Magnum Primers

[DirkDiggler]

So last night I picked up a box of CCI primers and didn't realize that they were for magnum pistols. I had bought them w/ the intention of reloading .40 S&W. Should I just go ahead and start reloading or should I return them? What would be the consequence of using a magnum primer as opposed to a non-mag primer? Any insight would be much appreciated.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Return them.

The .40 doesn't allow much room for error, and the magnum primers will cause the pressure to go up. How much it goes up depends on the powder and the charge weight, and is impossible to predict.

 

[DirkDiggler]

thanks bro, thats what i needed to hear.

 

[Kicker96FS]

Please explain this as I have been using magnum primers on my .40 for some time and they do indeed go boom, and my bullet hits the target with a consistent pattern.

I use CCI 550,and Winchester WSPM mag primers, 165 grain bullet, 5.0 grs. of Tight Group powder. So in essence I am loading it "lite" as you can max the powder to 5.4

 

[EddieCoyle]

Luck?

I don't know. Maybe Titegroup doesn't spike with a magnum primer. Why do you use them?

Like always, it's better to err on the side of caution when giving reloading advice. For all we know, the OP was going to use a bigger charge of a slower powder and fire it in a Glock.

 

[Kicker96FS]

Why do you use them?

Because I have a crapload of them........ And they work.

Like always, it's better to err on the side of caution when giving reloading advice. For all we know, the OP was going to use a bigger charge of a slower powder and fire it in a Glock.

I see your point, he didn't say what he was shooting them in or the finished bullet specs.

 

[DirkDiggler]

I'm going to err on the side of caution here. I'll be keeping the primers but not using them in the .40 cal.

FYI:
175 GR Bullet w/ a light load of 4.6

and yes as suspected they will be fired from a Glock.

Once again, thanks for the sound advice.

 

[Uncle Fester]

So last night I picked up a box of CCI primers and didn't realize that they were for magnum pistols. I had bought them w/ the intention of reloading .40 S&W. Should I just go ahead and start reloading or should I return them? What would be the consequence of using a magnum primer as opposed to a non-mag primer? Any insight would be much appreciated.

Glen, if you've got CCI 350's (large pistol magnum), I can trade you for CCI 300's (large pistol). Swing by the house tommorow, I'll leave them at the top of the stairs.

 

[HangEmHigh]

... fire it in a Glock.

Are you mentioning this because of the case support of the Glock 40? I am going to start loading .40 in the next couple of weeks for my Glock. Besides starting out light and watching for signs of overpressure, is there anything else I should know?

 

[drgrant]

Are you mentioning this because of the case support of the Glock 40? I am going to start loading .40 in the next couple of weeks for my Glock. Besides starting out light and watching for signs of overpressure, is there anything else I should know?

.40 Glock factory barrels usually damage brass, for one thing, so your headroom for error is pretty limited, especially if you're re-using already
damaged brass.

IMO anyone reloading .40 S+W for a Glock should get a KKM or other aftermarket barrel... if anything, at least to preserve the brass... an aftermarket barrel will also allow you to shoot lead safely, too.

-Mike

 

[EddieCoyle]

Are you mentioning this because of the case support of the Glock 40? I am going to start loading .40 in the next couple of weeks for my Glock. Besides starting out light and watching for signs of overpressure, is there anything else I should know?

Wear safety glasses.

Nobody really knows why Glock .40s blow up. Some (like fellow member Glockaholic) think bullet setback from chambering and rechambering the same round repeatedly causes an over pressure condition that causes the kBoom. He may be right, especially when the blowup occurs with factory ammo.

When reloads blow up a Glock .40, my favorite theory centers around the "Glock bulge". Because of the shape of the chamber, Glock-fired brass has a distinctive bulge on one side of the case. This bulge is not fully removed with most standard resizing dies. If the reloaded, now slightly bulged round is rechambered with the bulge in the same position relative to the chamber, the now work-hardened bulge can expand even further, resulting in a case head split and kBoom.

The solution is to be careful not to rechamber the same round too often, get a KKM Precision barrel with full chamber support, and/or an EGW undersized sizing die that will fully remove the Glock bulge.


ETA: Mike beat me to it.

 

[HangEmHigh]

Thanks for the responses Mike and Jim. I think Ill pick up an aftermarket barrel as you suggested and take it real slow working up a load.

