How much difference is there between reloading for Pistol and reloading for rifle?

[Rockrivr1]

Ok, so I've cut my teeth on reloading 45acps and am getting pretty comfortable with doing that. I'm about to start reloading for 500 S&W and I'm pretty confident that I will be able to do that without to much of an issue.

With that said, I want to start reloading 308 and 30 Carbine rifle rounds and am not sure what will be different. I've read on this forum and elsewhere that you need to "trim" the casings. Have no idea what that entails. What other differences are there that I need to be aware of?

Thanks for the help.

 

[EddieCoyle]

Loading the .30 Carbine is the same as loading a pistol round, with the caveat that you might have to lube the cases (or every 3rd case) before resizing.

As far as rifle reloading goes, I'll quote an excellent post on the subject from TonyD:

My steps for competition match rifle rounds:

1) Decap brass with a universal de-capping die

2) Swage primer pockets if crimped (Only once for life time of brass

3) Uniform primer pockets (Only once for life time of brass)

4) Clean primer pockets

5) Tumble

6) Lube case mouth and body

7) Resize to appropriate deminsions

8) Trim

9) Chamfer inside case mouth

10) Debur outside case mouth

11) Unifrom and debur flash hole (Only once for life time of brass)

12) Tumble again

13) Prime with hand priming tool

14) Charge with powder (Weigh and trickle each load for 600 yards and greater)

15) Seat bullets

For general purpose rounds. steps 1, 2, 3, and 11 can be omitted.

 

[rscalzo]

When I load 308 I clean the primer pocket and make sure the primer pocket is reamed to insure uniform seating depth.

I also use only CCI #34 arsenal primers. Having a slam fire is a BAD thing !!! Bolt guns get a CCI BR2 primer.

I trim all cases after every firing. Gas guns are full lenght resized. Any 308 shot out of my bolt guns are neck sized only after being fired in that firearm.

 

[TonyD]

Thanks Eddie! Hope it helps Rock.

 

[USMA-82]

I would just add the use of a case gauge as part of the rifle ammo reloading steps - probably right after the champfer and deburr process. These can be purchased at a number of locations, like midwayusa.com, natchezss.com - and are well worth it.

Essentially, it is a very precise steel chamber that shows you if the case is the exact length is should be. Just pop the empty case in, check it out, and then pop it out again. A quick, easy check.

I don't tumble a second time, but the first time I add a little bit of turpentine to the brass polish - and they come out like new.

Through the whole process, though, be sure to examine each case thoroughly for any defects - cracks especially. Better you toss a single case then risk a face of hot gas under high pressure.

 

[1903Collector]

+1 to all the above, I also use a comparator, which is better for measuring OAL becuase it measures off the ogive. Bullet tips are notoriously inconsistant, and a BMU (bullet meplat uniformer). This little gadget trims just a little off the bullet tip making them more uniform. I was doubtful this would make a difference but it has for me. admittedly you don't need these two items, it just depends on how far you want to go. If you are loading for a bolt action you can also neck size only, but you can only use those rounds in the rifle they were originally fired in unless you full length size them for use in another rifle. between the two items above and a cartridge headpsace guage you can really tweak your ammo.

My two bits.....

 

[1903Collector]

Through the whole process, though, be sure to examine each case thoroughly for any defects - cracks especially. Better you toss a single case then risk a face of hot gas under high pressure.

Good advice, I seperate all my rifle brass into lots of 20 and keep records of them. If I find one in the lot that is defective I toss the whole lot. I usually get 5 to 7 firings out of each lot. How about the rest of you guys...

 

[TonyD]

Good advice, I seperate all my rifle brass into lots of 20 and keep records of them. If I find one in the lot that is defective I toss the whole lot. I usually get 5 to 7 firings out of each lot. How about the rest of you guys...

I have some that have a dozen reloads and no problems (match .223). I also use the comparator and case head space gauges. I don't seperate the brass by # of loadings. It gets handled enough that each case is inspected several times during the process. I'm just now tossing some of the first laods (brass) I made due to loose primer pockets. These pockets I reamed instead of swaging. If I had roll-sizer I could probably keep them.

I think the number one reason brass goes bad is how much it's "worked" during the firing and reloading process. I don't shoot hot loads (my match .223's run at 2,805 fps mV) but I load for accuracy. Therefore there is a lot less violence happening to case than say something at 3,100 fps.

When I size, I only set the shoulder back .002" from chamber specs and only neck size bolt stuff.

A Meplat Uniformer is next.

 

[Rockrivr1]

Loading rifle rounds seems to be a LOT more involved then loading ones for handgun. What would be the essentials if I wanted to start reloading 7.62 that I'm shooting through my M1A?

 

[Dick]

It's not any more complicated, though it can be made so if you really want to squeeze the maximum possible accuracy out of your handoads. For everyday ammo, that's not necessary. Just follow the basic steps outlined in any reloading manual, be a bit more diligent about inspecting your cases, stay away from maximum loads (good advice, most of the time, for any cartridge), and you'll be fine. Later on, you can add the fine-tuning that shrinks groups.

 

[bpm990d]

What would be the essentials if I wanted to start reloading 7.62 that I'm shooting through my M1A?

Reloading For a Semi-Autos and Service Rifles from Exteriorballistics.com.

 

[1903Collector]

I have some that have a dozen reloads and no problems (match .223). I also use the comparator and case head space gauges. I don't seperate the brass by # of loadings. It gets handled enough that each case is inspected several times during the process. I'm just now tossing some of the first laods (brass) I made due to loose primer pockets. These pockets I reamed instead of swaging. If I had roll-sizer I could probably keep them.

I think the number one reason brass goes bad is how much it's "worked" during the firing and reloading process. I don't shoot hot loads (my match .223's run at 2,805 fps mV) but I load for accuracy. Therefore there is a lot less violence happening to case than say something at 3,100 fps.

When I size, I only set the shoulder back .002" from chamber specs and only neck size bolt stuff.

A Meplat Uniformer is next.

I totally agree with you about the brass being worked being the primary reason it goes bad, sounds like were pretty much on the same page my friend. As for the BMU, I was doubtful but the damn thing works. Or at least it has for me...