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What did you do in the shack today?

CatSnoutSoup

CatSnoutSoup

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I have always wondered if this forum had a "What did you do..." thread like others on NES.
A search appears to show that it does not.

So I will start off...

Today in the shack I began manufacturing coax jumpers using RF Industries RFU-508X crimp connectors on Ventev/Terrawave TWS-240 cable. This cable is a slightly less expensive electrical equivalent to Times Microwave LMR-240, and is rated for 1.5KW at 30 MHz, unlike similar sized common RG-8X cable.

UEKI8A6h.jpg


I should note though that although it has a 0.240" diameter with a 2.5" repeated bend radius it is still pretty stiff cable with its solid copper conductor.
If you really need something more flexible Times manufactures LMR-240-UF meaning "Ultra Flex" with a stranded copper conductor. However it has a TPE jacket which is softer than the PE jacket on the TWS-240 (LMR-240) and some people do not like the way it cuts and handles. I am not using it because it is more expensive so I'm skinflinting © @drgrant

I use an RF Industries RFA-4005-20 crimp tool (frame) and RFA-4005-01 die set (0.255" body, 0.069" conductor) for these RFU-508X connectors on RG-8X type cables. I also have an RFA-4005-02 die set for RG-8 type cables. I have a good coax prep tool for RG-8 type cable, but I really can't find anything useful for this size cable so I do it manually with a utility knife and a new Lenox TiN coated blade.

7kthTjsh.jpg


The generic adhesive lined heat shrink tube is just a finishing touch. For cables I have a small comically named "Flower Ocean" heat gun with deflector that I got off Amazon and it works really well.

7zJUxJhh.jpg



So, what did you do in the shack today?

🐯
 
Today I received an aftermarket replacement battery for the one on my Yaesu FT-1DR. Physically pretty much an exact copy for the original SBR-14Li which still works but is getting old and I a wanted a spare
.
We will see how it works out, but reviews were positive. Paid $36 and hopefully it is a good deal because an OEM replacement costs $80.

Also fits FT-2DR, FT-3DR, VX-8DR.

www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RV274F4/


🐯
 
I tested the 4:1 balun I built the other day (nice low SWR across the HF bands), and have started installing it in a box, but I need some more parts, like wing nuts.

I also installed this custom made paddle pad. I cut the shelf liner myself, a real profeshnul job and everything. I didn't really have a problem with the paddle moving around much, but this feels way nicer. Hunted a bunch of POTA and nabbed one of the ARRL VOTA stations (W1AW/0 MO).

I had more ambitious plans for the day, but it's cold and windy out, and I spent the day yesterday being cold, so inside it is.

1685912352578.png
 
This photo is a little deceptive. It's not quite this handsome, but it did turn out nice. I had some 1/4-20 hardware I used to finish the build. This is the 4:1 Guanella balun, which is two 1:1 chokes with some magic done wiring them together to end up with a 4:1. I tested the outputs through a 200 ohm resistance and it was pretty much down near 1:1 from 40m to 10m.

What you can't see is there are two mounting tabs on the top and two on the bottom. I'll use them to lift this into a tree, and also to provide strain relief on the wires. That should work pretty good.

I already have a 1:1 choke in a box like this, so I can run coax between those, and another down to the station and I'll be in New Carolina Windom business. I got the idea from this thread: My favorite, HF homebrew antenna.

1685926991783.png

I just realized as I was typing this that I labeled the back of it 9:1 like a dumbass. Maybe the Sharpie will come off with alcohol.
 
ToddDubya said:
This photo is a little deceptive. It's not quite this handsome, but it did turn out nice. I had some 1/4-20 hardware I used to finish the build. This is the 4:1 Guanella balun, which is two 1:1 chokes with some magic done wiring them together to end up with a 4:1. I tested the outputs through a 200 ohm resistance and it was pretty much down near 1:1 from 40m to 10m.

What you can't see is there are two mounting tabs on the top and two on the bottom. I'll use them to lift this into a tree, and also to provide strain relief on the wires. That should work pretty good.

I already have a 1:1 choke in a box like this, so I can run coax between those, and another down to the station and I'll be in New Carolina Windom business. I got the idea from this thread: My favorite, HF homebrew antenna.

View attachment 760056

I just realized as I was typing this that I labeled the back of it 9:1 like a dumbass. Maybe the Sharpie will come off with alcohol.
Click to expand...
max a hundred watts? Great job, btw...looks way better than my attempts.
 
timbo said:
max a hundred watts? Great job, btw...looks way better than my attempts.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I wouldn't run the 140-43 toroids above 100w. Coincidentally I don't have anything over 100w anyway. I'll have to put in a weep hole if it's going to live outdoors, and I'm thinking about how to vent it for heat. For now if it's going to see extended use or higher duty cycle (such as Field Day), I can take off the cover.
 
