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Tulammo?
- Thread starter oniriggers
- Start date
I have a few boxes I havnt shot yet, walmart in plaistow carries it usually if you want to try a small box before getting a caseload.
radioman
NES Member
I use it. I find the 45acp to be very hot. Much hotter than the red box Federal of the same spec's. Also very dirty. My 1911 is black two inches back from the muzzle after a box of Tula. Can't beet the price though!!
ive been buying tulammo 7.62x39 lately to run through my WASR... found a good price on it so bought a bunch, ran probly 500 rounds through so far no problems, i find its about the same as any other 7.62 ive fired, but i agree with radioman, it is dirty dirty
flintoid
Banned
I would have to agree with you that if your guns cycle wolf, they better cycle TulAmmo because it's the same shit.
Tula Cartridge Works makes ammunition. Tula Cartridge Works ammunition is marketed in Russia as TulAmmo.
Wolf = Tula Cartridge Works ammunition + marketing for Americans. Now that Americans aren't scared of Russians, you can now market russian ammo without the guise of an american company, "Wolf."
Brown Bear / Silver Bear = ammunition made in the Barnaul Machine - Tool plant in St. Petersburg. It is imported by a US company and re-branded, just like Wolf. "Barnaul" is how it's marketed in Russia. I bet you are familiar with that name, too.
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![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
flintoid
Banned
That would make sense- they probably stopped supplying Wolf when Tulammo appeared on the market, which seems to be fairly recently. They're cutting out the middle man, essentially, and keeping the profit to themselves. Makes sense.
So Wolf probably is contracted elsewhere. Either way, Wolf used to be Tula Cartridge Works ammo. And more than likely is the same shit since they'd been buying their ammunition and marketing it for years.
Rep points for whoever figures out where new production wolf is getting their shit.
So Wolf probably is contracted elsewhere. Either way, Wolf used to be Tula Cartridge Works ammo. And more than likely is the same shit since they'd been buying their ammunition and marketing it for years.
Rep points for whoever figures out where new production wolf is getting their shit.
The most curious brand is Golden Tiger. Made in russia somewhere and imported by some guy in NH. Someone in NH has a warehouse with a sh**tload of ammo in it... too bad one couldn't buy it factory direct.
-Mike
-Mike
flintoid
Banned
Lord even knows if this shit is even "manufactured" or whether it's pulled from the billions of stockpiled rounds of the USSR for when the crazy capitalists came pouring over the great motherland's borders.
It's why I never pay attention to claims of whether shit russian ammo is corrosive or not. I've shot boxes of Silver Bear that rusted my gas pistons faster than a ford pinto, and everywhere you read Silver and Brown bear are not corrosive. Bullshit. I'm guessing it came from an old bunker and was copper washed to "new manufacturing" form.
It's why I never pay attention to claims of whether shit russian ammo is corrosive or not. I've shot boxes of Silver Bear that rusted my gas pistons faster than a ford pinto, and everywhere you read Silver and Brown bear are not corrosive. Bullshit. I'm guessing it came from an old bunker and was copper washed to "new manufacturing" form.
Boris
Son of Kalashnikov
... and SilverBear is suppose to be the primo stuph. I can't imagine what would happen if you'd shoot BrownBear.
www.wolfammo.ru is actually Tulammo site. I don't know what's going on here, it's like Russkis are taking capitalist to the whole new level.
I use Tula .223 for plinking, my gun seems to like it and the price over brass .223 is significant. I have used 9mm and it was crap. Doesn't group beyond 15 yards. Just buy WWB from walmart, its $23 a box.
Thats why I was scrubbing crust out of the barrel of my SVT40 last weekend after shooting a box of Silver Bear 7.62x54 a while back.
So far so good though on the Tulammo. I've shot tons of it and no rust yet.
flintoid
Banned
It'd be interesting to see if there are any date codes on that ammo. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks it's corrosive because I thought I was retarded or something.
None on mine but there is some stamp that I can't make out. Could be a date code that was restruck and made into something that can't be read. Its advertised as 185 Grain Bimetal FMJ, boat tail bullet, zinc plated steel case, non-corrosive berdan primer.
