Anybody casting their own bullets?

[jhrosier]

I have recently started casting again, after a long break.
Fortunately, I still have most of my gear from many years ago.
I am concentrating on rifle bullets right now.

The cost of jacketed bullets has driven me back to the lead pot.

Also fortunately, I have forgotten most of what I used to think that I knew about casting, and have re-learned, both by reading books and hanging out on a couple of other forums.

My results have been very encouraging, so far.
I have shot a lot of groups right around 1" at 50 yards with a variety of rifles and have not had any problems with leading or any serious and completely unforseen accuracy problems.

I'm curious to know if there are any other bullet casters out there, and what calibers you are working with.

I've done .44 caliber bullets for the 10.4x38 Swiss and .30 caliber bullets for the .30-06, 7.5x55 and 30-30, as well as 8mm bullets for the 8x58mmRD (Swedish rolling block) recently. I will be making bullets for the .405 Winchester, .45-70, 7.62x54 and .375 H&H in the coming weeks.

Jack

 

[EddieCoyle]

I'm not casting but I'm going to start. Have you seen the prices for big (>400gr) .500 bullets?

Jack, what kind of lead pot do you use/recommend?

 

[jhrosier]

I'm not casting but I'm going to start. Have you seen the prices for big (>400gr) .500 bullets?

Breathtaking, isn't it? I will be casting for .45-70 and .375H&H, a little, but I intend to work more extensively with the medium bore (.30-.35 cal) to conserve my lead supply. Even the price of gas checks has gone crazy, $30-$40 per thousand (still a LOT cheaper than jacketed bullets though.)

Jack, what kind of lead pot do you use/recommend?

I am using an ancient Lyman #61 that I bought back in the '60s. It sucks down 1000 watts to keep 10 lbs of lead hot. I intend to replace it with a newer and more efficient pot this spring. I cast both with the bottom pour and the ladle, so will be looking for a bottom pour, which can handle both.
Lee makes two different bottom pour furnaces. One has the valve rod running through the pot at an angle and is difficult to use with a ladle and will not take a very large ingot easily. I will probably get the other. I will keep the old pot to melt scrap lead and try to keep the new one clean.
Lead pots run from about $50 to a couple of hundred dollars so it pays to shop around. I have not seen to much in the way of used ones but it wouldn't hurt to check evilbay.
As with any other aspect of handloading, the initial equipment costs will take a while to recover.

Jack

 

[Adam_MA]

What sort of velocities are you getting out of these rifle bullets?

 

[WVBob]

I have a 20 pound Lee bottom pour. I have used the dip and the small bottem pots and like the 20 pounder better.

I'm not casting but I'm going to start. Have you seen the prices for big (>400gr) .500 bullets?

If your going to cast a >400gr bullet, you WILL want a bottom pour. I do 305, 450 and 500gr for .45-70 and the ladle will start to cool quicker than I like.

 

[jhrosier]

What sort of velocities are you getting out of these rifle bullets?

I have not chronographed the .30s, but estimate around 1400fps.
The 8x58RD is shooting a 205 gr bullet at about the same speed and the 10.4x38 sends a 310 gr bullet out at right around 1300fps.

A .30 cal bullet at 1400-1600 fps used to be highly regarded as a 200 yard target load. It seems that just about any gun will shoot them into 1-2 moa with little wear and tear on either the gun or shooter.

With what has been learned about alloys, lubes, and loading techniques in the last few years, many shooters are getting velocities well above 2000 fps with cast bullets. I'm not ready to venture there yet. The mild loads shoot well and the bore usually appears spotlessly clean after 50 or more rounds.

Jack

 

[highlander]

I cast for everything but my 223 and right now have close to 30 different mold blocks mostly Redding/Saeco and RCBS. I picked up a "used " RCBS'furnace for $125. Iuse a mix of 50/50 ww and linotype. A fellow I work with ask me if I cast my own bullets I answered yes and asked if I'd be interested in some free lead I said sure and a few days later he showed up with 400 lbs of ww at a very good price ...FREE. I've been casting my own bullets for
25+ years. the list of bullets is quite long probably the most unusual is a 255 gr wadcutter for 45 Colt that I also us in my 45/70 as a "plinking" load

 

[Nickle]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

 

[jhrosier]

Highlander,
What are you using for a powder charge in the plinker?
I have a 12" Contender barrel in 45-70 that could use a little taming.

Jack

 

[M1911]

Just a word of advice -- please do this outside. You really don't want to be breathing in the fumes. And get a blood lead level test the next time you get a checkup. You'll have to call ahead a few days before to make sure your doctor has the proper vial -- it's just a simple blood test, but it requires vials that were treated in a particular way. The cost is only about $20.

 

[jamz]

I won't cast lead for a long time... my kids are still young and I don't want to expose them to lead much. I don't even shoot or load it, I just buy copper washed or plated ones.

