Smith and Wesson 325PD

[Executive]

I've been shooting a lot of .45 lately and since I startet reloading, I've been shooting even more. I'm looking for a different .45 handgun and have been thinking about the S&W 325PD. I have been critical of the .45ACP in a revolver via moon clips but really like the cartridge and the look of this gun. Do any of you have one and how do you like it? Is it accurate? Does it handle well? I'll be shooting this almost exclusively at the range but might consider carrying it while backpacking. Help me out here before I make a $$$ mistake. Thanks.

 

[adweisbe]

Take a crack at shooting an N-frame in .45 before you go all out. It didn't work for mey. Can't reach the trigger and the recoil goes into the wrong place. Other then that you can't go wrong.

 

[jhrosier]

I think that I would go with the 625JM. The extra weight will make it much more fun to fire. The 325 is 26.5 oz, the 625 is 43 oz.

 

[Executive]

If I could get that model without the JM crap all over it I would. For the same reason I avoided the Doug Koenig model 1911.

 

[jhrosier]

Take a crack at shooting an N-frame in .45 before you go all out. It didn't work for mey. Can't reach the trigger and the recoil goes into the wrong place. Other then that you can't go wrong.

The newer N frames, with the round butt, offer more grip choices than the older square butt models. I find the Model 610 round butt to be much easier to handle than the older square butt Model 57.

 

[Supermoto]

I have shot a 325pd a good amount and own a 625jm.

The 325 is light, transitions well, but has alot of snap to it. You can shoot it quickly if you just let the gun do its things and not try to stop the recoil. It comes back on target just as fast as it recoils. Its not a gun I can shoot all day, even with down loaded rounds.

The 4" 625 doesn't have the snap of the 325, slower and softer, but the gun can still transition well. I can shoot all day with out my hands getting tired

I haven't tried a 5" but did shoot a 6" 686 with lighter loads. shot very soft, but transistions felt like you were swinging a 2x4

 

[EddieCoyle]

I had a 625 JM and sold it to get a regular 625 4". I hated the smooth grips and serrated trigger - preferring checkered grips and a smooth trigger instead. I actually have two now and will be selling one shortly (long story).

Like Supermoto said, you can shoot it all day. It's very accurate and light shooting.

 

[Executive]

Never having owned a moonclip type revolver, how does that arrangement work out? Do the clips hold the cartridges securely? Even in one's pocket? Are there any additional hidden problems? Actually, my ideal auto-cartridge revolver would be a 10mm -- I've heard you can shoot .40S&W through them also, as you can fire a .38 through a .357. The 325 is still high on my list even though the 625 would be easier to shoot. I have a 686 and feel that the 625 is just too similar.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Never having owned a moonclip type revolver, how does that arrangement work out? Do the clips hold the cartridges securely? Even in one's pocket? Are there any additional hidden problems? Actually, my ideal auto-cartridge revolver would be a 10mm -- I've heard you can shoot .40S&W through them also, as you can fire a .38 through a .357. The 325 is still high on my list even though the 625 would be easier to shoot. I have a 686 and feel that the 625 is just to similar.

The moon clips are like a speedloader but they hold the cartridges even more securely (you'll find out how securely when you have to de-moon the spent cases). One problem is charging the cylinder quickly with a moon clip. They hold the cartridges securely, but not tightly aligned, so you have to jiggle the cartridges a bit to get all 6 into the cylinder at once.

One of my 625's (the one I'm not selling) is at S&W now for an action job and to have the charge holes chamfered to make it easier to get the rounds in the chambers.

I'm lucky enough to own a 610 that I was able to find at a reasonable price. It is a very versatile revolver. I don't bother with .40 because I reload, but there's a lot you can do with a 10mm.

 

[Pilgrim]

Anyone who uses moon clips will tell you that they hold the cartg. a little too well sometimes. It can be a little tough to insert/remove the cartgs.

i like the 1/2 moons better than the full moons. They fit in your pocket better.

