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finished refinishing my m44
- Thread starter TheKrazyRaven
- Start date
![[rofl]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/013.gif "ROFL [rofl]")
I just threw it back in for 30mins. it had some minor weeping in parts that i didnt notice earlier. I want to get it all otu before I strip this SOB. I F'd up my Mosin pretty bad trying to refinish it, i hope i dont repeat it
I use a little different method. I strip the wood using the spray on stripper. Wipe it down with a cloth, NO SANDING!!!!! Use 0000 steel wool if you have too. I usually use that after the finish has been applied. I use a mixture of boiled linseed oil and a small amount of mineral spirits to thin out the oil. Apply small amounts and the stock comes out with a nice deep rich that looks natural. The more coats you hand rub the more shine you achieve.I personally like the hand rubbed look and not the poly. But what ever is the owners preferred method is best.
Then there are the rifles you DON'T want to change the appearance of the stock. The collector rifles. The condition of the stock is part of the rifles history.
The run of the mill 91/30 etc look really nice when you get that god awful slapped on shellac off....they looked beautiful all cleaned up..
Another method is SKSRays method where you can blend the existing finish over areas where it has been worn off.
Its really each owners preference, after all...there our firearms
![[wink]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/002.gif "Wink [wink]")
Also I use Ed's Red to remove the cosmoline from the stock. It has never failed. I use a auto parts cleaner and a stiff nylon brush. None of my refinished stocks have ever seaped out coslomine after that stuff is applied!
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I'm about to start a refin project with my mosin. I have a jug of citristrip to remove the old finish and I think I'm am going to stain it with Minwax dark walnut, then finished it off with a few coats of tung oil.
Thanks
G
- Does that sound like a good approach for the refin?
- Do I absolutely need to remove the stock recoil bolt?
- Do the band springs just pull straight out of the stock?
Thanks
G
- Joined
- Nov 21, 2010
- Messages
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Stock recoil bolt comes out easy. I use snap ring pliers to remove the nut, and then tap the bolt out with a wooden dowel and hammer.
For the band springs, there is a drilled thru hole on the opposite side. Insert a small punch and carefully tap the spring out.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
For the band springs, there is a drilled thru hole on the opposite side. Insert a small punch and carefully tap the spring out.
Sent from my iPhone 4S using Tapatalk
I just refinished two Mosins that I purchased from Terry at Collectors Firearms and Militaria in Pelham. I paid $120 for one of them and $140 for the other because it had the hex receiver. Both had great-looking bores and all of the accessories.
I removed the finish with 1 or 2 applications of citristrip, then applied mineral spirits liberally to dissolve residual cosmo stains in the wood. I then sanded lightly with 150 grit paper (just hard enough to roughen the surface for application of stain and finish but not hard enough to obliterate any of the stampings). I washed the sanding dust off with acetone which also dissolves some additional stains in the wood.
I'll post more finishing details and pics later but I've got to run for now.
I removed the finish with 1 or 2 applications of citristrip, then applied mineral spirits liberally to dissolve residual cosmo stains in the wood. I then sanded lightly with 150 grit paper (just hard enough to roughen the surface for application of stain and finish but not hard enough to obliterate any of the stampings). I washed the sanding dust off with acetone which also dissolves some additional stains in the wood.
I'll post more finishing details and pics later but I've got to run for now.
IMHO I would not take the cross bolt out. In all of the manuals it highly suggest you leave it alone. As to the finish the closest thing to what was used by the Russians is Arizona Red min wax stain.
I use a good spray on paint stripper and then use mineral spirits to clean it. If any finish work is needed I use 0000 steel wool. I would not use sand paper. If you are restoring the rifle you don't want to sand off any material.
As Mustang said the hand guard bands come out by gently using a very small punch. If you use a punch larger than the original they will drift out on you.
While your at it I suggest you purchase a spring for the trigger. Its a small spring which was used by the Finns on their rifles and takes a great deal of the creep out of the trigger. it keeps the rifle in original configuration but really helps with that long trigger pull. I will look for the link. I guy in Texas hand makes them and they have been approved by the collectors on the gun-boards forum. All of my Mosins I shoot have them installed.
Another thing to note the wood is most likely arctic birch so its very light when stripped. If you use a walnut stain it may not provide you with the desired result. I would test a small area which is not visible when the action is in place.
I picked up an old cracked stock just for this very reason.
I stained a M39 stock which was in really bad shape from a bubba and I found the color I wanted, after trying five different colors. Walnut was one I tried but it just wasn't for me, and again we all have different tastes, so you may find its just the right color.
Either way its all about enjoying working on these old war horses. After you finish it I guarantee it will turn heads at the range.
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Good info, thanks 50 BMG. I just started stripping and I left the cross bolt in place. I don't have the proper punch to take out the springs so they're staying put for now.
