Winter Wilderness Survival

Boghog1

Boghog1

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With winter approaching fast I thought I would share some of what I have learned over the years, feel free to add your winter survival tips as well.

Water!
Water is crucial to help you keep warm, it is very easy to become dehydrated in the winter because you will not notice the loss of fluids lie you do in the summer, the plus side is it is easier to see your hydration level at least when there is snow on the ground you can quickly tell the color of your urine. So drink 2 liters a day, to keep your water bottles drinkable keep them stored upside down.

The flip side is water in the winter can also kill you quick, get wet and your insulation goes to poop real quick so water proof your gear before heading out, pack sleeping bags in waterproof bags. Something as simple as a trash bag and a twist tie or get the nice silnylon dry sacks.

Layers are critical because it enables you to regulate your temp easier by shedding layers as you exert yourself so sweat doesn't build up in your clothes, the moisture when it cools will make you cold quick so do everything you can to keep dry. Lots of thin layers is way better than one or two thick layers.

Well there is a start. I'll try to add more in the future if you like.
 
Sticking with Boghog's theme, fire, fire, fire. We're fortunate to live in a region where we can trip over fresh water... but you need a way to cleanse it, or a few months of the year, melt it.

There's no excuse for living in the northeast and not having a variety of fire starting implements, ignoring the bushcraft methods. I'd also argue that if you aren't living an apartment or otherwise restricted condo type development, there's no excuse for not having WOOD STOVE. (you can't pick pellets out of your yard or run the auger on hopes and dreams, and you can't cook on it either)
 
Keep some type of high calorie food food with you always, whether its in your pocket or vehicle.

Avoid alcohol until you're in a warm environment, it open capillaries and works to both lose or gain heat depending on ambient temperature of your surroundings.

"Loose" clothing will keep you warmer than tight fitting layers. This is clearly evident when you throw on a large bulky parka or when you're stripped inside a roomy down or synthetic lined cold weather sleeping bag. The loose fitting stuff also works to pump out moist air and keep you drier.

Wear boots that have plenty of room for your feet as they tend to swell in the cold and the swelling reduces circulation, hastening the impact of the cold.

Wear wool blend socks. I prefer WigWam "40' Below" socks, 50%Wool, 48%Nylon, 2%Spandex. I wear these three seasons and even periodically in the summer depending on activity. Best cushiony sock I've found yet. They're not cheap but worth every penny. They also come in XL and don't shrink up badly when washed and dried.

Wear well insulated, loose fitting gloves or better yet, mittens. Gortex shell with Thinsulate liners work very well. Wool mitten liners with a shell also work great and wool retains the majority of its R value even when wet.

Loose fitting insulated coveralls are also a great barrier to the extreme cold. I was given one several years ago and it is the best gift I've ever received bar none. Not a bad idea to keep one or a couple in the trunk of your car along with a wool blanket or two.
A 6x8 tarp to break the wind, comfort an accident victim. If its orange its a good signalling device and visible for miles.

AVOID COTTON LIKE THE PLAGUE

With all of today's high tech fabrics and with nature's good old WOOL, there is no excuse for ever wearing cotton in the winter. It may be comfortable against the skin but it'll kill you.

Bottom line, ALWAYS CHOOSE FUNCTION OVER FASHION when it comes to cold weather gear.
 
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Expanding on the sock tips: I often get outdoorsmen who complain that their feet are freezing in their <insert grams here> insulated boots. It's hard for folks to grasp that much like overdoing layers on your body, it's also possible to overdo layers on your feet. Many times, hunters or snowshoers are wearing a 2,000 gram pack boot and 40-below socks, or worse as FGB mentioned: plain old cotton tube socks. In the case of the 40-below, what happens is, your feet initially feel warm, but as you exert yourself, you feet begin to perspire. Gortex or not, the perspiration has nowhere to go, so it evaporates into the boot and freezes. To slow the rate of evaporation and wick moisture away from the skin, I use a good liner sock - especially when I'm active. I snowshoe a lot. Generally, I wear a straight up Gortex hiking boot, a Wigwam, or Smartwool sock and a liner. I've been out well-below zero and my feet stay toasty warm - and dry. If I stop to day camp or take a long break, I sock up to a 40-below. If I'm out ice fishing, or standing on a mountainside watching my daughter race, I wear a pack boot, (love my Kamiks) and a 40-below, plus a liner. Plan what socks you wear based on your activity level and always have extras.

