FUBAR lower (the one I could never use) via a few cuts with a chop saw. The other is going to get replaced fairly soon once my Cerakote setup is online. Not sure if I'll destroy that one too, or keep it as a low grade 'spare'. Since the replacement lower is in it's raw state. Which brings to mind how an anodized lower WILL eat your bits pretty fast. I've seen end mills show effect after eating through just one or two anodized lowers (needing to be sharpened, or replaced).
BTW, I'll only buy billet (raw) 80% lowers. Raw because I can coat them at home. Billet due to features typically found on those. Some forged have the large trigger guard and threaded holes (rear take-down detent hole and bolt catch). I usually just like the looks of the billet ones more. I even have a few still in box on a shelf.
