Yugo M70 build

[Marcus in the Darkus]

Thanks to all who have posted about AK builds in this forum, I just snagged a milled Yugo M70 kit from Bocefus on the AK Files. The numbers all match and the bore is said to be good, a little dark at the end but with strong rifling.

I'm not sure how I'll proceed with the build, as I have to make a few decisions. Do I build an underfolder with a pinned stock or do I build something with a fixed stock? Do I build something with a milled receiver or do I go with a stamped receiver?

Here's my initial thinking, but I'd welcome comments. I've read that the underfolders look cool but don't have good shooting ergonomics. That coupled with the fact that I'd have to pin the stock anyway leads me to conclude that the final product should have a fixed stock. On the subject of receivers, I'd prefer milled. I have a TIG welder and it looks like there will be weldable plate sets available for $55 from a guy on Gunco.net but welding up the reciver may be more than my skills can handle at this time. I'm only aware of one option to buy a complete milled reciver, which would cost me $300-$400 plus shipping and FFL transfer fees, which puts the cost of the completed gun higher than I'd like, although I would be able to resell it if I went this route.

I'd appreciate any comments you AK builders may have. As I move through the build I'll post pictures in this thread.

 

[LoginName]

That's a nice looking kit. I've bought a few things from Bocefus and he's great to deal with.

I've never done a milled receiver build before, but the weldable plate sets route seems like it could be more trouble than its worth (especially when a NODAK stamped receiver is around $80.00 or so).

Supposedly, milled receivers are more accurate due to the weight factor, but since it's an AK, accuracy is a subjective term (my milled receiver Bulgarian is more accurate then my stamped builds, but it's still minute of barn door).

Regardless if you go with a milled or stamped receiver, you're going to have to deal with headspacing issues because of a mismatched front trunnion and bolt/bolt carrier (again, something I haven't had to or wanted to deal with mostly for the lack of a proper workshop and tools).

One of my projects was a Polish PKMKS underfolder. It's a pinned stock [sad2] and ergonomicly wise it leaves a lot to be desired. It's nearly impossible to get a solid cheek weld on and there's more felt recoil. Still... I love the way it looks and would build another underfolder if I wasn't backed-up on other projects to be or want to be

 

[Marcus in the Darkus]

Well, the numbers do match, so if I were to weld this puppy back together there wouldn't be any headspace issues, right? I've been trying to educate myself on AK gunsmithing, and excuse me for asking an ignorant question, but would I be able to reuse the front trunion on a stamped receiver? How about on a new milled receiver?

Maybe I should just see if I can trade this kit to somebody for a fixed-stock Yugo with a similar barrel or an SA-85.

 

[madmarc0]

Milled AK kits require the use of a new rec. that requires that the barrel either pressed or screwed (depending on the kit) back on to the new rec.

If they make new side plates for them now it requires the use of a jig to properly line up the plates with the old trunion and weld in which case there would be no movement in the original headspace.

However, ANY build should have the headspace checked by a competent individual before firing ANY gun....PERIOD.

Milled rec. guns are a lot harder and more expensive to build as opposed to the cheaper stamped kits which only require replacement of the sheet metal rec.
A new registered rec. from Global would only cost 80.00 plus transfer and then you can rivet or screw it to the existing trunions and off to the races!

 

[TheFaz]

Is that a pinned or threaded barrel? I don't see a pin in the front sight base? If it's pinned and you want to use a stamped receiver then just push the pin and the barrel out, buy a Yugo AK front trunnion from Centerfire and you are good to go. You will have to re-headspace but that is a pretty easy process.

Now if it's a threaded barrel you can do a couple of different things. You can leave it attached, cut off the front end and grind it down into a front trunnion that you can put in a stamped receiver. Or you can turn down the barrel threads to use it with a stamped front trunnion from Centerfire. Or you can do the re-weld as you mentioned above.

PS If you don't want the folder let me know. I have a fixed stock Yugo AK kit and would be willing to work out a trade for the rear halves. I live in NH so the folder would work nicely up here .

 

[Marcus in the Darkus]

I just got the kit. I'm still learning about AKs, but wow, it is really nice. The quality of the assembly, finish, machined surfaces, etc. is a quantum leap ahead of my Romanian WASR. The bore looks excellent when viewed from behind, and mediocre when viewed from the front, but I still think it'll make a good shooter. I am really excited to build this rifle.

I'm still trying to figure out how to approach the build. TheFaz, we should explore the idea of a trade of my folding stock for your fixed stock. Is your rear half milled or stamped?

As for welding my milled receiver versus going with a stamped receiver, I'm leaning toward a stamped receiver because I think it will be simpler in the long run, particularly since I want to convert this rifle to a fixed stock. OTOH, if TheFaz can swap me a milled rear half, then welding still might be the way to go. I am, however, leaning toward a FFL transfer of a receiver rather than bending my own. The ability to sell this firearm if need be justifies the extra cost of the receiver, I think. Too bad milled receivers cost $400, because what's left of the milled receiver on this kit is really beefy and solid.

After removing the lower handguard I saw a pin in the lower part of the rear site base, which leads me to conclude that this barrel is pressed and pinned, not threaded, right?

EDIT - Upon closer inspection, I guess it could still be a threaded barrel. It looks like the pin on the RSB would allow the RSB to slide forward of the receiver, which would allow the barrel to be unscrewed from the milled receiver.