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Question about 30-30 projectiles

I wouldn't hesitate to shoot pointed bullets in my 30-30. Load one in the chamber and one in the magazine. No worries over chain fires, and you get two shots with the bullet you prefer.
Perfect for hunting. If you need more than two shots your bullet design is the least of your problems.
 
As a follow up to my OP, I went out the 3rd day of rifle season and took a 140 pound doe at 135 yards with my 30-30...dropped her in her tracks. Using a 175gr bullet, factory load. Longest kill shot I've ever made with my 30-30. I put the bullet right through her right scapula into her "fuse box".
 
I wouldn't hesitate to shoot pointed bullets in my 30-30. Load one in the chamber and one in the magazine. No worries over chain fires, and you get two shots with the bullet you prefer.
Perfect for hunting. If you need more than two shots your bullet design is the least of your problems.
Noticed your moniker - TR? motorcycle or wind-dee mountain-road 4 wheel drifter?
 
As a follow up to my OP, I went out the 3rd day of rifle season and took a 140 pound doe at 135 yards with my 30-30...dropped her in her tracks. Using a 175gr bullet, factory load. Longest kill shot I've ever made with my 30-30. I put the bullet right through her right scapula into her "fuse box".
Downhill is tricky - shoot low or high... aim low but at 135 yds - where'd you place the front sight?
 
Downhill is tricky - shoot low or high... aim low but at 135 yds - where'd you place the front sight?
Downhill but only about 10 degrees or less. I zeroed the rifle's scope a week previously from my blind to about the point I dropped her. I aimed on her shoulder blade as that's where zero was at that distance and downhill angle. The hole in her scapula was exactly where I wanted it to be.
 
Triumph Bonneville T-120.
1200cc parallel Twin.
Awesome - 4 wheel TR2 long-door stock-rod set up for racing - used to scare Corvettes and Porches into pulling over and surrendering - go fast 'longer' into the turn - brake hard - point the nose at the inside WOT drift at the limit of tire adhesion into the next chicane... windy-mountain roads are addictive.
 
Downhill but only about 10 degrees or less. I zeroed the rifle's scope a week previously from my blind to about the point I dropped her. I aimed on her shoulder blade as that's where zero was at that distance and downhill angle. The hole in her scapula was exactly where I wanted it to be.
Took a moose on the Mosie River Quebec from a canoe at 300 yds down river Bang... and the Lyman super-target steamed up rain dripping off my eyelashes - finger wetted the glass for another quick... Bang - lucky he went into the river.

Towed him miles down river to camp in the dark using the stars and rush of rapids to stay deep - next morning skinned out... those two holes were < 3" apart - better to be lucky than good.

RNFB 180 gr Remington 30-06 don't get the respect they deserve.
 
Took a moose on the Mosie River Quebec from a canoe at 300 yds down river Bang... and the Lyman super-target steamed up rain dripping off my eyelashes - finger wetted the glass for another quick... Bang - lucky he went into the river.

Towed him miles down river to camp in the dark using the stars and rush of rapids to stay deep - next morning skinned out... those two holes were < 3" apart - better to be lucky than good.

RNFB 180 gr Remington 30-06 don't get the respect they deserve.
I've been kicking around buying a .308 or 30-06 rifle for hunting deer out here...most of the shots taken here are >75 yards, more typically 125-175 yards (or more). I proved to myself that my 30-30 will put down a deer at 135 yards with a single shot but that was a perfect shot...she was standing broadside to me and standing still. I knew with that round I had in the chamber, the shot distance was approaching the maximum distance I felt comfortable shooting a deer at.
 
I've been kicking around buying a .308 or 30-06 rifle for hunting deer
a ruger sfar is what you want. dunno if there is anything more light in 308 semi-autos. unless you are set on a bolt guns only.
 
a ruger sfar is what you want. dunno if there is anything more light in 308 semi-autos. unless you are set on a bolt guns only.
The only thing I don't like about SA's is many of them fling brass into the next county. I'm not sure about the SFAR. Also, the SFAR is north of $1000 new. A lot of money for a firearm I'd only being using a few times a year.

Because I reload, I try to keep all my brass. Bolt or lever actions don't tend to fling brass as far as SA's.
 
The only thing I don't like about SA's is many of them fling brass into the next county
for that i have a solution. :)
or any other one on the market, of course. there are plenty of them around. mine is the best, of course. :)
kidding.

a lot of modern hunting bolt guns getting to $1k mark. i tried to looked up a savage i saw somewhere before, but somehow it is not in the list below, dunno. odd.
 
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a ruger sfar is what you want. dunno if there is anything more light in 308 semi-autos. unless you are set on a bolt guns only.
Luck of the draw - got a beautiful Saka Varminter bull barrel in 308 and could never get better than 1.25" group at 100 yds and then a Remington 760 with stamped steel guts that put that Sako to shame... be nice if you could drive the gun before buying it.

Bolt guns are one shot killers... automatics are for making life dangerous in the dark for sappers in the wire... I'd try out an R model 77 in 30-06 and have two scopes 1 x 6 and 3 x 9 (or 4 x 14) but I do love my M1A NM with the 1 x 6 glass.
 
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a beautiful Saka Varminter bull barrel in 308 and could never get better than 1.25" group at 100 yds
ruger is not a wonder gun, its groups are typical for a pencil barrel ar. something like this, a 44gr varget on 175gr noslers, or may be tad worse:
1670968192924.png
 
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