Speaking of snowshoeing, I always keep a pair in my car - all winter. I live in an area where it can snow a lot in a very short amount of time and plows may not come for hours or even days. If I am in an accident and must walk out, walking in even 6" of snow with snowshoes vs street shoes is quite telling. If I have to bug out of my car and head into the woods, it's a no-brainer. You needn't go nuts either. Just a cheap pair of snowshoes even if they're not rated for your weight are light years better than nothing. I got a deal on some cheap 9/25's and even though I'm 270lbs, they work just fine for getting out of somewhere, actually work better than my 10/35's in lighter snow and are great for moving fast .I also keep a cheap pair of 600g Quest pack boots (Dicks) with extra socks packed in them in my hatch. They are super cheap, waterproof and warm enough. They are always there in case I've left my Kamiks at home, or they've gotten wet. At around $40.00, they're cheap insurance...
 
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Shelter
Okay I probably should have started off with this since Shelter is actually a bit more important in the grand scheme of things.
Winter survival shelters can range from a simple pit shelter that is formed naturally at the base of conifer threes like this
fig05-12.gif

http://rk19-bielefeld-mitte.de/survival/FM/05.htm

Or a fallen tree like
fig15-6.gif

http://www.wilderness-survival.net

If there is sufficient snow a snow cave can be very warm, I suggest practicing. This can be a fun activity with the kids as well it can be as simple as a trench with branches over the top to trap the warm air or a complex snow cave dug int a drift.

Igloos I have yet to experience a winter in recent times that have given me the opportunity to try and build one. but a good addition to your winter pack could be a snow saw
http://www.gec-bsa.org/program/training/adulttraining/highadventure/articles/snowsaw

Get out and enjoy new england without the crowds or the bugs.
 
WRT shelter, I was watching a show on some of the training the 10th Mountain Division does. One thing they showed that had never occurred to me was to make a 'cold air trench' if you build a snow shelter. It just allows the cold air to sink lower than you are. They had the trenches basically right next to their sleeping area and they ran the entire length of the shelter. They weren't super deep as I recall, maybe 8-10".
 
Boghog1 said:
Shelter
Okay I probably should have started off with this since Shelter is actually a bit more important in the grand scheme of things.
Winter survival shelters can range from a simple pit shelter that is formed naturally at the base of conifer threes like this
fig05-12.gif

http://rk19-bielefeld-mitte.de/survival/FM/05.htm

Or a fallen tree like
fig15-6.gif

http://www.wilderness-survival.net

If there is sufficient snow a snow cave can be very warm, I suggest practicing. This can be a fun activity with the kids as well it can be as simple as a trench with branches over the top to trap the warm air or a complex snow cave dug int a drift.

Igloos I have yet to experience a winter in recent times that have given me the opportunity to try and build one. but a good addition to your winter pack could be a snow saw
http://www.gec-bsa.org/program/training/adulttraining/highadventure/articles/snowsaw

Get out and enjoy new england without the crowds or the bugs.
Click to expand...

Yup!!!
 
There are many facets to winter survival, the primary one being body temperature regulation and never allowing yourself to sweat to the point of saturation, of course, if your are properly layered with synthetics, this will not normally be a problem.

Wicking base layer, then a light/mid weight zippered layer over that, then an insulating layer of sythetic material and finally a Goretex shell.