I can say without a doubt though that it is corrosive! I shot it specifically through my SVT40 a while back because it was advertised as non corrosive and I often get lazy about cleaning my gas operated rifles after a day of shooting. Months later... frosty orange bore and chamber.
![[angry]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/008.gif "Angry [angry]")
Now I know to use it for Mosins an clean accordingly after shooting.
Andreas
NES Member
I can say without a doubt though that it is corrosive! I shot it specifically through my SVT40 a while back because it was advertised as non corrosive and I often get lazy about cleaning my gas operated rifles after a day of shooting. Months later... frosty orange bore and chamber.
Well shit.
I'm glad I read this... I too specifically picked up some silver bear because it was listed as non-corrosive, and for the exact same reason (laziness).
Are you tellin me I paid more than spam can prices for no reason???
Boris
Son of Kalashnikov
I doubt that cartridge itself will have meaningful information to figure out the date, unless there is a mark that can show that it was manufactured in USSR (ex-milsurp)
Like I posted in the other thread, corrosive effect is mainly due to Hg in hot primers. I guess if you can pull the bullet out, you can try a Hg test from some internet kit. Also, the corrosion due to traces of Hg can not be solved by merely cleaning the barrel out since Hg amalgams to the metal in the barrel.
Like I posted in the other thread, corrosive effect is mainly due to Hg in hot primers. I guess if you can pull the bullet out, you can try a Hg test from some internet kit. Also, the corrosion due to traces of Hg can not be solved by merely cleaning the barrel out since Hg amalgams to the metal in the barrel.
flintoid
Banned
Well shit.
I'm glad I read this... I too specifically picked up some silver bear because it was listed as non-corrosive, and for the exact same reason (laziness).
Are you tellin me I paid more than spam can prices for no reason???
Yeah, kind of- Silver Bear still runs like clockwork compared to some laquered steel cased ammo. I find it to run smoother, and it doesn't leave all of that shitty gunk behind in your receiver. It is still corrosive, though, so treat it as such. It's also fairly accurate from my experiences, but then again, the gun I run it through is a nasty-ass honeybadger tack driver.
I'm having a hard time understanding how mercury amalgams with any alloy that is in a barrel. Last I checked, my barrels weren't made out of soft metals and steel being mostly made out of Fe kind of negates this theory... could you link this other thread? Unless Cr amalgams to Hg like crazy, then I wouldn't be too worried about it. I could be totally wrong here, so correct me if I am.
I thought corrosion from ammo was due to the usage of potassium percholate in ammunition primers, not mercury. And that after firing it left potassium chloride, which when mixed with water, rusts metal through an acidic solution. Which is why cleaning with soap is where it's at- it brings the PH back to where you want it.
But like I said, I could be wrong. So please share that thread (your theory/knowledge/etc). This is the first time I've read about Hg being the culprit and it's got me hyper interested now
![[grin]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/041.gif "Grin [grin]")
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Would the corrosive ammo be as much of a problem with a chrome lined barrel? It seems that it wouldn't.
Yeah, kind of- Silver Bear still runs like clockwork compared to some laquered steel cased ammo. I find it to run smoother, and it doesn't leave all of that shitty gunk behind in your receiver. It is still corrosive, though, so treat it as such. It's also fairly accurate from my experiences, but then again, the gun I run it through is a nasty-ass honeybadger tack driver.
I'm having a hard time understanding how mercury amalgams with any alloy that is in a barrel. Last I checked, my barrels weren't made out of soft metals and steel being mostly made out of Fe kind of negates this theory... could you link this other thread? Unless Cr amalgams to Hg like crazy, then I wouldn't be too worried about it. I could be totally wrong here, so correct me if I am.
I thought corrosion from ammo was due to the usage of potassium percholate in ammunition primers, not mercury. And that after firing it left potassium chloride, which when mixed with water, rusts metal through an acidic solution. Which is why cleaning with soap is where it's at- it brings the PH back to where you want it.
