Help with my Arsenal AK74

[Vagrant]

I recently bought an Arsenal SGL-31 and my friend noticed that the muzzle brake was not pinned & welded. Do you guys know where the cheapest place near Quincy is?

I also have a problem with the trigger sticking during the reset. I actually have to push the trigger back myself because it gets stuck during the reset. Any tips on how to fix that?

 

[Smash05]

? On the reset, is the bolt carrier not cycling to cock the hammer? Not sure what you are asking.

 

[Dench]

I recently bought an Arsenal SGL-31 and my friend noticed that the muzzle brake was not pinned & welded. Do you guys know where the cheapest place near Quincy is?

I also have a problem with the trigger sticking during the reset. I actually have to push the trigger back myself because it gets stuck during the reset. Any tips on how to fix that?

call up Noah's motors in Saugus. He's great with AK's. He did work on two of mine, one of them was AWB compliance.

 

[01SVTvert]

It can be puddle welded underneath and then smoothed. Never even know it was welded. Better than trying to pin the big 74 brake.

 

[Vagrant]

? On the reset, is the bolt carrier not cycling to cock the hammer? Not sure what you are asking.

The trigger sometimes doesn't return to its original position after being pulled.

How much it is it to get it welded?

 

[flintoid]

for trigger reset- it may require you to disassemble the trigger group to check to see if the disconnector spring is in the disconnector. If it is not, the trigger won't reset, which could be your problem. This is a picture of the disconnector and spring:

Or is the trigger binding on something? I have a romanian AKM that used to have a trigger that binded on the receiver opening for the trigger when I pulled it all the way. Some foreign trigger groups will do this in semi-auto configurations as well where the trigger "sticks" due to the geometry of the trigger where it slides through the receiver slot.

Either way- your arsenal gun should NOT be doing this. If you are having trouble with it- send it back to Arsenal to fix it. It's unacceptable for that rifle to malfunction with all the money you paid for that rifle. Your gunshop can send it back to them or you could call them up and get it arranged to be sent there. They should make it right.

 

[Vagrant]

Or is the trigger binding on something? I have a romanian AKM that used to have a trigger that binded on the receiver opening for the trigger when I pulled it all the way. Some foreign trigger groups will do this in semi-auto configurations as well where the trigger "sticks" due to the geometry of the trigger where it slides through the receiver slot.

Either way- your arsenal gun should NOT be doing this. If you are having trouble with it- send it back to Arsenal to fix it. It's unacceptable for that rifle to malfunction with all the money you paid for that rifle. Your gunshop can send it back to them or you could call them up and get it arranged to be sent there. They should make it right.

I'm dry firing my gun right now and I know how to replicate the problem. If I squeeze and hold the trigger all the way back, charge the handle, and then release the trigger very, very slowly to let it reset, there is too much friction to let the trigger return. If I squeeze the trigger and release the trigger faster it can overcome the friction.


EDIT: it's definitely the hammer that's being stuck on the hook part of the disconnector. I may have to polish it a bit or break the gun in a bit more.

Thanks for the help on the trigger problem. I still need to find a cheap place to get my muzzle brake welded.

 

[dnepro-mike]

wow i did not expect that from Arsenal gun.
why don't you try to through in a Tapco G2.
it's cheap, cheerful and works as a charm. it is single stage though. arsenal triggers AFAIK are two-stage.
if you JUST want to try G2 trigger you can swing by my house and try one of mine before buy.
or maybe some other member closer to quincy can offer try his G2.

 

[Vagrant]

wow i did not expect that from Arsenal gun.
why don't you try to through in a Tapco G2.
it's cheap, cheerful and works as a charm. it is single stage though. arsenal triggers AFAIK are two-stage.
if you JUST want to try G2 trigger you can swing by my house and try one of mine before buy.
or maybe some other member closer to quincy can offer try his G2.

Thanks. I read up on the G2 trigger and it seems like 95% of the people prefer the G2 trigger vs the Arsenal trigger. Based off the reviews, I went ahead and purchased a G2 trigger. I don't have any experience with single stage triggers but I think a single stage will make more sense on my AK

 

[dnepro-mike]

Thanks. I read up on the G2 trigger and it seems like 95% of the people prefer the G2 trigger vs the Arsenal trigger. Based off the reviews, I went ahead and purchased a G2 trigger. I don't have any experience with single stage triggers but I think a single stage will make more sense on my AK

single or double it really makes little difference shooting-vise (outside of competition setting) and more of an individual preference.
you will like tapco FCG. i hope you've got single hook and not 2-hook kind, othervise you might need to cut a second clearance notch in you receiver's trigger opening.