This is my current setup I use for ice fishing:

1. Base layer - Nike Pro Dri-Fit Long Sleeve Shirt
2. Mid layer - Smartwool thermal top with zipper
3. Insulating Layer - Arc'Teryx Atom LT Jacket - 60 grams of Coreloft
4. Shell - Arc'Teryx ALPHA SV Goretex Pro Jacket

Along with this I carry an extra base layer and an ATOM SV Jacket which has 100 grams of Coreloft, if it gets really cold I can put that on as another insulating layer bringing that part of my system up to 160grams. This is a far more flexible system than buying a single big "puffy" down or sythetic jacket.

I also have another 60g jacket I could layer into that if is beyond pisser cold out, but I rarely need to do that, especially if you are moving at all.

Synthetics are really the way forward and although I have down gear, it is only used when I'm absolutely sure their will be no moisture.

For synthetics, you want Primaloft One or Coreloft, you will pay up for these materials but its worth it as they are incredibly warm and light and they still insulate when wet.

I have learned alot by reading this guys blog, he's an ice climber and writes extensively on layering and jackets and sythetic vs down and all types of other issues related to staying warm in winter conditions:

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/

I cahgned several things about my winter layering system after reading his posts.
 
image_zps433cf595.jpg


Last weekend. Having a base camp is a good way to shake out the system and gear without as much chance of trouble.

I've added two more Nalgene bottles and a simple harness for a sled.
 
I've added two more Nalgene bottles
Click to expand...
.
You better have some insulation for those bottles. Yesterday a few scouts climbed moosillakie and there Nalgene froze. despite storing them upside down, and within their pack to keep them insulated. they were only outside for a about 5 hours. Conditions about 10 degrees and they were moving constantly. So you may have water however it may not be drinkable in a hurry.

On insulation, Perspiration is you enemy. Your insulation gets wet from the inside no matter what.
No matter what high tech wicking materials you use with non moisture absorbing layers and breathable membranes you can get into troubles especially below freezing.
Now the tech. lets say your skin is 90 degrees and the outdoor temperature is 10 degrees F.
The insulation has 80 degrees temperature differential or gradient. Lets assume for now that the temperature is even throughout the insulation. So middle of the insulation 40 degrees below the skin temp or 40 degrees above the outdoor temp or 50 degrees.
As you sweat, moisture will start to travel through the insulation. At some point the dew point temperature would be reached and the water vapor will condense and the insulation will get wet.
As the water moves towards the outside it will then freeze at the point in hits the freezing point of 32, say 30
Now your insulation is building Ice at 20 degrees above the outside temp or about 1/4 the way in.
The Ice will build towards the skin and the insulation value will be decreased as time goes on.
The only solution is don’t sweat. Or one could use “vapor barrier” clothing. A vapor barrier is provided close to the skin.
I use vapor barrier socks with a thinner sock and feet stay toasty.
Read here [url]http://warmlite.com/vapor-barrier [/URL]
 
Protect your body temp.
1.where a hat
2.stay out of the wind
3.Don't breath in cold air.
4.Don't sweat.
5.Stay off the ground.
 
I submit that 99% of the people on this forum are 99% more likely to be stuck in a car, be it in a traffic jam or a ditch, than under a downed conifer. ...A buddy spent 15 hours in his car during the Blizzard of '78 with nothing but a CB radio, less than a 1/4 tank of gas, and some blueprints he used to keep warm. So I've resolved to not be him....

Thinking about that likelihood and spending five minutes loading stuff into your trunk (if you can get to your trunk in a snowstorm) will reduce your likely "misery quotient" by an order of magnitude.

I keep an entrenching tool, extra jacket, hat, gloves, poncho liner, large trash bags, 25' tow strap, little food, water and cash in the hatch. When I lived in NH I also kept a sleeping bag in the car. Used to carry jumper cables but got an Optima battery so I'm banking on that.

Discovered that by bending down the tabs on the hatch cover, I can get to the rear storage in my hatchback by folding down the rear seat without getting out of the car. Stock from the factory, it was almost impossible to pry up the hatch cover from inside. Going outside means opening up the car and probably getting wet.
 
