Critique my article: Handgun Purchasing Suggestions

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I wrote this article to help some of my newbie gun owners select their first handgun...would appreciate any feedback, comments or suggested changes. Thanks!

Note: This applies to Massachusetts residents (only) for purchasing a firearm in-state. Firearms laws vary widely from state-to-state; be sure to check your own state’s laws.

Before you can legally own a firearm in MA you'll need to obtain your license to carry.

"Which gun should I buy?" is probably the most common question new gun owners ask. Ask any gun owner this question and you'll get a myriad of suggestions. This entry is less about what specific recommendations (manufacturer/model) I have and more about what things you should keep in mind as you go shopping. It will also only discuss handguns (vs. shotguns or rifles) since a pistol should be your first weapon of choice for personal safety / home defense purposes.

Check your license

The license to carry that you were issued - along with any restrictions - dictate to a certain extent what you can and can not purchase, what you can carry, store, etc. If you were issued a Class A High Capacity license for example, you can purchase magazines that can hold > 10 rounds (see point #3 below).

Choose a caliber

Before you start looking at gun manufacturers or specific models you should decide on which caliber of handgun you want/need. Every handgun is chambered for a particular type of ammunition (and you can only shoot that size ammo with your gun). Stick with common calibers that the majority of guns are chambered for and that ammunition manufacturers have been producing for years (listed below in increasing size) including (but not limited to):

• 9mm
• .40S&W
• 45ACP

The tradeoffs are: the bigger the round, the better the stopping power but the more recoil will be felt. Also, the larger the ammo size the less will fit in a magazine. Which bring us to our next point:

Buy high capacity magazines (>10 rounds)

There are several advantages to using high capacity (hi-cap) magazines (mags) in your handgun, the least of which is that in a high-stress situation you will not nearly be as accurate with hitting your target than you are when you go target practice. Even though the Federal "assault weapons ban" expired in 2004, the Massachusetts' version never did (don't get me started). What this means is that if you have a Class A High Capacity license you can not possess handgun magazines with > 10 rounds unless they are "pre-ban" (manufactured prior to 9/13/94). How can you tell when magazines were made? This can be very difficult (if not impossible) but there are some mags have indications.

Another suggestion is to acquire the magazines first before acquiring the handgun as pre-ban hi-cap mags can be difficult to find. Speaking of purchasing your handgun, if you decide to go with pre-ban hi-cap mags this will limit the types and quantities of handguns you can purchase. Essentially this means having to purchase older models of guns vs. newer models of guns.
If you don't care about having more ammo in your mags then you will have more purchasing options and can purchase new guns.

Decide on your purchasing criteria

What's important to you in a gun? Reliability? Quality? Safety? Accuracy? Durability? Company history? A handgun is a weapon. Hopefully you'll never have to use it to defend yourself or your family but if you do you'll want it to do its job so consider the history, reputation and reliability of the model of handgun you'll be buying.

Consider how you'd use the gun in low-light/nighttime

If you're planning on using your pistol for self/home defense consider the real possibility that you'll have to defend your family in low/no light (e.g. at night). Many people decide to have some on-gun accessory to assist them in a) seeing the threat and b) aligning the handgun's sights on the threat including:

• Night sights
• Laser
• Light
• Handheld flashlight

All of these can be included after your handgun purchase but an on-gun light, for instance, is best attached with a handgun that has rails (later/newer models of pistols).

Stick with major manufacturers

While you may save some money purchasing a handgun from a lesser-known company taking into consideration your purchasing criteria (from above) you're better off buying your pistol from well-known manufacturers including:

• Beretta
• Glock
• HK
• Ruger
• Sig Sauer
• Smith & Wesson

Stick to full size guns

Most handguns come in several sizes inclusing full size/standard, compact and subcompact. Compact and subcompact sized guns will be more concealable if you decide to carry a weapon. Full sized guns are more reliable and some would say more accurate.

Ask other gun owners

Find out what handguns other firearms owners have and why they chose them. There are many variations to pistols: their size, grip, barrel length, slide, magazine release button, slide locking button, sights and trigger pull.

Try before you buy

A fun way of determining which handgun might be better for you is to contact a fellow firearms owner and ask to come along with him/her next time they go to the range. You will not only get a feel for how the weapon sits in your firing grip but what the sights, trigger pull and recoil feels like. Try shooting a 9mm, .40S&W and a 45ACP. You can sometimes even rent guns from a range.

Compute the total cost

Typically you purchase a firearm at a gun shop (FFL) or from a person (directly). If you purchase from another licensed gun owner and s/he wants to transfer his weapon via a FFL the gun shop usually charges a fee (~ $25 - $40) for this service. MA laws allow the private sale of a firearm four times per year (avoiding the FLL transfer fee). The seller checks your license to carry to ensure legality of what you're buying (e.g. hi-cap mags).

