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Decided to try
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Doesn’t have great reviews.
Where are you located? Personally I would stay away from BPS, very hit or miss if the staff knows what they are taking about.
Since this is the hunting form I assume your goal is to use this to hunt?
If I could do it again for a first bow, I would go into a shop and shoot anything they let me within my price range.
As far as packaged bows it’s an affordable way to start but you will outgrow the accessories quickly. I have replaced everything my bow came with besides the quiver. That costs more in the end.
Ask about used bows as well. Shops might try and steer you away from this because of the lower margins but the prices drop pretty good on used or even new but last year’s model bows.
Where are you located? Personally I would stay away from BPS, very hit or miss if the staff knows what they are taking about.
Since this is the hunting form I assume your goal is to use this to hunt?
If I could do it again for a first bow, I would go into a shop and shoot anything they let me within my price range.
As far as packaged bows it’s an affordable way to start but you will outgrow the accessories quickly. I have replaced everything my bow came with besides the quiver. That costs more in the end.
Ask about used bows as well. Shops might try and steer you away from this because of the lower margins but the prices drop pretty good on used or even new but last year’s model bows.
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50wt
NES Member
If your new, I would highly suggest going to a proper archery store and talking with them. Iv'e been there done that .
Trader Jans has a trailer setup somewhere in I think Dartmouth and X Spot in one of the Attleboros on Rt1.
Trader Jans has a trailer setup somewhere in I think Dartmouth and X Spot in one of the Attleboros on Rt1.
Any ready to hunt package will work for you you're going to want something with a whisker biscuit when you first starting out. Especially if you're hunting. Then eventually you'll move up.
Like the others have said do not buy a bow at Bass pro or Cabela's. The guys at kittery trading posts are pretty knowledgeable as well as any other archery shop. The most important thing is having it set up for you correctly. If it's not you'll never be accurate. They don't do that at the big box stores.
Like the others have said do not buy a bow at Bass pro or Cabela's. The guys at kittery trading posts are pretty knowledgeable as well as any other archery shop. The most important thing is having it set up for you correctly. If it's not you'll never be accurate. They don't do that at the big box stores.
HorizontalHunter
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Mark from MA
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Most of what's above. Needs to be fitted, arrows need to be matched to weight, and you should get some pointers on shooting.
All I can offer is, if your not sure you'll stay with it......don't buy top of the line, and make sure you can easily change draw length without buying extra modules and stuff.
So be careful with used especially if you go Mathews, because sometimes modules aren't that easy to find if the bow requires them.
Having a bow with easily adjustable draw makes it easier if you do have to sell as it will fit most others.
All I can offer is, if your not sure you'll stay with it......don't buy top of the line, and make sure you can easily change draw length without buying extra modules and stuff.
So be careful with used especially if you go Mathews, because sometimes modules aren't that easy to find if the bow requires them.
Having a bow with easily adjustable draw makes it easier if you do have to sell as it will fit most others.
Mark from MA
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Ive been shooting archery for 30 years and still use a whisker biscuit on my setups. Nothing wrong with simple, easy and reasonably priced.
In most cases I'm looking to shoot a deer at 30 yards and under....mostly under.
The cost of some of these bow setups etc....to shoot a deer at short range is retarded.
Don't have a lot of useful info to offer on what to get but I was at Jerry's this past weekend. Didn't get anything yet but I did fondle the bow I will be returning for when I have some cash put aside 
When I got there he was doing a setup on someones bow. Seemed pretty knowledgeable.
When I got there he was doing a setup on someones bow. Seemed pretty knowledgeable.
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Reedys in middleborow has always been good to me 
deerdad
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Brace height (distance between string and grip) also will have a big impact for a new shooter. A short brace height is a little harder to learn on imo because of the arrow being in contact with the string a little longer giving more chance of a hand twitch to alter the shot. If you go to a shop as mentioned above, you should get set up properly instead of BPS trying to sell you something that will just frustrate you.
Appreciate all the Guidance
Will be a hunting Bow
Kinda disappointed that you have to have the bow fitted like a new suit
Have to X3 since going thru this with the Grand Kids
But plenty of time to look and find the right deal
Need to get the tracking and behavioral skills down.
One other Question
How do you handle ticks in the brush
Will be a hunting Bow
Kinda disappointed that you have to have the bow fitted like a new suit
Have to X3 since going thru this with the Grand Kids
But plenty of time to look and find the right deal
Need to get the tracking and behavioral skills down.
One other Question
How do you handle ticks in the brush
peterk123
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If you’re not fitted to the bow you will never be truly satisfied. Spend a few bucks on quality equipment. It matters if you want accuracy. Consistent anchor point and release produces bullseyes and meat in the freezer 
HorizontalHunter
NES Member
Plenty of time is relative. Repeatable accuracy with a bow has its foundation in muscle memory.
Once you get static standing shooting down you need to practice how you are going to hunt. Using a treestand….learn to bend at the waist.
Hunting from a chair practice shooting while in the chair.
And just don’t practice with a “T”-shirt on. Practice dressed for hunting with the hunting clothing you will wear. You don’t want a puffy coat to mess up your chance at a deer.
