I wasn't sure if I should put this here or in general but here goes... Anyone here use a electric sharpener? I would post a link but I am an idiot when it comes to computers if my wife isn't here to show me how. Lol probably one of the only 32 y/o males out there saying that but hey I am a carpenter and don't need no stinking computer. But I am talking about one of the bench mount ones not the handheld "dremel" type. I cut a lot of firewood for me and my mother and do a decent amount of land clearing type stuff around my small farm (23 acres). Well I was noticing yesterday that I am getting a good pile of chains in the garage that need a good sharpening. The guy that lived here before me nailed a lot of fence to trees and stuff so when I am cutting and find one of his old staples I generally just throw a new chain on because its too much work to file it out evenly around the whole chain by hand. I know my local shop will do it but its easier to just buy a new chain than drive there and back twice to drop off and pick up (cost of gas) plus the sharpening. So I got to thinking about a sharpener. I have seen them at Tractor Supply and such for around a hundred bucks or less. I have 3 saws and one of them has 2 different bar sizes so I have 44 different length chains with 3 different tooth sizes that need to be done. Thanks for any suggestions.
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Electric Chainsaw Sharpener?
- Thread starter Brian5582
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I have an older US made 'professional' type sharpener (can't remember the name off hand). Got it for 20 bucks off Craigslist.
Put on different wheels for assorted size chains - and shape wheels as needed for special chains.
The thing is great for re-grinding a damaged or heavily worn chain. For light touching up in the field, I just use a file.
Always run a sharp chain, you'll save time, fuel, and wear on the machine.
EDIT - remembered name - Foley-Belsaw
Put on different wheels for assorted size chains - and shape wheels as needed for special chains.
The thing is great for re-grinding a damaged or heavily worn chain. For light touching up in the field, I just use a file.
Always run a sharp chain, you'll save time, fuel, and wear on the machine.
EDIT - remembered name - Foley-Belsaw
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I have always used a hand file on all the saws I have used. If you get good files it makes fast work out of the job. I think I use 2 to 3 strokes per tooth max with a sharp file.
Don't get the one from harbor freight tools. It will destroy your chain in seconds. I had one, first time I started it up, the center hole in the grinding wheel was off center and the who thing vibrated apart. The second one destroyed itself equally well within the first time around.
I always touch up the chains with a file every other tank fill or so. They usually don't need it, I am pretty good about not hitting the ground or rocks or anything. I have been using saws for a long time and also did removal/ climbed for a few years but sometimes stuff happens. I like them as sharp as possible and don't use any of that safety "anti kickback" crap. It seems like the guy that owned the place before me or his kids thought it would be fun to put nails and staples in every tree on the property. They usually don't get to the point of needing a grinder but I do have probably a dozen or so that are beyond hand filing but aren't destroyed. Just too big of a chip to file out evenly time wise. Its easier and faster for me to just put another chain on.
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I wasn't thinking of going the Harbor Freight route but the Tractor Supply near me sells 2 different kinds. A Oregon and a cheaper one, can't remember what make right now.
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I wasn't thinking of going the Harbor Freight route but the Tractor Supply near me sells 2 different kinds. A Oregon and a cheaper one, can't remember what make right now.
Might be worth investing in a carbide chain if you have that much stuff in your trees.
http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/products/accessories/511AXBenchChainGrinder.htm
I have been using one of these for maybe 10 years. I can't remember the last time I used a file. I have 5 chains and just change them when dull. One of the best things is you can easily lower the depth gauges with it also.
I have been using one of these for maybe 10 years. I can't remember the last time I used a file. I have 5 chains and just change them when dull. One of the best things is you can easily lower the depth gauges with it also.
GM-GUY
NES Member
The only problem with those grinders it they tend to heat the chain - changing the temper and sometimes making the chain softer = won't hold an edge or harder=a hand file will do nothing for you.
I've always used a hand file with the flat angle indicator gauge - they sell a clamp that goes on the bar and will hold the correct angle (a pain in the butt) - I have it and it hasn't moved from my shed wall in 6 years.
Agree with those who say sharpen every other tank, or every tank if you are running hard wood, pine every other is fine.
I've always used a hand file with the flat angle indicator gauge - they sell a clamp that goes on the bar and will hold the correct angle (a pain in the butt) - I have it and it hasn't moved from my shed wall in 6 years.
Agree with those who say sharpen every other tank, or every tank if you are running hard wood, pine every other is fine.
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[cerberus];3879158 said:
I tried one of these and it didn't work well, or I was doing it wrong - http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/371042425171?item=371042425171&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466
I was actually considering what the heat might do if anything but came to the conclusion that the electric grinders have been around long enough with enough people using them that the effect they have on the chain is minimal if any.
Again I don't plan on using it for regular sharpening, just extreme cases where something was hiding in the tree. I would stick with the hand file for regular sharpening between every other tank fill or so. Thats definitely the best way to go rather than waiting till it needs it. I like the Pferd "Chain Sharp" It sharpens the tooth and takes the depth guard down at the same time.
Again I don't plan on using it for regular sharpening, just extreme cases where something was hiding in the tree. I would stick with the hand file for regular sharpening between every other tank fill or so. Thats definitely the best way to go rather than waiting till it needs it. I like the Pferd "Chain Sharp" It sharpens the tooth and takes the depth guard down at the same time.
Yeah - heat's only an issue during grinding if you're doing something wrong.
Even with sharp chains that have not been damaged and have only been hand file sharpened - it pays to run 'em through the grinder with a very light cut now and again to even all the tooth depth and angles up.
