Seating bullet in a lubed case

[Joseph Bonavita]

New to reloading here. I would like to keep prepped brass ready to go in boxes. Id like to follow these steps but not sure if its a proper procedure. It seems everyone is different. Im trying to avoid washing off the case lube. Does anyone press with case lube still on the brass?

Pop out primer( just primer not resizer)
Wash (soapy water)
Tumble
Resize
Trim (if needed)
Debur head and pocket if needed
Prime
Powder
Bullet press

 

[daekken]

I never tumble again after sizing. Make sure your chosen case lube does not affect the primer or powder, though.

 

[headednorth]

I go through my whole process with lube still on the case. Last thing I do is tumble completed rounds to get the lube off. Probably not necessary and it seems lots of guys dont bother but for whatever reason it bothers me enough that the finished rounds are sticky that its worth it to me to get the lube off.

 

[BTSDOG]

My process is......For rifle
1.Decap-single stage
2.Wet Tumble
3.Swage primer pocket if needed
4.Anneal if needed
5.Size on a dillon 550, size only.
6.Vibratory clean lube off
7.Trim if needed
8.Prime and load on Dillon 550

Keep it segregated/clean, so next reload is totally progessive on dillon 550. Then clean lube off with a towel.....
I like to do lots of 1000 to 1500

 

[38ExtraSpecial]

I use Dillon case lube before sizing. I don’t mind going a little heavy with it because I always tumble after resizing. I could go light but it doesn’t make sense to me. Better to have more lube and not stick a case in the die.

I don’t want any lube on the cases when I’m done. Wether I went heavy or light on lube I would still tumble.

If I’m loading on a progressive then I put a lee universal decapping die in the first station to poke out any media that might be stuck in the flash hole.
If not then I’ll just eyeball each case as I go and use a pick or something to pop out the media if it’s stuck in there.
I guess I could go the way that @headednorth does and just tumble as a last step but in the back of my mind I always remember an article I read. The writer said that his buddy claimed that tumbling finished cartridges would break up the powder and change the burn rate. He decided to test it out and found that it powder didn’t break down but what it did so was act like stainless tumbling media and cleaned all of the nasty carbon out of the inside of the case. Leaving a mess of ground up carbon mixed with the powder.
The thought of that didn’t sit well with me, it may not be rational but it’s there.

 

[Queen Bee]

i tumble after FL resizing. i too hate the feel of unique case lube on the brass for reloading

 

[Uzi2]

You would be well advised to buy and read a reloading manual or two and get familiar with the whole process.

Nothing wrong with keeping lubed, sized and primed cases.

What caliber are you starting out with?

 

[Joseph Bonavita]

Thank u for the responses. Im starting with .223 and 5.56. Id like to see if i can make a load slow enough to hit steel without pock marks at close distances. Im not really looking for match grade yet. Ill need to invest in some 6.5 creed dies soon though!

 

[mac1911]

Thank u for the responses. Im starting with .223 and 5.56. Id like to see if i can make a load slow enough to hit steel without pock marks at close distances. Im not really looking for match grade yet. Ill need to invest in some 6.5 creed dies soon though!

If your looking for light loads in the AR you can try H4895 . Per hodgdons instructions.
The reduced loads may or maynot cycle in your AR. If you really want to save on your steel run cast loads in your AR. I hope to get a heavier bullet mold soon for my AR cast loads. i was given some lee Cast 223 to use and came up with a functional load.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...FjABegQIEhAG&usg=AOvVaw2NOvnZearGn4fjeTV0qqVd

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You can make it easy on yourself and load fragmenting bullets-_I cant say for sure if they wont mark your steel. They are more expensive than your intended use? I personally do not like shooting steel closer than 50 yards with FMJ rifle rounds.

 

[Uzi2]

Thank u for the responses. Im starting with .223 and 5.56. Id like to see if i can make a load slow enough to hit steel without pock marks at close distances. Im not really looking for match grade yet. Ill need to invest in some 6.5 creed dies soon though!

Be aware that case trimming is important when using reloads in a semi auto rifle like the AR.

I wouldn't be too concerned with pock marks in a target, they all get beat up, it's just a fact if life. Just paint them and move on.

If you are using AR400 or AR500 steel, and lead core jacketed bullets, those two types of steel targets should last a very long time. They will take a beating, especially if it's 1/2 inch thick.

Mild steel will almost always pock no matter what with rifle rounds and jacketed pistol bullets.

Watch out for ricochets close in.

 

[NavelOfficer]

Id like to see if i can make a load slow enough to hit steel without pock marks at close distances.

You should simply change bullets; use frangibles. You can shoot them at point blank range essentially.
Having said that, I have run the Sinterfire type bullets in an AR at 6" (more like 3" really) and they did make divots in my steel plate. However, I have no idea what grade of steel my 1" plate is. At more realistic distances, I suspect you'll have little damage to the steel, plus minimized ricochet hazard.
Come down and try some, if in my area. Shoot onsite. Three varieties in .223, some others in .308" and .311" diameter (I can demonstrate the .30 caliber rounds, but I don't shoot a .223 any more).


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