 

[EddieCoyle]

I didn't mean to scare you. Thousands of Glock 40s have been made and only a handful have blown up. Plenty of people reload for them and use the stock barrel and never have a problem. Don't feel like you have to buy an aftermarket barrel.

 

[DirkDiggler]

I didn't mean to scare you. Thousands of Glock 40s have been made and only a handful have blown up. Plenty of people reload for them and use the stock barrel and never have a problem. Don't feel like you have to buy an aftermarket barrel.

It doesn't take much arm twisting to get me to spend money on a new gun or accessory.

 

[DirkDiggler]

Thanks for the responses Mike and Jim. I think Ill pick up an aftermarket barrel as you suggested and take it real slow working up a load.

One real benefit to getting an aftermarket barrel is not only limiting the likelihood of deforming/damaging brass but it allows you to shoot unjacketed (lead) bullets w/o any risk to yourself of your gun. Plus, who doesn't want a stainless barrel? It's badass.

Also, when reloading use a die that resizes the entire case (like a Lee). That should take care of the "bulge" that Eddie was talking about.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Also, when reloading use a die that resizes the entire case (like a Lee). That should take care of the "bulge" that Eddie was talking about.

You'd think so, but a regular Lee die doesn't do it.

 

[Steve_P]

You'd think so, but a regular Lee die doesn't do it.

Yea, I guess it has something to do with the lead-in radius on the die. Doesn't allow sizing completely down to the shell-plate.

I've read that an EGW die is just a standard Lee die that has been ground down to remove the lead in. Don't know the truth behind that, as I don't own one.
I wouldn't suggest trying to grind one down yourself due to the carbide sizer ring.

Steve

 

[DirkDiggler]

Yea, I guess it has something to do with the lead-in radius on the die. Doesn't allow sizing completely down to the shell-plate.

I've read that an EGW die is just a standard Lee die that has been ground down to remove the lead in. Don't know the truth behind that, as I don't own one.
I wouldn't suggest trying to grind one down yourself due to the carbide sizer ring.

Steve

If this is something that you are truly concerned with take a look at the EGW site:

http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=40&products_id=40&zenid=82b7126932c730d584b589161ebd2cd6

 

[EddieCoyle]

The EGW is a modified Lee die. I believe it has a different (smaller ID, and differently shaped) carbide ring installed

 

[Kicker96FS]

Glen, if you've got CCI 350's (large pistol magnum), I can trade you for CCI 300's (large pistol). Swing by the house tommorow, I'll leave them at the top of the stairs.

.40 S&W take small primers. #500 or 550 would be the mag size.

On a side note, I went to my buddies this week and shot 100 rounds of the "mag primed" .40 S&W, and took note of the back of the shell after firing, no mushroom at the primer and no bulge at the tail end of the shell case. Shells are still in spec. after firing. Got to love my Beretta.

 

[Uncle Fester]

.40 S&W take small primers. #500 or 550 would be the mag size.

On a side note, I went to my buddies this week and shot 100 rounds of the "mag primed" .40 S&W, and took note of the back of the shell after firing, no mushroom at the primer and no bulge at the tail end of the shell case. Shells are still in spec. after firing. Got to love my Beretta.

Ahhh, see I don't have anything in .40, nor do I reload .40. I just assumed it was the same thing as the 10mm.

 

[gerrycaruso]

I have Winchester large pistol primers that say "for standard and magnum loads". I have no primers in any other size from any other maker that says that. I don't know how they can work well for both but that's what it says.

 

[BIG GUN]

I do normally use CCI mag primers when using ball slow burning powders, but have used Win. primers without incident but did not chronograph for comparison.

 

[Dick]

I have Winchester large pistol primers that say "for standard and magnum loads". I have no primers in any other size from any other maker that says that. I don't know how they can work well for both but that's what it says.

They can work well for both - as can any brand of primer - because it's not the type of load (i.e., "standard" or "magnum" - assuming those terms have any objective meaning, which they don't really), but rather [primarily] the type of powder that dictates standard vs. magnum primer use.

Some powders, ball powders being the best known, are harder to ignite and often a magnum primer is specified even the load may otherwise be "standard." Easy-to-ignite powders can get by just fine with a standard primer even though the volume of powder in the recipe might otherwise result in the load being termed "magnum."