But like I said, I could be wrong. So please share that thread (your theory/knowledge/etc). This is the first time I've read about Hg being the culprit and it's got me hyper interested now
flintoid
Banned
You are correct- it's not that big of a deal. It'll still frost in there, though, but it makes it easier to clean out, whether you do it with cleaning agents or more ammo down the pipe. All that you'll see is oxidized metal jacketing with water and salt.
It's the reason why Yugoslavic AK parts kits usually have "sewer pipe" barrel bores- Chromium was extremely rare in this combloc country, so they didn't line their barrels with it. Being that their armories made corrosive 7.62x39, and their army was brutally dislexic and undisciplined, most of the parts kits come over here with shit-tastic barrels. They look dark, dingy, and corroded. They still can be fairly accurate, though. And if you get a pristine barrel, it'll be the most accurate AK you can own- chrome lined barrels have a negative effect on accuracy as the barrel doesn't "grab" the bullet nearly as well as bare steel. The friction coefficient isn't nearly as high as steel, and in the AKM's case, barrel-to-bullet geometry benefits from a higher
Chromium has a natural resistance to corrosion and has a high hardness rating. Familiar with Stainless Steel? Well, that's just an alloy made of iron, chromium, an nickel. Chromium is the shit when talking about resistance to rust. Hence why it's used to line steel bores
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
flintoid
Banned
but that's not saying that the corrosion won't happen elsewhere-
in an AK, the gas system isn't entirely chrome lined. The gas tube and rear sight block void is either painted, parked, or blued steel. This will rust pretty bad with corrosive ammo from the gases that help the gun function. Also- the bolt and carrier aren't chrome lined. The gas piston is usually stainless steel or chrome plated, so this is not a worry.
Anyways, it's best to clean your shit with soap or a basic cleaning agent. If you like your guns and like to keep them clean, do it. If you want a "battle hardened" look to a cheap AK, then don't. I've debated building one up just to beat the hell out of with corrosive ammo but money is tight. It'd be pretty cool, though.
in an AK, the gas system isn't entirely chrome lined. The gas tube and rear sight block void is either painted, parked, or blued steel. This will rust pretty bad with corrosive ammo from the gases that help the gun function. Also- the bolt and carrier aren't chrome lined. The gas piston is usually stainless steel or chrome plated, so this is not a worry.
Anyways, it's best to clean your shit with soap or a basic cleaning agent. If you like your guns and like to keep them clean, do it. If you want a "battle hardened" look to a cheap AK, then don't. I've debated building one up just to beat the hell out of with corrosive ammo but money is tight. It'd be pretty cool, though.
You are correct- it's not that big of a deal. It'll still frost in there, though, but it makes it easier to clean out, whether you do it with cleaning agents or more ammo down the pipe. All that you'll see is oxidized metal jacketing with water and salt.
It's the reason why Yugoslavic AK parts kits usually have "sewer pipe" barrel bores- Chromium was extremely rare in this combloc country, so they didn't line their barrels with it. Being that their armories made corrosive 7.62x39, and their army was brutally dislexic and undisciplined, most of the parts kits come over here with shit-tastic barrels. They look dark, dingy, and corroded. They still can be fairly accurate, though. And if you get a pristine barrel, it'll be the most accurate AK you can own- chrome lined barrels have a negative effect on accuracy as the barrel doesn't "grab" the bullet nearly as well as bare steel. The friction coefficient isn't nearly as high as steel, and in the AKM's case, barrel-to-bullet geometry benefits from a higher
Chromium has a natural resistance to corrosion and has a high hardness rating. Familiar with Stainless Steel? Well, that's just an alloy made of iron, chromium, an nickel. Chromium is the shit when talking about resistance to rust. Hence why it's used to line steel bores
Thanks Flintoid. I'm no metallurgist but I do get the benefits of chrome plating and stainless alloys. It's good to hear the practical experience though.
I bought some Silver Bear for use in my XCR which has a chromed barrel and the gas system is hard chromed as well. So I think I'm good but I'll make sure I clean it well all the same.
