hi i'm new.i want to get into reloading i picked up some brass at the local range.mostly 30 06 brass some of it has a slight bulge about a 1/4 inch from the base very small but there.is this alright to reload.and is there anything i sould be looking for in brass i intend on reloading thanks.
-
If you enjoy the forum please consider supporting it by signing up for a NES Membership The benefits pay for the membership many times over.
brass
- Thread starter selway
- Start date
selway said:
I would not use it.. if you get that "not right feeling" while looking in the brass while sorting, place it in a "reject" bucket.
In most cases there is over 10,000PSI force on these during a fire... is it worth having a side blow out and maybe mess up your chamber, or even have body damage... no way
If you're going to be picking up and reloading range brass, be sure to check and make sure the stuff is Boxer primed before you attempt to reload it. Pistol or straight walled cartridges are easy to check by taking a glance down the casing mouth. Necked cartridges you'll probably need to cut the casing in half to check... one flash hole is good to go. Two flash holes, no good.
Just take note of the headstamp if it's Boxer or Berdan primed then chuck/save any remaining brass with the same headstamp.
It's not a concern with American manufactured ammo. With foreign ammo it could be either Boxer or Berdan primed.
Just take note of the headstamp if it's Boxer or Berdan primed then chuck/save any remaining brass with the same headstamp.
It's not a concern with American manufactured ammo. With foreign ammo it could be either Boxer or Berdan primed.
Patriot
NES Member
If you want to read up on berdan vs boxer primers here are three articles
you might find interesting:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/berdanreloading/index.asp
TBP
you might find interesting:
http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting2005/berdanreloading/index.asp
TBP
Welcome to reloading, selway. You'll find it so enjoyable that you may end up not knowing if you reload so you can shoot more or shoot so you can reload more.
As others have indicated, you need to be very, very careful about using range brass for reloading rifle cartridges. The industry standard operating pressure for the 30-06 Springfield is 50,000 psi. A ruptured cartridge, especially a case head separation, can cost you your rifle and perhaps some treasured parts of your anatomy as well. I routinely pick up range brass for my .45 pistol, which operates at less than 20,000 psi and allows me to get a good look inside the brass as well, but I won't use any rifle brass I'm not absolutely sure has only been fired once, and usually not even then - it's just not worth it.
You can buy 100 pieces of nice, new name-brand unprimed 30-06 brass for 30 bucks or so and then you'll know exactly what you have. If you take care of them, not setting the shoulder back any more than you need to when you resize (or even better neck size if you can) they'll keep you in business for so long the initial investment will be forgotten. Don't forget to measure the overall length before every reloading and trim when necessary - keep track of how many times you trim and discard them after a half dozen or so trimmings.
As others have indicated, you need to be very, very careful about using range brass for reloading rifle cartridges. The industry standard operating pressure for the 30-06 Springfield is 50,000 psi. A ruptured cartridge, especially a case head separation, can cost you your rifle and perhaps some treasured parts of your anatomy as well. I routinely pick up range brass for my .45 pistol, which operates at less than 20,000 psi and allows me to get a good look inside the brass as well, but I won't use any rifle brass I'm not absolutely sure has only been fired once, and usually not even then - it's just not worth it.
You can buy 100 pieces of nice, new name-brand unprimed 30-06 brass for 30 bucks or so and then you'll know exactly what you have. If you take care of them, not setting the shoulder back any more than you need to when you resize (or even better neck size if you can) they'll keep you in business for so long the initial investment will be forgotten. Don't forget to measure the overall length before every reloading and trim when necessary - keep track of how many times you trim and discard them after a half dozen or so trimmings.
selway said:
That dent is from the brass deflector (AR-15).
I've reloaded cases like that without any problems, however, your milage might vary.
The Lake City ammo has crimped primers so you'll need to swag the primer pocket with something like a Dillion Super Swage...
http://dillonprecision.com/template/p.cfm?maj=15&min=0&dyn=1&
RCBS makes a swagging die that is used in a reloading press. I have no experiance with it, but from what I've read, it's not the best or easiest way to swag the pocket and it can't be used in a progressive press.
I have a dillon super swage and quite frankly wouldn't give it up for love nor money.Purchased it to swage .223 brass mounted it on a piece of 1X12 and just clamp it to my bench and we're off and running
