challenge reloading military .223 brass

[TonyDedo]

From my research, I get the idea that there are some challenges with reloading military .223 brass.

I have a bucket full of .223 brass from the cases of Guatemalan surplus I bought.

I have a Dillon 650 currently setup to reload .45ACP.

Can someone be specific about exactly what I need to do to reload this stuff?

Thanks a lot, fellas!

-speaking of which, does anyone know where I can find some more of that Guat surplus?-

 

[RKG]

Assuming the right die set:

1) You need a good case lube system. I've used the RCBS inkpad system for decades with good results, but there are more modern varieties.

2) Be sure your cases were Boxer primed (telltale: look inside the case with a flashlight and see only one flash hole; if there are two, it is Berdan primed and not (in my opinion) reloadable).

3) It may take some extra effort to decap, but you should be able to do it without breaking the decapper. I like the RCBS universal decapper, as I decap and then tumble.

4) If the primers were crimped, you have to remove the crimp before a new primer can be seated. There are two general methods: swaging and reaming. I don't like reaming, as it tends to remove too much metal and is inconsistent. I use the RCBS primer pocket swaging tool and find it fast, effective and consistent. Others like the Dillon tool, which appears to be just as good. This operation only has to be done the first time the cases are reloaded.

5) Some military ammo was steel cased (versus brass). This is not reloadable.

6) Be sure your load is appropriate for military brass, which tends to be thicker and therefore of smaller volume than commercial brass of the same caliber. Depending on the power being used and how close you are to the line, it could make a difference.

Apart from the foregoing, reloading military brass is just like reloading commercial brass.

 

[coastie]

The biggest difference is that you will need to either swage or cut the primer pocket to remove the crimp. This only has to be done once. 5.56 is not generally thicker or heavier than its civilian counterpart. That rule typically only applies to the .308 and .30-06 brass. My method is tumble, size and deprime, trim, swage the pocket and then load.

 

[Gammon]

CH Tool and Die (they have a web site) makes an excellent primer pocket swaging die for about $22. Well worth the money.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Take note and check your brass.

All the Guatemalan surplus brass I've seen to date has smaller flash holes than most other .223 brass and may break your decapping pin if it is too large in diameter.

You may have to chuck up your pin in a drill and use some emery cloth or a file to reduce the diameter. You might think about reducing it's length just slightly also to reduce the risk of it bending.

Might be a good idea to have some spare pins on hand also as you are likely to break at least a couple.

If you are using Lee dies with their collet type decapping pin, (worst I've ever used) you will be quickly frustrated and will see the need for a Dillon sizing/decapping die.

You will also need to ream or swage the primer crimp. Swaging is better as it doesn't remove material from the pocket area of the case head and is usually more uniform.

 

[Gammon]

Take note and check your brass.

All the Guatemalan surplus brass I've seen to date has smaller flash holes than most other .223 brass and may break your decapping pin if it is too large in diameter.

You may have to chuck up your pin in a drill and use some emery cloth or a file to reduce the diameter. You might think about reducing it's length just slightly also to reduce the risk of it bending.

Might be a good idea to have some spare pins on hand also as you are likely to break at least a couple.

If you are using Lee dies with their collet type decapping pin, (worst I've ever used) you will be quickly frustrated and will see the need for a Dillon sizing/decapping die.

You will also need to ream or swage the primer crimp. Swaging is better as it doesn't remove material from the pocket area of the case head and is usually more uniform.

A good rule of thumb is to never buy anything from a country where you don't dare drink the water.

 

[Finalygotabeltfed]

Following that rule of thumb will leave you way behind the 8 ball when it comes to purchasing alot of good surplus ammo out there and you'll be like many are now that there is such a shortage and prices are going sky high.

Guatamalan .223 is good hot ammo. Even though there has been a few lots with slight corrosion on them, it all still fires just fine....and the price was good.

It just happens to have smaller flash holes thats all, and if you know beforehand it can be compensated for when reloading the brass.

 

[Dan S]

A good rule of thumb is to never buy anything from a country where you don't dare drink the water.

Or have to add fruit to the beer???

 

[TonyDedo]

Or have to add fruit to the beer???

Man Law!

 

[Gammon]

Or have to add fruit to the beer???

Amen.

 

[rscalzo]

I just processed some Guatemalan surplus brass. The flash holes in some are smaller and decapping will be tough. Not all the brass was that way. You can use a primer hoile uniformer chucked into a drill to correct. The primer crimp is minimal and priming the brass should not be difficult. I don't think you will even have to swage the pocket to reprime.

I'd avoid the case lube pad. That way will take you forever. I have a large cake pan that holes a few hundred cases spread out. I lightly coat them with Dillon lube (make sure you shake it first). You can resize and deprime quickly.

I also totally process the cases before I run them through my Dillon. You can speed through the process when properly setup. I'd suggest ball powder as it flows much easier through the measure. I use surplus WC844 myself for much of my reloading. Like everything else, the price has gone up but still cheap at $100 per 8lb. jug.