3.44 SA FG

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I got around to taking better pics after my initial joy over my awesome new 3,446,XXX SA FG M1 Garand.

Trigger Housing: 6528590 - HRA N
Hammer: HRA 5546008
Safety: HRA
Stamped Trigger Guard.
The trigger group is mint. It actually looks as clean as the trigger group that came in my HRA SGS. (Just realized I should compare the condition of the two different trigger groups)

The stock has awesome color and was saturated in cosmo. These pics are before the mineral spirit wipe down and pure tung oil treatment. The stock has the usual scuffs and dings, but I am very happy with it. The stock has been sanded. "SA GAW" is faint, but still visible, as is half of the crossed canons cartouche. Circle P is partially sanded off the grip. Like MajSpud's SA FG beauty, this stock has a number punched into the keel of the buttstock (majspud gets credit for correctly describing it as being on the "keel" of the stock) and also the disk cutout on the heel of the grip. No disk though. The handguards match in color and patina, but the rear handguard has a crack at the front by the lower band. Anyone got a suggestion for a repair? The buttplate is worn, but not worn to hell like some FG I have seen.

Bolt: D28287-12SA 011A<> The bolt has seen some use, and looks like it was reparked.
Op Rod: 6535382 HRA. There is surface rust and pitting on the tip of the op rod handle. Suggestions?
Barrel: S-A-3-52. ME 2, TE 4. Chamber is gonna need some scrubbing, rifling looks good.
High Hump Gas Lock with some old black paint flaking off.
Gas Cylinder has no markings, and looks like your regular run of the mill wide base gas cylinder.
Gas Cylinder Lock Screw: T, no finish left on it.
Rear Sight Elevation Drum/Pinion: "IHC", "W" in a hexagon, line through W
Rear Sight Windage Drum: "W" in a hexagon, line through W.

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For the crack, spread lightly and use super glue gel. Worked on a hand guard of mine and I had no issues with it after. Maybe Gorilla epoxy.

I found out the stock disc cut out and renumbering on the keel indicate Danish use.

I held off the mineral spirits for the moment to use the black bag treatment for a couple days to sweat out the cosmo. I had to do that after the fact with my first Garand as it would sweat cosmo at the range or in the sun after only a mineral spirits wipe the first time.

T
 
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Maj, thanks for the info and advice. Is it safe to shoot with the super glue repair?

I wonder if the keel number indicates a general Danish rack number or a specific M1 serial number.
 
My fix was on a Lion Crest VZ24, cracked through both ends almost to the center. I put 200 rounds out of it with no issue before I traded it towards my first M03A3.

I would tend to think the keel number rack number.

T
 
There are many handguard repair tricks. I don't bother with glue kn the old oil soaked stocks. I have had my best luck just reinforcing the inside of the stock with some filber glass cloth? You can also drill a small hole at the head of the crack to keep it from traveling...che k cmp forums there are several posters on there that do nice stock work and tips.
 
Your coin idea is right on. The hole is a perfect fit for the style of 10 ore piece made from 1924-1945.

Yes, the Danes had a 'holy' design on many coins; that's not a drill out. Currently the 1 Kroner and 25 ore have holes. 1 Kroner = 18 cents today. 10 Ore, about 2 cents.







T
 
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I only opened the pistol grip. I left my other Garand out for a day on the lawn and had a good amount of sweat. I bet if you wrap yours up, you'll get more out. You can always re-oil it. Probably best for the glue to be as oil free as possible.

T
 
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