How to re-black a leather holster

[timbo]

That makes sense. The general crackdown on the production of said item in the US has lead to that item mostly needing to be brought in from somewhere else with lower standards. I feel like this is a recurring theme.

Yes and it's made the price of good leather items skyrocket in price...I have two Schott leather biker jackets I bought maybe 15 years ago...I paid less than $200 each for them...same jacket is now $950 or more, depending on size. I bought them at the leather store that used to be where Shooters Outpost is now.

I bought two of these, one a little larger than the other so I can wear a sweatshirt under the larger one when it's chilly outside:

Classic Perfecto® Leather Motorcycle Jacket 118

www.schottnyc.com

 

[Qwikdraw45]

Ya learn something every day! Next time I'm in town, I'll buy some if the stuff I ordered doesn't work.

Probably not going to work. I tried that instead of polish "back in the day". IIRC, it cracked and flaked off. Not really a dye at all. Maybe good for a quick coat on top of a buff shine to give a bried "spit shine" look, but very fragile.

 

[Matt_SERE]

Probably not going to work. I tried that instead of polish "back in the day". IIRC, it cracked and flaked off. Not really a dye at all. Maybe good for a quick coat on top of a buff shine to give a bried "spit shine" look, but very fragile.

View attachment 763279

That sucks. Are you sure you didn't use Heel and Edge Dressing by mistake? You describe exactly what would happen. Matt

 

[Qwikdraw45]

That sucks. Are you sure you didn't use Heel and Edge Dressing by mistake? You describe exactly what would happen. Matt
View attachment 763289

(Used the wrong picture) but tried both.

 

[ToddDubya]

Buy a new one? Honestly if your at the point of re-blacking i would worry about the retention of the holster. Leather wears out and that would worry me with an nd

Flinty answers only.

Bum a teaspoon of black dye off a neighbor.

 

[Matt_SERE]

After picking up a Saddleback brand briefcase from a fellow NES member the only other products I use other than KIWI brand is Chamberlain's brand. Love it.
Leather Briefcase | Satchel Laptop Bag | Saddleback
Seriously an heirloom piece.
Chamberlain's Leather Milk
Available lots of places.

 

[Rat187]

Preparing to restoring this 115 year old WWI 1911 holster, notice no dye cracking even on stress points, Bought some Conlleys leather Hide Restorer and neatsfoot oil....going slow

 

[FisherTech]

View attachment 763473 Preparing to restoring this 115 year old WWI 1911 holster, notice no dye cracking even on stress points, Bought some Conlleys leather Hide Restorer and neatsfoot oil....going slow

Go easy on the neatsfoot oil, as it will make the leather very soft and the holster will not keep shape. I ruined a good holster with that oil.

 

[Rat187]

Go easy on the neatsfoot oil, as it will make the leather very soft and the holster will not keep shape. I ruined a good holster with that oil.

Not rushing into anything but thanks for the warning. Apparently this holster and web belt not pictured was sitting in a footlocker for 100 odd years. The smell hit me like a brick. Although not dried out in the least, the holster is a little tight and I have to work on getting a 1911 mold to properly fit it

 

[FisherTech]

Not rushing into anything but thanks for the warning. Apparently this holster and web belt not pictured was sitting in a footlocker for 100 odd years. The smell hit me like a brick. Although not dried out in the least, the holster is a little tight and I have to work on getting a 1911 mold to properly fit it

If you find the holster a "little tight" soak the holster in warm water, wrap the pistol in plastic bag and put it the holster until dry (air dry do not rush the drying process). That will give you a molded fit.

 

[Rat187]

If you find the holster a "little tight" soak the holster in warm water, wrap the pistol in plastic bag and put it the holster until dry (air dry do not rush the drying process). That will give you a molded fit.

Sweet thanks...

 

[ToddDubya]

You can also "bone" it, which is working the leather around the contours of the gun. Traditionally a bone was used, but your fingers will work. This would be wet with water before you get to the oiling stage. Since it's so old you may not want to do this step.

 

[Mesatchornug]

You can also "bone" it, which is working the leather around the contours of the gun. Traditionally a bone was used, but your fingers will work. This would be wet with water before you get to the oiling stage. Since it's so old you may not want to do this step.

a halfway step would be to stack it between two bags of rice. this would act as something of a conformable clamp. not as aggressive as boning, but helps with forming to the core.

 

[tbk5]

My wife is in the process of dyeing a horse saddle. It works for leather too. Black is the hardest color to do correctly. Roughly, the steps are:

• wash with brush with dawn dishwashing liquid
• rinse thoroughly with warm water
• let dry
• deglaze the leather with acetone
• oil with vegetable or canola oil, let dry (the soap and acetone pull a lot of the oils out; this conditions, not softens the leather. Neatsfoot oil can weaken the stitching if used too often)
• dye with Fiebing's Pro Dye Black (multiple light coats as needed to get color)
• let dry
• clean with murphy's oil soap diluted in hot water multiple times until the leather is no longer bleeding dye
• let dry
• seal it with mink oil (for waterproofing) or Fiebing's Tan-Kote

wool daubers and or cheap kid's paint brushes are used for apply dye and tan-kote
cheap sponges or foam paint brushes for oil

Lots of wait time but results are great.

 

[timbo]

My wife is in the process of dyeing a horse saddle. It works for leather too. Black is the hardest color to do correctly. Roughly, the steps are:

• wash with brush with dawn dishwashing liquid
• rinse thoroughly with warm water
• let dry
• deglaze the leather with acetone
• oil with vegetable or canola oil, let dry (the soap and acetone pull a lot of the oils out; this conditions, not softens the leather. Neatsfoot oil can weaken the stitching if used too often)
• dye with Fiebing's Pro Dye Black (multiple light coats as needed to get color)
• let dry
• clean with murphy's oil soap diluted in hot water multiple times until the leather is no longer bleeding dye
• let dry
• seal it with mink oil (for waterproofing) or Fiebing's Tan-Kote

wool daubers and or cheap kid's paint brushes are used for apply dye and tan-kote
cheap sponges or foam paint brushes for oil

Lots of wait time but results are great.

Thanks for the info!

 

[bbroush]

you can find leather refinishing solutions/creams designed to restore leather couches, saddles, etc. to original colors amazon.