 

[Vagrant]

single or double it really makes little difference shooting-vise (outside of competition setting) and more of an individual preference.
you will like tapco FCG. i hope you've got single hook and not 2-hook kind, othervise you might need to cut a second clearance notch in you receiver's trigger opening.

Yup, I got the single hook trigger. I now have to find a cheap place to get my muzzle brake welded since it was sold to me unwelded. Do you guys know much Gregg Derr or Zero Hour Arms will charge for something like this?

 

[dnepro-mike]

Yup, I got the single hook trigger. I now have to find a cheap place to get my muzzle brake welded since it was sold to me unwelded. Do you guys know much Gregg Derr or Zero Hour Arms will charge for something like this?

i was quoted last year $50 for 'fixing' muzzle brake.
but that was North East Trading Co. gunsmith
before you go looking for someone to weld it make sure it is in fact can be removed.

 

[Vagrant]

ok....I'm getting a lot of conflicting information. Some people are saying that I don't need to pin & weld my muzzle brake on my AK74. The store I bought my AK from got really defensive when I asked them if I need to weld the muzzle brake. The store said they could weld it if I really wanted to but they said it in such a condescending tone that I don't want to go back there.

Edit: I called another store about this and they also said I don't need to permanently the brake.

Anyways, do I really need to get the brake permanently attached? This is really driving me crazy.

 

[flintoid]

Vagrant- take this advice for what it's worth: nothing. Do not act on someone's advice besides what you want to risk yourself.

The AWB talks about threaded barrels. It does not address threaded sight blocks. What you have is a threaded sight block where the brake attaches.

BUT:

Is the arresting officer going to know the difference between your front sight block and the barrel? Probably not. You would still get cited for it, and then you'd have to fight it and prove that it doesn't fall astray of the law. And that requires money for a lawyer, and a judge that is going to agree with your defense. Will that happen? That's a huge risk you'd have to take upon yourself.


So it's your choice. Are you willing to fight it when a jackass Law Enforcer arrests you because he doesn't know the law? (they don't know the law, or at least the ones that will be hell bent on ****ing you anyways will ignore better judgement if they already have it) Or are you going to play it safe?


No one here can tell you what you should be doing. And you shouldn't listen to anyone on here. People will give you information. It is your call what you want to do with it.

 

[flintoid]

and for the record, gun shops are a poor area to learn local gun law.

Read the "Law" section of this forum and then the laws themselves. Reading the penalties themselves may help sway you in making your decision with this rifle.

 

[dnepro-mike]

i see why it might seem conflicting
there are actually two ways to permanently affix muzzle device.
one is hole+pin+weld over
another is hi-temp solder.
both in the eyes of law effectively disable/eliminate threads
if your break does not have obvious pin+weld. then it (maybe, just maybe) soldered.
hence in my other post i asked you if you could actually take it off.
taking off AK break is easy just give it a try!

as for flintoid's advice, i agree fully with him - be your own judge. after all it is YOUR ass potentially on the line.

 

[Vagrant]

i see why it might seem conflicting
there are actually two ways to permanently affix muzzle device.
one is hole+pin+weld over
another is hi-temp solder.
both in the eyes of law effectively disable/eliminate threads
if your break does not have obvious pin+weld. then it (maybe, just maybe) soldered.
hence in my other post i asked you if you could actually take it off.
taking off AK break is easy just give it a try!

as for flintoid's advice, i agree fully with him - be your own judge. after all it is YOUR ass potentially on the line.

yes, I am able to take the brake off. I just have to push in the detent and then twist it off. I think I'll play it safe and get it welded. I'll just spend the ~$50 and hopefully it'll help me sleep better at night . It's just going to be a pain in the ass cleaning a permanently attached brake since it's not chrome lined and I will be shooting corrosive ammo.

Huge thanks to you guys.

 

[dnepro-mike]

yes, I am able to take the brake off. I just have to push in the detent and then twist it off. I think I'll play it safe and get it welded. I'll just spend the ~$50 and hopefully it'll help me sleep better at night . It's just going to be a pain in the ass cleaning a permanently attached brake since it's not chrome lined and I will be shooting corrosive ammo.

Huge thanks to you guys.

Arsenal brakes have to be chrome-lined are you sure it's not?
but even if it isn't these AK74 brakes are not rarity or scarce commodity be any means. even if yours gets rusted out you can always through it away and buy new one to replace it. they cost like 35-40 bucks new surplus. it still will take thousands upon thousands of rounds to really damage it.

but if you are so afraid of effect of corrosive ammo just flush the bore and the brake with hot water from the chamber. this is the way to cleanning when shooting corrosive surplus.
and if you don't shoot corrosive then hopes #7 and bore-snake will do just fine.