What did you do in the reloading room recently?

FINALLY got some time to go to the range and shoot some of my 44 MAG reloads with H110.. wow to say the least! Cases look great. A little dirty but good.
 
Started converting 75 or so 8x57mm berdan primed brass to boxer primer.

What method are you trying.

I will be loading up some cast loads today for 8mm Mauser.

At some point I'm going to pick some berdan primers to utilize my brass for mauser,mosin and Swiss cases.
 
Last edited:
Started converting 75 or so 8x57mm berdan primed brass to boxer primer.

Why bother?
Is it that hard to find boxer-primed 8mm (or .30-06 for that matter) or .217" berdan primers?
The berdan-primers are available and the decap can be done easily with water. Some, like the Yugo surplus, are stubborn, but MKE, earlier Turkish and Romanian are a snap.
Certainly, if you have means to machine the flash hole and cut the original primer to hold the .210" boxer primer, go for it, but that's a lot of work unless you just want a project.

Also, regarding the 54R brass, most of that uses an unavailable (to my knowledge) 6.5mm primer (unless you have an "in" at Murom Apparatus Producing Plant).
Hey! They have a website again...
http://www.mpzflame.ru/production/primers/

If you can obtain the KV-27N primers, let me know.
Large Rifle KV-27N 6,47mm For 7,62х51; 7,62х54 cartridge

"For many years, our constant partners are OJSC «The Tula Cartridge Works», CJSC «Barnaul Cartridge Plant» and others. Primers of our production are successfully exported to USA, South America, Europe, Africa, New Zealand and other countries."
 
Last edited:
Why bother?
Is it that hard to find boxer-primed 8mm (or .30-06 for that matter) or .217" berdan primers?
The berdan-primers are available and the decap can be done easily with water. Some, like the Yugo surplus, are stubborn, but MKE, earlier Turkish and Romanian are a snap.
Certainly, if you have means to machine the flash hole and cut the original primer to hold the .210" boxer primer, go for it, but that's a lot of work unless you just want a project.

Also, regarding the 54R brass, most of that uses an unavailable (to my knowledge) 6.5mm primer (unless you have an "in" at Murom Apparatus Producing Plant).
Hey! They have a website again...
http://www.mpzflame.ru/production/primers/

If you can obtain the KV-27N primers, let me know.
Large Rifle KV-27N 6,47mm For 7,62х51; 7,62х54 cartridge

"For many years, our constant partners are OJSC «The Tula Cartridge Works», CJSC «Barnaul Cartridge Plant» and others. Primers of our production are successfully exported to USA, South America, Europe, Africa, New Zealand and other countries."

I have never seen berdan primers in a gun shop. Only one place I know on line has them and they are usually out of stock.
 
Why bother?
Is it that hard to find boxer-primed 8mm (or .30-06 for that matter) or .217" berdan primers?
The berdan-primers are available and the decap can be done easily with water. Some, like the Yugo surplus, are stubborn, but MKE, earlier Turkish and Romanian are a snap.
Certainly, if you have means to machine the flash hole and cut the original primer to hold the .210" boxer primer, go for it, but that's a lot of work unless you just want a project.

Also, regarding the 54R brass, most of that uses an unavailable (to my knowledge) 6.5mm primer (unless you have an "in" at Murom Apparatus Producing Plant).
Hey! They have a website again...
http://www.mpzflame.ru/production/primers/

If you can obtain the KV-27N primers, let me know.
Large Rifle KV-27N 6,47mm For 7,62х51; 7,62х54 cartridge

"For many years, our constant partners are OJSC «The Tula Cartridge Works», CJSC «Barnaul Cartridge Plant» and others. Primers of our production are successfully exported to USA, South America, Europe, Africa, New Zealand and other countries."

