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New barrel installation on a Mauser K98 , poll added

Ok what cal should the new barrel be


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mac1911

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I have a non matching 98k RC the bore is not that good. It still shoots ok for plinking but I would like to restore the accuracy to its potential.
Other than the reblue after installing the sights I can tool up to do it myself BUT depending on the total price a One Stop get it back and shoot it option is always considered.

Thinking a LW barrel maybe even in 308 ?

I dont need much in the way of tools. Just a finish reamer but I would probably rent that.

I would buy front and rear sight assemblies to make things easier.

Any go to Military Mauser smiths out there
 
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If the gun shoots fine, I'd leave it alone. Because of the current ammo situation, 7.62 NATO is around $2.00 a round. 8mm is like $0.85-1.50. Components for 7.62 NATO are probably all out of stock for the foreseeable future.

Its also important to remember that with milsurps, we're just their stewards. They're going to outlive us and many are older than us. So, I wouldn't do something to a milsurp that the next owner can't easily undo, and rebarreling a K98k to 8mm isn't going to be easy for someone else to do.

Finally, even if you do re-barrel, these guns are meant to be 3MOA shooters on average. 9-Hole Reviews was able to handload down to 1.5MOA:



 
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Maybe sell the RC and buy an authentic Israeli?
It does not shoot all that great and the bore is not "great" still shoots "ok" if it held minute of black of a SR consistently i would not bother.
The problem there is finding some place with a good selection to choose from. That I,can actually check out and bore scope. Im looking for a good shooter. This K98 needs cast loads with over sized bullets to shoot better. It shoots ok for a,plinker but I,would like better consistency out of it.
its a struggle to keep decent groups.
For what mausers are going for now I will still be ahead even If I paid someone to install a new barrel.
 
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If the gun shoots fine, I'd leave it alone. Because of the current ammo situation, 7.62 NATO is around $2.00 a round. 8mm is like $0.85-1.50. Components for 7.62 NATO are probably all out of stock for the foreseeable future.

Its also important to remember that with milsurps, we're just their stewards. They're going to outlive us and many are older than us. So, I wouldn't do something to a milsurp that the next owner can't easily undo, and rebarreling a K98k to 8mm isn't going to be easy for someone else to do.

Finally, even if you do re-barrel, these guns are meant to be 3MOA shooters on average. 9-Hole Reviews was able to handload down to 1.5MOA:




Heck I bet with the mil spec ammo 5 moa was GTG. With reloads alot of these surplus rifles given an good barrel can shoot below 3 moa.
I have not had a terrible time finding 308 or 8mm bullets. i have enough brass and powder for a good while. If things get worse I have cast bullets to turn to.
 
Heck I bet with the mil spec ammo 5 moa was GTG. With reloads alot of these surplus rifles given an good barrel can shoot below 3 moa.
I have not had a terrible time finding 308 or 8mm bullets. i have enough brass and powder for a good while. If things get worse I have cast bullets to turn to.

If you're worried about the barrel being shot out and you can already cast bullets, why not just use 8mm cast bullets? I see you made thread on this gun back in 2013:

M48 mauser barrel installed on K98.

Mouse fart 8mm cast loads would both make the gun easier shooting, thus maybe giving you more accuracy, and would probably be cheaper than an entire rebarrel and recaliber.
 
A gentleman at my MA club has a K98 redone in 30-06, I believe he said the previous barrel was shot out, or maybe he or whoever he got it from just preferred 30-06.

I still need a WWI Mauser...
 
A gentleman at my MA club has a K98 redone in 30-06, I believe he said the previous barrel was shot out, or maybe he or whoever he got it from just preferred 30-06.

I still need a WWI Mauser...

Norway converted a ton of K98ks to both .30-06 and 7.62 NATO. The Norwegian .30-06 conversions have a half-circle cut into the receiver ring to allow for using .30-06 stripper clips.

8x57 and .30-06 both use a 0.473" bolt face, so anything that fits and functions in the magazine and uses the same bolt face is possible, like 7x57, .270, 7.62 NATO, .243, etc.

I think that Mauser made the 93 to 98 series as modular as possible to make production easier for different clients. When you have clients ordering thousands if not millions of guns in multiple calibers, having the same bolt face was probably easier. And the M1903 in .30-06 is an evolution of the 1893 Mauser.


]View: https://youtu.be/5cDEUyxrdO0[/MEDIA]



]View: https://youtu.be/L-iNasbalZ4[/MEDIA]



]View: https://youtu.be/Jhh4wIS6zMI[/MEDIA]
 
And the M1903 in .30-06 is an evolution of the 1893 Mauser.

