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Yes they are a pita , big bench and some Rosin helps. Even with a relief cut at the shoulder it was very snug.The mini guinea from OTRPC told me the hardest barrels to spin off are the M1917’s.
Cool project though! I miraculously timed my M14 barrel perfectly somehow...it wuite literally must have been divine intervention because I didn’t have a clue what I was doing.
P.s. your second batch of photos isn’t coming over
Is there a top plate to that ?Nice score on the IHC, @Mountain
This is how the action wrench fits around the Garand receiver. Getting them off hasn’t been an issue. I’m in the process of installing the new Criterion. Even with a cheater pipe, this is taking some effort. I do remember the 308 Criterion being like this as well.
View attachment 549060
Looks like it just grabs everything on the bottom of the receiver.Is there a top plate to that ?
Wow! How’d you manage that? Stain over existing finish and then oil?I really like the design and construction of that Garand action wrench. Might be nice to have for down the road.
Getting closer on the IHC stock finish, before and after:
Couple more rub downs with BLO and should be OK. Better lighting would make better pics, can do that later once I'm out shooting it.
And would that work on a new CMP stock? That looks great.Wow! How’d you manage that? Stain over existing finish and then oil?
The wrench config for the 03 has a top plate. The garand config grabs it from the bottom.Looks like it just grabs everything on the bottom of the receiver.
Wow! How’d you manage that? Stain over existing finish and then oil?
And would that work on a new CMP stock? That looks great.
What’s your preferred method for removing finish?I removed the existing finish, which wasn't much. Dents and dings don't really show in the 'before' pic, but they were pretty bad so I steamed them out as best as possible. I use a steam iron on hottest setting over a wet piece of old towel on the wood. When done steaming I sanded with fine grit followed fine scotch brite.
It would work well on new CMP stocks, as long as the existing finish, if any, is removed first.
Depends on existing finish. Some heavier or more durable finishes need chemical stripper. In this case Simple Green 50/50 with water and scotch brite worked. You must have clean wood with open grain to get even staining.What’s your preferred method for removing finish?
Fiebings Leather Dye, dark brown.What did you use for stain before the BLO. The new CMP stocks don’t have much for finish and it just doesn’t feel right. So far this one is a great shooter and I could live with the current finish but with winter coming it could be a great project. Going to need something to do after deer season ends….
Thanks.Fiebings Leather Dye, dark brown.
What did you use for stain before the BLO. The new CMP stocks don’t have much for finish and it just doesn’t feel right. So far this one is a great shooter and I could live with the current finish but with winter coming it could be a great project. Going to need something to do after deer season ends….
How long before that RLO goes nasty rancid !My personal preference is for a NEW PRODUCTION stock is Raw Linseed Oil (aka, flaxseed oil). You can buy it at a health food store. Strip the stock before hand, don't stain it or anything. The RLO will continue to oxidize over the period of several years into what you see below. This is a new production Minelli 1903 C-Stock that I fitted several years ago. The stock was very light walnut before I started with the RLO. It will only continue to get better with time.
View attachment 549369
How long before that RLO goes nasty rancid !
You could probably rub the cmp new wood stock finish off with a medium scotch brite pad.What did you use for stain before the BLO. The new CMP stocks don’t have much for finish and it just doesn’t feel right. So far this one is a great shooter and I could live with the current finish but with winter coming it could be a great project. Going to need something to do after deer season ends….
That's what I like about the leather dye- you can force match with it.You could probably rub the cmp new wood stock finish off with a medium scotch brite pad.
Its so lightly sprayed on to even the color out of the 3 stock pieces.
So be warned — sometimes the 3 pieces dont play well together.
Isn’t that the stock that required almost no fitting? Basically a drop-in...right out of the box from Minelli?... like DW's 03A3 stock,
Minelli seems to be the least of problems for military stocks?Isn’t that the stock that required almost no fitting? Basically a drop-in...right out of the box from Minelli?
I think I remember something about how little hassle that stock was to fit...could be confused though.
That's what I like about the leather dye- you can force match with it.
If the wood is nice like DW's 03A3 stock, I highly recommend a natural finish as he has done.
The opposite. Every wood stock I've done has needed work but that's the nature of the beast.Isn’t that the stock that required almost no fitting? Basically a drop-in...right out of the box from Minelli?
I think I remember something about how little hassle that stock was to fit...could be confused though.
As DW mentioned, not a drop-in. I'm still fighting a Minelli C-stock that was first on the USMC sniper clone. Was never happy with that and switched to a vintage USGI stock, which helped accuracy significantly. I think the barrel channel is a little warped on the Minelli? Working with it on an 03A3, as I'll probably never buy another USGI C-stock because of the F-R level prices for those now.Isn’t that the stock that required almost no fitting? Basically a drop-in...right out of the box from Minelli?
I think I remember something about how little hassle that stock was to fit...could be confused though.