Browning Light Twelve Auto 5 question

[napoleon1815]

Hey all,

Came across a 1959 Browning Light 12 Auto 5 shotgun and it's a beauty. I usually only buy newer shotguns but something about this one really stuck out to me (note I have not bought this yet). Does anyone know if slugs are good to go on this or are there other considerations? Looking briefly online I can't tell if it might need a different barrel?

 

[Mike-Mike]

Hey all,

Came across a 1959 Browning Light 12 Auto 5 shotgun and it's a beauty. I usually only buy newer shotguns but something about this one really stuck out to me (note I have not bought this yet). Does anyone know if slugs are good to go on this or are there other considerations? Looking briefly online I can't tell if it might need a different barrel?

Great gun. It will run slugs the only limitation would be the choke. If it has that poly-choke thing on the end I would back it way off before running slugs.

 

[napoleon1815]

Thanks. Do you own one? Curious to learn more about it. Seems to be a solid shotgun and really well reviewed. It does not have the poly choke based on the images I found online.

 

[heron163]

you can adjust for the load you use by moving the bushing on the recoil spring (under hand guard). I used to shoot slugs through mine all the time when I was a kid...

 

[Mike-Mike]

Thanks. Do you own one? Curious to learn more about it. Seems to be a solid shotgun and really well reviewed. It does not have the poly choke based on the images I found online.

I don't have one. There is one in my family that I have had dibbs on for a while.

 

[napoleon1815]

Thanks all. I am new at the MRA and I can only shoot slugs, so curious if it was worth buying.

 

[Mike-Mike]

Thanks all. I am new at the MRA and I can only shoot slugs, so curious if it was worth buying.

You can also shoot skeet and trap at most clubs even if your not a member. So if you get the itch to run bird shot you can most likely find a place nearby.

 

[ackar]

No experience with slugs but no steel shot. Or Browning says you shouldn't anyway. You could put a newer Japanese barrel on for steel though. Great gun if the price is right do it.

 

[Babo]

These guns are not recommended for steel shot, which many clubs and waterfowl regs require. Regardless, I've been shooting steel out of my 28" Modified barrel years and have not seen any issues.


Look on the left rear of the barrel for the choke designation. The tighter the choke, the more prone to barrel bulge the gun is supposed to be.
* designates full choke (F).
*- designates improved modified choke (IM).
** designates modified choke (M).
**- designates improved cylinder choke (IC).
**$ designates skeet (SK).
*** designates cylinder bore (CYL).

Spend some time with the fanbois over on Shotgunworld to learn everything there is to know about the A5.
Shotgunworld.com ? View forum - Browning Shotguns

 

[napoleon1815]

No experience with slugs but no steel shot. Or Browning says you shouldn't anyway. You could put a newer Japanese barrel on for steel though. Great gun if the price is right do it.

It's 500...from an estate sale...guy took good care of it...not a mark on it and even has all the original paperwork.

 

[Babo]

IMHO, between the A5 and the Ithica M37, no finer shotguns have ever been made. Its really amazing how well these were designed, how tight the tolerances are, and how overbuilt they are. Of course, that all comes at the expense of weight, so if your day involves carrying for miles in the woods, you may want to rethink.

There are really only a could of things to look for:

1) Most forend stocks tend to split over time. You can either buy a replacement or fiberglass reinforce the split from the inside. Even if it is split, the gun should work just fine.

2) The butt stock is held on with a primary bolt. The bolt hole tends to elongate over time due to an overabundance of oil seeping into the stock, as well as the extra "pounding" the stock gets due to its recoil design. These can be replaced or the hole can be re-bedded.

3) Most A5s could probably use a recoil rebuild kit, as either the rings or springs are worn. These are cheap and readily available. Or you could just shoot it...

 

[napoleon1815]

Cool thanks Babo. I feel a lot better about buying it now! Will post some pics when I get it.

 

[SuspectFailure]

The only thing nicer than what you found for that price would be a " sweet sixteen"

 

[napoleon1815]

The only thing nicer than what you found for that price would be a " sweet sixteen"

Funny...they have one there too...didn't look at it as I am not into 16ga but it's there in the store.

