Range day today. No pictures, sorry.
Rifle: Savage 10 FCP-SR, accustock, accutrigger, no modifications except for replacing one of the front swivels with a pic rail. Action was never removed from the stock. Rifle was last shot in 08/2018.
Range: 100 yards, no wind, 45 degrees, sunny. Shooting of a bench with a 9-13(?) inch Harris bipod and a rear bag. Strap on cheek riser. Switched to front bag later on.
Scope: Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18, MOA, reticle with subtentions.
Ammo: Gold Medal match 175, Hornady match 178, and PPU soft point 150 grain.
History: weapon system bought new in 2017 and didn't see much use. The first zero was ridiculous. Our own Allahsnackbar finally figured out that the thread protector shook loose and was screwing with accuracy.
Cold bore shot was 4"@10 o'clock. I wasn't expecting a great zero after the rifle had spent 1.5 years without a round through it, but come on! Subsequent shots were consistently 3"+ at 10:30. A 3" group at 10@ yard with match ammo is kinda not acceptable. That's not even hunting accurate in my book.
Seeing that the rifle was throwing boolitz all over the place, I, at some point, gave up chasing zero. The thread protector was removed before starting, btw.
3 weeks ago, I was zeroing my AR build at 50 with 55gr Fiocchi bulk and was shooting .5 to .75 inch groups, so, although I'm a far cry from a precision shooter, I know I'm better than what I did today.
Notes: I noticed that I couldn't get comfortable Behring the gun to save my ass from drowning. Too much of a length of pull. When I turned up the magnification and I had to move my noggin forward, it just got worse. The scope was shadowing the bejeezus out of me. The hand position wasn't exactly satisfactory either, but I could work with that.
My questions: I am considering either the MDT Oryx chassis or the XLR element. Anyone has input on those?
My bolt shows significant wear on the underside and after 300+ rounds, the action hasn't even started smoothing out. Any guesses on that?
Thanks in advance
Frenchman.
Rifle: Savage 10 FCP-SR, accustock, accutrigger, no modifications except for replacing one of the front swivels with a pic rail. Action was never removed from the stock. Rifle was last shot in 08/2018.
Range: 100 yards, no wind, 45 degrees, sunny. Shooting of a bench with a 9-13(?) inch Harris bipod and a rear bag. Strap on cheek riser. Switched to front bag later on.
Scope: Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18, MOA, reticle with subtentions.
Ammo: Gold Medal match 175, Hornady match 178, and PPU soft point 150 grain.
History: weapon system bought new in 2017 and didn't see much use. The first zero was ridiculous. Our own Allahsnackbar finally figured out that the thread protector shook loose and was screwing with accuracy.
Cold bore shot was 4"@10 o'clock. I wasn't expecting a great zero after the rifle had spent 1.5 years without a round through it, but come on! Subsequent shots were consistently 3"+ at 10:30. A 3" group at 10@ yard with match ammo is kinda not acceptable. That's not even hunting accurate in my book.
Seeing that the rifle was throwing boolitz all over the place, I, at some point, gave up chasing zero. The thread protector was removed before starting, btw.
3 weeks ago, I was zeroing my AR build at 50 with 55gr Fiocchi bulk and was shooting .5 to .75 inch groups, so, although I'm a far cry from a precision shooter, I know I'm better than what I did today.
Notes: I noticed that I couldn't get comfortable Behring the gun to save my ass from drowning. Too much of a length of pull. When I turned up the magnification and I had to move my noggin forward, it just got worse. The scope was shadowing the bejeezus out of me. The hand position wasn't exactly satisfactory either, but I could work with that.
My questions: I am considering either the MDT Oryx chassis or the XLR element. Anyone has input on those?
My bolt shows significant wear on the underside and after 300+ rounds, the action hasn't even started smoothing out. Any guesses on that?
Thanks in advance
Frenchman.