Chances are that you'll be purchasing more than just a handgun: trigger lock, extra magazines (typically come with used handguns), other accessories, ammo and a cleaning kit. Used (consignment) guns typically have a 15 - 20% markup. New guns are typically more expensive. Expect to pay ~ $500 - $1000 for your complete package. Here's a real-world example calculation if you were to buy a handgun from a gun shop:

Beretta 92FS 9mm (used) with 1 mag: $500
4 Beretta factory pre-ban hi-cap (15-round) mags: $100
4 boxes (50 rounds/box) 9mm ammo: $75
Cleaning kit: $15
Trigger lock: $10
MA state sales tax (6.25%): $45
Total cost: $745
 
In all honesty, the only part of that article I liked was the Try before you buy. Full size vs compact is going to come down to personal preference, and intended use. There is way too much talk about hi-cap mags, and how to get them, etc. This is just my oinion of course, but I don't see that being in any way helpful to a new gun owner, and might actually steer them down a path that isn't right for them.
 
I think you need to start with the reason or intended use. Clarity on this point is essential. The hunter needs a different gun than a target shooter or a plinker, and SD/HD is a whole different world.
 
Check your license

Since your type of license will dramatically limit your options, this step should come right after deciding on your criteria.

Choose a caliber

What, no mention of .38/.357? I would direct any new shooter to at least try one, since .38 is relatively affordable and wrist friendly, while .357 offers reasonable effectiveness in SD scenarios. Since just about any .357 revolver can shoot both, it's a good place to start. (Of course, I started with 10mm anyway, because I hate my money, and like to watch it explode.)

Buy high capacity magazines (>10 rounds)

I wouldn't worry about this at all. Check if preban hicaps are available, but don't worry too much about getting them until they've spent some time with the gun.

Decide on your purchasing criteria

Why isn't this first? It should be. Whether shopping for guns, cars, houses, or coffeemakers, this is the most important first step. Decide what it's for, and what features are important before you start shopping. Otherwise, the salesmen will help you decide, and your wallet will almost always be lighter as a result.

Consider how you'd use the gun in low-light/nighttime

This will not be an issue with any modern mass produced semi auto, or with most modern revolvers. Once the shooter is familiar with the gun, they'll find that there are a wealth of options available for adding "tacticalness" to it.
(It's not an issue with old guns either: there typically just aren't any options).

Stick with major manufacturers

Major manufacturers' guns are readily available, reasonably priced, and typically available in a wide variety of calibers. It's also fairly easy to find holsters, accessories, and gunsmiths who can do work on them. On the other hand, if the new shooter is looking for a range toy/collectible, finding an old or obscure gun that nobody else is likely to have is going to be half the fun for them.

Stick to full size guns

Full size guns are definitely more accurate and usually have better ergonomics and less felt recoil, making them easier to learn with. Not sure how they would be more reliable though, and they're much less comfortable to carry.

Ask other gun owners
Try before you buy
Compute the total cost

Good points.
 
I think you need to start with the reason or intended use. Clarity on this point is essential. The hunter needs a different gun than a target shooter or a plinker, and SD/HD is a whole different world.

The first question should always be "Why do I want another gun?". Before too long, the answer will be "Because!". This is normal.
 
I would omit the word weapon and replace with firearm. Most guns will never be used as weapons and many people buy guns for sporting purposes ans not defense.
 
Choose a caliber
Cover differences in cost of calibers serving simmilar needs (9mm vs. 40 or 45, for example), and that this is a bigger issue for the individual who will be buying factory ammo than for the reloader.
 
I would omit the word weapon and replace with firearm. Most guns will never be used as weapons and many people buy guns for sporting purposes ans not defense.

I should have mentioned that the intent/scope of the article is for self/home defense.
 
Cover differences in cost of calibers serving simmilar needs (9mm vs. 40 or 45, for example), and that this is a bigger issue for the individual who will be buying factory ammo than for the reloader.

Why would anyone buying their first gun (especially in MA) be a reloader?

It's worth mentioning reloading as a way to save on the cost of ammo down the road, but reloading is a related hobby. What your suggesting is like telling someone looking to got to track days that modifying their own car is cheaper than buying a sports car: it's true, but not very practical for someone just getting started.
 
You completely missed consideration of a revolver. How about a revolver vs. semi auto paragraph? Since many people recommend a .357 mag revolver for a first gun, I think it warrants a section in your article.
 
Why would anyone buying their first gun (especially in MA) be a reloader?
Unlikely, but persons who plan to get into reloading down the road may be less concerned about the 9/40/45 price differentials than someone who knows that they will never get into reloading.
 