Later on, I can see it... especially the way prices are going.

 

[BIG GUN]

I have been casting bullets for 55 years, and am currently using an RCBS 20 lb. bottom pour. I have a 70 ft.range in the celler, and cast in the celler. { I have gone though tons of lead & alloy's.} My wife thought I was brain dead, but a lead test showed that I was just 2 on a scale of 1-10, so she is looking for another excuse now.
I cast from 22 ca. 45 grain gas checks all the way up to 85 cal. 12 gauge sabots, around 45 molds, and have burned up to 120 grains of H4831 behind a 500 grain bullet in a 460 Weatherby, using linotype.
That exceeded 2000fps, but keeping loads under 2000 is better, and under 1500 is best. You have to tinker with the alloy to prevent leading. A 20-1 lead/tin mix works great in non hot rod pistol loads w/o a gas check.
Lee has a bunch of tumble lube aluminum molds that are cheap, do not require sizing, and shoot very well.

 

[jhrosier]

.... My wife thought I was brain dead...

Seems to be a common complaint.

I have a room with two exhaust fans and there is no buildup of smoke when I throw beeswax in the pot to flux. Beyond that, I just don't worry about lead much.

I cast from 22 ca. 45 grain gas checks all the way up to 85 cal. 12 gauge sabots, around 45 molds, and have burned up to 120 grains of H4831 behind a 500 grain bullet in a 460 Weatherby, using linotype.

So what's your favorite rifle/caliber, and what sort of results are you getting.

That exceeded 2000fps, but keeping loads under 2000 is better, and under 1500 is best. You have to tinker with the alloy to prevent leading. A 20-1 lead/tin mix works great in non hot rod pistol loads w/o a gas check.

My research and current results seem to indicate that a properly sized and lubed bullet will give very good results, at a reasonable velocity.

Lee has a bunch of tumble lube aluminum molds that are cheap, do not require sizing, and shoot very well.

I use a few Lee moulds, but am not a big fan. I think that they are lacking in quality and durability. I'm going to continue to invest in Lyman and other better quality moulds as much as possible. I do like the Lee push through sizers and have have good results with the liquid alox.

Jack

 

[WVBob]

I use a Lee 6 cavity 9MM 125gr RN and 6 cavity.38 148 gr wad cutter and like them. The other 30 or so molds I have are from RCBS and Lyman. I don't like the bullets the Tumble Lube molds make.

 

[WILDCATT]

casting

I am 83 been casting since 1939,had reading of 45 gone down to near nothing.(4).think it was leaded gas not bullets.I have the Lee #20 and a Saeco.have mostly Lee 6 cavity and a few 1 and 2 cavity(45/70 and c&b.modern bond and lyman.
lyman 311291 at 170 ww 13 gr red dot gives 1680 out of 1903.if that gives you something to go on.
you all should collect ww before they ban them.also clean the club back stop.
castboolits.com is very good site.they also have group buys.

 

[jhrosier]

...
lyman 311291 at 170 ww 13 gr red dot gives 1680 out of 1903.if that gives you something to go on.

I've been thinking about that mould. I have been using the 31141 with good results and I hate to lay out another wad of cash for another 30 cal mould. I guess I'll see what the 31141 will do at 200 yards before I decide.

you all should collect ww before they ban them.also clean the club back stop.
castboolits.com is very good site.they also have group buys.

It seems like the recyclers are getting most of the WW. One tire shop said that they HAD to sell them to the recyclers but I'm going to check a few other places before I give up.
I've scrounged a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth and will be making a shaker box to mine the backstops in the spring. I've been picking up 3 or 4 pounds of bullets each trip to the range just picking them off the ground, if it's not frozen.

Jack

 

[EddieCoyle]

When picking bullets out of a range backstop, do you guys save the jacketed as well as the cast lead bullets? How hard is the lead in jacketed bullets? When you melt a batch of recycled range lead and make ingots, do you test them for hardness and add Sn/Sb to alter the properties? Am I reading too much into this?

What is your procedure for using recycled lead?

 

[jhrosier]

I have been only picking up cast bullets and shotgun slugs. When I use the screen box, I will take anything.
The lead in jacketed bullets is usually soft as possible for swaging. It may contain a small amount of tin. Most folks treat range lead as pure lead and add it to wheel weights and/or typemetal to harden it.
Range lead is very dirty and most who use it melt it in a separate pot to keep the dirt out of the casting pot.
Jacketed bullets are likely to contain trapped moisture, which will cause a steam explosion, if added to a pot of molten metal. Consider yourself warned.
This is known to the veteran casters as "a visit from the tinsel fairy."
A single drop of water will eject the entire contents of the pot instantly. The scrap should be put in a cold pot and heated slowly, outdoors, and preferably from a safe distance.