The bluing is worn quite a bit in some places and I'm trying to decide if I want to re-blue it or not. Any experience with that?
As for the trigger, mine doesn't have any creep, the pull is pretty short and it breaks nicely. Then again, I don't know any better since this is my first rifle.
![[smile]](/xen/styles/default/xenforo/smilies.vb/001.gif "Smile [smile]")
Mosin Nagant refinishing, my recent experience
OK, so here's what I did next:
One coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner
One or two applications of either Minwax Gunstock 231 stain OR Golden Oak 210B stain
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains-color-guide/
Two applications of General Finish Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat Satin Finish
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat
(I buffed with 0000 steel wool after the first coat had dried)
I'll upload some photos in a bit....
OK, so here's what I did next:
One coat of Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains/minwax-prestain-wood-conditioner
One or two applications of either Minwax Gunstock 231 stain OR Golden Oak 210B stain
http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/stains-color-guide/
Two applications of General Finish Arm-R-Seal Oil & Urethane Topcoat Satin Finish
http://www.generalfinishes.com/retail-products/oil-base-top-coats/arm-r-seal-urethane-topcoat
(I buffed with 0000 steel wool after the first coat had dried)
I'll upload some photos in a bit....
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My recent project refinishing two Mosin Nagants
This pic isn't the greatest because I took it with my iPhone camera.
One of the most interesting and enjoyable aspects of this project was putting myself in the shoes of the unknown craftsman and soldiers who built, used and repaired these rifles during their pre-surplus existence. The wood in the stocks was not high quality and from at least two different species of trees. Several damaged areas and repairs became evident as I peeled away layers of history. I tried my best not to hide these repairs because I considered them part of the essential character of the firearm. Even the residual dark stains are in patterns that suggest the transfer of skin oils from the hands of the soldiers that held these weapons.
This pic isn't the greatest because I took it with my iPhone camera.
One of the most interesting and enjoyable aspects of this project was putting myself in the shoes of the unknown craftsman and soldiers who built, used and repaired these rifles during their pre-surplus existence. The wood in the stocks was not high quality and from at least two different species of trees. Several damaged areas and repairs became evident as I peeled away layers of history. I tried my best not to hide these repairs because I considered them part of the essential character of the firearm. Even the residual dark stains are in patterns that suggest the transfer of skin oils from the hands of the soldiers that held these weapons.
I noticed the repair on the lower part of the buttstock of your carbine. One on my Mosins has a similar repair where a new triangular piece of wood has been used to replace part of the original stock. The repair is quite well done and sturdy but the wood grain ran in a somewhat different direction and took up stain differently than the rest of the original stock.
I went with the Minwax "gunstock" stain and it's looking amazing. I'll post picks when I'm done. Will be at least a few more days. I want to put a few coats of Tung oil on it.
I'm now thinking about re-bluing all the steel; it's quite worn in some spots, especial on the top of the receiver. Any recommendations? Should I do it myself or pay someone to do it?
I'm now thinking about re-bluing all the steel; it's quite worn in some spots, especial on the top of the receiver. Any recommendations? Should I do it myself or pay someone to do it?
LOL I usually pay extra for guns with worn finish! My m44 nagant is almost completely free of any original finish.... The lack of finish, and of course the lack of a re-arsenal mark make it one of my favorites
Unless it really bothers you I would leave it as is. If you want to try cold blue there are a few products on the market but they never IMO turn out all that great. If you have someone professionally blue it you will pay more for the re blue than the rifle cost you.
Brownells sells a cold bluing product which is very good. It is in a paste form. I will provide you with the link below. Birchwood Casey is the most well known in most sporting goods stores but be ready to apply a coat, rinse, steel wool, reapply, rinse, steel wool, over and over. Also if the surface is not perfectly clean it will come out blotchy.
There are plenty of Mosins out there. Just buy another
If you want to give it a try this is the product I have had the best results with, but I will tell you it took me a few attempts.
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1108/Product/OXPHO-BLUE-reg-CREME?avad=avant
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I've been using "natural" color min wax on my SKS. It looks like the color of the wood while wet.
My SKS already has dark wood on it, so I knew that if I used any type of colored stain it would be super black.
That is one beautiful looking rifle. EXCELLENT job. The bluing looks great too!!!
And to think some folks think the Mosin is the ugly duckling of rifles. Youu did a fantastic job.
And to think some folks think the Mosin is the ugly duckling of rifles. Youu did a fantastic job.
Wicked sexy. When I get my Mosin I will PM you for instructions.
Thanks man. I wish I could say I did the bluing but I haven't touched it yet. I know it's hard to see in the picture but I really f'd up the top of the receiver a while back when I was trying to whiten the lettering. I used a scotch brite pad to remove the excess crayon, which was totally moronic on my part. So I do want to do some bluing at some point.
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Sure thing.
looks awesome! maybe i'll get to see it out at haverhill one of these days
