New stock fitting

[r2nailer]

Where can I find info on fitting a new wood stock for my
model 7 hunting rifle?
I'm looking for barrell pressure point info, pros and cons
R2

 

[JohnFH]

look up "stock bedding". barrels are usually "free floated" or not making any contact with the stock.

 

[7.62x39]

look up "stock bedding". barrels are usually "free floated" or not making any contact with the stock.

Not necessarily, a lot of times when bedding a stock they use a single pressure point on the barrel to reduce harmonics.

 

[r2nailer]

I too always thought the barrel floated free.
But this NEW stock has a deliberet (sp) rise where the front
swivel mounts?
R2

 

[ephemeratta]

Who is the stock manufacturer and what type of stock?
Personally, on a 7 I'd just float it and seal it. And, if it's not already bedded then bed it.
You can call Remington and ask a tech if they purposely pinch the barrel at any point with their wood or kevlar stocks but I'd bet you'd be well off to float it.
Best of luck and post the finished pics if you can. Love to see it in it's new stock.

 

[JohnFH]

Not necessarily, a lot of times when bedding a stock they use a single pressure point on the barrel to reduce harmonics.

Problem is, if you build the contact point into the stock, you have to be sure it is in the right place, or it does more harm than good.

The long range shooters I shoot with, use an adjustable barrel band if they feel the need to adjust for harmonics, the majority just free float and adjust their loads for the best accuracy.

 

[r2nailer]

Ephemeratta,
It's a Remington stock, new, but with blems.
I'm taking off a syn stock infavor of walnut.
Maybe I should remount the syn and see if it touches
anywhere (doller bill slide).

Is bedding different from glass bedding?
Either way, I would like to learn how to do it.
I would like to find good info on doing it.
There's a lot of hacks posting on the web.
Or maybe just hire it done?
I've read about a smith in Maine who comes highly recomended
for working on M1A's
I have made furniture in the past, so wood is easy to me.


John,
The point of contact is already there from Remington.
Right at the swivel stud mounting hole.
I too thought free float is better, but I wanted to know
for sure before I just take a gouge to the stock.

 

[7.62x39]

r2n,

Go to the Brownell's site and do a search on acraglas.

 

[KMM696]

There are some good threads over on Savageshooters.com on stock bedding, but they won't have any specific Model 7 bedding info. There should be a Remington forum out there somewhere that has people that have worked this rifle before. It's not a difficult process, but is somewhat fussy. There are big differences in the various recommended epoxies, for instance - the end result is the same, but their viscocity is very different before they set up. I've bedded several Savage 10/110s and a couple Rugers, but never Remingtons.

There is a lot of handwork involved in bedding a rifle stock, which is why the mass production shops don't do it. If you sand out the bump in the barrel channel and free float the barrel, most rifles will shoot better. If yours doesn't, you can experiment with putting pressure back on the front of the barrel with electrical tape shims to see if putting the bump back in will help. If that is what your rifle needs, you can put a bump up front back in with bedding, or add an adjustable pressure screw, or try one of the other methods of bedding. That's where finding others who have bedded Model 7s will help - it may be that those rifles like a certain stock setup, or have setups they don't like. Beats doing all the R&D yourself!

 

[JohnFH]

Definetly check the clearance on the synthetic. I did a quick search on replacement stocks for your rifle, and 3 different manufacturers specified a full floating barrel with their replacement stocks.

The problem with the "bump" is even if it was put there by the manufacturer, doesn't mean it's in the right location or the right size. Every barrel is different.

My concern is if it's right above the swivel screw, it might be the screw is too deep and pushing up material. Have you tried backing out the screw a little?

 

[ephemeratta]

Ephemeratta,
It's a Remington stock, new, but with blems.
I'm taking off a syn stock infavor of walnut.
Maybe I should remount the syn and see if it touches
anywhere (doller bill slide).

Is bedding different from glass bedding?
Either way, I would like to learn how to do it.
I would like to find good info on doing it.
There's a lot of hacks posting on the web.
Or maybe just hire it done?
I've read about a smith in Maine who comes highly recomended
for working on M1A's
I have made furniture in the past, so wood is easy to me.


John,
The point of contact is already there from Remington.
Right at the swivel stud mounting hole.
I too thought free float is better, but I wanted to know
for sure before I just take a gouge to the stock.

+1 for bringing it to wood. I do enjoy some of the synthetic stocks, especially the mcmillans But I really like steel and wood.
But I don't mind a well worn wood stock, I don't shoot bench rest or any highpower competition, and I don't use it to make a living, so, a floated and bedded stock does very well by me.

I don't know your intention for the rifle, so, I may have jumped the gun with suggesting it be bedded. It may not be necessary for your purpose.
Glass bedding is the same as bedding. Bedding is the general term, where glass bedding implies you'll be filling up the stock where the action goes in with a goop that hardens up and forms a perfect mold of the action inside the sock. This may not be necessary at all.

The other common bedding type is pillar bedding. DIY pillar bedding involves drilling two holes in the stock and gluing in two thick metal cylinders to screw the action to.

There are stocks with block beds from a number of manufacturers for many of the actions out there that also provide a very stable cradle for the action.

This section (build it yourself) of NES has some threads where people bedded their stocks. You may want to look through those and contact the OP's with specific questions. Also, midwayusa probably has some books or DVD's on the subject.

I suspect the rise in the stock (both synthetic and wood) on an OEM rem model 7 is just extra material for the swivel stud to hold onto/structural support. Removing it could weaken the stock at that stud. If you use a sling or shoot in adverse weather, which includes any humid day in NE, I'd say float it. But as was mentioned check to make sure the stud isn't flush with the existing rise and or making barrel contact.

I say if you drop in the action and torque it down equally and it shoots well then Ii wouldn't go past that unless you're looking for a project. Which is a great thing too. Just make sure to document it with pics and share your work here

A quick note on harmonics. A 7's barrel will wobble as much as all other non-heavy barrel bolt will. pressure points on some stocks are made to reduce or tune this but my opinion is that a floated barrel is less influenced by fluctuations of the stock and the key is to find the loads that work best with that barreled action.

There's a lot of people on this board that have "been there and done that" and they'll be great resources for you if you search through the archives and then ask.
The people here are ridiculously knowledgeable and exceedingly helpful.

I apologize for the massive and long-winded post. I hope this helps