 

[MisterHappy]

Some of the 16s are "short chambered" (2 9/16" shells). Caveat emptor.

If the 12 is in excellent shape (as you say it is) $500 is not bad. Do not lube the magazine tube; the friction parts need lack of oil to operate properly.

I have a couple; once you know their "quirks" they're excellent. The sound of the bolt slamming home, steel on steel is a good solid feeling....but don't let the bolt fly forward in the barrel is off- it can damage the bolt handle.

 

[WBCCI3371]

I have one in 12g and has two barrels. One is improved cylinder and the other is full choke. Mine is 1954 and is almost like new.

It has a different action than the others with a recoiling barrel. With the gun empty stand it on a rug butt down and push the barrel down and it will cock the gun. The barrel needs a little lube where it meets the action, but not too much.

Keep the knob on the threads at the end of the tube well-lubricated with black grease.

I have shot only lead through mine and I did try a few slugs in the improved cylinder barrel.

I paid $100.00 for mine in 1973 and it had 3 rounds missing from a box of 20. I have seen them recently on GunBroker in VG/Excellent condition for $800-$1,000.

I will give mine to my son & he'll sell it to buy another AR or something.

PM me if you want more info.

Rich

 

[napoleon1815]

Some of the 16s are "short chambered" (2 9/16" shells). Caveat emptor.

If the 12 is in excellent shape (as you say it is) $500 is not bad. Do not lube the magazine tube; the friction parts need lack of oil to operate properly.

I have a couple; once you know their "quirks" they're excellent. The sound of the bolt slamming home, steel on steel is a good solid feeling....but don't let the bolt fly forward in the barrel is off- it can damage the bolt handle.

Thanks. I was afraid no one would even know about this shotgun, so please any advice or anything forward along to me. Really excited about it. It's not often you hear something doesn't need oil to work optimally. Can't wait to get some pics up!

 

[MisterHappy]

I shoot ATA Trap, not because I'm good, but because my kid is, and it's "together time". I generally use my pre-WWII A5, because I can miss just as many birds with that, as with a "real" Trap gun.

A full day is 200+rounds. I set it for heavy loads (how to do this is in the paperwork, or online) and it does nto eject the fired hulls; the gun sucks up all the recoil.

Some people have a "problem" with the back of the receiver being a vertical wall, but I don't notice it.

These have a following, and lots of history (they were made for 99 years!). By modern standards, they're antiquated, but if you ever disassemble the guts, you'll see a lot of intricate machine work, from a time before CAD/CAM tech.

 

[WBCCI3371]

The machine work is exquisite; the likes that aren't often duplicated.

I forgot how to adjust for the loads; now I have to find my book! Nope; that is what Google is for.

Rich

 

[MisterHappy]

For heavy loads, the steel bevel washer is between the spring, and the brass friction piece. For light loads, the steel washer goes behind the spring, at the action end.

 

[napoleon1815]

Anyone know if the engraving on the receiver was done by hand in 1959? It's a beaut.

 

[smitty]

The venerable A5, God bless John Moses Browning.
I grew up in a family where my grandfather and dad only used Browning A5's.
In my family it was "the shotgun".
A few words, stay away from anything with a poly choke or cutts compensator on it they are crap. You want a Browning barrel that hasn't been dicked around with. An older Belgian model will be worth more and should have a fixed choke intrical to the factory barrel. They started transitioning to made in Japan in like 1975 / 1976. 1974 models were mostly made from left over Belgian parts. Several of the 1975 era shotguns were half Belgian half Japan. By about 1976 they are all made in Japan. However I would not nessisarily stay away from a made in Japan model because most of them had the Browning choke tube system installed in them and its a nice feature. Family heirloom / collectors peice, Belgian. Hunting shotgun Japan will do especially if the price is good.
My Browing shotguns:
- A5 Sweet 16 late 1946 construction (round knob).
- A5 1958 light 20 (round knob).
- NIB (unfired, unassembled, pristine condition in the box) 1970 A5 mag 12 from the year of my birth. No marks at all on the barrel as its never breen inserted into the receiver and thus has never fired (reciprocated back towards the action). I couldn't pass it up. Only gun I've ever bought with the idea that I might not ever shoot it.
- I also own a BPS upland 12.
- And a BPS Defense 12.
One day I'll pick up a BPS upland 20.

