More questions on use of Nufinish

[bpm990d]

I've stuck more than a few with OneShot. I've almost given up on it, but have found that it works reasonably well if I follow this.

Clean the sizing die with something like brake cleaner and a patch. When it's dry, give the die a squirt with OneShot after you shake it up. Spray the cases with one shot, make sure to get all four sides. Wait for the one shot carrier to evaporate a minute or two.

I've been reasonably happy with this process and have not had any problems.

B

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

The only time I ever stuck a case was when using One-Shot.

Same here. It was the last time I used it too.

 

[Gammon]

I tried 5wt synthetic motor oil on the last batch of 223 brass that I resized. Worked great.

 

[powerman]

Wait for the one shot carrier to evaporate a minute or two

That maybe it. I was in more of a rush and hit the cases good (more than usual) with the one shot and went right to sizing, Besides nufinish that was the only difference. never stuck a 308 case before

5wt synthetic motor oil

i was also thinking about using oil on my mill 5.56/223 first time brass. its a bear.

 

[Romokid]

I had pretty good luck with Lee lube and Redding Imperial Sizing Die Wax.

 

[mac1911]

I ditched the one shot after a few to many stuck cases and just overall tough resizing. I have since switched to the RCBS lube dies, OMG like yeah know, like buttah. its a added step for me but its just is that much better for me.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

I tried 5wt synthetic motor oil on the last batch of 223 brass that I resized. Worked great.

I'd never risk the potential powder contamination with any type of synthetic or petroleum

Lanolin/alcohol based lubes are non contaminating. They're cheaper than synthetic motor oil and easier to apply from a spray bottle too. Couldn't even imagine rolling 5000 .223 case individually on a lube pad, its bad enough having ot handle the small bullets.

 

[IDPA Mike]

I dump them right from my range bag into the tumbler. I use corn cob media with a capful of Nufinish added every other run and a bit of mineral spirits when it starts to get too dusty.

Out of Nufinish and don't want to run to the store. Will Turtle wax 2001 liquid work, or is Nufinish the only liquid polish to use?
Mike

 

[EddieCoyle]

You don't need to use anything really.

 

[Ziptar]

Turtle Wax 2001 will work, basically the same as new finish.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

I don't know about the Turtle Wax 2001.

Here's what I do know about the NuFinish:

• It doesn't contain any wax. It uses a polymer to achieve the shine. Lasts longer, and no buildup after repeated treatments.
• It doesn't contain any gritty material. Some "polishes" are really more like a polishing compound. If the application requires allowing it to dry, and than after removing the haze, you have paint color on your rag, it's liely that it contains microscopic grit. Not good for brass. NuFinish does NOT contain any grit material.
• Some waxes/polishes also contain a chemical (alkaline) to break down surface oxidation of the paint itself. That chemical will cause fast deterioration of brass, causing it to turn green quickly. NuFinish does not contain any alkaline or other chemicals which would cause the brass to deteriorate.

So, I'll stick with the NuFinish. Target occasionally has a deal on NuFinish. Last time it was a +20% bottle, and was only $5 each. I bought several.

I now pre-mix the NuFinish/mineral spirits, and that saves time dispensing it. Just enough (a few cap fulls of the premix) to very slightly dampen the media. I apply every time I tumble, and it also helps to keep the dust in the bowl down, as E/C suggested.

 

[Ziptar]

I took a look at the MSDSs for Nu-Finish and Turtle Wax Finish 2001.

http://www.nufinish.com.au/pdfs/MSDS Nu Finish Car Polish.pdf

http://www.turtlewax.com/upload/msdp/T027R-0910$48bf4e7ce000fbb9.pdf

Should be fine, they both use Stoddard solvent. Turtle Wax doesn't list and waxes or Alkalies. It does list Mineral Turpentine where the Nu-Finish doesn't.