It's not a SW, but it's the only moon clipper I have:

 

[Supermoto]

If you are just shooting at the range, you can use Rimz moon clips. They are made of plastic so you can load and demoon them easily, but they are not secure enough for carry or competition

 

[TY43215]

I will limit my comment to the 325PD.

I bought one to use in IDPA before they raised the power factor. When they raised the power factor to 165, I shot it that way off and on for one full day while I worked a match to see how it would hold up.

After 500 rounds of 170PF reloads (Not full power ammo but stout) the gun was so loose, the cylinder would hit the forcing cone and not turn. The gun is made for carry but not for a steady diet of heavy loads.

I fixed the gun and sold it. I would not own one. I own 2 625s (5" & 4") and they are great.

Regards,



PS: I like serrated trigger and Miculek grips and can swap anyone's serrated trigger for smooth and I have spare rubber grips

RGS

 

[adweisbe]

After 500 rounds of 170PF reloads (Not full power ammo but stout) the gun was so loose, the cylinder would hit the forcing cone and not turn. The gun is made for carry but not for a steady diet of heavy loads.

Wow, and they sell a .44 Magnum version of the gun! They should really be up front with the limitations on the intended usage. What power factor did you use before they raised it?

 

[EddieCoyle]

PS: I like serrated trigger and Miculek grips and can swap anyone's serrated trigger for smooth and I have spare rubber grips

RGS

Too late! Thanks for the info. I almost bought a Model 357 (same lightweight frame - but in .41 Mag). Now I'm glad I passed.

 

[TY43215]

Wow, and they sell a .44 Magnum version of the gun! They should really be up front with the limitations on the intended usage. What power factor did you use before they raised it?

They know the limitations and will advise anyone that asks that they are not "Target" guns or competition guns. They have an intended purpose. Most shooters they sell these to will not put 500 rounds through them in 10 years never mind 6 hours.

IDPA Power factor for SSR prior to the moving of moonclip guns to ESR was 125 (same as USPSA Minor) It was a great gun for that PF but not for the 165.

Regards,

 

[TY43215]

Too late! Thanks for the info. I almost bought a Model 357 (same lightweight frame - but in .41 Mag). Now I'm glad I passed.

If you ever want to modify any more, let me know. I work for components

 

[Executive]

Thanks for the info. Now reconsidering my choice...

 

[adweisbe]

Does the same thinking apply to the scandium and aluminum snubbies? I would never bother exceeding 38+P with them and would probably go with .38 for practice. I can't carry on my current license, but if that changes a 642 is first on the list.

 

[TY43215]

Does the same thinking apply to the scandium and aluminum snubbies? I would never bother exceeding 38+P with them and would probably go with .38 for practice. I can't carry on my current license, but if that changes a 642 is first on the list.

I carry and shoot a 357MAG Airlight Ty snub nose and have had no issues. I will just add that I only shoot enough to stay proficient. I do not think any light weight snub is made for a lot of firing. BUT that is just my opinion others may think different.

If you want to become proficient with a J fram snub nose revolver, I suggest you start with a Model 60 and shoot the hell out of it. They are made to take it.

 

[adweisbe]

I wonder what is different about a revolver or at least the current designs that make them not suitable for use with aluminum? Semi-autos have been going at it for at least 30 years with aluminum frames and they have proven to be quite durable.

 

[TY43215]

I wonder what is different about a revolver or at least the current designs that make them not suitable for use with aluminum? Semi-autos have been going at it for at least 30 years with aluminum frames and they have proven to be quite durable.

It has nothing to do with not being suitable. It is mostly frames for semi autos not the breech face that is light weight. The current design of revolvers is the same design they have had for a long time with only minor modifications. Revolvers were first made light weight in the 50s The S&W Air Crew man, later Colt made the Agent. it is not new technology but they were not made for a lot of use, they were made for carry and self defense.

The cylinders and parts of the cylinders take a beating. The hands of the shooter take a beating also. Light weight semi autos loose a lot of the banging sensation with the slide and springs.

Regards,