'Evolution' is a kind word lol, we copied it and had to pay a judgement after being sued over it.

On April 5 1905 the Treasury approved royalty payments of 75 cents per rifle plus 50 cents per thousand clips, up to a ceiling of $200,000. Seven months later, on November 6, Mauser’s accountants were pleased to receive the first (for $11,367.53) in a four-year-long series of checks adding up to the $200,000 maximum.
 
If you're worried about the barrel being shot out and you can already cast bullets, why not just use 8mm cast bullets? I see you made thread on this gun back in 2013:

M48 mauser barrel installed on K98.

Mouse fart 8mm cast loads would both make the gun easier shooting, thus maybe giving you more accuracy, and would probably be cheaper than an entire rebarrel and recaliber.
Yes This gun took a safe nap for a few years Because even cast are not shooting that well. Theres just not alot of rifling left.
heres my slow prone from sunday
F7840B3B-BBB2-4791-80C5-18C957DF7ECE.jpeg
 
So i have a mauser action wrench coming , i was going to try my M1/M1carbine/1903 3 way wrench but it does not grab 360' and with some saying the mausers can be super tight i dont want to slip or put the pressure to be more isolated to one area which the 3 way can do. I have head space gauges but im not sure if i have just a field gauge or the no go/ go set. Been a while.
Im still undecided on 308 vs 8mm - im not looking to preserve collector value but I want to retain original configuration. Even if its a 762 clone
The prices on mausers at the moment are more than barrel replacement even by a gun smith.
Right now if i where to send it out the few quotes I recieved so far put me at about $1000 plus shipping.
 
It Begins, I had the day off today and the kids had enough of me by noon time.
All stripped down except trigger group. The sights came off easy. Even with the OMG of some out there on the nest saying it was hard and the heat will ruin the blue. Well I used my propane torch and the laser thermometer. The bond broke right around 380-400'F the front sight fell right off as soon as it came to temp. The rear sight had some rust under it and took a little smack to get it free. My Fear was the front sight set screw its very small and figured it would be seized. After modifying a bit to fit the narrow hole it came right out.
IIRHlmkm.jpg
 
If the gun shoots fine, I'd leave it alone. Because of the current ammo situation, 7.62 NATO is around $2.00 a round. 8mm is like $0.85-1.50. Components for 7.62 NATO are probably all out of stock for the foreseeable future.

Its also important to remember that with milsurps, we're just their stewards. They're going to outlive us and many are older than us. So, I wouldn't do something to a milsurp that the next owner can't easily undo, and rebarreling a K98k to 8mm isn't going to be easy for someone else to do.

Finally, even if you do re-barrel, these guns are meant to be 3MOA shooters on average. 9-Hole Reviews was able to handload down to 1.5MOA:





It does not shoot fine thats the problem. A gun that cant shoot irks the hell out of me. If I go 7.62 I wont be shooting NATO offerings out of it. I will shoot reloads. Im not so concerened what happens to my guns milsurp or otherwise once im dead.

It will not be hard for someone to rebarrel this to 8mm if I decide to go 7.62 it will just require some $$$.
I think Once im done, do a little stock fitting, smooth up the trigger and put the square post front sight and square notch rear sight on so I can see the sights a little better sub 2 moa groups with good hand loads wont be to hard to get to.
 
LOVE the 308 myself, have a non-Israeli K98 rebarreled to 308, but also one ‘bring back’ from the liberation of Pilsen, CZ in 8x57mm too. They both love cast loads, 16-grns 2400 in the ‘08 & 18.5-grns in the 8x57 Mauser, cast boolits by Gardners Cache (~16-cents each delivered). Both will hold nickel-sized groups @ 50-yards ... right at the lands, slight Lee factory crimp die crimp.
 
Norway converted a ton of K98ks to both .30-06 and 7.62 NATO. The Norwegian .30-06 conversions have a half-circle cut into the receiver ring to allow for using .30-06 stripper clips.

8x57 and .30-06 both use a 0.473" bolt face, so anything that fits and functions in the magazine and uses the same bolt face is possible, like 7x57, .270, 7.62 NATO, .243, etc.

I think that Mauser made the 93 to 98 series as modular as possible to make production easier for different clients. When you have clients ordering thousands if not millions of guns in multiple calibers, having the same bolt face was probably easier. And the M1903 in .30-06 is an evolution of the 1893 Mauser.