My next gun project will be a Browning A5 (made into a hunting shotgun). I'll need a Brownell's A5 magna tip screwdriver set ($19).
Pick up an older used A5 12 (regardless of wood condition just so long as the receiver & barrel are good). Remove the beat up stock / forearm. Then Cera Coat all the metal black and throw in a Midwest Gun Supply Browning spring kit ($69). Lastly throw on a pricey Browning Stalker stock & forearm set or a cheaper Butler Creek stock set if one can be tracked down. It will be big black and ugly with the plastic furniture but it will be a shooter, an A5 with all new guts.

smitty

 

[Peicemaker]

My next gun project will be a Browning A5 restoration ( for a hunting shotgun). I'll need a Brownell's A5 magna tip screwdriver set ($19).Pick up an older used A5 12 (regardless of wood condition just so long as the receiver & barrel are good). Remove the beat up stock / forearm. Then dura coat all the metal black and throw in a Midwest Gun Supply Browning spring kit ($69). Lastly throw on a pricey Browning Stalker stock & forearm set or a cheaper Butler Creek stock set if one can be tracked down. It will be big black and ugly with the plastic furniture but it will be a shooter, an A5 with all new guts.

I bolded all the blasphemous text in this declaration. No offense intended here, but...
First off this is not a restoration. A restoration would be carefully filing or stoning out any rust or pits then polishing all the metal up to about 600 grit and immersion bluing it. Then the wooden furniture would be carefully sanded down, repaired if necessary and a hand rubbed tung oil (or equivalent) finish would be applied until no pores could be seen through the finish. I'm all for replacing the internals, but dura coating and installing blackticool plastic furniture on a classic, collectible gun and calling it a restoration gets my blood boiling. Instead of doing this, let a trained gunsmith pick up the beat up A5, and you can go "restore" a rusted out old 870 or something.

Again, no offense intended. I spent a year and a half of my life and 30 grand learning what it actually means to restore firearms. But hey, I guess this kind of thing is why legitimate gunsmithing is a dying trade and why professionally trained guys like me and other gunsmith school graduates are relegated to working shit jobs to pay off their student loans.
end rant

 

[napoleon1815]

The venerable A5, God bless John Moses Browning.
I grew up in a family where my grandfather and dad only used Browning A5's.
In my family it was "the shotgun".
A few words, stay away from anything with a poly choke or cutts compensator on it they are crap. You want a Browning barrel that hasn't been dicked around with. An older Belgian model will be worth more and should have a fixed choke intrical to the factory barrel. They started transitioning to made in Japan in like 1975 / 1976. 1974 models were mostly made from left over Belgian parts. Several of the 1975 era shotguns were half Belgian half Japan. By about 1976 they are all made in Japan. However I would not nessisarily stay away from a made in Japan model because most of them had the Browning choke tube system installed in them and its a nice feature. Family heirloom / collectors peice, Belgian. Hunting shotgun Japan will do especially if the price is good.
My Browing shotguns:
- A5 Sweet 16 late 1946 construction (round knob).
- A5 1958 light 20 (round knob).
- NIB (unfired, unassembled, pristine condition in the box) 1970 A5 mag 12 from the year of my birth. No marks at all on the barrel as its never breen inserted into the receiver and thus has never fired (reciprocated back towards the action). I couldn't pass it up. Only gun I've ever bought with the idea that I might not ever shoot it.
- I also own a BPS upland 12.
- And a BPS Defense 12.
One day I'll pick up a BPS upland 20.