Andy in NH said:
Care to expand a little bit on that one?
Click to expand...

Hi Andy, Sure. Don't inhale direct cold air into your lungs. Use a scarf, muffler, turtleneck or something to buffer the direct cold air going in your mouth..
Inhalation is a direct pipeline to your core heat source. ....bad!!!
 
garandman said:
I submit that 99% of the people on this forum are 99% more likely to be stuck in a car, be it in a traffic jam or a ditch, than under a downed conifer. ...A buddy spent 15 hours in his car during the Blizzard of '78 with nothing but a CB radio, less than a 1/4 tank of gas, and some blueprints he used to keep warm. So I've resolved to not be him....

Thinking about that likelihood and spending five minutes loading stuff into your trunk (if you can get to your trunk in a snowstorm) will reduce your likely "misery quotient" by an order of magnitude.

I keep an entrenching tool, extra jacket, hat, gloves, poncho liner, large trash bags, 25' tow strap, little food, water and cash in the hatch. When I lived in NH I also kept a sleeping bag in the car. Used to carry jumper cables but got an Optima battery so I'm banking on that.

Discovered that by bending down the tabs on the hatch cover, I can get to the rear storage in my hatchback by folding down the rear seat without getting out of the car. Stock from the factory, it was almost impossible to pry up the hatch cover from inside. Going outside means opening up the car and probably getting wet.
Click to expand...

you are correct about the likely-hood of spending time in the car, a quick comment on the e-tool after using one numerous times for multiple stuck situations I now carry a avalanche shovel in the car
http://www.backcountry.com/shovels
They have a metal blade and a real scoop just smaller than a full size shovel. digging snow with an e-tool sucks, the avalance shovel will work in sand and mud as well just not packed dirt.
 
jmjkd said:
Hi Andy, Sure. Don't inhale direct cold air into your lungs. Use a scarf, muffler, turtleneck or something to buffer the direct cold air going in your mouth..
Inhalation is a direct pipeline to your core heat source. ....bad!!!
Click to expand...
What do you consider cold?
 
jmjkd said:
When the body shows symptoms of hypothermia.
Click to expand...
I am not 5x5 with what you are saying. I 've done PT at -15 F with no problems except a frozen mustache and I've bin shivering like dog discharging shaving appliances at 40 F because of being wet/wind. In neither case did I think breathing was a problem.I think it is a non issue in New England.
 
Hi Rob. I don't mean breathing is a problem, just that if you open a window in the winter the house gets colder...
peace...:)
 
Evian, because of its mineral (salt) content will stay liquid long after most tap or battled water have frozen solid. Down side is it will be so cold it hurts to drink, but it will be liquid.
 
My wife is from FL. First winter she was here she left a full Nalgene water bottle in the car. Now she knows to only fill them 80%.....
 
I would never use a Naglene bottle in the winter or summer for that matter.

The only viable water bottle option in frigid temperatures is to get these: http://40below.com/products_detail.php?ProductID=18

The Hunersdorf bottles are awesome, I use them when ice fishing and they will never crack and can handle boiling liquid, plus the design of the top allows you to take it off with big mittens of gloves on.

You can get the 40 Below insulator or the Outdoor Research water bottle parka, the latter being a little thicker, for a full insulated hydration setup.
Either way, you can't beat these bottles, they are hands down the best--and required if any of you plan on "hiking" Mt. Everest.[rofl]


24473v6.jpg
 
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Hiltonizer said:
Um... you do what the original purpose of Nalgene bottles were right?

It's labware with a brittleness temperature of -94 to 176
Click to expand...

they are pretty rugged, shot one with a shotgun using field loads and it didn't leak, have poured boiling water in them and they din't get soft
 
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Boghog1 said:
they are pretty rugged, shot one with a shotgun using field loads and it didn't leak, have pored boiling water in them and they din't get soft
Click to expand...

Yeah, I snag them from here all the time... they're great for a bunch of shit... and the real lab ones have much better lids.
 

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