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What did you do in the reloading room recently?

Quite_Exasperated said:
I Wish I could find something like this that works for a mini 14...I have to drive to the next county to pick up brass unless I set up just right so it bounces off the head of the guy 4 bays down and it falls at his feet..
Click to expand...
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E&L brass catcher.

Years ago 20+ or so they did have a "deflector" that was just a stiff plastic piece over the action that just took the mmphh out of the ejecting case.
 
Nick Leduc said:
Times like these are not the times to make dumb mistakes.

View attachment 483994
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The one in the 9x18 case is a lost cause, obviously, but the one on the right can be salvaged.

1. Deprime
2. Remove anvil.
3. Wet the compound with distilled water.
4. Find a spent primer with anvil.
5. Remove its anvil and with an appropriately sized punch, flatten the face to remove the primer strike divet from the spent primer cup.
6. Clean the spent primer cup thoroughly with alcohol.
7. Transfer priming compound from the mashed primer to the restored used primer. Try to make it evenly distributed, especially in the middle.
8. Place the anvil from the spent primer back in place.
9. Let dry thoroughly.
10. Install primer back in case, this time straight in.

This is a joke.
 
meh said:
The one in the 9x18 case is a lost cause, obviously, but the one on the right can be salvaged.

1. Deprime
2. Remove anvil.
3. Wet the compound with distilled water.
4. Find a spent primer with anvil.
5. Remove its anvil and with an appropriately sized punch, flatten the face to remove the primer strike divet from the spent primer cup.
6. Clean the spent primer cup thoroughly with alcohol.
7. Transfer priming compound from the mashed primer to the restored used primer. Try to make it evenly distributed, especially in the middle.
8. Place the anvil from the spent primer back in place.
9. Let dry thoroughly.
10. Install primer back in case, this time straight in.

This is a joke.
Click to expand...
By #3 you had me scratching my head. Haha.
My list:
1. Toss into the bin I have labeled "pull for components " that I will never get to.
2: Cry at the range when I have 98 rounds instead of 100.
3. Repeat at some point.
 
meh said:
The one in the 9x18 case is a lost cause, obviously, but the one on the right can be salvaged.

1. Deprime
2. Remove anvil.
3. Wet the compound with distilled water.
4. Find a spent primer with anvil.
5. Remove its anvil and with an appropriately sized punch, flatten the face to remove the primer strike divet from the spent primer cup.
6. Clean the spent primer cup thoroughly with alcohol.
7. Transfer priming compound from the mashed primer to the restored used primer. Try to make it evenly distributed, especially in the middle.
8. Place the anvil from the spent primer back in place.
9. Let dry thoroughly.
10. Install primer back in case, this time straight in.

This is a joke.
Click to expand...

One of the guys I shoot with in Georgia is reloading primers. He says he does it while watching tv. I told him he has way too much time on his hands and way more patience than I do.
 
My wife called me today.
H: What the hell is in this box?
M: Uh. Is it from Georgia Brass?
H: Yes.
M: It's 1000 147 grn bullets, could you put in the garage please?
H: Do you know how heavy it is?
M: Yup. Lemme guess, the mailman put it in the mailbox, right?
H: Yes - and I broke a nail getting it out.
M: --silence--
H: Why the hell do they pack it like this?
M: Priority mail, flat rate.
H: Are you getting another shipment before I come up there?
M: yup.
H: Goddamnit.
 
xtry51 said:
"Do you know how heavy it is?"

Well, it's probably 21lbs plus the box. Unless they gave us free extra bullets!
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Yup, my math says 21 lbs too. These are .356, flat nose, poly coated. Designated 9mm, but I'm going to try them as .357Sig. Hoping the profile will lend itself to better load than the round nose 147 plated I just loaded.

That load was disappointing. I was hoping it would work for "bigbore" pins, (where pins are a foot from the front of a four foot table). It knocks them down, but it doesn't take them off. It's okay for medium bore, (where I only have to push the pins a foot to get them off the table), but my G34 running 9mm is fine for medium bore, and is much faster to get back on target. I was really hoping these would work for big bore - but looks like I'm going to use .45 again this year.

Speaking of which, I ordered the .45 dies and conversion from Dillon on 1/12, they were backordered 14 weeks at the time, which gave me an ETA of 04/20. I called when that date passed and was told that there's a 36 week backorder. 36 weeks from original order puts me out at 09/21. Ouch.
 
allen-1 said:
Yup, my math says 21 lbs too. These are .356, flat nose, poly coated. Designated 9mm, but I'm going to try them as .357Sig. Hoping the profile will lend itself to better load than the round nose 147 plated I just loaded.

