1954 Belgian Browning A5 - Internal Barrel Taper?

76Too

76Too

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I'm considering taking my grampas A5 out for birds this saturday, and I obviously have to pattern it ahead of time. I'm just wondering what, if any, taper the inside of the end of the barrel has. I know it doesn't accept choke tubes...and someone told me to never shoot slugs out of it (could have been BS, but I never have just in case), but I was just wondering what I can expect for a spread pattern on say #4 shot with an old shotty. my grampa is still alive, and I think he'd get a real kick out of me getting some birds with his old light twelve.

also, it should be mentioned that i have a set of dial calipers and can take a measurement at the muzzle if that will tell me anything.
 
They came with different chokes. Mine is full choke on a 28 inch barrel and with 7.5 shot is a really tight pattern. I never tried it with #4. Using it for sporting clays was hard on the closer shots but could reach out past where the others would let them go.

I haven't seen it in person but I've been told that using slugs can cause a bulge at the muzzle. Being a full choke I never bothered to try it since it's not likely to be very accurate anyway.
 
On the left side of the barrel you'll find the chamber size usually something like:
SPECIAL STEEL - 2 3/4" CHAMBER **

Two asterisks = modified choke
one = full

Browning chokes are notoriously tight. Shooting lead out of it will not be an issue, steel will be a risk for you to decide. The barrel bulge comes from over pressure - shooting slugs, large steel shot and so on with high velocities is not recommended.

I've never seen a bulged barrel live, only web pics. I hunt with a 1959 28" mod and a 65 30 full. I don't shoot BB's anymore but have in the past. I limit my shells to #2 steel and velocities to 1300 fps max. I like #3 shot most but #4s and #2's see a lot of use. Finding 2 3/4" shells is getting tougher for steel shot.

Post up a picture
 
awesome info! i'll look for the asterisk and post up a picture when i get home tonight.

Sprocket said:
On the left side of the barrel you'll find the chamber size usually something like:
SPECIAL STEEL - 2 3/4" CHAMBER **

Two asterisks = modified choke
one = full

Browning chokes are notoriously tight. Shooting lead out of it will not be an issue, steel will be a risk for you to decide. The barrel bulge comes from over pressure - shooting slugs, large steel shot and so on with high velocities is not recommended.

I've never seen a bulged barrel live, only web pics. I hunt with a 1959 28" mod and a 65 30 full. I don't shoot BB's anymore but have in the past. I limit my shells to #2 steel and velocities to 1300 fps max. I like #3 shot most but #4s and #2's see a lot of use. Finding 2 3/4" shells is getting tougher for steel shot.

Post up a picture
Click to expand...
 
I have a Remington A% from the 50s, has a full choke barrel.. you dont want to shoot steel as it will erode the barrel choke over time
 
There are other options like Bismuth but they are spendy to say the least. The 65 has been shooting steel since its been required - like 1985 or so. It's killed a lot of ducks and geese, including this past weekend.

The barrels can bulge - do a search on it. As I said earlier, it's a risk you will decide to take or not. The early steel shells sucked to put it mildly and anything new is viewed as a bad thing. Lawyers are gonna cover the butts of the bosses so Browning said not to use steel in Belgium barrels but it's not like the barrels instantly disintegrate when fired...

If you want to bag birds then go for phez and use lead nh woodie.jpg
 
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CMEBoston said:
I have a Remington A% from the 50s, has a full choke barrel.. you dont want to shoot steel as it will erode the barrel choke over time
Click to expand...

Where is the erosion info to back this up? How many rounds does it take to erode a choke? I've not heard this before so I'm just looking for the sources. If true, it would have that effect on modern guns too - they really haven't changed the materials much in the last 50 years... The thicker wads used in steel shells are there to protect the bores/chokes - the older wads were not as thick so scoring of the bores was common. Browning chromed their bores iirc, increasing the resistance to scoring.

Thanks
 
Dakar652 said:
roger that...maybe i won't be taking it out for birds than...i have lead shot shells, but obviously can't use them due to wma regulation.
Click to expand...

What regulation? I use my 1955 A5 with lead all the time for pheasants and use slugs through it for deer with no problems, modified choke.

Please let me know if there is a new reg, or I missed one about steel shot on WMAs.
 
tuna said:
What regulation? I use my 1955 A5 with lead all the time for pheasants and use slugs through it for deer with no problems, modified choke.

Please let me know if there is a new reg, or I missed one about steel shot on WMAs.
Click to expand...

heard about this through the grape vine, so it could be completely false. i'll try and plug it today and see if i can find anything.
 
I have never heard anything about having to use steel shot for upland game at WMA's.