Permethrin is the answer for ticks. You treat your clothing and it kills them for 4-6 weeks. Permethrin is an arachnicide so it doesn’t just keeper them. It is also supposed to be hazardous to fish and cats in its liquid form if that is an issue for you.
Bob
Mark from MA
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Most deer with bows are taken from treestands.....so that adds a ton more equipment and bullshit. Stands, Safety ropes, climbing bullshit. Doesn't have to be, but true successful archers hunt trees. Its tough to draw unseen by a deer at close range. Its just the truth. Not that it cant be done, but you'll be busted a ton and it turns many off because they feel they can't be successful.
Scouting pre and after season.....fully important. Knowing where food will be, deer will be in daylight shooting hours, and where they bed. Critical for success in bowhunting because you need to be closer than gun hunting.
Gun hunting is by far easier because of the lack of movement needed at shot time, and you can kill something out to 100 yards...with a bow....your probably staying out to 40 max. I keep my shots at 30 max.
Yes the bow has to be fitted.....unless you want to go the traditional archery route. But then you'll have a non adjustable draw weight and a lot more practicing and arrows lost.
Trad archery is really for guys that are super into bowhunting and practice a ton to be proficient. Otherwise your likely wounding animals...its not a half ass affair.
Permitherin for ticks.. take all your clothes and spray them down on a sunny day and let them dry outside.
Successful archery is a lifestyle choice....where I live in MA, and the low deer density, if you aren't scouting hard, your not killing deer with a bow unless shit luck shines on you.
Which is why I chose to archery hunt where the deer herd was much better in other state, it makes it easier.
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HorizontalHunter
NES Member
Went down to Jerry's Bait and Tackle yesterday. Ended up buying a Hoyt Torrex. Spent a couple of hours there with Jerry while he adjusted the bow to me and worked with me a bit on sight adjustment. The target shots are from 10 yards and 20 yards. These are from a guy that hasn't put more then then a dozen arrows down range for about 15 years. If I do what I am supposed to the bow will do its part.
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Nice to see you getting back into the sport and having success.
I hope Jerry, himself, realizes how much he has contributed to the sport of archery for both target and bow hunting in that corner of MA. The bow hunting community will lose a great asset when he retires.
Dennis in MA
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Reedys in middleborow has always been good to me
I was considering a bow several years ago. Was up in the 495 belt. Asked a client who is a HUGE hunter. "You live in Taunton - you know where Reedy's is? Just go there and be done with it."
I never did.
Archery tackle is so personal. You really want to go to a bow shop where you can try several out.
Reedy's is okay as far as shops go. Nothing great. But they push one brand - Mathews - really really hard. I don't care for that brand much myself. They are one of the most difficult bows to tune there is. Especially if you don't have a bow press and a draw board. That top hat system they have is dumb. The draw lengths aren't adjustable unless you buy and swap out cams... Just a lot of stupidity with that brand.
You'll also be disappointed with the tune they give the bow to you with. They use a bow square, set center shot and ship it... I see plenty of guys struggle to hit a pie plate at 20 yards with a Mathews bow they got "set up" from Reedy's - every year, at the archery range at my local club in the months before hunting season opens. Meanwhile, I'm drilling the 10 ring at 40 with fixed blade broadheads... The tune makes all the difference and you don;t get that from any "pro shop" that I've ever been to. So it's important to get a bow that you can tune yourself - especially if it doesn't require a press to do so. That ain't Mathews....
BowTech and Prime, just to name a couple, have vastly superior designs. Go some place where you can try them all. A shop that carries several brands is a good bet. I would insist upon:
Ability to adjust draw length without changing cams or needing a bow press
Ability to yoke tune or adjust for cam lean without a press
Ability to adjust for cam lean and yoke tune with no need to buy more parts from the manufacturer (like the Mathews stupid top hats)
Reedy's is okay as far as shops go. Nothing great. But they push one brand - Mathews - really really hard. I don't care for that brand much myself. They are one of the most difficult bows to tune there is. Especially if you don't have a bow press and a draw board. That top hat system they have is dumb. The draw lengths aren't adjustable unless you buy and swap out cams... Just a lot of stupidity with that brand.
You'll also be disappointed with the tune they give the bow to you with. They use a bow square, set center shot and ship it... I see plenty of guys struggle to hit a pie plate at 20 yards with a Mathews bow they got "set up" from Reedy's - every year, at the archery range at my local club in the months before hunting season opens. Meanwhile, I'm drilling the 10 ring at 40 with fixed blade broadheads... The tune makes all the difference and you don;t get that from any "pro shop" that I've ever been to. So it's important to get a bow that you can tune yourself - especially if it doesn't require a press to do so. That ain't Mathews....
BowTech and Prime, just to name a couple, have vastly superior designs. Go some place where you can try them all. A shop that carries several brands is a good bet. I would insist upon:
Ability to adjust draw length without changing cams or needing a bow press
Ability to yoke tune or adjust for cam lean without a press
Ability to adjust for cam lean and yoke tune with no need to buy more parts from the manufacturer (like the Mathews stupid top hats)
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