]View: https://youtu.be/5cDEUyxrdO0[/MEDIA]



]View: https://youtu.be/L-iNasbalZ4[/MEDIA]



]View: https://youtu.be/Jhh4wIS6zMI[/MEDIA]

Like he says, lots of cartridges will work with that boltface. If you reload, the world is your oyster. Personally I'd go for somtheing smaller like a a .243 or .260. Great long range accuracy and easier on the shoulder. The .243 can be loaded for deer or varmints.
 
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Make

Like he says, lots of cartridges will work with that boltface. If you reload, the world is your oyster. Personally I'd go for somtheing smaller like a a .243 or .260. Great long range accuracy and easier on the shoulder. The .243 can be loaded for deer or varmints.
I was thinking of something different but im already on track to consolidate my reloading. Im not adding any different cals at this point.
i was thinking 6.5 swede but that requires a bit more work than I would want to do.
Would need to open the bolt face up a tad and i dont have a mill or lathe. Im still not 100% on 308vs 8mm
I would need to buy or rent 8mm finish reamer and go gauge.
I was running cast through it for some time.
200 gn .325" gas checked and lubed with 2500+
2400 powder. They shot better than fmj but not by much. i bought this RC k98 knowing the bore was a bit rough . i was thinking of re barrel even back then. Other things came up over the years.

8mm is gaining in end choice.
308 can have some feeding issues. Sourcing the 308 mag plate spring and modified trigger guards juzt adds to the cost.
 
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Thanks Tim,
already have field gauge and the current barrel almost swallows it. i need a go gauge to do the final chamber ream. I csn rent the reamer and gauges or spend the $200 is for reamer and gauge. Im a tool nut so I dont mind buying tools. Although I dont see doing another 8mm again.
My cmp action wrench will do mauser actions but im not thrilled with the fit. Ive done ahandful of 1903s with it but so far they have not been on that tight.
Theres a few mods for the 308 to ensure good feeding. Staying with 8mm does away with that issue
 
I was thinking of something different but im already on track to consolidate my reloading. Im not adding any different cals at this point.
i was thinking 6.5 swede but that requires a bit more work than I would want to do.
Would need to open the bolt face up a tad and i dont have a mill or lathe. Im still not 100% on 308vs 8mm
I would need to buy or rent 8mm finish reamer and go gauge.
I was running cast through it for some time.
200 gn .325" gas checked and lubed with 2500+
2400 powder. They shot better than fmj but not by much. i bought this RC k98 knowing the bore was a bit rough . i was thinking of re barrel even back then. Other things came up over the years.

8mm is gaining in end choice.
308 can have some feeding issues. Sourcing the 308 mag plate spring and modified trigger guards juzt adds to the cost.
so looking at the barrel it looks like they blued the barrel then removed the blue where the sights are soldered on?
This is where im going to find my biggest hurdle.
do I assembly the barrel and sights then have the barrel an sights blued or blue the barrel and install the sights after? Im not after perfect blue job and Im not doing the reciever over. Heck I might just blue it myself?
 
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You can blue it yourself. It's not all that difficult. Id blue the barrel first, mark where the sights go and remove the bluing in that area (just like they did), then sweat the sights on.
 
so looking at the barrel it looks like they blued the barrel then removed the blue where the sights are soldered on?
This is where im going to find my biggest hurdle.
do I assembly the barrel and sights then have the barrel an sights blued or blue the barrel and install the sights after? Im not after perfect blue job and Im not doing the reciever over. Heck I might just blue it myself?

You can blue it yourself. It's not all that difficult. Id blue the barrel first, mark where the sights go and remove the bluing in that area (just like they did), then sweat the sights on.

Mark Novak on YouTube has a bunch of videos of how to blue whole guns and parts. I believe for long things like barrels or barreled actions, he uses a strip of gutter.
 
Mark Novak on YouTube has a bunch of videos of how to blue whole guns and parts. I believe for long things like barrels or barreled actions, he uses a strip of gutter.
He uses the gutter to boil the long parts which converts the hematite to magnetite for conservation purposes. For bluing he uses a steam chamber in the process of rust bluing. With rust bluing you could solder the parts on the barrel when in the white then blue the assembly as the heat isn't sufficient to melt the solder. Hot salt bluing will melt the solder.
 
You can blue it yourself. It's not all that difficult. Id blue the barrel first, mark where the sights go and remove the bluing in that area (just like they did), then sweat the sights on.
yeah , I've done small parts and a few junk pistols . i dont have tanks, or the space for them. Im thinking of rust blue I can make small humidity cabinet and I think I could muster up a boiling tank.

i need to find some junk to practice on. Heck I,might really irk the purist and cerakote it!
 
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