Ammunition for dummies

cp.

Joined
Jan 25, 2010
Messages
5
Likes
0
Feedback: 0 / 0 / 0
I recently purchased my first firearm ( S@W model 686) and I intend to shoot both 38 and 357 at the range. Other than the information I just gave you, I know NOTHING about ammunition. I don't understand grain, caliber, hollow point, etc....nothing. So please, educate me or please provide me with some useful links.

Thank you and thanks in advance for tolerating my ignorance. I have to learn somewhere and this looks like a good place to start.
 
What might be a good idea would be to pick up a beginners reloading book. It will contain a lot of good information surrounding ammunition including the case, primers, powder, and bullet characteristics.
 
Well, this reply isn't intended to be full and complete primer on the subject, but here goes:
  • Bullets are weighed using an old measure of weight, the "grain".. A grain is 1/7,000th of a pound. Just think of bullet weights as relative. A 140 grain bullet is lighter than a 180 grain bullet. A 230 grain bullet is heavier than a 180 grain bullet
  • Bullets are the PROJECTILES that shoot out of your gun. Cartridges are an assembly of a case, a bullet, powder, and a primer. Don't confuse bullet with cartridge. Don't go into the store asking to buy bullets. Go into the store to buy cartridges.
  • caliber refers to the SIZE and CONFIGURATION of the assembled cartridge. The chamber (where the cartridge is loaded) is machined to accept a particular caliber. You have to buy or use an appropriate caliber for your gun. In your case, the caliber is .38 Special or .357 Mag. That and only that should be used in your gun.
  • There are two things to keep in mind, bullet weight and bullet shape
  • With regard to both of those features, it all has to do with what you intend on doing with the rounds.
  • If you are only plinking at paper targets, then go with light weights, and avoid the heavy bullet weights.
  • Remember basic physics from high school: For every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. So, heavier bullets will give your gun MORE recoil, making it less comfortable to shoot.
  • Also, the shape of the bullet has everything to do with what you will use the rounds for.
  • Again, if plinking at paper targets, then traditionally either wad cutters or semi wad cutters are the ones that punch nice clean holes in paper.
  • Round nosed bullet push and tear through paper, making jagged holes.
  • Lead bullets are cheaper to make, and hence cheaper to buy than full metal jacketed bullets.
  • If, on the other hand, you want to use some bullets for self defense, then go with heavier bullet weights, and do hollow points, which have a cavity removed from the point of the bullet. That is designed to "mushroom" the bullet when it hits something more solid than a paper target. Those are much more expensive than paper target type bullets, and you should avoid wasting money shooting those at paper targets.
  • .38 specials can be fired from a 357 mag gun in most cases, and should be the preferred round for light recoil plinking. It's a great starting point when learning to fire your first gun.
  • 357 mags have much more recoil, and should be used later on, when you have developed a good grip, shooting stance, and overall familiarity with the gun.
  • It doesn't take much force to punch holes through paper, so a light weight 38 special wad cutter or semi wad cutter would be great first rounds to shoot. Look for lead bullets rather than brass or copper jacketed ones if you can get them.
  • .38 Special cartridge boxes might say 38 Special or .38 Spc, or .38 Spcl. Not sure why they make it confusing to new people. Be very sure you get the right ones though. You can't return ammo to the store if you get the wrong one. And, you should not, under any circumstances, load the wrong caliber ammo in your gun. If you have any questions, don't rely on the old lady at Walmart to advise you on what to use. Go to a reputable gun shop, to ask for ammunition.
  • Remember to clean the gun to the manufacturers instructions! Especially when it comes to the subject of removing the lead from the lead bullets.
  • If you'd like to learn how to reload ammo for your new gun, and shoot a lot more, and save tons of $$$, them PM me, and I can tell you about my reloading classes.

Here's a brief picture showing bullet shapes:
FOR102.gif
 
Last edited:
Great Duke (and others), thank you. I would love to learn to reload, because I am hands on, but will be at the mercy of the manufacturer for now. Is there any 38 or 357 round that I shouldn't shoot from my 686?
 
Is there any 38 or 357 round that I shouldn't shoot from my 686?

Similar sounding but INCOMPATIBLE cartridges include:
  • .38 S&W - This cartridge is a shorter, wider predecessor to the .38 Special
  • .38 Super - This is a powerful semi-rimmed round designed to be shot from an autoloader (there is a Model 686 chambered to shoot this cartridge, but it's not the one you have).
  • .38 ACP - A weaker, now obsolete version of the .38 Super
  • .380 - A rimless cartridge designed for small autoloaders
  • .357 Sig - A powerful rimless bottlenecked cartridge designed for autoloaders.
  • .357 Maximum - This is a super-powerful, much longer version of the .357 Magnum. It won't even fit in your revolver.
 
Last edited:
A good round to start with would be 158 grain. That is the standard weight used to aim your gun from the factory. 130 grain would also be a good practice round. The 130 grain will most likely be in .38 special and copper jacketed. The 158 grain is available in both .38 special in a lead round nose and .357 mag in a semi jacketed soft nose. Those three rounds would be excellent choices at the range. Obviously the .357 mag will have more power being a longer shell with more powder. Good luck, please feel free to ask many more questions if you are in any way confused. We are all here to help fellow shooters.

I should also add, I have a 686 myself, very nice choice
 
Back
Top Bottom