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Gun safe sale heads up

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I am in the market for another safe because my current safe is getting pretty full but I guess I’m too much of a skin flint to buy a safe from your guys so I’ll pass….
I have a very large American made safe for sale if your interested. I can send you pics. Its 72 x 72 x 50 deep. Fire rated, dehumidifier, led lights and a 110v dual outlet inside. Its in Brand new condition. Never had anything inside. It was special ordered because of the depth. Message for more info if your interested.
Thanks
Rich
 
But that really was my question, and I wasn't being snarky. What states require one?
It's not so much requiring a safe but the keeping your guns locked issue and it is a lot easier to throw them in a considered container then buying lots of locks with different keys but your mileage will vary. Locking up your guns is a requirement at least here in the utopian state of Massachusetts not sure about other states just trying to give a heads up on a sale which others don't feel is a sale because once again it ain't free or cheap.
 
I bought what looks to be a Renegade 60X30X20 in 1997 when Sun Welding was C&H Welding. The size specifications are identical. Cost me about mid $600 and came with a Sargent & Greenleaf Group 2. Did no maintenance until about 3 months ago. I thought it was time to open the back of the door as the bolt work was no longer felt smooth. This is what I found. All metal inside was bare. Well it had the mill coating. The white grease used on the bolt work was yellow and hard as plastic in that it was impossible to wipe off. I had to use a metal scraper and a small peen hammer to chip it off. It looked like the bolt work was assembled in the door and welded together in place. I could see they spent no effort to clean up the welding splatter. There are no fasteners on the bolt work or re-locker so no visible way to remove anything for service. This made chiseling the plasticized grease a fairly meticulous endeavor. I greased the bolt work and what a difference. I figured while I was at it I would replace the lock. When I opened the lock back I could see that even though the lock label only said Group 2. The brass and that it had an adjustable tensioner told me it was a 6730. I wanted to get the lock cleaned and lubed and asked S&G for advice. They referred me to a couple web sites which referenced member locksmiths. There are none within about 90 miles. So I tried a local locksmith which sold safes. They did not answer my email. So I bought a 6630 (MBAUSA) and swapped it in. (Thanks to DYIers on YouTube) The 6630 fit and worked perfectly. Since I didn't remove the dial ring the spinal was aligned and was exactly the correct length. Remembering the Liberty Safe thing, I used the supplied change key to set a different combination than the safe had before. BTW I did use a new Spline Key. Servicing the bolt work and installing the new lock made the the door feel new again. The 6630 lock has its tensioner set tight so the Dial has to be turned as it won't spin like the 6730 does. About the old 6730. I ordered some Aero 22 grease from MBAUSA and downloaded a lock lubrication PDF from S&G. About me: I spent about 9 years working in Tool & Die and fabrication in my youth. Still have my Kennedy tool boxes. I found the the 6730 lock easy to disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble. I bought a training mount and a basic ring and dial and put the old lock on that. I have been practicing lock manipulation with it. I have cycled it hundreds of times and it is smooth, fast and reliable. Seems I didn't make any mistakes in the servicing. The lock is really a simple device. If you are proficient in mechanical things there is no reason why you can not DIY these locks like I did. Recall I didn't risk a lock out on my safe as I used a new lock there and placed the old one on the practice mount. But still, I am confident the old one would have been fine.
 
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