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New barrel installation on a Mauser K98 , poll added

Ok what cal should the new barrel be


  • Total voters
    23
Now I have been tossing around ideas for some custom engraving on the barrel shank but I might just go with a simple Caliber designation.

I robbed this photo from the internet. Im not sure If I want to go 7.62 or 308 similar to this but on the barrel shank.
1611801258574.png
 
Hope to get out soon with the 7.62 98K
i have some random 110s and 125s to try and im thinking some low recoil powder puffs next.
 
👍

Doing some sorting out of my own today- hope it goes well for you. Just had a new washer delivered so rest of the day is mine.
 
Much better, .030” to the left and much better. Did a little tiny more maybe .007” or 1/4 turn of the sight pusher.
1st 10 shots with random reloads I had kicking around. Then I put elevation up (I did not have my normal glasses) a bit to high and put 5 rounds of creedmore at the very top of the target. Honeslty with my eyes and the sights on a K98 im lucky to get 3 moa. Good enough for me and might even try it at vintage? B1E474E8-FA6A-43D9-A365-2ACDA3BFE590.jpeg B1E474E8-FA6A-43D9-A365-2ACDA3BFE590.jpeg C060469F-B0E8-4A27-847D-184E502C3F16.jpeg
 
I will have to say for a $100 surplus barrel its cleaning up well after use. My M1a and M1 with new barrels hold a lot of copper. This barrel took one good soak of wipe out and came clean.
There is some powder fouling left in the throat area but thats always a build up point.
 
Nice project and relatively quickly done, as far as these things tend to go. Good to hear that the bore cleans easily. Now all you need is a Star of David roll mark on the receiver. I would think that an Israeli Mauser would be kosher for CMP. [smile]
 
Nice project and relatively quickly done, as far as these things tend to go. Good to hear that the bore cleans easily. Now all you need is a Star of David roll mark on the receiver. I would think that an Israeli Mauser would be kosher for CMP. [smile]
they where issued in 308/7.62 BUT we know how cmp rules are.

will only shoot it at pembroke anyway and with those crappy german sights I wont be posting anything spectacular. For the next vintage its going most likely be my K31 but im not thrilled with those sights either. So I might bring 2 mausers for the Vintage and pray I can keep them in the black. I still have not shot my M96 off hand yet and those sights sorta suck also but at least they are big square sights.
 
Newb questions for a similar project, new Walther Lothar barrel for cheap Swede Mauser #2:

Propane torch and brass punch to remove sight base?
What solder to reinstall sight base?
Reinstall base after or before the cold blue for the whole barrel?

Might do for cheap Swede #1- I just need to figure out which one is worthy of preserving the most and rebarrel the other.
 
Newb questions for a similar project, new Walther Lothar barrel for cheap Swede Mauser #2:

Propane torch and brass punch to remove sight base?
What solder to reinstall sight base?
Reinstall base after or before the cold blue for the whole barrel?

Might do for cheap Swede #1- I just need to figure out which one is worthy of preserving the most and rebarrel the other.
I'm pretty sure you want bare metal to do the brazing. You could always blue it first and then buff off the blue in the are the sight will suit.
 
Newb questions for a similar project, new Walther Lothar barrel for cheap Swede Mauser #2:

Propane torch and brass punch to remove sight base?
What solder to reinstall sight base?
Reinstall base after or before the cold blue for the whole barrel?

Might do for cheap Swede #1- I just need to figure out which one is worthy of preserving the most and rebarrel the other.
When I pulled the sights off the original barrel it looked like there was no attempt to remove blue. I dont know if they blued the entire barrel and sights assembled or not.
The sights on the K98 where not a tight fit and I tinned the barrel first.
It takes a little practice to get the lead to stick. I cant explain it but if you let “air” get at the metal the lead wont stick.
The old sights came off at normal soldering temps. No “high temp silver”
K98 sights are backed up with set screw.
 
Little UPDATE

Decided to try a reduced load.
125 TNT 15 grains of TrailBoss
WAG on velocity 1700fps or so
Should be a fun load for Vintage
I know 3 shots does not exactly tell all but I can safely say that I can usually get a indication with quick tests.
A27ADE2E-13D8-4349-956C-F0FAFECD90D0.jpeg Same target same bullet BUT 35 grains H4895 …. I did not pull that high shot. DAD708CE-07ED-4C31-895F-E419E6AD5824.jpeg
 
Little UPDATE

Decided to try a reduced load.
125 TNT 15 grains of TrailBoss
WAG on velocity 1700fps or so
Should be a fun load for Vintage
I know 3 shots does not exactly tell all but I can safely say that I can usually get a indication with quick tests.
View attachment 542207Same target same bullet BUT 35 grains H4895 …. I did not pull that high shot.View attachment 542208
That's pretty good shooting at 10 yards. Wonder how it will do at 100?

[rofl] Nice work. Guess I should get off my ass and work on the Swede rebarrel project.
 
That's pretty good shooting at 10 yards. Wonder how it will do at 100?

[rofl] Nice work. Guess I should get off my ass and work on the Swede rebarrel project.
10 yards is even worse I cant see the target clearly at all from 10 yards!
With my shooting RX really f***s with that sub 30 yard target clarity…. f***ing eyes!

Wait maybe tou got the wrong goggles on!
32796D4E-FD98-4894-AF40-05C9CD07AAEE.png
 
10 yards is even worse I cant see the target clearly at all from 10 yards!
With my shooting RX really f***s with that sub 30 yard target clarity…. f***ing eyes!

Wait maybe tou got the wrong goggles on!
View attachment 542588
Yeah, yeah- just poking fun. I think the problem with all those 4895 light loads is case fill. I have a set of reloads w/ 110's and 4895. I think i'll pull them and try TB.
 
Yeah, yeah- just poking fun. I think the problem with all those 4895 light loads is case fill. I have a set of reloads w/ 110's and 4895. I think i'll pull them and try TB.
I know getting fill to capacity is supposed to help but when I use 2400 for the cast loads its very surprising how consistent over the crony they where.
 
I know getting fill to capacity is supposed to help but when I use 2400 for the cast loads its very surprising how consistent over the crony they where.
Did you use lead shims or some other shim material for the barrel and/or the receiver? I picked up one of these on a discount code & it appears to be a solid unit-

be1127-72eda0402a93899735c9b44dc90b5e58.jpg

It's quite a bit larger than it looks in the pic. Karma workbench from @TrashcanDan is solid enough to mount it. I have an action wrench on order. Should fit small ring Mauser.

For folks following this thread, I saw Mac's cold blue job on this barrel. Looks great and 'right' for the Mauser. Will be doing the same for a Lothar Walther barrel going on my roughest Swede.
 
Did you use lead shims or some other shim material for the barrel and/or the receiver? I picked up one of these on a discount code & it appears to be a solid unit-

be1127-72eda0402a93899735c9b44dc90b5e58.jpg

It's quite a bit larger than it looks in the pic. Karma workbench from @TrashcanDan is solid enough to mount it. I have an action wrench on order. Should fit small ring Mauser.

For folks following this thread, I saw Mac's cold blue job on this barrel. Looks great and 'right' for the Mauser. Will be doing the same for a Lothar Walther barrel going on my roughest Swede.
I used oak blocks with Rosin
Just like this

View: https://youtu.be/H9IehOwCyXU
 
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