That load was disappointing. I was hoping it would work for "bigbore" pins, (where pins are a foot from the front of a four foot table). It knocks them down, but it doesn't take them off. It's okay for medium bore, (where I only have to push the pins a foot to get them off the table), but my G34 running 9mm is fine for medium bore, and is much faster to get back on target. I was really hoping these would work for big bore - but looks like I'm going to use .45 again this year.

Speaking of which, I ordered the .45 dies and conversion from Dillon on 1/12, they were backordered 14 weeks at the time, which gave me an ETA of 04/20. I called when that date passed and was told that there's a 36 week backorder. 36 weeks from original order puts me out at 09/21. Ouch.
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...and that might actually be 36 weeks from last week, based on what I saw from a Dillon rep on Reddit. So they told you 36 weeks from order date?
 
ProGun said:
...and that might actually be 36 weeks from last week, based on what I saw from a Dillon rep on Reddit. So they told you 36 weeks from order date?
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No. He just said they were back-ordered 36 weeks. :(

So, as I said somewhere earlier, I have a plan "B". I have a spare set of 9mm dies and conversion kit, I'll see if I can trade them...
 
9mm 124gr CMJ by MGB
5.8gr Accurate No.5
CCI No.500 SPP
Once fired Winchester brass
COL 1.150 ±0.001

Only loaded 50 (Redding T7 press) because while this is a charge I have used before for 124gr FMJ this is the first time I have used it with a CMJ (TMJ) bullet and it is a bit on the strong side as it is near the top of the recommended charge (5.3-6.0) for non +P. Should be safe though as this CMJ bullet is slightly shorter than the FMJ I have used for the same COL.

🐯
 
I just moved from Hornady 55gr FMJ to Wolf 55g FMJ. The Wolf is definitely a little less consistent. The weights are wider than Hornady which was 54.6-54.9 for the batch I just finished. This box of 1k Wolf from a 4k bulk box is 54.5-55.1gr.

The shape also seems to be slightly variant as my OAL is varying more. I'm using my Lee Turrent with (2) powder drops and (2) seating dies (all Lee). With the Hornady I had it dialed in 2.246-2.250. These Wolf I had to back the die out and to keep the high side at max 2.250, I am seeing a few that are 2.236", though most are 2.250-2.245".

I always target max OAL as I find it shoots better from my primary rifle. I don't think any of this is particularly "bad" as I'm loading training ammo, but in the future I'll likely stick with only buying Hornady bulk 55gr bullets.
 
xtry51 said:
I just moved from Hornady 55gr FMJ to Wolf 55g FMJ. The Wolf is definitely a little less consistent. The weights are wider than Hornady which was 54.6-54.9 for the batch I just finished. This box of 1k Wolf from a 4k bulk box is 54.5-55.1gr.

The shape also seems to be slightly variant as my OAL is varying more. I'm using my Lee Turrent with (2) powder drops and (2) seating dies (all Lee). With the Hornady I had it dialed in 2.246-2.250. These Wolf I had to back the die out and to keep the high side at max 2.250, I am seeing a few that are 2.236", though most are 2.250-2.245".

I always target max OAL as I find it shoots better from my primary rifle. I don't think any of this is particularly "bad" as I'm loading training ammo, but in the future I'll likely stick with only buying Hornady bulk 55gr bullets.
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I would just see how they do. i picked up a few k of the wolf 55s when they where cheap, IIRC .06 ea shipped.
I also have a good amount of the Hornady when they could be had under .10 each shipped in the 6000 pc case.
There are all run through lee Pro1000 with W846 surplus powder running right around 3000 fps and seated at Hornady load data COAL.
 
Decapping hack! I bought a LEE APP to decap and it was less than useless. Call me a press snob but its way to rinky dinky for me. So I went about hacking my Mk 7 Evo and I found a solution...well hack but way better than the APP.

I removed the decapping/sizing die and installed just a decapper. I removed the case spring, one that holds the brass in place. I found Wiremold T-Fitting I had knocking about and cut/shaped it to hold the brass in station two.

Process is fairly straightforward, fill the case hopper, crank the handle and pull the decapped case from station three. Yes, I’m handling the brass but it actually gives me an opportunity to find issue brass prior to tumbling it. If I spot an outlier I just drop it in the trash bucket next to me, otherwise it goes in ammo can for tumbling.
 

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mac1911 said:
I would just see how they do. i picked up a few k of the wolf 55s when they where cheap, IIRC .06 ea shipped.
I also have a good amount of the Hornady when they could be had under .10 each shipped in the 6000 pc case.
There are all run through lee Pro1000 with W846 surplus powder running right around 3000 fps and seated at Hornady load data COAL.
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Yeah I'm sure they will be better then mil surplus or bulk commercial ammo no matter what. I'm still using 25.0gr of Tac. So not a hot load.
 
Spent a little time on the reloading bench this weekend, I had to make a little more for plinking and a little more for the steel matches.
 

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