Bore Snake identification

[AngelKing]

I have one for my Sig - but a friend gave me two that he found laying around his house. He thinks one is for 9mm/380/.38 and that the other was for .45 ACP. now, not wanting to EFF up the bbls on my guns, I didn't want to go with what he thinks, because he was genuinely uncertain and that makes me nervous.

Is there any way to ID the snakes? one of them is tan with light green braids with a #30 (.30 cal??) stamped on the weight, whereas the other is a straight OD green with a # 35 stamped on the weight...

 

[Flyer007]

According to hoppes those numbers appear anywhere http://www.hoppes.com/charts/boresnakes.html

maybe measure the brush part and compare to the OD of a brass brush for the caliber in your normal kit?

 

[Fixxah]

When I first open the package I take a knife file and cut grooves in the brass as an indicator.
Then I just put the one for my AR in the field kit. The 45 will stay in the range bag etc.
How can a bore snake eff up a barrel? They are brass IIRC and barrel is pretty tough.steel.
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[Another_David]

"35" should be for .357/.38/9 mm. I have one and it's all green.

The "30" is probably for .30/.32

Short cords are for "pistol' boresnakes and longer would be for rifle

 

[AngelKing]

"35" should be for .357/.38/9 mm. I have one and it's all green.

The "30" is probably for .30/.32

Short cords are for "pistol' boresnakes and longer would be for rifle

thanks - the one marked 30 has a way longer cord, so that makes a lot of sense. When you use it, are you coating the snake with rem oil or something similar?

 

[chinalfr]

The brass should have some stamped identification.



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[Another_David]

thanks - the one marked 30 has a way longer cord, so that makes a lot of sense. When you use it, are you coating the snake with rem oil or something similar?

okay then looking at the link Flyer posted it's probably the ".308, 30-30, .30-06, .300, .303 caiber " rifle, which as far as I know you could use with a .30/.32 pistol too

There's no one way to do it but I spray hoppes in the barrel of my pistols and let it soak then run it through 3-4 times. Then I usually run a couple large patches with hoppes on them pushing them through with a long q-tip just to see if they come out clean. Then I run an oil patch same way to coat the barrel with oil (or CLP). Works fine for my 9 and 45 pistols.

 

[terraformer]

thanks - the one marked 30 has a way longer cord, so that makes a lot of sense. When you use it, are you coating the snake with rem oil or something similar?

It's longer because .30 caliber is a rifle caliber. The numbers stamped on the brass are the calibers. A 9mm is ~.357 caliber, etc. The .30 cal one is .308, 7.62, etc.

 

[Len-2A Training]

thanks - the one marked 30 has a way longer cord, so that makes a lot of sense. When you use it, are you coating the snake with rem oil or something similar?

I ONLY coat the brass bits with Hoppes #9! NO oil. I run an oiled patch down the barrel when I'm done with a conventional rod (although all the rods I use now are fiber or heavy plastic coated).

 

[Andreas]

Yeah, as others have said, they're marked on the brass weight.

 

[Radtekk]

Not to hijack the thread, but what kind of oil? I usually clean with long guns by spraying CLP direct into the breach, letting it run out the front of the barrel, patch a few times with Hoppe's until clean, run a dry patch through, then one with a few drops of Hoppe's to coat the barrel. Handguns get the same without the CLP "soaking"...

 

[aguwa]

try using gunzilla for a clp , never freezes up on fridgid days , take the bottle put it in your freezer stays sprayable no freeze if you hunt in the cold u want this stuff

 

[DarthRevan]

Froglube, man. Seriously, that shit is amazing and its biodegradable.

 

[saltydude]

There is no way you are going to screw up any barrel with the wrong bore snake despite being too oversize. At worst you get it jammed good & have to deal with extracting it.

Well, unless you get frustrated and use the caveman method.

 

[Billsail]

I use CLP.

 

[WhiteTiger]

I looked on a few that I have the one stamped 35 is for 380,9mm .38, 357. And the one stamped 45 is for 44/45.

 

[Terminator03]

I have always used more Boresnakes dry. I never add any CLP, or #9 because I figured it would just make the cloth break down, or become saturated with gunk and not be able to clean it after. If my guns are really dirty (which doesn't happen often because I generally clean and lube after each outing), I use brake cleaner on the bores to wash out the heavy gunk, then run a #9 coated patch before passing the Boresnake through for a final cleaning.

 

[grey]

wow, thread from 2011

 

[fubar]

Pretty sure Boresnake company says run them dry.

 

[Terminator03]

Pretty sure Boresnake company says run them dry.

I thought I had read that too, which is probably why I always have as stated above. They are a fantastic addition to your cleaning arsenal either way!

 

[RedSoxandAKs]

the 308 etc bore snake has 7.62 stamped on the brass

 

[Another_David]

Pretty sure Boresnake company says run them dry.

yes, the boresnake sales pitch claims you don't need solvent.

I get better results sparying CLP down the barrel, preferably when it's still warm, then running the snake

And you can get event better results with a rod, brushes, mops, etc.

it just depends on how much stuff you want to lug around and how much time you want to spend cleaning

 

[grey]

I look at it as a cotton patch saver. I soak the barrel in Hoppes, brush it, then dry snake it a few times instead of tearing through 1/2 dozen patches. I follow with a few clean patches of oil to get the last bit of residue and for protection