ToddDubya said:
Yeah, I wouldn't run the 140-43 toroids above 100w. Coincidentally I don't have anything over 100w anyway. I'll have to put in a weep hole if it's going to live outdoors, and I'm thinking about how to vent it for heat. For now if it's going to see extended use or higher duty cycle (such as Field Day), I can take off the cover.
Click to expand...
Yeah, my Palomar Engineering OCFD Balun/Unun has a weep hole now...actually 2. I had to install it first to see how it would orient itself so I'd know where to drill holes for them to be effective. As far as cooling, I guess leaving the cover off if it's going to be used hard isn't a bad idea. my only concern would be if it gets rained in but as long as you're right there to pull it down if that happens you should be good.
 
timbo said:
Yeah, my Palomar Engineering OCFD Balun/Unun has a weep hole now...actually 2. I had to install it first to see how it would orient itself so I'd know where to drill holes for them to be effective. As far as cooling, I guess leaving the cover off if it's going to be used hard isn't a bad idea. my only concern would be if it gets rained in but as long as you're right there to pull it down if that happens you should be good.
Click to expand...
And I think if I can seal the SO-239 connector inside, the rest can get wet without causing too much of a problem. I didn't use stainless hardware, so I suppose that stuff could rust, but if it has an opportunity to dry it should be fine. It's not likely I'll leave this up permanently anyway.
 
ToddDubya said:
And I think if I can seal the SO-239 connector inside, the rest can get wet without causing too much of a problem. I didn't use stainless hardware, so I suppose that stuff could rust, but if it has an opportunity to dry it should be fine. It's not likely I'll leave this up permanently anyway.
Click to expand...
You can add a gore vent and a desiccant pack

Distributor of Gore Protective Vents | Sealing Devices

sealingdevices.com sealingdevices.com
www.mcmaster.com

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
www.mcmaster.com www.mcmaster.com
 
Coyote33 said:
What is that?
Click to expand...
VOTA = Volunteers on the Air. They use the ARRL call sign with a /# followed by their initials, so this guy was W1AW/0 and his initials are MO. It's a way of celebrating their volunteers. I guess there are points and stuff you can get for collecting each state and stuff, somewhat of a contest. I don't seek them out, but when I hear one I try to get the contact. I might have two.

Semi-related, I'm getting good at hearing slashes in CW. In the US we don't use them as much for portable (/P), etc. but in other countries they seem to. And when repeaters identify with CW they often have a /R at the end, so K1FFK/R is Greylock.

Volunteers On the Air

The American Radio Relay League (ARRL) is the national association for amateur radio, connecting hams around the U.S. with news, information and resources.
www.arrl.org www.arrl.org
Coyote33 said:
Nothing stopping you from giving it a primer and final coat of spray paint. That would buy you additional year or two time on that non-stainless hardware.
Click to expand...
The only thing is I need metal-to-metal contact with the wire. The only exposed metal is where my wires connect. Some people just glob a smear of petroleum jelly over their connections once a year to keep the water at bay. I could do that.
 
This was long, long overdue. I have always loathed those giant, snaggy, hateful power connectors Yaesu uses (bottom left) but for some reason I left them on to annoy me every time I tried to pack this up to bring somewhere. Then I had the even gianter fuses that served two purposes: 1. to be snaggy and hateful, and 2: for the fuses to somehow work loose and intermittently cut power. Today was the day. Those two lumps of crap are what I removed. I really wish I could easily add Power Poles directly to the rear of the radio like you can with the 891, but it's not as simple with the 857. This is good enough and gives me some room to reach the battery.

I haven't measured it but I think I picked up at least 2 watts, maybe 3.

1687224852120.png
 
Got FT8 working today.

Worked two contacts, one pretty local one out in the Carolinas.

I'm still not happy with my settings but it's transmitting which is more than I can say for yesterday.

I unfortunately cleared all the pre-programmed stations from the prior owner, wondering if I can yank those from the 891 somehow
 
Is it just getting the audio levels right? Can you run WSPR for a bit to help get it right and verify you're getting out? Could be band conditions, too. Although I thought FT8 was more immune to that than other modes.
 
ToddDubya said:
Is it just getting the audio levels right? Can you run WSPR for a bit to help get it right and verify you're getting out? Could be band conditions, too. Although I thought FT8 was more immune to that than other modes.
Click to expand...
Not sure but probably.
Things were working well this afternoon, then tonight the signals stopped (don't know if me or bad night), eventually the PC had a communication error with the radio- not sure if that is related to lack of signals or separate issue.

Looked into WSPR, played with it for a good 30 minutes, didn't decode anything. Transmissions failed due to above mentioned error which started when I played with wspr and followed back to ft8. WSPR website when filtered for 10M didn't have a lot of hits in MA, looked like one report form Newton to Brookline practically and that was it.
Will try again tomorrow night.
 
Are you using a hub? My computer and radio do not play well with a USB hub. Is this a known good cable. I assume you aren't running 100w but USB cables are susceptible to RF.
 