My next gun project will be a Browning A5 restoration ( for a hunting shotgun). I'll need a Brownell's A5 magna tip screwdriver set ($19).
Pick up an older used A5 12 (regardless of wood condition just so long as the receiver & barrel are good). Remove the beat up stock / forearm. Then dura coat all the metal black and throw in a Midwest Gun Supply Browning spring kit ($69). Lastly throw on a pricey Browning Stalker stock & forearm set or a cheaper Butler Creek stock set if one can be tracked down. It will be big black and ugly with the plastic furniture but it will be a shooter, an A5 with all new guts.

smitty

Thanks. This one is a 1959 and is all original (Belgian made). They also have a Sweet Sixteen but I didn't look at it. Can you even get ammo for that? Never seen any.

 

[Sprocket]

Napoleon - Things to look for in a used A-5
split foregrip - the wood is very thin where it meets the receiver - check it first thing

choke - it will let you know the limits of the gun as mentioned for slugs above.

chamber length - the 16 may have a short chamber depending on year of mfgr. Yes, 16a ammo is available - if possible, I'd be interested in the other gun PM if so

screws - are they all there and are they buggered?

The other things like rust dings, dents, chips, etc per usual.

specs on barrel length and pics would be appreciated.

Lastly - go to shotgun world dot com and seek the browning forum - great info there

yes I have one - Thanks Dad

Get it, you'll never need another shotgun.

 

[napoleon1815]

Napoleon - Things to look for in a used A-5
split foregrip - the wood is very thin where it meets the receiver - check it first thing

choke - it will let you know the limits of the gun as mentioned for slugs above.

chamber length - the 16 may have a short chamber depending on year of mfgr. Yes, 16a ammo is available - if possible, I'd be interested in the other gun PM if so

screws - are they all there and are they buggered?

The other things like rust dings, dents, chips, etc per usual.

specs on barrel length and pics would be appreciated.

Lastly - go to shotgun world dot com and seek the browning forum - great info there

yes I have one - Thanks Dad

Get it, you'll never need another shotgun.

Thanks. PM sent!

 

[smitty]

Peicemaker,
I removed the word restoration from my post for ya, as to not upset any professional gunsmiths.
My idea was to take a old used A5 that had seen better days that was just laying around a gun shop wasting away while modern gas guns get sold and used.
It was to breath new life into the shotgun and resurrect something unloved and nearly dead.
I've got older Brownings, but this was to be a practical take on an A5 stalker model which Browning produced some of themselves.
It was to be as I stated a shooter & hunting shotgun not a work of art.
If I want pretty I'll go open up the box and look at the all original NIB 1970 A5 mag 12 that I own.
I'd never buy rusted and pitted, blued worn yes.
I'd also never pay the kind of $,$$$ a professional gunsmith would want to redo a shotgun to original type condition especially on something with no personal sentimental value to it and neither is anybody else. The A5 is not a normal production shotgun anymore and the last ones were all Browning Custom Shop made with a cost of like $3,500. Honestly if I were going to buy a brand new autoloading shotgun I like most people would be well served looking at Beretta A300 for around $1,000 to $1,100.
This A5 redone would be a tool, purpose built for use in the field or in a duck blind and one doesn't need an expensive cold blued finish for that. I can do the Cera Coat, spring change / rebuild kit, and the furniture swap myself rather than having to have somebody else do it for me. I've printed the A5 maintenance manual book and looked deeply into the project.
Also I'm not at all mad at you (hope your not with me) just differing views and approaches here.
smitty

 

[Sprocket]

The Bell & Carlson stock is an outstanding replacement - if it had a round knob no the grip it would be perfect. The Ram Line was very cheep and felt it. Wood was cost prohibitive for me.

 

[smitty]

Sprocket "The Bell & Carlson stock is an outstanding replacement - if it had a round knob no the grip it would be perfect. The Ram Line was very cheep and felt it. Wood was cost prohibitive for me."

THANKS, I'll be looking for a Bell & Carlson stock set then.
smitty

 

[napoleon1815]

Found a pic on their website I can post now...and more tomorrow when I get it! Ignore the other close up photo...different shotgun.