Frog Lube Question

Eric

Eric

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I have read different directions regarding the application of Frog Lube but I haven't seen anything where people are using their typical grease, oil etc on their firearms. Ate the additional lubricants not required? But what about non smooth metal surfaces which require a drop of oil. Any help would be appreciated. Is it worth it or just a hype?
 
I know a guy who uses Frog lube. I believe it says not to use other lubricants. ... I don't know. But we have very similar rifles : I have an older Bushmaster and he has a Windham Arms.

We were trying out the cheapest nasty Russian ammo , TulAmmo , and his balked , but mine ate it. he uses Frog Lube , I use Mobil 1 Synthethic motor oil.
 
I use it on my S&W Shield 9mm, Ruger SR22 Pistol & Ruger 10/22TD

It's a CLP... so it lubricates plenty if you follow the directions.

It cleans up east after shooting.

Smells good... which keeps the wife happy. She pisses & moans when she smells Hopee's #9
 
I've been using frog lube since it first came out...i dont like CLP's in general...i dont think that there is one "wonder" cleaner

What i can tell you about froglube, its an AWESOME lubricant, and it's easier to clean the gun after frog lube has been applied...i still use gun scrubber and mpro7 for all the heavy lifting...and the gun gets froglubed after cleaning with mpro
 
I have been using froglube for over 2 yrs now. I was turned onto it when shooting a LE carbine class up at Sig, one of the trainers had been using it and recommended it so for like $11 I thought I would give it a try. I have to say the stuff is outstanding!! it lubes great,breaks up carbon like nothing else and keeps it from building up again.

After treating your gun by heating up the parts with a heat gun or hair dryer just put froglube on and let it sit about 10min wipe away extra. Then clean as normal a few times with froglube and you will find it get easier and easier to clean your gun. The 4oz paste I got at Sig I still have seeing you have to use so little to clean that it is very cost effective. Four season stocks and and sportsman's den in Quincy stocks it, don't listen to people that have never even used it and talk smack on here. Grab some at either shop ask the guys at the shop how it works they will be honest with you. Good luck!
 
I won't buy it just on principle because of some shady marketing gimmicks they employed.
 
henchmen77 said:
Would you mind filling us in on what you mean? As you talking about Seal 1 thing?
Click to expand...

I remember one time they made several accounts on here with random screen names and used those accounts to rave about how great Frog Lube was. When asked by several people, including the mods, if they were advertising for Frog Lube they kept dodging the question.
 
I started using it before I found out about the BS marketing on here. I don't care. Gorilla forum marketing is done for everything.

It's a good product and the misses doesn't bitch about the smell.

I still use Rem Oil on certain parts (outside of barrels for preservation) but Frog Lube goes onto all the moving parts.
 
I use it to masturbate my common toads so that my 200 sq ft aquarium habitat stays intact. It is incredibly difficult to keep the reproductive rates of these toads high enough to co-existe with the reptilian vertebrates in my habitat: they end up being food. So without this miracle product, it would be impossible for me to pursue my intellectual fetish of maintaining an (almost) entirely self-sufficient swamp habitat in an inner-city urban environment.

Thanks, Frog Lube.


as for gun lube, I use the gallons of semen that is the final product of the resulting satisfaction from my fantastically educational swamp habitat. It's like frog lube, except with more pleasure.
 
flintoid said:
I use it to masturbate my common toads so that my 200 sq ft aquarium habitat stays intact. It is incredibly difficult to keep the reproductive rates of these toads high enough to co-existe with the reptilian vertebrates in my habitat: they end up being food. So without this miracle product, it would be impossible for me to pursue my intellectual fetish of maintaining an (almost) entirely self-sufficient swamp habitat in an inner-city urban environment.

Thanks, Frog Lube.


as for gun lube, I use the gallons of semen that is the final product of the resulting satisfaction from my fantastically educational swamp habitat. It's like frog lube, except with more pleasure.
Click to expand...

I make my own, three pats frog to one part toad. Excellent lubricational abilities in abundance.......
 
I heard you need to rub the belly of a tree frog with it to activate the sponge like quality of the lube.

-tapatalk and Devin McCourty blow chunks-
 
I initially used the Frogube Solvent to first to clean my guns and also remove previous oils and solvents. Then heated (optional) all the metal parts and treated them with the Froglube CLP. I also applied it to the (unheated) plastic parts, synthetic stocks, wood stocks, every reachable surface.

To answer the original question - all the places that I used to put a drop or thin layer of oil after cleaning, I applied the Froglube CLP liquid. The actions are smoother, cleaner and sweeter than from anything I've used before.

Just used it on all my kydex holsters and mag carriers too. Cleaned up nicely and makes for a nice smooth draw.

All in all, the products performance is an improvement, non toxic, and are much easier and more pleasant to use. I definitely like not smelling like solvent and gun oil when cleaning and when carrying.
 