I was looking at reloading a lot of 54R I have and was wondering if these would work?

http://www.dagammo.com/shop/non-cor...e-rifle-berdan-primers-5000-primers-p-47.html
 
I was looking at reloading a lot of 54R I have and was wondering if these would work?

http://www.dagammo.com/shop/non-cor...e-rifle-berdan-primers-5000-primers-p-47.html

Probably not.
The KV762N Large Berdan Rifle Primers are .217" diameter and are great for GP-11 (7.5x55mm), Old Turkish/MKE and Romanian steel 8mm and any .217" diameter 7.62x39/51/63mm cases that you might come across, but the majority of the berdan-primed 54R cases (.303 British, too) are of the 6.47mm diameter.
Incidentally, the KV24N primers can work in place of the KV762N, but the primer cup is a bit shorter, so they tend to seat deeply in cases that are better suited for the KV762N primers. They have worked in my 6.5/7.5x55mm reloads, however. Some give you a delayed ignition if seated high upon impact from the firing pin. The KV24N have also been offered via mail-order, but you need the KV27N (which I've never seen available in the USA). The KV24N is listed for use in 7.62x39mm; I've used both with good results.
Yes, 6.5 Swedish/Jap and some 7.65 Arg/Bel cases use the .217" diameter primers, as well.
No, don't expect to see many gun shops with these rarities in stock. Someone could have a monopoly if they worked up a deal with Murom.
 
Last edited:
What method are you trying.

I will be loading up some cast loads today for 8mm Mauser.

At some point I'm going to pick some berdan primers to utilize my brass for mauser,mosin and Swiss cases.

I use a screw in the fired primer divot to remove the primer. First I took a piece of 2x4 and drilled an undersized hole to hold the case.
Place the wood in a bench vise then the shell in the hole in the wood. Just screw it in with a cordless drill till it starts to pop out the primer,
then use a pair of pliers to lever it out.
I use a RCBS primer pocket swager to flatten the the nipple and tighten the pocket up a bit.
I'm using mostly Egyptian brass.
I've used this method back in the Clinton days to convert 7.62 steel.
 
Why bother?
Is it that hard to find boxer-primed 8mm (or .30-06 for that matter) or .217" berdan primers?
The berdan-primers are available and the decap can be done easily with water. Some, like the Yugo surplus, are stubborn, but MKE, earlier Turkish and Romanian are a snap.

Just because I can I guess. Plus the challenge and seeing how well it works. And they are already paid for.
 
Just because I can I guess. Plus the challenge and seeing how well it works. And they are already paid for.

I figured it was something like that. If I had basic machine tools, I'd probably do the same with the few hundred pieces of NNY extra-large berdan-primed 54R brass, too. Maybe when this caliber becomes ultra scarce, I'll get someone to machine this brass.
Same goes for me reloading 7.62x39mm, I guess. Some calibers just aren't economically-feasible to reload, but we do it because we can.
 
Last edited:
I figured it was something like that. If I had basic machine tools, I'd probably do the same with the few hundred pieces of NNY extra-large berdan-primed 54R brass, too. Maybe when this caliber becomes ultra scarce, I'll get someone to machine this brass.
Same goes for me reloading 7.62x39mm, I guess. Some calibers just aren't economically-feasible to reload, but we do it because we can.

Im going to do some 762x39 cast loads and run my mak90 like a bolt gun just so people at the range can say, wtf.

- - - Updated - - -

I use a screw in the fired primer divot to remove the primer. First I took a piece of 2x4 and drilled an undersized hole to hold the case.
Place the wood in a bench vise then the shell in the hole in the wood. Just screw it in with a cordless drill till it starts to pop out the primer,
then use a pair of pliers to lever it out.
I use a RCBS primer pocket swager to flatten the the nipple and tighten the pocket up a bit.
I'm using mostly Egyptian brass.
I've used this method back in the Clinton days to convert 7.62 steel.

So other than removing the anvil will LR primers press right in?
 
They are loose unless you use the RCBS primer pocket swager. Roughly .217 vs. .212. Some can still be a little loose but I've done OK with them. Some people will just super glue the primer in. Doing 7.62x39 steel case is harder than a brass case. I've gotten over 8 reloads out of the steel cases.
 