When choosing a caliber, affordability should be a factor (if you can't afford to shoot the gun enough to get proficient, it's not going to be much use to you), and you might mention the fatigue factor of shooting a larger caliber.

There's no mention of .22LR. Many people still think it's a great first gun - others will recommend that you buy two 'first guns,' a full caliber and a .22 in a similar configuration (or a .22 conversion kit).

I think there's too much focus on high cap mags and the AWB - that could get confusing/overwhelming to a new shooter. Simply a "some new guns are only available with 10 round magazines in Massachusetts" should suffice.

You failed to mention the approved gun roster, and limited availability of certain major manufacturers (Colt, HK, GLOCK). Again, keep it simple, but mention the concept.

Personally, I don't recommend on-gun lights, ESPECIALLY for beginners. It causes massive violation of Rule #1.

How about a 'buying new vs. buying used' paragraph.

Added to the real world calculation should be a safe, or some other means of securing it at home (trigger lock doesn't count).

Also, included in the cost should be some training - every gun owner who intends to use their firearm for self defense should take some basic defensive handgun training (beyond the MA safety course).
 
Unlikely, but persons who plan to get into reloading down the road may be less concerned about the 9/40/45 price differentials than someone who knows that they will never get into reloading.

I don't disagree, I'm just pointing out that unless the person already plans to reload down the line, it's putting the card before the horse a bit.
 
How about a 'buying new vs. buying used' paragraph.

Brilliant. I can't believe I missed that.

Added to the real world calculation should be a safe, or some other means of securing it at home (trigger lock doesn't count).

That depends on why it needs securing. Trigger lock complies with MA law. If there are no kids in the house, and the gun is a carry gun (hence unlikely to be left home alone), that's all that's needed.
 
Why would anyone buying their first gun (especially in MA) be a reloader?

It's worth mentioning reloading as a way to save on the cost of ammo down the road, but reloading is a related hobby. What your suggesting is like telling someone looking to got to track days that modifying their own car is cheaper than buying a sports car: it's true, but not very practical for someone just getting started.

I think what he was trying to say was that the caliber cost should be discussed BECAUSE it is such a big issue with new shooters...much less so than with reloaders.
 
You completely missed consideration of a revolver. How about a revolver vs. semi auto paragraph? Since many people recommend a .357 mag revolver for a first gun, I think it warrants a section in your article.

Agreed. 'Revolver versus pistol' is often a major question for the new gun owner, along with caliber choice and size (concealability).

.38/357 should definitely be considered since it sets up one of the most versatile options available, which could be especially well suited to a first purchase decision.
 
That depends on why it needs securing. Trigger lock complies with MA law. If there are no kids in the house, and the gun is a carry gun (hence unlikely to be left home alone), that's all that's needed.

I disagree. I'm not talking about what's required by law, I'm talking about what's required by common sense. I don't need a law to tell me I should wear a seatbelt, motorcycle helmet, or that I should secure my firearms against unauthorized use. If an intruder breaks into my home when I'm not there and walks off with my TV, it's inconsequential. If he walks off with my firearm because I left it sitting out in the open with nothing to secure it but a shawdy lock, I'm responsible for another gun out on the streets. And that's detrimental for ALL law abiding gun owners. Plus a TV I report to my insurance company, whereas a gun I have to report to the BATF - not gun.

Thus when I'm instructing a new gun owner, I suggest in the strongest of terms that they take the steps necessary to properly secure their gun purchases.
 
I would agree that the pistol-revolver point is a must:
home defense
pistol con - malfunction potential pro -potentially more rounds :
revolver con - limited # of rounds pro - rarely malfunctions.

For home defense the real estate motto goes double == location, location, location (target, safe direction, aim)
 
If he walks off with my firearm because I left it sitting out in the open with nothing to secure it but a shawdy lock, I'm responsible for another gun out on the streets.

So you're going to blame yourself for what are clearly the actions of a criminal? [thinking]

-Mike
 
That depends on why it needs securing. Trigger lock complies with MA law. If there are no kids in the house, and the gun is a carry gun (hence unlikely to be left home alone), that's all that's needed.

A trigger lock on a carry gun is bad because it's likely to be loaded, and you (generally) don't want to put things in the trigger guard on a loaded gun, ever. A lockbox is better option to comply with the law.

-Mike
 
A trigger lock on a carry gun is bad because it's likely to be loaded, and you (generally) don't want to put things in the trigger guard on a loaded gun, ever. A lockbox is better option to comply with the law.

-Mike

Oh, I would never store a LOADED gun with a trigger lock. Sorry, should have made that clear.
 
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