Instuctions for Frog Lube. Leave on the counter of the gun store; do not buy. Take your $ and buy a quart of synthetic motor oil (I use 20w50 for centerfire guns). Save your money. there is no "super lube". Synthetic motor oil is relatively cheap and, in my experience, works just as well as the expensive gun lubes like Break Free for a fraction of the cost.
 
Gammon said:
Instuctions for Frog Lube. Leave on the counter of the gun store; do not buy. Take your $ and buy a quart of synthetic motor oil (I use 20w50 for centerfire guns). Save your money. there is no "super lube". Synthetic motor oil is relatively cheap and, in my experience, works just as well as the expensive gun lubes like Break Free for a fraction of the cost.
Click to expand...

I was just about to write this above.

I use Mobil1 for oil. If I am going to store something for a while I use Boeshield. google it. good stuff.
The only other thing I do is use grease for the rails on my 1911s. It makes them run nice and smooth. the gun doesn't work any better, it just feels nice.
My les baer feels like its on ball bearings when I use grease on the slide.
 
I avoided it when I read that it polishes metal parts and removes corrosion.

I mixed up a quart each of synthetic motor oil and ATF that I've been using for years on all of my guns. I have no complaints.
 
EddieCoyle said:
I avoided it when I read that it polishes metal parts and removes corrosion.

I mixed up a quart each of synthetic motor oil and ATF that I've been using for years on all of my guns. I have no complaints.
Click to expand...

dcmdon said:
Dexron or type F? ; -)
Click to expand...

I do the same thing as EC. I took some 10w30 Mobil 1 and some of the ATF I was using for Ed's Red and mixed up about 1/2 a mason jar. Its been a couple years, and I still have a ton left. (including 2/3 of the quart of mobil 1). It was Dexron ATF.

The only gun that I wont use it on is my FAL... it simply wont run properly without grease. That gets automatenfett from an old swiss cleaning kit
 
the thing i don't like about frog lube is that you have to heat everything up before apply the wax on it. :( But other than that, it's awesome. I had done some research and watched a lot of reviews before purchased it. I am recommended. I will try to use it on my stepdad's construction tools to see how they work with it.
 
I have been using Frog Lube a few months (and I have been shooting quite a bit).
I gotta say I'm impressed! I'm using it w/o any other solvents or lubricant's.

Clean up of the gun is easy (dry patches) And the guns I am using it on have performed w/o any issues.

One of the big reasons I tried it, is that I don't have a basement or garage. I clean my guns in the kitchen or living room. The smell does not bother my wife like H#9 does.

I'm not knocking what anybody else is using.
I fully understand that the AD's and sales tactics are Gimmicky!
Bottom Line The Stuff Works Good For Me! Just my 2 cents... [thumbsup]
 
Last edited:
Son of Sasquatch said:
Last I checked ATF was slightly caustic and synthetic motor oil has detergents and rust inhibitors/removers.

What are you actually gaining with this method?
Click to expand...

What do you mean by caustic?

I've used some combination of oil and Dexron ATF for years. It works wonderfully.

While I"m currently using Mobil1 for general lubrication, my Dexron concoction works great too. Because its more of a pain to make, I use it mainly for stuff I don't use very often.


My current batch was made with a quart of Aeroshell 2F oil. This oil is designed as a preservative oil for the long term storage of aviation engines. It has a higher concentration of corrosion inhibitors than normal oil. I mixed it with a qt of Dexron and then melted some Lanolin in. An idea I got from the Eds Red recipe. It lubricates well and does an excellent job of keeping rust away. $20 gets you about a half gallon of the stuff.

If you can, pick up Aeroshell Fluid 2F, its good stuff for Firearms use. The only down side is its now sold only in 5 qt jugs at about $50. If you can stop by a small airport, they'll probably sell you a qt out of a jug.

Don

p.s. if you don't know about eds red, then google it. Good stuff.
 
Son of Sasquatch said:
Last I checked ATF was slightly caustic and synthetic motor oil has detergents and rust inhibitors/removers.

What are you actually gaining with this method?
Click to expand...

Neither is caustic. The combination of the two provides good corrosion protection, works well in a wide temperature range, migrates well, has very good boundary protection, and will not oxidize (harden) even after years of storage.

I've worked in the machine tool industry for over 30 years, and during that time have gotten to know several scientists working in the lubricant business- who also happen to be shooters. I use what they use.
 
I started out with Hoppes #9, but when I got my Smith, I noticed it had a clear coat, so I started asking questions. The Hoppe's has ammonia's in it which can break down the paint. CLP break free has no ammonia and is supposedly easier on the clear coat. I ended up buying a can at wally mart. Break free seems to work a bit better if not the same as Hoppe's, and it keeps the wife quiet.
 

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