I figured it was something like that. If I had basic machine tools, I'd probably do the same with the few hundred pieces of NNY extra-large berdan-primed 54R brass, too. Maybe when this caliber becomes ultra scarce, I'll get someone to machine this brass.
Same goes for me reloading 7.62x39mm, I guess. Some calibers just aren't economically-feasible to reload, but we do it because we can.

There is a YouTube video for converting large primer 54R cases. He swages a piece of 1/4" copper tubing into the pocket with a RCBS primer pocket swager.
 
There is a YouTube video for converting large primer 54R cases. He swages a piece of 1/4" copper tubing into the pocket with a RCBS primer pocket swager.

Yes seen that lot of work.....I will just stock pile berdan brass as it comes my way and eventually pick up some berdan primers for at least my Swiss and mauser brass.
 
Loaded up my first rounds of 30-06 for my Garand. Wasnt able to find specific data for the powder and bullet combo Im using (IMR4895 and Hornady 150gr fmjbt #3037). The only Garand specific data I have on hand shows loads for h4895 which I understand is similar but the data shouldnt be substituted for imr4895.

After some research and an email to Hornady, I got antsy and started with 44 grains and went in .5 grain increments up to 46.5 grains. Sound ok?
 
There is a YouTube video for converting large primer 54R cases. He swages a piece of 1/4" copper tubing into the pocket with a RCBS primer pocket swager.

Rog. I saw another one where the original primer was milled to form the correct fit for the LR boxer primer. That and a flash hole and it would be good to go. I doubt I'd be able to get very promising results with a hand drill and ordinary drill bit.

Seems to me that for 54R brass, buy the Prvi ammunition and then you have boxer brass w/o any need for machining.
 
I started loading some newly acquired 147 gr Bayou hi-tek coated bullets with N320. I've never shot 147 gr bullets so I'm interested to see the recoil/slide action, and the POI compared to the 115 and 125 gr bullets I've been shooting.
 
Loaded up my first rounds of 30-06 for my Garand. Wasnt able to find specific data for the powder and bullet combo Im using (IMR4895 and Hornady 150gr fmjbt #3037). The only Garand specific data I have on hand shows loads for h4895 which I understand is similar but the data shouldnt be substituted for imr4895.

After some research and an email to Hornady, I got antsy and started with 44 grains and went in .5 grain increments up to 46.5 grains. Sound ok?

Hodgdon's website lists two loads with IMR 4895, but it doesn't say they are specific to M1 Garands:
BULLET WEIGHT
150 GR. NOS E-TIP
Starting Loads Maximum Loads
Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam.
C.O.L.
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
IMR IMR 4895 .308" 3.300" 47.0 2,717 50,000 PSI 50.8 2,900 58,700 PSI
BULLET WEIGHT
150 GR. NOS BT
Starting Loads Maximum Loads
Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam.
C.O.L.
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
IMR IMR 4895 .308" 3.250" 49.0 2,856 49,400 PSI 53.0 3,009 56,700 PSI
 
Bayou uses the same coating that I use on my own cast bullets.
They're awesome. I haven't used bayou but in the past I have used other coated bullets before I started casting. They worked very well.
Can't wait to see how they work for you. Are you loading them in 9mm or are they large enough to load in 357?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bayou uses the same coating that I use on my own cast bullets.
They're awesome. I haven't used bayou but in the past I have used other coated bullets before I started casting. They worked very well.
Can't wait to see how they work for you. Are you loading them in 9mm or are they large enough to load in 357?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Oh nice.

Ya these will be for 9mm. I also have some of their 124 gr bullets to try.
 