ToddDubya said:
Are you using a hub? My computer and radio do not play well with a USB hub. Is this a known good cable. I assume you aren't running 100w but USB cables are susceptible to RF.
Click to expand...
Straight shot to a USB 2.0 port.

I ordered a cable with chokes, but I'm slightly retarded and bought a 3' cord and not 6'. New cable comes tomorrow.

As for WSPR, been running it off and on over the last few days with only 1 apparent decode out in wakefield. Not sure if I can get a signal report from that in any way, but it's disappointing.
 
Drix said:
Straight shot to a USB 2.0 port.

I ordered a cable with chokes, but I'm slightly retarded and bought a 3' cord and not 6'. New cable comes tomorrow.

As for WSPR, been running it off and on over the last few days with only 1 apparent decode out in wakefield. Not sure if I can get a signal report from that in any way, but it's disappointing.
Click to expand...
I thought it gave you the signal strength in dBs. Something is up if nobody is hearing you.
 
ToddDubya said:
I thought it gave you the signal strength in dBs. Something is up if nobody is hearing you.
Click to expand...
Yeah I just don't know what.

Basically in a week I have 2 ft8 contacts and a single wspr and I've got probably 4 hours a day on the thing.

Tried some 2m tonight but couldn't find anyone.

Managed to kerchunk the Billerica FM repeater though. Not sure if it's quiet out there or everyone's in weird digital modes
 
Drix said:
Yeah I just don't know what.

Basically in a week I have 2 ft8 contacts and a single wspr and I've got probably 4 hours a day on the thing.

Tried some 2m tonight but couldn't find anyone.

Managed to kerchunk the Billerica FM repeater though. Not sure if it's quiet out there or everyone's in weird digital modes
Click to expand...
I'm really the wrong guy to help with this. I remember when I was trying to get into digital modes I couldn't get any to work. I was told to use SSB instead of Digital mode on my radio. That worked, but I never really knew why and I think it was a crutch. This was on the 857d.
 
Drix said:
Yeah I just don't know what.

Basically in a week I have 2 ft8 contacts and a single wspr and I've got probably 4 hours a day on the thing.

Tried some 2m tonight but couldn't find anyone.

Managed to kerchunk the Billerica FM repeater though. Not sure if it's quiet out there or everyone's in weird digital modes
Click to expand...
Aside the limited range - 2m/70cm is usually pretty quiet in New England with digital modes.

One of the biggest problems with digital modes I've seen is over-driving the Tx signal which makes it impossible for the programs (FT8 or WSPR) to decode the incoming signal. These programs were designed to decode low-level signals - too much power will raise havoc with decoding.

I've found that 20m is the best place to test - you can make 20m contacts on just about any digital mode on a short wire pretty easily. You can even DIY a decent rotatable dipole.

Good luck ! :cool:
 
Last edited:
I borrowed a current meter from a friend. It's an inline Western Mountain with power poles, so very convenient for this. The results were interesting. CW is easy to measure because when it's outputting a tone, it's on (just key down, not using the keyer to send dashes or dots). For SSB I just found a tone I could make with my voice that drew the most current. All radios were output into a dummy load.

The one that's the most surprising is the FT-818 that had no change in current draw on HF.

Also interesting is the 100w rig draws 3x the power on 5w that a QRP rig draws on 5w. I've heard that before, and it makes sense.

Yaesu FT-857D
Output RF Power​
Current Draw (A - SSB, 40m)​
Current Draw (A - CW, 40m)​
Quiescent: 0.9A
100w​
7-10​
14.5​
75w​
7​
12.5​
50w​
6-7​
10.7​
25w​
5​
7.6​
10w​
4​
5.8​
5w​
3.3​
4.4​
Yaesu FTM-6000r
Output RF Power​
Current Draw (A - FM, 2m)​
Current Draw (A - FM, 70cm)​
Quiescent: 0.1-0.2A
50w​
8.7​
9.2​
25w​
4.9​
5.4​
5w​
2.5​
2.6​
Yaesu FT-818ND
Output RF Power​
Current Draw (A - SSB, 40m)​
Current Draw (A - CW, 40m)​
Current Draw (A - SSB, 2m)​
Current Draw (A - CW, 2m)​
Quiescent: 0.4A
6w​
1.1​
1.2​
1.7​
2​
5w​
1.0​
1.2​
1.4​
1.8​
2.5w​
1.1​
1.2​
1.2​
1.4​
1w​
1.0​
1.2​
1.0​
1.1​
 
Jim Poulette said:
Aside the limited range - 2m/70cm is usually pretty quiet in New England with digital modes.

One of the biggest problems with digital modes I've seen is over-driving the Tx signal which makes it impossible for the programs (FT8 or WSPR) to decode the incoming signal. These programs were designed to decode low-level signals - too much power will raise havoc with decoding.

I've found that 20m is the best place to test - you can make 20m contacts on just about any digital mode on a short wire pretty easily. You can even DIY a decent rotatable dipole.

Good luck ! :cool:
Click to expand...
Not sure I got fhe room for a 20m dipole
 

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