2023 Cast Bullet Seminar!!!

[ddeck]

I would make small batches
Your better off keeping the pure lead pure and only use the high tin solder to add tin to alloy as needed.
I often trade pure lead to the black powder shooters for alloy more suited to my needs. Last trade was great , 50lbs pure for 50lbs “hard cast”
I rather have the hardcast alloy

Yeah, i wasn’t planning on using every lb of pure I had. The idea was to do 100 lb batches of one alloy for pistol (9mm and 45). It will be 8-10 BHN

Then I would do other batches for other alloys if needed.

I had a chart somewhere for pressure and hardness requirements that I’m using to plan this out. I could probably get away with a lower BHN and I may test that out, but I’ve been using 8-10 BHN and I’m having no issues

 

[mac1911]

Yeah, i wasn’t planning on using every lb of pure I had. The idea was to do 100 lb batches of one alloy for pistol (9mm and 45). It will be 8-10 BHN

Then I would do other batches for other alloys if needed.

I had a chart somewhere for pressure and hardness requirements that I’m using to plan this out. I could probably get away with a lower BHN and I may test that out, but I’ve been using 8-10 BHN and I’m having no issues

Correctly sized bullets, probably your most important specification…
Years ago I just figured out anything under 1200 fps was fine with anything I put in the pot. I would add 1% maybe 2% tin if the mold is not filling out well.

When it comes to Rifle, I’m pushing cast in fast twist barrels, so I’m usually pushing the boundaries of the RPM threshold long before my alloy will fail me. If I think I’m going to need a hard alloy for any rifle I shoot I usually just water drop lyman #2 alloy.

 

[ddeck]

Correctly sized bullets, probably your most important specification…
Years ago I just figured out anything under 1200 fps was fine with anything I put in the pot. I would add 1% maybe 2% tin if the mold is not filling out well.

When it comes to Rifle, I’m pushing cast in fast twist barrels, so I’m usually pushing the boundaries of the RPM threshold long before my alloy will fail me. If I think I’m going to need a hard alloy for any rifle I shoot I usually just water drop lyman #2 alloy.

So, if you were to make a general 9mm cast bullet for use in both short and PCC (16"), I guess you could top out at 1200 for the PCC and accept the slightly lower speed in the pistol.

Does anyone else use different loads for the same caliber? One of my main use cases is 38 spl/357 as I have access to a revolver 4" and a rifle 16". That is, you have reloads that are "38 spcl revolver" and "38 spcl rifle" as opposed to just a big ol' "38 spcl" bucket? This would be plinking rounds. It would make sense that perhaps you have specialty rounds for the rifle.

Maybe I'm just overthinking this

 

[pastera]

Yeah, i wasn’t planning on using every lb of pure I had. The idea was to do 100 lb batches of one alloy for pistol (9mm and 45). It will be 8-10 BHN

Then I would do other batches for other alloys if needed.

I had a chart somewhere for pressure and hardness requirements that I’m using to plan this out. I could probably get away with a lower BHN and I may test that out, but I’ve been using 8-10 BHN and I’m having no issues

I find that with Hitek and the right powder, lead hardness is way down on the list of concerns.
1 - good coating
2 - bullet sizing
3 - case expansion
4 - powder burn rate
5 - hardness

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

So, if you were to make a general 9mm cast bullet for use in both short and PCC (16"), I guess you could top out at 1200 for the PCC and accept the slightly lower speed in the pistol.

Does anyone else use different loads for the same caliber? One of my main use cases is 38 spl/357 as I have access to a revolver 4" and a rifle 16". That is, you have reloads that are "38 spcl revolver" and "38 spcl rifle" as opposed to just a big ol' "38 spcl" bucket? This would be plinking rounds. It would make sense that perhaps you have specialty rounds for the rifle.

Maybe I'm just overthinking this

I don’t really bother making anything different. I have played with it when it comes to hollow points only so that I can optimize the expansion. You don’t want too slow or too fast.

For plinking it doesn’t matter.

 

[mac1911]

So, if you were to make a general 9mm cast bullet for use in both short and PCC (16"), I guess you could top out at 1200 for the PCC and accept the slightly lower speed in the pistol.

Does anyone else use different loads for the same caliber? One of my main use cases is 38 spl/357 as I have access to a revolver 4" and a rifle 16". That is, you have reloads that are "38 spcl revolver" and "38 spcl rifle" as opposed to just a big ol' "38 spcl" bucket? This would be plinking rounds. It would make sense that perhaps you have specialty rounds for the rifle.

Maybe I'm just overthinking this

Range fodder , When it comes to general pistol rounds I will load to a middle ground of powder charge/velocity for a broad coverage, check function and down range results.
I will NOTE in often loading to Powder Puff Mouse Fart levels…
Cuz im a cheap yankee
My mouse fart 38s would need to be checked closely for a 16” barrel.
My gut says they will clear the barrel ? We use “fast” powders for the most part with pistol rounds so have to consider that with any “long” barrel applications?
Although Im generally pushing 180-200 gn 30 cal cast at 1000-1200 fps through 24” barrel for 50 yard gallery plinking sometimes a bit slower.
You just need to be aware if what your doing.
For the record for me personally cast squib loads are rare, i have had my share of jacketed squib loads. Factory ammo and reloads.

 

[mac1911]

8am I get a call that daughters siftball game time is changing.
Im just getting home
So goes by another year……
To add only been to range once this year. Busy busy fun with the kids

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

 

[Jenska22]

Don't remember how many btu's you said for smelting the lead: fish fryer on sale this has 58k

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

Don't remember how many btu's you said for smelting the lead: fish fryer on sale this has 58k

That should be fine. More important is the ability to control the flame and most important is a heavy frame than can hold multiple hundreds of pounds

 

[ddeck]

Don't remember how many btu's you said for smelting the lead: fish fryer on sale this has 58k

I have one for another purpose, and you'll definitely need another stand to handle more weight, but the burner should be good to go.

 

[240Geezer]

IDK about "hundreds of pounds" but sturdy is best. I typically smelt about a hundred pounds in a session. Not all of that is in the pot at one time.

 

[mac1911]

Don't remember how many btu's you said for smelting the lead: fish fryer on sale this has 58k

That stand is a bit “weak”
BTUs are “the more the better”
58 aint bad but get into 75 -100 and smelting goes a bit quicker.
Im processing what ever my small cast dutch pot holds.
Just be careful
The fish fryer stands are flimsy and the spot welds break.
Keep an eye out you can find turkey fryers cheap especially now

 

[mac1911]

Don't remember how many btu's you said for smelting the lead: fish fryer on sale this has 58k

Like this, easily modified 100,000 BTU, 0-20 PSI, Turkey Fryer Single Propane Burner Outdoor Cooker - Walmart.com

Swear I seen one halifax walmart for $24 ?

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

IDK about "hundreds of pounds" but sturdy is best. I typically smelt about a hundred pounds in a session. Not all of that is in the pot at one time.

I just did 170 with a buddy. Would have added another 50 if he brought the last roll of lead

 

[Jenska22]

yeah, turkey & oil is a lot heavier than a little fish. TY all, will keep an eye out for fryer sales.