.38 Special - What type of bullet to go with?

[Viper22]

I'm in the process of reloading 500 rounds of .38 Special. Looking at the different bullet types, I'm undecided on what to go with. I realize the cost savings of going with lead (if I do it would probably be a semi-wadcutter), but would rather something copper jacketed or plated (better for long term storage?). And if I go with copper jacketed, I would probably go with some type of JHP. My "reasoning" for this choice, I guess, would be that I could use these for range use, and for if/when the SHTF.....

What I'm looking for is opinion/insight from anyone who has loaded JHP and SWC...and an opinion on what would be better for storage & defense...

Thanks.

 

[center442]

For defense, the JHP. For range use (plinking?) the lead SWC or WC. Either of the lead bullets will leave a nice clean hole in paper.

As far as storage, I've never found it to make a difference. Properly loaded ammo, stored under reasonable conditions will last for years, if not decades.

Are you trying to get two different loads with similar ballistics? If so, try to keep the bullet weights as close to each other as possible. See if you can find one powder that will safely give you similar velocities with the two different bullets. I think that's about as close as you're going to get. If it were me, I would make up 200 or so rounds of a heavy JHP load and practice until I was comfortable and confident with that load. For recreational use, I'd go with a lighter load with the lead bullet. Why punish your gun, yourself, and your wallet with a heavy load to punch holes at the range?

Just my $.02.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

148 grain bullets are the most popular for 38 special.

Either double ended wad cutters, plated or lead.... or Hollow Base wad cutters (the more accurate of the two styles) are the stereotypical bullets for 38 special target shooting.

The double ended wad cutters can be loaded either end out. The hollow base wad cutters keep the hollow cavity inside the case. They are NOT hollow points. They're supposed to fly with the hollow base following.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Keep your ammo dry and away from heat and it will outlast you - whether the bullets are cast or jacketed.

What you load depends on what you want to do with it and how much you want to spend.

You can get twice as many LSWCs than JHPs for the same price, and they'll do everything you need.

 

[NavelOfficer]

Another factor that might be more relevant than long-term corrosion issues is lead exposure. We're all going to die, but lead isn't the best substance to be intimate with. (I cast and reload cast very frequently, but if you can handle lead less often, why not?). For a small premium over the cheapest cast bullets, you can load the plated bullets (as mentioned above) and virtually eliminate the physical handling contact with plumbum. The Berry's and others are quite a bit cheaper than fancy jacketed types.
Another factor for bullet stlyle is ease of handling. For example, I have an NEI mold that drops a truncated cone flat point type bullet that is plain-based, but without the shoulder of the typical SWC, it chambers into the revolver cylinder with ease. It doesn't make the clean hole in paper like the SWC or WC, but the steel plates don't care.
One other minor issue that relates to HBWCs (particularly the Remington brand that I've used in the past-don't know if they even make them anymore) is the bullet diameter. I've measured these to be around .360" and that requires a fair degree of flaring the case mouth to get the bullet seated without excessive shaving of the bullet. It's not a big deal, but just another issue that you have to be aware of.
Of course, simple availability determines my choices in most cases. I once found a dusty bucket of cast bullets at a shop and grabbed it for a token amount. It yielded I don't know how many boxes of 38 SWCs, 45 LRNs and 9mm LRNs. Couldn't pass that up!
Good luck.

 

[swampy]

Plinkin ammo, unless there are restrictions at your range, is like contractor grade coffee: You take what you can get your hands on and make the best of it.

Defense ammo depends on what you are shooting it from. A 2" barrel vs. a 6 inch barrel, a stainless steel K frame vs an alloy or polymer J frame dictates what would work best. I wouldn't use a 200gr bullet in a poly frame j frame but I would in a stainless K frame. Make sure your range is okay with JHP bullets. Some frown in them. Semi jacketed hollowpoints don't seem to do much expanding judging by the range pickups I've mined from the backstop.

 

[M1911]

As others have said, for storage it makes no difference.

For plinking or bullseye shooting, wadcutters have been the typical choice. I won't load lead anymore due to my blood lead levels. One downside of wadcutters is that if you want to practice defensive shooting, reloading with speedloaders is very hard, due to the square profile. For IDPA, I reload 158gr round nose bullets. I use Berry's plated bullets (Rainier are fine, too) -- their base is covered, so they produce less airborne lead.

For defensive purposes, I use commercially loaded JHP.

 

[Viper22]

The gun is a Mod 36 w/ 2" barrel.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

2" gun is not the gun for SHTF work.
Not really even for self defense work.

GREAT as a back up gun.

Get what you can in the 148 grain weight range, and you'll be happy.