Anyhow, OP, nice choice for a field gun! I have the less expensive version of your gun, a 1942 Remington model 11 I picked up from the LGS on a spur-of-the-moment purchase (on my birthday last month) for $150 plus tax. It's a SWEET shooter, and I did way better with it at my last trap session than with any other gun I own besides the 11-87 which I shoot a lot.

Mine is a 28" full choke. I'll be taking it out on Sandy Neck for pheasant this coming Saturday morning for it's first hunting trip (in my hands at least). It has minor finish wear here and there a a few stock dings but when I took the gun completely apart down to the last pin and spring, it was evident it wasn't shot very often at all. There was still a coating of cosmoline-type protectant all over the guts, and there was barely any grime/dirt/lint etc... It is definitely the best deal I ever got on a shotgun. As far as fair market value, they aren't worth much more than what I paid for mine, but what a nice gun for the money.
 
Dakar652 said:
heard about this through the grape vine, so it could be completely false. i'll try and plug it today and see if i can find anything.
Click to expand...
You can definitely use lead shot for upland game even on wma


op....remington extended range high brass loads are great on pheasant. Make sure your friction piece is set up for high brass when using them or your shoulder will not like you.
 
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whacko - great add - I forgot to mention it.

The only mandated requirement for non-toxic shot is for waterfowl - if you're going for phez, then game on. Private preserves may have their own rules but Mass WMA you should be good.

Again, add pics! As an A-5 fan I don't care who made it or condition - my 65 has been used to paddle canoes, etc - it looks it...
 
Fist, if it's a 12, you can check the choke by trying to put a dime into it. If it barely goes in, then it's full; if it goes in more, it's more open. Don't over-stress on it. Take it to the range, and, instead of patterning it, break some clays. If you're totally destroying them at 35-40 yards, it's very tight; if they just break, they're more open.

Steel may, or may not be problematic, The older A5 are very tightly choked by modern standards, as the pre-date shot-cup wads, and the tight choke was needed to give a solid pattern at 40+ yards. You will likely get "blown" patterns with steel on a old, tight choke. I've shot steel out of my pre-war A5, and I'm still here, as is it. But, I've not done this a lot.

If you want to shoot slugs, measure (micometer) the slug you want to use, and see if it's smaller than the choke. Or, take a slug round apart and see if it will drop through from the breech end. If it sticks....I'd pass.

You only need steel for migratory waterfowl ( as the 3-round restriction on gun capacity).

Unless you have a "knife edge" on the dial calipers, you will get a falsely-tight reading.

Back in the day, choke was determined not by measurements, but by pattern density.
 
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Mr Happy - Love the "dime" reference - very old school - reps inbound.

My Mod choke A-5 is equal to full with steel - with lead it's a tight Mod - typical Browning tight chokes. In the end it's a 2 3/4" chamber so I keep my shots closer than some of the other guys with 3" chambers. Depending on the waterfowl situation, I pass on shots - mostly due to tides and creeks than range but there are times I just pull up and say "BANG!".

To the OP - use the gun on special occasions - Opening day, Christmas, etc. - use it but not every hunt. It's special and means more to use it to your Grampy - think of it as a way to bring him hunting with you and good mojo. Once you bring him pics of the hunt, you'll know what I mean - he will light up like a Vegas sign and be thrilled you are getting use from it. Even if you miss - he will get it.

Of all the things I talk about with my Dad, the A-5 is still the center. When I take out n00bs, I carry it and let them carry the 3" gun - I honor Him by teaching others and when I teach I use the same tools I was taught with. "Heritage" would be the correct word for it.
 
Sprocket said:
Where is the erosion info to back this up? How many rounds does it take to erode a choke? I've not heard this before so I'm just looking for the sources. If true, it would have that effect on modern guns too - they really haven't changed the materials much in the last 50 years... The thicker wads used in steel shells are there to protect the bores/chokes - the older wads were not as thick so scoring of the bores was common. Browning chromed their bores iirc, increasing the resistance to scoring.

Thanks
Click to expand...
rule of thumb ive gathered from doing my homework is steel shot is a no-no with a fixed choke barrel...since replaceable chokes can be replaced when they wear they are good to go.. Im not willing to wreck my grandfathers old gun shooting steel to prove a point or theory.. thats what the 1100 is for.


ETA, I have a Remington A5 variant... your mileage may vary
https://support.remington.com/General_Information/Can_I_use_steel_shot_in_my_shotgun_barrel?


and straight from the source...
http://www.browning.com/support/fre...-shoot-steel-shot-in-my-browning-shotgun.html
 
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