This has got me confused though, I'd never looked before, the Nu-Finish MSDS lists "Ceramic Microspheres". I'm no scientist but, ceramic is a grit isn't it? Like Duke I'd always thought Nu-Finish didn't have grit. They are "Microspheres" maybe its a really fine abrasive for removing swirl marks?

 

[DukeInFlorida]

Just great! Now, I'm liking NuFinish even less............

The two components of the Turtle Wax product only add up to 13% of the total. How the heck can they get away with not listing the other 87% of the product?

Unless the other 87% of the Turtle Wax stuff is H[SUB]2[/SUB]0...

 

[Ziptar]

Just great! Now, I'm liking NuFinish even less............

The two components of the Turtle Wax product only add up to 13% of the total. How the heck can they get away with not listing the other 87% of the product?

Unless the other 87% of the Turtle Wax stuff is H[SUB]2[/SUB]0...

The other 87% is "Proprietary" . Nu-Finish lists water in the last section for the State of new Jersey. Honestly, I've looked at enough of these now that it seems there is no real standard format, they just put whatever they like I think.

BTW: I Googled the CAS (Chemical Abstracts Service Registry) for the "Ceramic Microspheres" 66402-68-4. it comes up as being used in everything from facial treatments, polishing compounds, paint hardeners, even sand paper. . It's given lots of names like "China Clay", Calcined Kaolin Clay, Anhydrous aluminum silicate, and a 3M Brand name of Cubitron™.

3M™ Cubitron™ Abrasive Grain is a ceramic aluminum oxide mineral designed by 3M using a patented sol gel process to enhance fracture toughness and hardness of the grain.

Abrasives made with Cubitron grain have exceptional durability and improved cutting efficiencies. High performance and long-lasting. Cubitron grain cuts fast and can stand up to high pressure production environments in use on the toughest materials.

Like This example: http://www.fastenal.com/web/msds/getmsds.ex?sku=0826003

Again, not a scientist but, that sure as heck sounds like scratchy abrasive grit to me, I could be wrong though.

 

[drgrant]

Oh noes! Ceramic microspheres!!!!!

Not going to make me stop using it. It works well.

-Mike

 

[mac1911]

pull the data sheets for the "tumbling media polish" that the reloading manufactures are putting out ? NuFinish and oderless mineral spirits is working for me. I have 2 big bottles of NuFinish......my brass comes out nice and clean and no dust!

 

[Gammon]

I tumble my rifle brass after resizing/decapping so I don't see any real danger of contamination. I apply the synthetic motor oil to a sheet of paper towel, place it and the brass in a gallon ziplock bag and shake. I find that I can do 75 to 100 223 cases this way and apply just the right amount of lube; quick and easy.

I'd never risk the potential powder contamination with any type of synthetic or petroleum

Lanolin/alcohol based lubes are non contaminating. They're cheaper than synthetic motor oil and easier to apply from a spray bottle too. Couldn't even imagine rolling 5000 .223 case individually on a lube pad, its bad enough having ot handle the small bullets.

 

[Slowdive]

I'd never risk the potential powder contamination with any type of synthetic or petroleum

Lanolin/alcohol based lubes are non contaminating. They're cheaper than synthetic motor oil and easier to apply from a spray bottle too. Couldn't even imagine rolling 5000 .223 case individually on a lube pad, its bad enough having ot handle the small bullets.

I use Hornady Unique (not One Shot) case lube. I find there is enough residual lube on my hand such that even touching the cases when loading in the press is enough for .223 (I don't have a case feeder). With 45/70 I have to apply it more thoroughly, but I only load those 50 to 100 at a time.

 

[RugerSlinger]

I was just about to go out and buy more Lyman tufnut media and I read this thread and I decided to try this. I took some before and after pics and here they are.
Before;

And now after 2.5 hrs with half Corncob kitty litter and half walnut lizard bed some NuFinish and some thinner.

I am very impress with this and it is much cheaper than using Lymans media with the Dillon polish.

 

[DukeInFlorida]

That's why we're here!

Congrats on your new found tip!