Jack

 

[WVBob]

jhrosier is right about the "tinsel fairy". I melt it down outside in long pants, long sleeves, a hat, and eye protection. I use a 2 burner camp stove. One burner to melt it on and the other on low to get it hot and dry it out.

 

[BIG GUN]

I have worked with a lot of range stuff. Jacketed bullet cores are pretty much dead soft, there is also a lot of 22 rimfire in the backstops, also dead soft. I store most of my lead in the cellar and the moisture evaporates, but it is a good idea to put jacketed stuff in a cold pot then heat it. Range scrap is dirty, but if you flux it, all the crap floats to the surface and can be skimmed off.
I use a Saeco hardness tester on every batch, and adjust using either 50/50 solder, or linotype.
I have had explosions in the past, but it was usually caused by bringing in material from outside and having condensation form as it warmed. It will get your attention, and I have the scars to show for it!

 

[codenamepaul]

Looks like I'll be fighting Jack for the range scraps I've been pickin up for years now. I usually just bring my cheapo cullander and shake them out. Didn't know that about jacketed bullets too. Don't pick up many,but I have picked up a few.

 

[BIG GUN]

Casting your own is not only inexpensive, but fun! Hit all the tire shops & garages. I have one that gives me a six gallon bucket full a year. They used to sell it to a junkie, but say that it is now considered to be hazardous waste.

 

[WeedWhacker]

been looking into this subject..

I have an unlimited supply of 63/37 solder. Which is 63% Lead 37% Tin.

Would this lead that I have be considered to impure with the amount of tin that is in it?

I also have unlimited supply of "lead free" alloys.. Usable???

Did a few search's did not come up with a relevant result,

 

[jhrosier]

WeedWhacker,
You only need about 5% tin to made bullet alloy.
Your 60-40 solder could be mixed with straight scrap lead to reduce the in content.
Excess tin would make your bullets lighter than desired and is wasteful.
The tin sells for upwards of $8 per pound these days.
The lead free alloys are usually about 95% tin and 5% lead or some other metal.
The lead free alloys are also useful for making bullet alloy.
You should also add some antimony to your alloy if you want reasonably hard bullets for magnum pistol or rifle loads.

Black powder cartridge bullets usually contain 2%-5% tin and no antimoney.
Bullets for smokeless rifle or pistol shooting generally have about an equal amount of tin and antimoney, 5% or thereabouts is common. The antimoney provides hardness and further allows the bullets to be heat treated for even more hardness. Harder bullets can be driven at much higher velocities without leading the bore.

I have a decent supply of antimony alloy and would consider trading some of it for some of your tin alloy. PM me here or email to [email protected] if you are interested.

Jack

 

[Fixxah]

View attachment 2468

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View attachment 2470I am new to casting but have found my rythym with 6 cavity Lee mold for .45 ACP truncated cone. In one afternoon I can cast over a thousand while listening to the game. I couldn't find load data for these bullets but came up with a nice load that seems to group nicely and punches nice holes in targets. I size and lube with a Star (made by Magma Engineering) which is not cheap but is super fast once you get the hang of it.

I plan on doing gas check bullets for my '06 once I iron out any issues with case prep. As of now I still can't get the cases to fit my bolt action but they feed fine in the BAR.


EDIT: Sorry about the size.

I can honestly say that I have almost as much fun casting and reloading as I get from shooting.

 

[gerrycaruso]

bullet casting

I use the lyman 31141 for the .30/30 .308 and .30/06. I keepthe velocity to 1600 fps and it works great. I also cast for the .38/55 .45/60 winchester and the .45/70. All use a gascheck and velocity is betwewen 1300 and 1360 fps depending on caliber.

 

[WILDCATT]

lead

In almost every forum there is a thread on lead poisoning.its been a scam from the start.yes you can get problems but I believe it to come from bad practice.dont smoke eat or drink while casting.and wash your hands good.it really started in the 70s when there was a big push on about children getting it and it cost a lot of people to remove lead paint,so the little b***d could eat the wood work with out getting poisoned.several from my club got checked and one who worked at shooting all the time had the lowest.ask your doc and see what he tells you.very few know any thing about it.
and the pot has to get over 1000% to give off fumes what you see is dirt.
If your worried take zinc and iron supliments.

 

[Nickle]

You're actually more likely to get exposed to lead poisoning from removing fired primers than bullet casting, from what I've come to understand. The primers use Lead Styphnate, and the residue is apparently more easily absorbed than bullet casting fumes or contact.

Suffice it to say that I don't have any signs of lead poisoning, and I've been reloading/casting or around it for 54 years. Considering that I worked making ammo and casting bullets when I was a teenager, in my father's ammo business, that says I was exposed to a LOT of the stuff.