Hodgdon's website lists two loads with IMR 4895, but it doesn't say they are specific to M1 Garands:
BULLET WEIGHT
150 GR. NOS E-TIP
Starting Loads Maximum Loads
Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam.
C.O.L.
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
IMR IMR 4895 .308" 3.300" 47.0 2,717 50,000 PSI 50.8 2,900 58,700 PSI
BULLET WEIGHT
150 GR. NOS BT
Starting Loads Maximum Loads
Manufacturer Powder Bullet Diam.
C.O.L.
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
Grs.
Vel. (ft/s)
Pressure
IMR IMR 4895 .308" 3.250" 49.0 2,856 49,400 PSI 53.0 3,009 56,700 PSI




Yeah, I saw that. My understanding is that loads for the Garand should be at lower pressures than commercial 30.06 loads. My Hornady book lists Garand specific data, just not for imr4895 and a 150 grain bullet.

Shot the tests loads today after work. No issues and best group for me was with the starting load of 44 grains.
 
Rog. I saw another one where the original primer was milled to form the correct fit for the LR boxer primer. That and a flash hole and it would be good to go. I doubt I'd be able to get very promising results with a hand drill and ordinary drill bit.

Seems to me that for 54R brass, buy the Prvi ammunition and then you have boxer brass w/o any need for machining.

I found a good deal,on lapua brass while back, 49 cents each shipped limit 100pc. I don't find ppu 54r often locally for less than 20$ box. Online from places that will ship to me are generally out of stock.
 
Loaded up my first rounds of 30-06 for my Garand. Wasnt able to find specific data for the powder and bullet combo Im using (IMR4895 and Hornady 150gr fmjbt #3037). The only Garand specific data I have on hand shows loads for h4895 which I understand is similar but the data shouldnt be substituted for imr4895.

After some research and an email to Hornady, I got antsy and started with 44 grains and went in .5 grain increments up to 46.5 grains. Sound ok?

You should be fine with those loads with IMR4895. A call to Hodgdon or a email will get you some load info. Expect a generic response from Hornady such as "we don't list powders that we feel will not perform well, they will how ever give you some data that is safe.
Also do a Google search on NRA Garand loads.....mind you these can be stout.
There's a few other things out there also.
Reloading For The M1 by John R. Clarke another good read is reloading for the semi auto rifle, I forget the author. It's either a rifleman or NRA publication.
Flipping through the reload manuals the few loads that have IMR 4895 seem to be with heavier bullets? As many would say the IMR 4895 is a "military" powder and what was used in M2 ball ammo.
Does not make it the best powder. M2 ball ammo is ok but there is no need to try and duplicate it.
You can generally find match bullets like nosler custom comps on sale for same as those hornady 150g fmjbt. Powders I used so far H335, IMR/H4895 ,4064, Varget, VHT n140, win748,BLC2. Some perform better
N140 did very well but is hard to come by and to expensive for garand use.
I settled on varget it just does well with any bullet I tried.

For my 100 yard plinking loads I used the lightest charge of H335 that would cycle my rifle
Which for me is 38 grains. Bullet is some inexpensive pulled bullets I got years ago when pulls where cheap. It's a nice light -3moa ish load great for plinking.

All my M1s find the best accuracy in the lower middle range of published data. I only shoot out to 200 yards so hot loads are not needed for me.
 
I gave up on the Hornady 150 gr FMJs. The extra couple pennies for the 168 gr BTHP bullets was sooo worth it to me as the accuracy gain was shocking even at 100 yards.
 
I also recently bought a Lee taper crimp die for 9mm. I want to see if there's any change in accuracy/reliability compared to using the Lee FCD. Sometimes I get a fair amount of resistance when using the FCD which means it's really squeezing down the bullet and case to fit through the sizing ring.
 
Shot the tests loads today after work. No issues and best group for me was with the starting load of 44 grains.

Sounds like you have your answer.
FWIW, Speer 13 states the following under data for the .30-06 168gr. BTHP-Match bullet #2040 @ 3.295": "This propellant recommended for gas-operated semi-automatic match rifles"
The loads so annotated are:
H380 51.0 to 55.0 (2454 to 2736)
IMR 4064 45.0 to 49.0 (2367 to 2549)
IMR 4895 44.0 to 49.0 (2437 to 2605)
 
Back
Top Bottom